3D print help needed - Mouse Button Mod WMO 1.1

[CeeSA]

I need some sort of extended (?keep webs?) Cherry ML "keycap" as mouse button.

Pics are would me help to explain:

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The hole is not as big as the switch. I would like to keep it that way .
But then the ?keep webs? of the keycap are a little short to fit...

Would anybody help to design a Cherry ML mouse button cap for me?
I have to measure how much longer the extension should be. At minimum it must be the thickness of the shell from the WMO (I think). I would like to use it for other mods too.
Another point is, how much it would cost?

[Muirium]

Linear side buttons on a mouse: interesting idea. I don't know what ?keep webs? is about. But you're after something contoured like the mouse's case, or flat like a shrunk traditional keyboard cap?

[Daniel Beardsmore]

ML is tactile ;-)

[Icarium]

I wonder how this turns out considering that many people complain about the mouse keys having too much travel on the TEX Yoda.

[CeeSA]

For sidebuttons ML switches are ok for me. Shure not an alternative for MB1 + MB2.

[CeeSA]

Linear side buttons on a mouse: interesting idea. I don't know what ?keep webs? is about. But you're after something contoured like the mouse's case, or flat like a shrunk traditional keyboard cap?

With "keep web" I mean the 2 pins from the keycap that connect the keycap to the switch.
They are a little to short to get grip.

[suka]

I still have the models from my earlier keyboards around if you want to take a look. Both a press-fitting ML "frame" and custom caps worked fine with these switches when printed. You're probably looking at around 1€ for only two caps.

[guilleguillaume]

Which cable did you use to replace de default one?

[CeeSA]

I removed the all sheathing from the original cable.

After that, I took the 8 single cables (5 from the original, 3 for the 2 extra buttons) and sleeved it with paracord.

[guilleguillaume]

I removed the all sheathing from the original cable.

After that, I took the 8 single cables (5 from the original, 3 for the 2 extra buttons) and sleeved it with paracord.

Thank you! Something similar was on my mind for a while. I should try it.

[suka]

You've got snailmail incoming
The caps fit pretty tight, but there should be a suitable extension height in the pack

[CeeSA]

here with the mouse:

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You could see that the switches are not "eye directed".
But I'll do it better next time.

The caps feel great because of the grip and the rounded edges.
Very comfortable.

Thank you very match suka!

[guilleguillaume]

I just saw the pictures on OCN too and I think it's a good mod but I guess it will be more comfortable if the buttons were more close to the shell.

Love that mod you did to your IMO 1.1 with 2 lateral buttons.

[CeeSA]

True, looks a bit odd. But the distance is inevitable. Until now I have no other solution for using a keyboard switch.

There is still an option to make a hole for the whole switch. But the final outcome would be not better thing in the distance.

It is comfortable to put the thumb under the side buttons and helps to have a good grip.
From here it is easier to press the buttons than it seems to be.

[Uncleleech]

Ha, it surprises me that these feel good. Still better than mash potatoes!

These are pretty cool though great job!

[cookie]

Hey mate, I am just curios how you've put thumb buttons in this mouse? Can you show uns the internals or explain where you've connected the buttons?

Thanks!

[CeeSA]

The buttons are fixed with hot glue (2nd pic).

To use the buttons as mouse button 4 and 5 I use 3 extra cables inside the sleeved cable.
The 3 extra cables are attached to a 2nd mouse pcb w// mb 4/5.
This pcb is from a RAT5 where the sensor stop working. But you could use every mouse that support mb4/5.

If you want more programable buttons look for a mouse w/ 4way mouse wheel. Left and right mw buttons could be program w/ X-Mouse Button Control.

[cookie]

Uhh okay, I thought the stock PCB hast connectors which just have to be fittet with switches. A second PCB is not an option for me :/

Thanks for the answer

[Mal-2]

Uhh okay, I thought the stock PCB hast connectors which just have to be fittet with switches. A second PCB is not an option for me :/

Thanks for the answer

And the answer is that it's not really a mouse, it's a mouse/rat hybrid.

[CeeSA]

You could use a Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical 1.1A as an alternative:

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