Any modern keyboards with function keys on left?
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- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: hmm.
- Favorite switch: buckling spring or alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I got ahold of a Model F AT last week, and with Soarer's mod, I'm really liking having the function keys at left. I never really use function keys when they are up on top, but I find myself using the ones on the left.
However... my floss mod failed miserably, so there is zero chance I could bring a Model F into work. Does anyone know of a half-decent modern keyboard that doesn't suck, and has F keys on left? And actually, I don't care about modern, I rather would prefer being able to use a soarer mod, so I could set the keys exactly the way I want them, without having to use a key re-mapper (which makes it weird for every other keyboard you might ever try to use).
?
However... my floss mod failed miserably, so there is zero chance I could bring a Model F into work. Does anyone know of a half-decent modern keyboard that doesn't suck, and has F keys on left? And actually, I don't care about modern, I rather would prefer being able to use a soarer mod, so I could set the keys exactly the way I want them, without having to use a key re-mapper (which makes it weird for every other keyboard you might ever try to use).
?
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
G80-2100, G80-2550, G80-2551, or Commodore PC-5 or PC-10 keyboards from Cherry all work with PS/2!
G80-2550, the others are similar.
PC-5 or PC-10 keyboards
G80-2550, the others are similar.
PC-5 or PC-10 keyboards
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Some Commodore keyboards talk only the XT protocol, unfortunately, although the one pictured talks AT.7bit wrote:G80-2100, G80-2550, G80-2551, or Commodore PC-5 or PC-10 keyboards from Cherry all work with PS/2!
One thing to note if you are using a European layout is that they don't have any right Alt (Alt Gr) key.
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- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: hmm.
- Favorite switch: buckling spring or alps
- DT Pro Member: -
It would be fun to have another commodore keyboard. I have a 128D keyboard with a converter, but aside from nostalgia, it's a terrible keyboard. A cherry one would be better.
The G80s look great too! BANG! POWER!
Unfortunately, didn't see any recent ebay sales of either the G80s mentioned above, or the C= PC5 or PC10. The C= ones look to be short one modifier key, so some stretching would be involved to get CMD-OPTION-CONTROL sequences going, but that's not really killer.
That northgate omni is a wacky keyboard.
By the way, I found this ATARI PC keyboard when looking for the commodore one on ebay. I didn't know Atari made PC clones, but I guess everyone did back then. Anybody know what kind of switches they used?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATARI-PC3-8088- ... 53fc5284d7
The G80s look great too! BANG! POWER!
Unfortunately, didn't see any recent ebay sales of either the G80s mentioned above, or the C= PC5 or PC10. The C= ones look to be short one modifier key, so some stretching would be involved to get CMD-OPTION-CONTROL sequences going, but that's not really killer.
That northgate omni is a wacky keyboard.
By the way, I found this ATARI PC keyboard when looking for the commodore one on ebay. I didn't know Atari made PC clones, but I guess everyone did back then. Anybody know what kind of switches they used?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATARI-PC3-8088- ... 53fc5284d7
- Peter
- Location: Denmark
- Main keyboard: Steelseries 6Gv2/G80-1501HAD
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Cherry Linear and Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
http://electrone.com/content.php?ref=page_soln2b
(I've been trying to find a better photo, no luck so far ..
This is probably the most 'old-school' modern keyboard available,
it even has metal-casing !)
You can have the F-keys pretty much where you God-damn please !
AND .. It's a MODERN keyboard, like you requested
('Soarer' is kinda 'built-in' )
@ warty :
Post a photo with a cap removed and I'm positive someone here can tell you,
no matter how obscure the switches may be
But just like Amiga/Commodore, Atari wasn't to picky and also frequently changed supplier, so it could be
a mediocre/horrible membrane-board OR it could be the de-luxe version with vintage mech-switches..
(I've been trying to find a better photo, no luck so far ..
This is probably the most 'old-school' modern keyboard available,
it even has metal-casing !)
You can have the F-keys pretty much where you God-damn please !
AND .. It's a MODERN keyboard, like you requested
('Soarer' is kinda 'built-in' )
@ warty :
Post a photo with a cap removed and I'm positive someone here can tell you,
no matter how obscure the switches may be
But just like Amiga/Commodore, Atari wasn't to picky and also frequently changed supplier, so it could be
a mediocre/horrible membrane-board OR it could be the de-luxe version with vintage mech-switches..
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I found exactly the same effect on my XT.warty wrote:I got ahold of a Model F AT last week, and with Soarer's mod, I'm really liking having the function keys at left. I never really use function keys when they are up on top, but I find myself using the ones on the left.
Which I have remapped like this:
Mac mods aplenty.
I just got a regular layout Model M for the first time today, and those function keys across the top never felt as far away. The left is definitely the best place for them. Much easier to find in a hurry, and it balances up the asymmetry a bit against the numpad block.
Or, as 7bit suggested, you can have both:
The battleship / terminal keyboards that have function keys in both blocks are a design that IBM used too (whether they or Cherry invented it I do not know), in both Model F and Model M variants as I understand. I have one of the Ms myself, in need of a fresh set of springs.
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- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: hmm.
- Favorite switch: buckling spring or alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I'd like one of those big cherries, but looks like I'll have to hunt for a while to find one.
I don't suppose you used omnigraffle or something for that nice XT layout diagram? I'd like to make one like that for my soarer config for the AT. It would be great to not re-invent the wheel.
I don't suppose you used omnigraffle or something for that nice XT layout diagram? I'd like to make one like that for my soarer config for the AT. It would be great to not re-invent the wheel.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
OmniGraffle indeed! Here's the file for you and anyone interested:
The battleship keyboards have a lot of character, I'll give them that. Not exactly the minimalism that I generally like, but loud and proud. The Cherry ones can be quite dapper with a well chosen set of replacement caps.
I threw in a few other layouts too. Should be easy enough to turn to your own purposes!The battleship keyboards have a lot of character, I'll give them that. Not exactly the minimalism that I generally like, but loud and proud. The Cherry ones can be quite dapper with a well chosen set of replacement caps.
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- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: hmm.
- Favorite switch: buckling spring or alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks, that's perfect. I'll upload the AT version here when I'm done.
I would take a model M to work if I could, but my floss mod testing failed badly on both the AT and the Model M. I should hunt down some Ultra floss before I give up entirely I guess, but the Super floss didn't do anything. So, maybe the cherry keyboard would be quieter.
I would take a model M to work if I could, but my floss mod testing failed badly on both the AT and the Model M. I should hunt down some Ultra floss before I give up entirely I guess, but the Super floss didn't do anything. So, maybe the cherry keyboard would be quieter.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
The Layout is from IBM!Muirium wrote:...
Or, as 7bit suggested, you can have both:
The battleship / terminal keyboards that have function keys in both blocks are a design that IBM used too (whether they or Cherry invented it I do not know), in both Model F and Model M variants as I understand. I have one of the Ms myself, in need of a fresh set of springs.
Picture is from me!
Keyboard has been sold!
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
IBM did it first: makes sense. There's XT and AT clones out there too.
Thanks for the picture! I just went to the wiki to illustrate my point.
Comiserstions on one less battleship in the fleet. Hope it went to a good new navy.
Thanks for the picture! I just went to the wiki to illustrate my point.
Comiserstions on one less battleship in the fleet. Hope it went to a good new navy.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I don't think the kind of floss matters much. It's the length that makes most difference. The bits shouldn't be too long.warty wrote:Thanks, that's perfect. I'll upload the AT version here when I'm done.
I would take a model M to work if I could, but my floss mod testing failed badly on both the AT and the Model M. I should hunt down some Ultra floss before I give up entirely I guess, but the Super floss didn't do anything. So, maybe the cherry keyboard would be quieter.
But for what it's worth, if you want the know the original floss, the inventor of this mod once sent me this:
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
The floss mod is not completely effective. It can remove the ringing in the spring, but it is not possible to remove the click sound without affecting the operation of the switch.
By the way, the click is emitted from the spring itself when it buckles.
By the way, the click is emitted from the spring itself when it buckles.
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- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: hmm.
- Favorite switch: buckling spring or alps
- DT Pro Member: -
webwit: I'll try again. I know I kept making it longer and longer until finally the switch just wouldn't activate. But none of the lengths seemed to do ANYTHING for the sound.
Findecanor:
I don't need it to be silent, but if it could be about the sound of a Apple extended keyboard, that would be acceptable for work. maybe even a little louder than that.
Findecanor:
I don't need it to be silent, but if it could be about the sound of a Apple extended keyboard, that would be acceptable for work. maybe even a little louder than that.
- Compgeke
- Location: Fairfield, California, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M 1391401
- Main mouse: Coolermaster Recon
- Favorite switch: IBM Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0040
I found that the floss mod doesn't do much up close, but from a distance it does have a difference, especially in an echo-y room.