Same here
[IC] ANSI & ISO TKL phantom plate.(modeled by Joey Quinn) JD40 style.
-
lolpes
- Location: UK
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Vintage Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
I Think that is the whole point, but for the middle piece, you may want to contact gon, or sprit or just make one yourselfwacko78 wrote:Would these plates work for a sandwich style case?
-
wafflepc
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
For the mid piece do you mean something similar to the GON style keyboard, or the pcb? The keyboard i am making does not have a mid piece. Checkout some of JDCarpes work.
-
wafflepc
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
[/quote]I know it doesn't but that was the whole point of my comment is that it is possible to add a middle piece after if anyone desires
[/quote]
It would have to be custom, but the screws are far enough away from the PCB that it will be possible.
It would have to be custom, but the screws are far enough away from the PCB that it will be possible.
- skiwithpete
- Main keyboard: PokerII
- Main mouse: Thermaltake Level10
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Just wanted to jump in here and say that I'm interested when this happens.
P
P
-
wafflepc
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- meow a cat
- Location: British Columbia, Canada
- Main keyboard: KMAC LE, '91 SSK, HHKB
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Epic
- Favorite switch: Ergo-Clear, Topre, Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I don't think this would fit a Filco like the OP says. There's no cutout for the controller.
- skiwithpete
- Main keyboard: PokerII
- Main mouse: Thermaltake Level10
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
- telepete
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Logitech G500
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
Is there an updated render for ANSI 150 with the stabs mounted directly on the plates? I just want to be sure this thing will fit. Also, would it be possible to have a hole in the back that lines up with the teensy 2 button? I'd rather not take the whole thing apart for reprogramming. Any thoughts on this folks?
-
wafflepc
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
The new models arent finished yet, should be by tomorrow. The design is open, so you wont have to have a hole. The plate is about 1 inch above the bottom plate, which should leave finger room to press the teensy.telepete wrote: Is there an updated render for ANSI 150 with the stabs mounted directly on the plates? I just want to be sure this thing will fit. Also, would it be possible to have a hole in the back that lines up with the teensy 2 button? I'd rather not take the whole thing apart for reprogramming. Any thoughts on this folks?
-
wafflepc
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
Ill ask Joey if he can put that in! Great idea!
- meow a cat
- Location: British Columbia, Canada
- Main keyboard: KMAC LE, '91 SSK, HHKB
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Epic
- Favorite switch: Ergo-Clear, Topre, Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
If you're not using some sort of spacer piece in the middle of the case, the Phantom Teensy is pretty close to the top edge of the plate, so you should just be able to use a pen or something to push the button. You'd most likely only have to press the button once anyway, as you can assign a key combination to put the board into bootloader mode once you program a layout.telepete wrote: Is there an updated render for ANSI 150 with the stabs mounted directly on the plates? I just want to be sure this thing will fit. Also, would it be possible to have a hole in the back that lines up with the teensy 2 button? I'd rather not take the whole thing apart for reprogramming. Any thoughts on this folks?
- telepete
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Logitech G500
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
meow a cat wrote:If you're not using some sort of spacer piece in the middle of the case, the Phantom Teensy is pretty close to the top edge of the plate, so you should just be able to use a pen or something to push the button. You'd most likely only have to press the button once anyway, as you can assign a key combination to put the board into bootloader mode once you program a layout.telepete wrote: Is there an updated render for ANSI 150 with the stabs mounted directly on the plates? I just want to be sure this thing will fit. Also, would it be possible to have a hole in the back that lines up with the teensy 2 button? I'd rather not take the whole thing apart for reprogramming. Any thoughts on this folks?
This is true. I suppose I'll adjust the layout when I'm taking it apart to fit everything to the new plate. I do plan to have some sort of 4 piece acrylic spacer made (although the case looks pretty good as is) but I'll assign a key combo as you have suggested in case of further changes (although I can't imagine I'll bring back Caps Lock!). As an aside, is there a GH thread for this? It would be sweet to get a cheap pricing tier via more interested people.
-
wafflepc
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
There is, just posted it yesterday. No ones bitten though :/ Im not sure of the exact prices, get those next week, but it should be cheaper then before.telepete wrote:meow a cat wrote:If you're not using some sort of spacer piece in the middle of the case, the Phantom Teensy is pretty close to the top edge of the plate, so you should just be able to use a pen or something to push the button. You'd most likely only have to press the button once anyway, as you can assign a key combination to put the board into bootloader mode once you program a layout.telepete wrote: Is there an updated render for ANSI 150 with the stabs mounted directly on the plates? I just want to be sure this thing will fit. Also, would it be possible to have a hole in the back that lines up with the teensy 2 button? I'd rather not take the whole thing apart for reprogramming. Any thoughts on this folks?
This is true. I suppose I'll adjust the layout when I'm taking it apart to fit everything to the new plate. I do plan to have some sort of 4 piece acrylic spacer made (although the case looks pretty good as is) but I'll assign a key combo as you have suggested in case of further changes (although I can't imagine I'll bring back Caps Lock!). As an aside, is there a GH thread for this? It would be sweet to get a cheap pricing tier via more interested people.
- skiwithpete
- Main keyboard: PokerII
- Main mouse: Thermaltake Level10
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
- meow a cat
- Location: British Columbia, Canada
- Main keyboard: KMAC LE, '91 SSK, HHKB
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Epic
- Favorite switch: Ergo-Clear, Topre, Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Just to let you guys know, if you e-mail MechanicalKeyboards, they can arrange cheaper shipping via USPS INTL First Class. Not sure how much cheaper it would be to Aus or Portugal, but for Canada the shipping went from $25USD to $10USD. They also have Teensy 2.0s in stock again.. when I e-mailed them I also asked about Teensy 2.0s, and they didn't realize they hadn't updated the site with their stock.
Worth a try?
-
retrochick
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: DAS Professional
- Main mouse: Logitech
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
Interested if this will fit a QFR pcb and if we can get it down to under $100 
- meow a cat
- Location: British Columbia, Canada
- Main keyboard: KMAC LE, '91 SSK, HHKB
- Main mouse: Razer Naga Epic
- Favorite switch: Ergo-Clear, Topre, Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -