qHack Development
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Please discuss the technical issues of the qHack here
My first question:
Is it OK to place the controller in the 2nd row from top?
I want to place stabiliser mounts for a 2 units BACK SPACE key where the controller is now at the HyperMicro, so there would be too many holes. I don't want to place it further inwards. It is more convenient to have it one row down.
BTW: I will start with the Cherry version and make the Alps version later. It is possible to have both on one PCB, but things get impossible with multiple mount options.
ALPS: Which stabilisers to be used with Alps switches?
Are Cherry PCB or plate mountable stabilisers possible?
At least I've read something like that.
My first question:
Is it OK to place the controller in the 2nd row from top?
I want to place stabiliser mounts for a 2 units BACK SPACE key where the controller is now at the HyperMicro, so there would be too many holes. I don't want to place it further inwards. It is more convenient to have it one row down.
BTW: I will start with the Cherry version and make the Alps version later. It is possible to have both on one PCB, but things get impossible with multiple mount options.
ALPS: Which stabilisers to be used with Alps switches?
Are Cherry PCB or plate mountable stabilisers possible?
At least I've read something like that.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Ah, good to see progress on this one. The qHack is a nice layout and a cute name!
Do not worry about lining up the Teensy's socket to the outside. Much better we run our own internal cables instead. At least that's how I like to do it.
But then again, your row 0 is crazy for trying to match to common keysets. Who actually prefers 2u row 1 Backspace to 1.5u row 2 when they have the choice? And are they likely to get a qHack?
I asked Matias recently, and says he'll sell Alps mount caps (and he has some unspecified solution for stabs, too). But the best bet for a layout like this is a custom order at SP, I bet.
Matias and MX need different plates anyway, if you want a plate in this keyboard.
Yes. It just makes the keyboard case thicker. This isn't great, but we have CNC capability now thanks to Matteo, so perhaps our cases can become smarter with a sculpted recess etc.7bit wrote: ↑ My first question:
Is it OK to place the controller in the 2nd row from top?
Do not worry about lining up the Teensy's socket to the outside. Much better we run our own internal cables instead. At least that's how I like to do it.
I guess that's a reasonable compromise. A 2u Backspace seems like a waste on such a small keyboard, but they are more available than HHKB style keys.7bit wrote: ↑I want to place stabiliser mounts for a 2 units BACK SPACE key where the controller is now at the HyperMicro, so there would be too many holes. I don't want to place it further inwards. It is more convenient to have it one row down.
But then again, your row 0 is crazy for trying to match to common keysets. Who actually prefers 2u row 1 Backspace to 1.5u row 2 when they have the choice? And are they likely to get a qHack?
SP makes Alps mount MX stabs hybrid caps, right? That's your answer there. Because classic Alps caps won't work on this board. I can't even find a good Poker / HHKB style 60% block in classic Alps.7bit wrote: ↑BTW: I will start with the Cherry version and make the Alps version later. It is possible to have both on one PCB, but things get impossible with multiple mount options.
ALPS: Which stabilisers to be used with Alps switches?
I asked Matias recently, and says he'll sell Alps mount caps (and he has some unspecified solution for stabs, too). But the best bet for a layout like this is a custom order at SP, I bet.
Cherry stabs come in both PCB and plate mount, as you know of course, and both would be compatible with hybrid Alps centre mount + MX stab mount SP caps. So I wouldn't worry much.7bit wrote: ↑Are Cherry PCB or plate mountable stabilisers possible?
At least I've read something like that.
Matias and MX need different plates anyway, if you want a plate in this keyboard.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
2u backspace: I don't need it, but others do. I want 100% Cherry key cap support.
Ideally, this keyboard makes the Miniguru obsolete.
However, lowpoly can still sell me his trackpoint invention.
Ideally, this keyboard makes the Miniguru obsolete.
However, lowpoly can still sell me his trackpoint invention.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Now we're talking.
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Please do source some real space bars for this project, not Shift keys.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I don't. But for completeness and reference, the complete design:
webwit wrote: ↑Take HHKB layout (with the second layer and extra Fun key to allow for touch typing of arrow keys). Add keys to empty space on bottom row. Don't fuck around with the spacing/size of the existing bottom row keys, they line up with touch typing fingers. Split the space bar in half, make Space/Back Space swappable (or both Space) like on an IBM Model M15. I like Space to the right. Give it colemak layout, use blank keys (the picture just shows labels for your exclusive convenience). This is just to scare the not-initiated. Well ok, you may use qwerty if you persist. Add "lowpoly" trackpoint, a scrollwheel and three mouse buttons. Add Duck key. Duck key + mouse buttons = volume control. Done.
Of course the labels/layouts are just examples/defaults as the keyboard is programmable to whatever one prefers.webwit wrote: ↑It's the HHKB + miniguru + IBM Erase-Eaze. I added the scroll wheel and Duck key. Although the Duck key doesn't count because the actual scan code is up to the user (like Windows context menu key or something).
It's like an Apple product, it combines theses features into a neat single package... and BAM...revolutionary!
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
If you plan on going SA, we even have the legend tooled up for that all important duck:
http://deskthority.net/vendors-f52/hone ... ml#p176610
What size(s) are those split halves of the space bar? Looks like 2.5 and 3u to me, which is a bit awkward to source.
http://deskthority.net/vendors-f52/hone ... ml#p176610
What size(s) are those split halves of the space bar? Looks like 2.5 and 3u to me, which is a bit awkward to source.
- facetsesame
- Mad Dasher
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Ducky Legend
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX red for linear, white for click
- DT Pro Member: 0092
The catch with Matt's duck is that it's too detailed to fit on a 1 unit cap as a double shot legend. I believe the tooling should be ok for any wider SA row 3 key though
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
qHack is easy, except for the bottom row.
If we go with Cherry DG, or equivalent switches, the stabilisers get into their way. All I can do is to make the PCB wider at the bottom.
To get stabilisers not to interfere, the PCB must extend at the bottom by around 7mm. Then, all you have are little nubs pointing out from the switches to be pushed. There are no key caps for mouse buttons.
If we go with Cherry DG, or equivalent switches, the stabilisers get into their way. All I can do is to make the PCB wider at the bottom.
To get stabilisers not to interfere, the PCB must extend at the bottom by around 7mm. Then, all you have are little nubs pointing out from the switches to be pushed. There are no key caps for mouse buttons.
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro2, CM QFS MX Green, SSK, ErgoDox (MX Blue)
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac X, Logitech MX518,
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, MX Green
- DT Pro Member: -
If you do stretch the lower side of the keyboard (I mean the one facing the user), you might just use normal key caps and cherry switches just like the Tex Yoda seems to be doing it?7bit wrote: ↑qHack is easy, except for the bottom row.
If we go with Cherry DG, or equivalent switches, the stabilisers get into their way. All I can do is to make the PCB wider at the bottom.
To get stabilisers not to interfere, the PCB must extend at the bottom by around 7mm. Then, all you have are little nubs pointing out from the switches to be pushed. There are no key caps for mouse buttons.
I think it actually looks quite nice: https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 0904_n.jpg
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Steve Jobs would not agree with a bigger PCB, so I'm afraid we have to use glue instead of stabilisers.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
We can always get rid of stabilisers!
But even then:
We need a little space anyway, because the next thing that is in the way are the switches.
The Miniguru 'solves' this by leaving away the center button and going with a conventional space bar (6.25 units at least, 4 units would not be wide enough).
I'm afraid there is not much choice.
edit:
With 1.5 units keys it would work. No other choices available!
BTW:
What about the scroll wheel, webwit?
As far as I know that was your job to find one that suits your layout.
But even then:
We need a little space anyway, because the next thing that is in the way are the switches.
The Miniguru 'solves' this by leaving away the center button and going with a conventional space bar (6.25 units at least, 4 units would not be wide enough).
I'm afraid there is not much choice.
edit:
With 1.5 units keys it would work. No other choices available!
BTW:
What about the scroll wheel, webwit?
As far as I know that was your job to find one that suits your layout.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
And ONLY ONE BUTTON!webwit wrote: ↑Steve Jobs would not agree with a bigger PCB, so I'm afraid we have to use glue instead of stabilisers.
Alternatively: use smaller caps. Stabs are bad news, and best avoided wherever possible.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I'm not sure if that was my job, but I did search for that. I couldn't find any good stuff Or mouse parts in general. Possible I don't know the right part shops. But I think it's because mice are made and replaced whole and there is no industry for separate parts, at least not in non-industrial quantities.7bit wrote: ↑What about the scroll wheel, webwit?
As far as I know that was you job to find one that suits your layout.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Was more a joke!
I would leave out 1 unit for a scroll-wheel, but would be great if anybody who owns a mouse with a scroll wheel, would take it apart and measure if it could fit, or how large it is.
I don't own mice with scroll wheels, all I have is a RollerMouse with a scroll-wheels that is at least 2 units wide.
Good news: Controller goes into center of top row.
I would leave out 1 unit for a scroll-wheel, but would be great if anybody who owns a mouse with a scroll wheel, would take it apart and measure if it could fit, or how large it is.
I don't own mice with scroll wheels, all I have is a RollerMouse with a scroll-wheels that is at least 2 units wide.
Good news: Controller goes into center of top row.
- lowpoly
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: Miniguru
- DT Pro Member: -
Historically, there was nothing to solve as the prototype uses a two-button trackpoint model.7bit wrote: ↑The Miniguru 'solves' this by leaving away the center button and going with a conventional space bar
Look for rotary encoders, here's one from our favorite company:wheel
http://kailh.manufacturer.globalsources ... ncoder.htm
You now need a counter support with a bearing, and a wheel. The difficult part is to make it look good.
Maybe I can help with making prototype wheels, I have a lathe. The last time I did some knurling was 30 years ago though.
Edit:
Here's the Kailh startpage with the key switches:
http://kailh.manufacturer.globalsources ... mepage.htm
- lowpoly
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: Miniguru
- DT Pro Member: -
I just had that in my bookmarks. Here's a ton with lower MOQs:
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?Sea ... 0806123942
Why not China?
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?Sea ... 0806123942
Why not China?
Kailh Cherry clones, yes.BTW: They have also fake Cherry switches.
- lowpoly
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: Miniguru
- DT Pro Member: -
4 posts up.7bit wrote: ↑And what about the wheel itself?
Depends on how "perfect" you want it. You need a hex axis. If you want to do the wheel one part (better) you have to do the hex part in a second step on a mill with a rotary table (assuming non-cnc machines). That's a lot of work. It would be easier to fit a hex axis (allen key for ex.) into a wheel with a hole. Then fasten the wheel to the axis with a small worm screw. So you have that worm screw channel. Not perfect, but easy.
Edit: this would be a better diy construction:
green: rotary shaft encoder
purple: allen key segment
yellow: wheel
cyan: model flange ball bearing
gray: aluminum counter support
With this you could actually press-fit the allen key segment into the wheel.
Hex is probably available as semi-finished stock too.
Last edited by lowpoly on 01 Jun 2018, 16:35, edited 2 times in total.