Home made Keypad PCB!
- skrsh3r
- Location: Serbia
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: imo 1.1
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I know I shouldn't ask here but i have to, how much roughly would a tkl plate cost to laser cut mateo?Let's say from 1mm stainless steel, i had to ask you before i start checking workshops in my country.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
depends on material. just 1 shot is a bit expensive. if you join a GB the price can go pretty low.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
I bookmarked this thread, for future projects; since i'm also more the Illustrator than CAD guy.
Thanks for sharing your project!
Thanks for sharing your project!
- ne0phyte
- Toast.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Topre 45g, MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0003
The Cherry switches are designed for a 1.5mm mount plate - they won't snap in otherwise. See here in the Cherry specs.skrsh3r wrote:I know I shouldn't ask here but i have to, how much roughly would a tkl plate cost to laser cut mateo?Let's say from 1mm stainless steel, i had to ask you before i start checking workshops in my country.
If the switches are supported by a PCB it might work but I'm sure sticking to 1.5mm is better.
EDIT: Well, actually they would "snap in" but there'd be 0.5mm between the little nubs and the back of the mountplate.
- skrsh3r
- Location: Serbia
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: imo 1.1
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah i was asking about alps, and mateo i just wanted to know rough pricing since i'm not sure about my funds atm as you know or may not know my country has been hit by massive floods and my whole garage was under water resulting insane amount of damage to my tools and i now need to buy everything :S
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I think the easiest and cheapest way to go about this mixed switch project is to 3d print the layered plate.
Here is a mock up of it that I made in Tinkercad:
https://tinkercad.com/things/gqTlDt2DEsK
Here is a mock up of it that I made in Tinkercad:
https://tinkercad.com/things/gqTlDt2DEsK
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh, and in case I hadn't mentioned before, any of the resources I post here are completely available to you guys to use in any way you want.
If you want the original .ai files or .svgs, let me know.
If you want the original .ai files or .svgs, let me know.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
I'm interested in the *.ai files, if you don't mind!
[EDIT] Not that i'm too lazy to draw it for myself...
[EDIT] Not that i'm too lazy to draw it for myself...
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Since I am 3d printing the plate, I figured I would play with the design a bit.
Here are three possibilities I have been playing with.
https://tinkercad.com/things/kzKZVpFFrR0
On the left is the original design, as if I had laser cut the layers. The plate is totally flat and uniform.
In the middle is almost the same thing, except I got rid of superfluous layers from the MX/Alps switches. This leaves a raised section for the m9 switches.
On the right is the same as the middle, except the raised section is angled 10 degrees. The m9 switches are angled 5 degrees(so that when you put them on an angled plate in a keyboard, you end up with stepped rows). This will leave the keycaps on those switches angled 15 degrees towards your fingers on the keypad.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Here are three possibilities I have been playing with.
https://tinkercad.com/things/kzKZVpFFrR0
On the left is the original design, as if I had laser cut the layers. The plate is totally flat and uniform.
In the middle is almost the same thing, except I got rid of superfluous layers from the MX/Alps switches. This leaves a raised section for the m9 switches.
On the right is the same as the middle, except the raised section is angled 10 degrees. The m9 switches are angled 5 degrees(so that when you put them on an angled plate in a keyboard, you end up with stepped rows). This will leave the keycaps on those switches angled 15 degrees towards your fingers on the keypad.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
While I like the 3rd design with the angle for the top 2 switches, I do have to wonder how that would feel to type on. Even with the slight angle, Those 2 switches are basically a step higher in the case. It might be a little weird having 2 switches on a higher plane then everything else.
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I was thinking about finding a way to bind them to left and right click (either in the firmware or using AHK), so it is alright with me if they are weirdy weirdy, since they are going to have a different function than the others anyway.
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I think this will be the final layout, unless you guys have suggestions.
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/# ... 7dbc73d917
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/# ... 7dbc73d917
- Dubsgalore
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: ESA-3000-HASRO
- Main mouse: Deathadder 2013
- Favorite switch: MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Awesome Idea! Maybe a GB?... this would be a near perfect tester
- rklm
- Main keyboard: Minimal Animal 75
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Molten Core Edition
- Favorite switch: 65g MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Found the m8 datasheet, here is the finished PCB.
I can't find any errors, but I could be missing something.
The black lines are traces (they will be scaled up to .5 mm width)
The red lines are diodes
The green lines are jumpers
The blue border is the edge of the pcb
(Red and green lines will be erased before I print it out)
(The plate image on the right is an svg export of my 3d file, I will be adding the m8 mounts in a sec)
I can't find any errors, but I could be missing something.
The black lines are traces (they will be scaled up to .5 mm width)
The red lines are diodes
The green lines are jumpers
The blue border is the edge of the pcb
(Red and green lines will be erased before I print it out)
(The plate image on the right is an svg export of my 3d file, I will be adding the m8 mounts in a sec)