SSK PACKAGE DEAL 11 FOR 1850 USD SHIPPED!
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
It's them GH guys. They would give quadruple for a keycap!
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Wait for the last laugh till I resell this for quadruple!
Ok I know. I'll keep it in a box.
Ok I know. I'll keep it in a box.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I might get bored with keyboards. Then I'll sell my Industrial Space Savers, the Space Cadet, and the golden clickclack. Oh, and the most precious of all, the Duck clickclacks. After which I'll buy my own island.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
What kind of evil lair doesn't have a clack?
When I get round to making my movie, the criminal mastermind will have an Industrial SSK.
When I get round to making my movie, the criminal mastermind will have an Industrial SSK.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Mostly! There are four two-piece caps, randomly around the keyboard, where someone's put on replacements at some point. All the caps are in fine shape besides the 5 key, which is a little rough around the edge. All the SSK specific caps (the integrated numberpad centred around the I key) are single-piece.GeorgeK wrote:Also I presume yours has one piece caps?
The keyboard's in fair nick overall. Three loose rivets, but nothing I can actually feel in use. And one of the lower case's retainer clips for the barrel plate is snapped. Again, not a problem when assembled. A good blue label SSK then, and it's all mine! Thanks Tinnie.
- GeorgeK
- Location: Kent, United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Filco Ninja TKL w/Browns
- Main mouse: CM Storm Inferno
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Browns
- DT Pro Member: -
Awesome - thanks for the detailed info! I'll post a report on mine when it arrives - most likely on Tuesday but maybe later...Muirium wrote:Mostly! There are four two-piece caps, randomly around the keyboard, where someone's put on replacements at some point. All the caps are in fine shape besides the 5 key, which is a little rough around the edge. All the SSK specific caps (the integrated numberpad centred around the I key) are single-piece.GeorgeK wrote:Also I presume yours has one piece caps?
The keyboard's in fair nick overall. Three loose rivets, but nothing I can actually feel in use. And one of the lower case's retainer clips for the barrel plate is snapped. Again, not a problem when assembled. A good blue label SSK then, and it's all mine! Thanks Tinnie.
- Josh
- Location: CHN
- Main keyboard: G81-3077 SAU, G80-1865 wNv, FMJ
- Main mouse: G9x
- Favorite switch: vintage black
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
pm'd
- GeorgeK
- Location: Kent, United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Filco Ninja TKL w/Browns
- Main mouse: CM Storm Inferno
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Browns
- DT Pro Member: -
Received mine today and all is not well... The following keys DO NOT WORK
Also the right Ctrl and right Alt stick down and need manually prising back up again...
Less than happy...
Edit: Also I don't have the tools to open it or fix it - needless to say Tinlong PM'd
Also the right Ctrl and right Alt stick down and need manually prising back up again...
Less than happy...
Edit: Also I don't have the tools to open it or fix it - needless to say Tinlong PM'd
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Good man, Tinnie!
Fortunately, all of that's fixable with a bolt mod. I recently did one on a terminal Model M, I'll post the pictures with a guide. Because although there's good ones out there, I learned some more through my own mistakes (all fixed) and the wiki needs it.
Fortunately, all of that's fixable with a bolt mod. I recently did one on a terminal Model M, I'll post the pictures with a guide. Because although there's good ones out there, I learned some more through my own mistakes (all fixed) and the wiki needs it.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
This is going to be F interesting…
F dirty is probably okay. We all strip our keyboards down to clean them on arrival, right? F heavy is the complex part. But it ain't an F unless it's heavy metal!
F dirty is probably okay. We all strip our keyboards down to clean them on arrival, right? F heavy is the complex part. But it ain't an F unless it's heavy metal!
-
- Location: Belgium, land of Liberty Wafles and Freedom Fries
- Main keyboard: G80-3K with Clears
- Favorite switch: Capacitative BS
- DT Pro Member: 0049
Seems your source didn't have time to wrap all the keyboards loosely in plastic, nor do I see any stuffing to prevent broken cases.
I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...
I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Old keyboards are treated like that all too often. Fortunately, these are all Model Fs. A lot of snapped plastic horror can happen when you put Ms among these guys.
Fs aren't immune to damage of course, but they're tougher than Ms which just crack apart when jostled around the wrong way without protection.
Fs aren't immune to damage of course, but they're tougher than Ms which just crack apart when jostled around the wrong way without protection.
-
- Location: Duisburg, DE
- Main keyboard: G84-4400
- Favorite switch: Cherry ML
- DT Pro Member: 0218
Seriously, wrap the keyboard in plastic won't help anything as they are made from metal!JBert wrote:Seems your source didn't have time to wrap all the keyboards loosely in plastic, nor do I see any stuffing to prevent broken cases.
I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...
Hence, they're 2,7 kg each.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Bubblewrap is your keyboard's best friend.
You'll upgrade the packing for the next leg, right Tinnie? These guys are strong, but they're also heavy enough to cause each other a lot of damage in transit.
You'll upgrade the packing for the next leg, right Tinnie? These guys are strong, but they're also heavy enough to cause each other a lot of damage in transit.
-
- Location: Duisburg, DE
- Main keyboard: G84-4400
- Favorite switch: Cherry ML
- DT Pro Member: 0218
Yes, I will. But it might be hard to keep the shipping cost "low".Muirium wrote:Bubblewrap is your keyboard's best friend.
You'll upgrade the packing for the next leg, right Tinnie? These guys are strong, but they're also heavy enough to cause each other a lot of damage in transit.
-
- Location: Amsterdam
- Main keyboard: variable: beamspring, Northgate, IBM SSK, Topre
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: beamspring, dampened complicated white Alps, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey Muirium,
it would be great if you could post your bolt-modding guide: I've been looking into it and I found quite some information, but another good guide would be great to have. And yes, the DT wiki should have one !
J.
it would be great if you could post your bolt-modding guide: I've been looking into it and I found quite some information, but another good guide would be great to have. And yes, the DT wiki should have one !
J.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
So… many… pictures. I'll try to find the ones that don't suck, and write the guide around them. In the meantime: grab yourself a hand drill with a 1/16" inch bit (I've heard electric works too, but go real slow) and 50 or more M2 screws and washers. Oh, and a "nut sprinner" set. The case has 5.5mm hex bolts recessed underneath that you need to take out to start.
Fun fun fun! It's a great way to get everything thoroughly cleaned, though. My 1990 122 key looks newer now than most of my 21st century stuff.
Fun fun fun! It's a great way to get everything thoroughly cleaned, though. My 1990 122 key looks newer now than most of my 21st century stuff.
- GeorgeK
- Location: Kent, United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Filco Ninja TKL w/Browns
- Main mouse: CM Storm Inferno
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Browns
- DT Pro Member: -
nourathar wrote:Hey Muirium,
it would be great if you could post your bolt-modding guide: I've been looking into it and I found quite some information, but another good guide would be great to have. And yes, the DT wiki should have one !
J.
If you google IBM Bolt Mod there are some excellent guides - namely:Muirium wrote:So… many… pictures. I'll try to find the ones that don't suck, and write the guide around them. In the meantime: grab yourself a hand drill with a 1/16" inch bit (I've heard electric works too, but go real slow) and 50 or more M2 screws and washers. Oh, and a "nut sprinner" set. The case has 5.5mm hex bolts recessed underneath that you need to take out to start.
Fun fun fun! It's a great way to get everything thoroughly cleaned, though. My 1990 122 key looks newer now than most of my 21st century stuff.
http://imgur.com/a/QroSL - Ripsters Guide
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showt ... ?t=1024488 - one from OCAU
http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?titl ... d_Bolt_Mod - the one on the GH wiki
There's another that I can't find right now which was billed as the 'not another bolt mod guide but the mistakes not to make guide'
At the moment I can't get enough guides though - I'm definitely a "read all the information three times before trying anything" kind of chap so I'd be interested to see your guide Murium
-
- Location: Belgium, land of Liberty Wafles and Freedom Fries
- Main keyboard: G80-3K with Clears
- Favorite switch: Capacitative BS
- DT Pro Member: 0049
The plastic is needed so you don't lose any keys, I have had a few pop off during transport.tinnie wrote:Seriously, wrap the keyboard in plastic won't help anything as they are made from metal!JBert wrote:Seems your source didn't have time to wrap all the keyboards loosely in plastic, nor do I see any stuffing to prevent broken cases.
I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...
Hence, they're 2,7 kg each.
Is the exterior made from metal? I would guess it's more of that heavy opaque plastic used in the model F AT, meaning it is tough but brittle. Even the model F XT whose internals are built like a tank comes with such a top cover, and this cover is prone to cracking.
Then again, I'm sure you'll inspect them, and they might not have suffered much.