Group Build prototyping phase

[pyrelink]

Okay, so let me point out a couple things.

1. I am no master carpenter.
2. Both of my grand fathers are big into carpentry and I did a lot of stuff with him growing up, and inherited his workshop when he passed away.
3. My other granddad is still alive thankfully and he would be happy to help with anything, that I can't quite figure out. I love love working with wood, as well as electronics, so if I might possibly have any expertise in either area, I am more then happy to help.

As Matt3o has discovered with the Robot-65 wood case, wood is incredibly easy to work with, and if we forget about 3D printers, is an invaluable prototyping tool for things like this. Even though I suck at drawing (desperately need to spend the time and learn CAD) I am a very visual person. When you mention bevel, to ideas pop into my mind, that sound pretty awesome. I will crudely draw them in a second and post them, to see if its the kind of thing you are talking about.

Just to mention though, in my opinion (or at least in my experience/abilities) creating angled planes or any straight cuts, are far easier then rounded edges. I'll post pictures in a second.

[Muirium]

Straight bevels are good too. I mean the sharp edges should be sanded, as with anything intended to be handled frequently.

Looking forward to the sketches, Mr. Escher!

[pyrelink]

Again I might have completely missed the point of what you were suggesting, but assuming the blocks with curved lines are indicating 45 degree slopes, do any of those ring a bell?

Another idea I had (for all I know, what you intended) was basically a pyramid case (I like pyramids) with protruding angles on each side. So basically like the base of a pyramid with the top cut off. Actually I might have even drawn something like that on that page. Yeah, basically the top right case with that angle on each side. Not as dramatic of an incline though.

Actually, wow, I am pretty sure I drew nothing like you were thinking now that I think about it. All you mean is a basic case/box with angled edges?

Sorry, I get side tracked REALLY quickly.

To put it simply, if your defining feature of your case, is a bevel, that is absolutely not an issue at all. I love over complicating things. Especially after way too much cofffffeeeeee

[Muirium]

No, I like where you're going with this, too. I was thinking of something with deep chamfers (?) like my original Mac M0110 keyboard, but a little pyramid might be downright elegant! I'd put the keyboard's typing surface at an angle, though, so the pyramid itself is flat on the desk. Now I must get drawing too…

[pyrelink]

Ah, gotcha. Middle right "sketch" I was imagining that new Ducky Mini, but the Apple m0110 is a much better example. And yeah it would be no problem to do. My first priority is to make sure I order and can afford what I can out of this insanely great group build, and while I have many projects I want to finance, the wood case is by far the most exciting. So I will try and buy a good amount of cheap scrap pieces for prototyping. As well as a new belt for the bandsaw as I think it's closing in on 30 years old...

And remember with wood, glue is an excellent option. Although it would probably be best to fit the main pieces together via screws, incase you ever want access to the board again.

[Muirium]

Excellent! I've had a thing for custom wooden cases ever since I first saw them last year. (In fact, have you showed off creations of your own around here before? There was some gorgeous stuff going on a while ago.) Now that I have my shiny metal 60%, and a heavy metal Kishsaver, it's time for wood!

Good point about glue and screws. I'd like to have the bottom accessible: in fact the battery has to be available for occasional replacements. Ideally, I'd like to be able to pull the PCB out entirely, via screws too.

[matt3o]

few notes for the wood case aficionados.

I finally closed the case and ran some tests with the switches. As I foresaw the sound is pretty... unique. Definitely different from what we are used and probably something has to be done to reduce reverb. I'm thinking to add some insulation probably or maybe the PCB is enough to reduce the noise (especially with clicky switches).

Also, as already said, plywood is a bitch (actually it's birch ). The best thing you can do to ply is to paint it over or leave it as natural as possible (ie: avoid stain). I actually ended up weathering it so much that now it looks like an old box found in your grandma attic, I wanted to paint it gray (to host the Granite), but I must say that I like the weathered effect a lot so I believe I'll keep it. Not only that but I will probably weather the aluminum as well to give a consistent look at the whole (luckily I have a modeler background).

[pyrelink]

Nah, I have done my fair share of keyboard modding, and done a lot of painting, but never really saw the perfect opportunity to attempt a wooden case. It was (is) mainly because I want it to be truly unique and not just a cookie cutter TKL, or Poker case. After we get pricing here, and I order some scrap, I plan to open up a new thread for my progress and helping anyone else out with their designs or prototyping, what have you. Also I really love the idea of the "GizaBoard" (pyramid inspired keyboard), so please let me know of any ideas you might have.

Most likely my social ineptitude, but I hope this discussion isn't being too off topic/annoying or anything.

On topic though, I don't know what you call it over there but for a while now, I have been using "Drawer Liner"



Underneath the PCB in ALL of my Cherry MX keyboards. I originally used it in place of "dynamat" when I was big into headphone modding, and gave it a try in a keyboard. I loved what it did to the sound and the feel. Maybe if you have any of that (pretty cheap) you could give it a try?

[bearcat]

I also noticed the reverb effect with my wood case; I also used drawer liner foam matting as both footing (for anti-slip) and for taking the boom out of the keypresses. Just another data point

[Muirium]

few notes for the wood case aficionados.

I finally closed the case and ran some tests with the switches. As I foresaw the sound is pretty... unique.

Recording please! Who knows, maybe a spring buckler like me might like it. My M0110 is hollow sounding and reverberates loudly, too.

Bearing in mind I'm planning on using linear switches, without a plate, it shouldn't be too hard to dampen mine down anyway. In theory…

[Memoren]

I would like to hear what the reverb sounds like. Who knows maybe some people will like it.

[DanielT]

Found something interesting in RC parts store and bought some for my custom keyboard:

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This is a M3 nut, the height of the nut is 4mm and the exterior diameter is 4mm, this type on nuts can be inserted in the bottom plate and should give a nice flush look, no more nasty hex nuts. These are made from aluminum and work great on wood, and in theory should work nice also in acrylic. I will make some tests on an acrylic plate I have.

[matt3o]

it would be great if they could be found in M2.5. Can you take a picture of the head?

For the wood case I believe I've found the perfect solution (M2 wood nuts !!!), this one seems very nice for aluminum cases and probably acrylic too.

[DanielT]

Hope this is what you wanted to see:

Spoiler:

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This type of screws/bolts come also in the M2.5 flavour the exact size is M2.5x27.6 mm but only half of the bolt has a thread:

Spoiler:

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The nut is actually a wood nut, and they have it also in M2.5 and M2 flavors. And I liked this design better than the classic one with retaining claws like this:

[matt3o]

sorry, I wasn't clear. I mean the nut head, not the screw head. I'll post pictures of the wood nuts later, they are really nice.

[matt3o]

there you go



these goes inside the middle layers. No screws on the top of the keyboard, just very small (2M) screws to the bottom to hold the bottom plate.

[DanielT]

Oooo, these are nice, really nice.
I made some photos of the nut, hope are clear enough:

Spoiler:

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[matt3o]

oh, they are holed. I kinda wished they where flat

[DanielT]

That would have been perfect, a flat bottom would give a clean riveted look, but I'm happy I found even this, here I don't find easy stuff like that

[Ryan_Alan]

Those wood nuts look great.

Any word on finding a slightly nicer wood for the wooden case? Is it possible to get the CAD files from you and try and source it ourselves if there isn't group interest in spending a little more $$ to get a nicer hardwood? I imagine if a few people are interested the price would drop quickly on the wood.

[matt3o]

this must be the funkiest PCB ever... good thing is that I managed to make it 1 sided (very important for DIY PCBs).

[Muirium]

Groovy, baby!

[matt3o]

this is never going to work...



I just miss a hole for the usb extension cable.

[Muirium]

The conductive robot is pretty classy! You aren't planning on making this one by hand, are you?

[matt3o]

Not by hand. I'm trying various DIY techniques. I'll let you know which one works.

PS: lol! I wrote 2004... instead of 2014... wow, I knew I was retro.

[pyrelink]

I noticed that 2004. Thought it was weird, but figured there must have been a reason =D

I assume your main issue is the fact that it's a slightly "larger" keyboard and it's harder to fit all the traces on a single side?

Or is it due to Teensy placement, or something like that?

[matt3o]

the problem is that the controller is on the same layer of the switches, so I have to do everything on one layer, but at the end it is better because it's easier with DIY pcbs.

on paper it seems to work, but I'm sure I did some stupid error.

[matt3o]

... yeah indeed... like I said I already spotted a couple of errors... I hate PCBs.

[pyrelink]

Ah. Gotcha. Hand wiring is a hell of a lot easier, but also pretty inconvenient for some people. In either case, what you have so far LOOKS incredibly spiffy!

[Muirium]

Not by hand. I'm trying various DIY techniques. I'll let you know which one works.

Cool. I have a bag of reasons to keep an eye on this.