I want something I have never seen...
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
My husband loves to play tankionline.com. Due to arthritis, his fingertips on certain fingers are twisted almost 45 degrees, so he has trouble using keyboard cursor keys, because more than one finger touches the key. His hands and fingers are large, so they need to be fairly well spaced apart. Also needs to be audibly clicky, since he has greatly reduced sensation in his fingertips.
We have joysticks and trackballs, but the game does not seem to be able to use these; only keyboard commands are accepted. He is VERY right-handed, so the left-handed mouse I have will not work either.
Any suggestions?
We have joysticks and trackballs, but the game does not seem to be able to use these; only keyboard commands are accepted. He is VERY right-handed, so the left-handed mouse I have will not work either.
Any suggestions?
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
I would suggest something like this:
It is a fully programmable Tipro board (this model has an own controller), so that cursor keys could be arranged in any desired way with blanking tops between them.
It has black MX switches, so it would have to be populated with blue switches (which implies soldering because the switches are plate-mounted).
I would be happy to contribute the board and a switch donor board if someone is ready to do the soldering job.
It is a fully programmable Tipro board (this model has an own controller), so that cursor keys could be arranged in any desired way with blanking tops between them.
It has black MX switches, so it would have to be populated with blue switches (which implies soldering because the switches are plate-mounted).
I would be happy to contribute the board and a switch donor board if someone is ready to do the soldering job.
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
I can do the soldering, I've got enough switches, either blues or greens (I have about 10 greens, the rest would be ghetto greens).
Greens might be a better choice. especially if strength is not a problem. The spring is the same as the blacks, so the tactility and the click are a bit more pronounced.
Greens might be a better choice. especially if strength is not a problem. The spring is the same as the blacks, so the tactility and the click are a bit more pronounced.
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
Wow guys, thank you! Let me know what I would owe for this gem.
I don't think a solenoid is needed; the game makes lots of noises as it blows things up
I don't think a solenoid is needed; the game makes lots of noises as it blows things up
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I can donate some nice double shot arrow keys if you like , i also have other 1x2 POS keys that may be useful to you.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
Same here, nothing owed.
Should the switches be blues or greens?
Also which keys are needed, and in what layout?
I had a fast look at the game and it seems we only need arrows, z, x and space, correct?
Should the switches be blues or greens?
Also which keys are needed, and in what layout?
I had a fast look at the game and it seems we only need arrows, z, x and space, correct?
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
Arrows, z, x, and Space, correct You guys are super!
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Let me know when the board is sorted and i will send a collection of useful caps prob best to send it to the person doing the soldering job.
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
Jim is asking if the arrow keys can all be 2u wide please. His fingers are very large, and they twist. 2u he says would be really great. z, x, and Space above the arrows would be great. He does not need the arrows to be printed on the caps, if tis is a problem. He does not care if they are blues or greens; he is using blues right now.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Cindy, perhaps it would be a good idea if you could draw a matrix showing where which keys should be.
This way andrewjoy could find out which caps could fit,
chzel could solder switches just where required*,
and I could even pre-program the board for you
*as (i) the blanking caps actually press the switches down and cause a beep because no NKRO and (ii) on double keys, one of both switches could be without a spring, thus acting as a stabilizer without more force being required to press the key.
This way andrewjoy could find out which caps could fit,
chzel could solder switches just where required*,
and I could even pre-program the board for you
*as (i) the blanking caps actually press the switches down and cause a beep because no NKRO and (ii) on double keys, one of both switches could be without a spring, thus acting as a stabilizer without more force being required to press the key.
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
On the picture you have above, the arrow keys are in the correct places, but make each one 2u wide. The right and left arrows would cover the entire row. The up and down arrows would be centered. z, x and space is up to you; all he asked is that they be above the arrows. I am sorry, but I don't have anything to draw with? I have never tried to depict a keyboard layout before
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I don't know how many blank 2u caps i have, you said you dont mind if they have stuff on them so the multi coloured F1 to F8 i have will do i think .elecplus wrote: ↑Jim is asking if the arrow keys can all be 2u wide please. His fingers are very large, and they twist. 2u he says would be really great. z, x, and Space above the arrows would be great. He does not need the arrows to be printed on the caps, if tis is a problem. He does not care if they are blues or greens; he is using blues right now.
You want the Z X and Space 2u also ?
Think its best to add an escape there too ? You never know right.
Something like this ?
( you will have to copy links )
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/# ... 2%3B&=Down
Or an inverted T ?
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/# ... %3B&=Right
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
Jim likes this but he is asking if the z and x can also be 2u?
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
Yes He says that is super, and thanks you so very much!
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Another question:
Under each double key there are of course two switches, and the force required to press the key is thus double (because you actually press down two switches with a spring in each).
If in one of the switches the spring is removed, the force needed to press the key is the same as for a single key, and the slider of the springless switch acts as a stabilizer, passively moving up and down with the keycap and preventing it from wobbling.
So do you want two "active" switches under each double key, or only one?
This has to be decided upon before soldering the switches because being plate-mounted, they cannot be opened afterwards.
Once we know that, I will draw a "populating plan" for chezel, program the board and send it to him.
I'll also add relegendable keycaps with appropriate legends, even if "proper" caps being higher, they will probably be better.
And of course a cable.
That's a nice international action with you being in the US, chzel in Greece, andrewjoy in the UK and I in Germany
Under each double key there are of course two switches, and the force required to press the key is thus double (because you actually press down two switches with a spring in each).
If in one of the switches the spring is removed, the force needed to press the key is the same as for a single key, and the slider of the springless switch acts as a stabilizer, passively moving up and down with the keycap and preventing it from wobbling.
So do you want two "active" switches under each double key, or only one?
This has to be decided upon before soldering the switches because being plate-mounted, they cannot be opened afterwards.
Once we know that, I will draw a "populating plan" for chezel, program the board and send it to him.
I'll also add relegendable keycaps with appropriate legends, even if "proper" caps being higher, they will probably be better.
And of course a cable.
That's a nice international action with you being in the US, chzel in Greece, andrewjoy in the UK and I in Germany
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
We are at the car dealership. Our truck died last week, so we have to get another vehicle. I will ask him when he comes out.
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
Jim said whatever you guys think is best is fine
- derzemel
- Location: Bucharest, Romania
- Main keyboard: FC660C, SSK, TX-1800 Nixie
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 7000
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCL/SKCM tactile
In case the 50g spring inside MXBlue is too weak, I have 55G springs on my Leeku and I plan to change a few to 60g mx black springs.chzel wrote: ↑Is the spring in the blues strong enough to lift a 2u cap? I'm not at home right now, but I'll check later.
edit: I mean 1 spring for 2u
I can send you some of the ones I take out.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Romania on board!
I entirely rely on chzel and you for that issue as I'm only familiar with blacks.
Have sent a PM to chzel to clear some other technical questions.
I entirely rely on chzel and you for that issue as I'm only familiar with blacks.
Have sent a PM to chzel to clear some other technical questions.
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
8:30 on a Saturday morning, and the postman is banging insistently on our door. It is 38 degrees and raining; a miserable day. The postman banging on the door is even more unusual. Usually he just leaves a pile on the doorstep, if it won't fit in the box. His mission: to deliver a box from Greece. It is addressed to me, but Jim knows it is coming, so he opens it. He is delighted! Thanks so much for all your efforts!