What's the best way to clean keycaps?
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
So one of the guys in our Systems department where I work found a dusty old IBM Model M in a drawer and gave it to me since I've acquired some kind of reputation for being obsessed with keyboards. I have no idea what I'll do with it, but it really needs to be cleaned up.
So what is the best way to deep-clean the keycaps?
So what is the best way to deep-clean the keycaps?
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
Some people put them in a dishwasher. Some just use soapy water. I like using very hot water, denture tablets, and a toothbrush. One word of warning: keep ABS AWAY from boiling water! I have a right-angled Cherry spacebar from making that mistake before. That goes for many Model M spacebars too.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
When I have time and the caps are nice enough (vintage sphericals) I wear kitchen rubber gloves and have a small cup with kitchen detergent at hand and keep dipping into the detergent and rub the caps clean with my fingers. After that treatment a regular wash in the dishwasher or per hand.
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
The method I always use is this:
Put the keycaps in a washing bag - the kind that women use for washing their push-up bras.
Put half a dozen denture cleaning tablets into the bag also, and close the bag.
Place the bag with keycaps and tablets into a high-walled bowl and pour warm (not hot) water from the tap, just so much that it covers the keycaps.
Leave it to fizz for an hour or longer.
Drain the bowl and rinse several times, perhaps by repeating filling the bowl with water and dipping
Hang to dry for at least a day.
This is very easy and the keycaps are almost always very clean afterwards. It was only when someone had written on a keycap with a marker that this didn't work: that was cleaned off with a q-tip and some alcohol.
Put the keycaps in a washing bag - the kind that women use for washing their push-up bras.
Put half a dozen denture cleaning tablets into the bag also, and close the bag.
Place the bag with keycaps and tablets into a high-walled bowl and pour warm (not hot) water from the tap, just so much that it covers the keycaps.
Leave it to fizz for an hour or longer.
Drain the bowl and rinse several times, perhaps by repeating filling the bowl with water and dipping
Hang to dry for at least a day.
This is very easy and the keycaps are almost always very clean afterwards. It was only when someone had written on a keycap with a marker that this didn't work: that was cleaned off with a q-tip and some alcohol.
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
I usually use warm water (60-70 degrees) and denture tablets (1 for normally dirty caps, 2 for more filthy ones), leave them for a few hours and then wipe with a cloth before rinsing.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
I use warm water and dish washing liquid detergent. Soak overnight. If the caps were very dirty, I might use some scrubbing with fingers while wearing rubber gloves. Rinse thoroughly, drain in a colander, spread on a towel to air dry overnight.
Sometimes I include a light scrub with 70% (v/v) isopropyl alcohol.
Sometimes I include a light scrub with 70% (v/v) isopropyl alcohol.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Right never more than a second run, and that very seldom.chzel wrote: ↑Half a dozen? I think it's overkill...I might do a second run with another couple of tablets for extremely filthy caps, but no more!
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
"Magic Erasers" are supposedly similar to sandpaper.
-
- Location: JAPAN
- Main keyboard: Model M, dodoo dome keyboard,CherryMX numeric pad
- Main mouse: logitech Master,M705 and 3 Logitech mice
- Favorite switch: ff
- DT Pro Member: -
I put the keycaps on water with body wash first. Then using the toothbrush with toothpaste to clean keycap and switch plastic shell one on one...
When it dry, I use the natural alcohol tissue to clean it deeply.
That takes me 3+hours but 100% clean all the time.
When it dry, I use the natural alcohol tissue to clean it deeply.
That takes me 3+hours but 100% clean all the time.
- Compgeke
- Location: Fairfield, California, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M 1391401
- Main mouse: Coolermaster Recon
- Favorite switch: IBM Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0040
I use a mix of dish soap, oxy clean and fairly warm water (aka max heat from the sink). Let it sit for a few hours, rinse, dry. Never had a problem doing this although I can't promise cheap pad printing will survive - never done it to really cheap caps.
On something like a Model F spacebar you don't want to remove simple green and a clean rag\sponge works wonders.
On something like a Model F spacebar you don't want to remove simple green and a clean rag\sponge works wonders.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Exactly! Well not quite , but they are very good for getting rid of shine on a space bar or on double shot caps.Findecanor wrote: ↑"Magic Erasers" are supposedly similar to sandpaper.
- OleVoip
- Location: Hamburg
- Main keyboard: Tandberg TDV-5010
- Main mouse: Wacom Pen & Touch
- Favorite switch: Siemens STB 21
- DT Pro Member: -
I also use such a bag - and simply wash them along with other laundry, 60°C cottons program.Findecanor wrote: ↑Put the keycaps in a washing bag - the kind that women use for washing their push-up bras.
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: IBM Bigfoot + Arduino
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Model F buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Soaking key caps, either ABS or PBT, overnight in a bucket of warm water and common liquid laundry soap has been satisfactory so far, followed by two thorough rinses and blow-dry using a foot bellows, the sort that pumps air into inflatable mattresses. The blow dry avoids water stains and lime scale deposits, and clears out water from nooks and crannies. Washing with softened water is a bonus.
- ramnes
- ПБТ НАВСЕГДА
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: KMAC LE
- Main mouse: Zowie AM
- Favorite switch: GPL 104 lubed 62g nixies
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm not using dental tabs anymore, since it has put some white marks on some of my keycaps several times. And anyway it's just as ineffective as hot water + soap.
I'm still searching for a simpler way to clean keycaps thoroughly than washing caps one by one.
I'm still searching for a simpler way to clean keycaps thoroughly than washing caps one by one.
- clickykeyboards
- Location: United States of America
- Main keyboard: 1395682, IBM model M 1985
- Main mouse: Logitech G500 weighted
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0233
- Contact:
Earlier this year, I started to feel my hands getting old and I switched from cleaning tiny keys in the sink by hand (all 101 keys) to using an industrial-grade ultrasonic cleaner with warm water and a drop of detergent. Simply load the removable wire basket, warm water to 35'C, turn on ultrasonic motor/vibrator. Then I clean the keyboard front case in the sink by hand and 5 minutes later, all the keys are mechanically deep cleaned. It works great in removing 20+ years of dirt, grime and grease and is very consistent and helps to increase my workflow throughput. Since switching, I've seen my water bill drop significantly and am using much less detergent and the ultrasonic cleaner has now paid for itself. (Of course, we typically clean 20-30 keyboards every 30 days).
If you just have one keyboard to clean, then cleaning the keys individually in the sink with a bit of detergent and a kitchen rag is the cheapest.
If you just have one keyboard to clean, then cleaning the keys individually in the sink with a bit of detergent and a kitchen rag is the cheapest.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@clickykeyboards: Looks like a tasty batch of fries you've go there! Seriously, though, the ultrasonic method looks good. Thanks for sharing this technique.
- clickykeyboards
- Location: United States of America
- Main keyboard: 1395682, IBM model M 1985
- Main mouse: Logitech G500 weighted
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0233
- Contact:
Wish I had switched sooner. Whenever I look at the old metal cutlery basket that I used to manually clean the individual key caps in, I just imagine all water, detergent, and time that I could have saved and all the waste that literally went down the drain.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I've thought about using the ultrasonic cleaner from the lab but it's kinda of powerful so I'm afraid of shattering my caps, especially the PBT ones xD .
- clickykeyboards
- Location: United States of America
- Main keyboard: 1395682, IBM model M 1985
- Main mouse: Logitech G500 weighted
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0233
- Contact:
Well.. I can only personally attest to my personal experience and confirm that the sonic cleaner works great with the model M dinosaur bones.
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Maybe. I remember it was half a dozen in the original recipe I read years ago on GH and because that worked, I stuck with it. I found it reasonable because the relative surface area of one set of dentures compared to 105 keycaps.chzel wrote: ↑Half a dozen? I think it's overkill...
I have never needed a second run.
There is a little bit of hydrogen peroxide in the type that I use. (Corega Tabs) I know you could get white marks if you retr0bright keys for too long, but I don't think there is nearly as much hydrogen peroxide in the tablets as in retr0brite solution.ramnes wrote: ↑I'm not using dental tabs anymore, since it has put some white marks on some of my keycaps several times. And anyway it's just as ineffective as hot water + soap.
Anyway, the big points of the method are:
- Using a washing bag helps a great deal.
- The fizz and abrasive particles from the tablets should make rubbing unnecessary.
This means that there is no need to handle any individual keycap other than when pulling them or putting them back. Very convenient.
I use this H-shaped keycap puller which makes the act of pulling a keyboard very fast - I think I could pull a full-sized keyboard in under a minute if I really tried. I know some people here are afraid of scratches from such a puller, but I have never noticed any. I think that maybe the H-shaped puller could be somewhat safer than ring-type pullers.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
You think something like this would work ?clickykeyboards wrote: ↑Earlier this year, I started to feel my hands getting old and I switched from cleaning tiny keys in the sink by hand (all 101 keys) to using an industrial-grade ultrasonic cleaner with warm water and a drop of detergent. Simply load the removable wire basket, warm water to 35'C, turn on ultrasonic motor/vibrator. Then I clean the keyboard front case in the sink by hand and 5 minutes later, all the keys are mechanically deep cleaned. It works great in removing 20+ years of dirt, grime and grease and is very consistent and helps to increase my workflow throughput. Since switching, I've seen my water bill drop significantly and am using much less detergent and the ultrasonic cleaner has now paid for itself. (Of course, we typically clean 20-30 keyboards every 30 days).
If you just have one keyboard to clean, then cleaning the keys individually in the sink with a bit of detergent and a kitchen rag is the cheapest.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Profe ... R160%2C160_
Ideally i would like something bigger that i can clean PCBs with too.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I find the description of the capacity funny, "Professional ultrasonic cleaner with 3L capacity, but the real capacity is 2.6L."
Uhm, ok, so it's a cleaner with 2.6L capacity.
Good thing they stopped right there, otherwise the rest of the description would read something like this:
Completely in Stainless Steel with 3 powerful transducers, but the real number of transducers is 2.
120 Watt of ultrasonic power (100 Watt really), 100 Watt of heating power (the real number is 80).
etc.
Uhm, ok, so it's a cleaner with 2.6L capacity.
Good thing they stopped right there, otherwise the rest of the description would read something like this:
Completely in Stainless Steel with 3 powerful transducers, but the real number of transducers is 2.
120 Watt of ultrasonic power (100 Watt really), 100 Watt of heating power (the real number is 80).
etc.
- 002
- Topre Enthusiast
- Location: Australia
- Main keyboard: Realforce & Libertouch
- Main mouse: Logitech G Pro Wireless
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0002
Stainless steel...ok you got us it can actually stain (and it's plastic)
120 Watt of ultrasonic power...wait did we say ultra? it's more like maybe "super"
100 Watt of heating power (when placed on a 100 Watt stove element)
120 Watt of ultrasonic power...wait did we say ultra? it's more like maybe "super"
100 Watt of heating power (when placed on a 100 Watt stove element)
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
To clean Cherry caps, I use an old G81 with its case removed.
I put the caps on the switches (respecting the layout, so repopulating the original keyboard afterwards will be much easier)
and the whole assembly on 6-8 dental tabs in a fitting plastic box which I then fill with hot water, just covering the caps.
The metal plate of the G81 is heavy enough to keep the whole assembly under water.
After 10-15 minutes, I thoroughly brush (all sides of) the caps with a smooth paint brush,
rinse the whole assembly under clear water,
remove any remaining water drops with a cloth
and let the whole thing dry.
This way I don’t have to grip every single cap but still perform mechanical cleaning of each one,
there is no water at all in the stem of the caps as they remain on switches during the whole procedure,
and putting each cap back in its right place is very easy.
I put the caps on the switches (respecting the layout, so repopulating the original keyboard afterwards will be much easier)
and the whole assembly on 6-8 dental tabs in a fitting plastic box which I then fill with hot water, just covering the caps.
The metal plate of the G81 is heavy enough to keep the whole assembly under water.
After 10-15 minutes, I thoroughly brush (all sides of) the caps with a smooth paint brush,
rinse the whole assembly under clear water,
remove any remaining water drops with a cloth
and let the whole thing dry.
This way I don’t have to grip every single cap but still perform mechanical cleaning of each one,
there is no water at all in the stem of the caps as they remain on switches during the whole procedure,
and putting each cap back in its right place is very easy.
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Okay, so once I've cleaned this bugger, how do I confirm that all the switches still work? Does someone make an USB or PS/2 adaptor cable for this thing?