Another 60% Model M
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
I posted this on GH on 6.17 but forgot about my DT brothers. Hope you enjoy!
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Pre cutting:
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I forgot the SD card in my camera today, so I only had around 5 pictures that I could take, otherwise I would have taken more
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Post cutting:
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Testing:
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Case cutting:
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Here are some of the other projects I'm working on at the moment. They are GH threads btw, hope you don't mind
Beast Builds - A keyboard case
Beast Builds - A maple and purpleheart desk
Beast Builds - A walnut shelf
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Pre cutting:
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I forgot the SD card in my camera today, so I only had around 5 pictures that I could take, otherwise I would have taken more
-------------------------
Post cutting:
-------------------------
-------------------------
Testing:
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-------------------------
Case cutting:
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Here are some of the other projects I'm working on at the moment. They are GH threads btw, hope you don't mind
Beast Builds - A keyboard case
Beast Builds - A maple and purpleheart desk
Beast Builds - A walnut shelf
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
Here's what I did on 6.21
Cut the case today using the table saw
The width of the uncut side vs the cut side (1.1965" of stock, 1.1970 cut):
With the internals in it:
The case was pretty brittle and since it was unsupported as I crept up on the final width, I got some chip out. Wear safely glasses!
If you look my 3rd picture, you can see I missed one of the hammers (F2) so I undid all the bolts, added the hammer and re-bolt modded it. Well, it turns out that I put the black rubber membrane on backwards! So this M has been bolt modded 3 times now!
Cut the case today using the table saw
The width of the uncut side vs the cut side (1.1965" of stock, 1.1970 cut):
With the internals in it:
The case was pretty brittle and since it was unsupported as I crept up on the final width, I got some chip out. Wear safely glasses!
If you look my 3rd picture, you can see I missed one of the hammers (F2) so I undid all the bolts, added the hammer and re-bolt modded it. Well, it turns out that I put the black rubber membrane on backwards! So this M has been bolt modded 3 times now!
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Nice pictures of the chop. It's slimming season for Model Ms right now!
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/from ... t6013.html
I'd trim it to a TKL, myself, but still to get an M to begin with.
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/from ... t6013.html
I'd trim it to a TKL, myself, but still to get an M to begin with.
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
Same concept and procedure, you just cut the case a little bit bigger!Muirium wrote:Nice pictures of the chop. It's slimming season for Model Ms right now!
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/from ... t6013.html
I'd trim it to a TKL, myself, but still to get an M to begin with.
Good luck finding one and chopping it! Be sure to post some pictures
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
after some reasoning I believe it would be possible to remove the function row after all... a lot of sanding... but should work... I wish I had more time for these things
Last edited by matt3o on 24 Jun 2013, 15:46, edited 1 time in total.
- hasu
- Location: Japan
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: HHKB
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I like small footprint and DIY keyboard project, so I enjoy watching this kind of mods!
Yes, I'm sure 70% is good trade-off and 60% mod is not cost-effective.
If you go to 60% and cut F row you will need to cut membrane sheets, patch its matrix circuit and probably repalce controller in the end. And case moding is very very time consuming. You can see my result on this old thread on GH. I think I can do this better next time but I NEVER want to do this again
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=29483.0
http://imgur.com/a/JG0DU
wcass 60% BS project is very impressive and he uses very clean way to make 60% membrane matrix. very promising.
Yes, I'm sure 70% is good trade-off and 60% mod is not cost-effective.
If you go to 60% and cut F row you will need to cut membrane sheets, patch its matrix circuit and probably repalce controller in the end. And case moding is very very time consuming. You can see my result on this old thread on GH. I think I can do this better next time but I NEVER want to do this again
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=29483.0
http://imgur.com/a/JG0DU
wcass 60% BS project is very impressive and he uses very clean way to make 60% membrane matrix. very promising.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Whoah! Intense mod, Hasu. The day I can make something that form factor for myself, without completely losing my mind, shall be savoured.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
I already told you that, hasu. You are my own personal superhero.
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
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Case gluing:
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Case Sanding:
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Well, the case was dropped on my desk and the glue for the front of the top piece broke cleanly so I re glued them today and added another scrap piece of the case for reinforcement. I also sanded it to a matte finish. I think I'll still be painting it.
Looking a bit derpy. I'll have to re-crack the seem and retry again.
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Finally typing on it!:
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Ouch. Did you use superglue ("cyanoacrylate") ? Superglue is known to break if the glued parts are hit. I would instead use a solvent-based glue. Humbrol's "Poly Cement" in a yellow bottle is what I use the most for gluing small things, but you need a perfect fit. For large things I use "Uhu" plastic glue or even "PVC glue", which is much thicker, but smell more.
It might also be a good idea to reinforce on the inside with strips of plastic.
It might also be a good idea to reinforce on the inside with strips of plastic.
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
Findecanor wrote:Ouch. Did you use superglue ("cyanoacrylate") ? Superglue is known to break if the glued parts are hit. I would instead use a solvent-based glue. Humbrol's "Poly Cement" in a yellow bottle is what I use the most for gluing small things, but you need a perfect fit. For large things I use "Uhu" plastic glue or even "PVC glue", which is much thicker, but smell more.
It might also be a good idea to reinforce on the inside with strips of plastic.
Yea, the super glue joints are a bit brittle. I did add little strips of plastic going across the joint and that seems to be helping a lot but it's still pretty brittle. Do you think PVC glue would work since I think the case is made of PBT?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
I believe it's PVC, at least there's a writing saying "PVC" in the back of my model m
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
This reminds me of the keyboard mod urban legend of the guy who was cutting his case. It generated so much heat, that when he hit the other side with his electric saw, the keyboard case had perfectly "cured" itself by melting the parts together.
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
Hmm, I did try melting some of the shavings in acetone, but nothing happened. So that ruled out ABS and I think PBTmatt3o wrote:I believe it's PVC, at least there's a writing saying "PVC" in the back of my model m
Hmm, when I cut them, it didn't generate any heat. But then again, I was using a table saw. He might have used something differentwebwit wrote:This reminds me of the keyboard mod urban legend of the guy who was cutting his case. It generated so much heat, that when he hit the other side with his electric saw, the keyboard case had perfectly "cured" itself by melting the parts together.
Also, since there are no arrow keys and no 1x between the Ralt and Rcontrol, I can't do a poker style of arrow keys. So I found this really cool AHK script
Code: Select all
;; Auto-Reload If Changes Are Made
{
SetTimer,UPDATEDSCRIPT,1000
UPDATEDSCRIPT:
FileGetAttrib,attribs,%A_ScriptFullPath%
IfInString,attribs,A
{
FileSetAttrib,-A,%A_ScriptFullPath%
SplashTextOn,,,Updated script,
Sleep,500
Reload
}
Return
}
Capslock::
Gui, 99:+ToolWindow
Gui, 99:Show, x-1 y-1 +NoActivate, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys
Keywait, Capslock
If A_ThisHotkey != Capslock
Gui, 99:Destroy
else Gui, 99:Show, x-1 y-1 +NoActivate, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys +CapsToCancel
return
#IfWinExist, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys +CapsToCancel
Capslock::return
CapsLock Up::Gui, 99:Destroy
#IfWinExist, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys
w::Up
a::Left
s::Down
d::Right
\::delete
#IfWinExist
If you press and release the caps lock, it locks in the arrow keys. If you hold the caps lock and press the arrow keys, you get arrow keys, but as soon as you release the caps lock, it reverts back to letters. Also, shift + caps enters standard caps lock