Mythbusting ~ Acer 6xxx PBT dyesub Alps compatible keycaps
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I've done a good amount of research on Alps compatible dyesub keycaps. It is said consistently that Acer 6xxx boards with top printed legends have dyesub caps. This Acer 6311-AW fits the bill. (Unless I'm mistaken and these are pad prints... Correct me if I'm wrong.)
Confirmed.
I've also heard that the caps yellow as if they aren't PBT. Use the white Acer switch slider as a reference for color.
Confirmed.
Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/adevriesc ... 0267831940
I'll purchase some acetone to test the plastic soon. If it passes the acetone test and turns out to be PBT, it shows conclusively that bromine compounds (or unknown factors) can cause that type of plastic to yellow.
If it isn't PBT, what other plastics could handle the dye sublimation process? I didn't think ABS could survive the temperatures involved.
Confirmed.
I've also heard that the caps yellow as if they aren't PBT. Use the white Acer switch slider as a reference for color.
Confirmed.
Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/adevriesc ... 0267831940
I'll purchase some acetone to test the plastic soon. If it passes the acetone test and turns out to be PBT, it shows conclusively that bromine compounds (or unknown factors) can cause that type of plastic to yellow.
If it isn't PBT, what other plastics could handle the dye sublimation process? I didn't think ABS could survive the temperatures involved.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Cool, so they ARE dyesubbed, right? Just out of curiosity, how did you test it?
Don't bother with the acetone test. I've tested it on my KB-101A as well as on several 6300 and 6500 models. Definitely all ABS.
Don't bother with the acetone test. I've tested it on my KB-101A as well as on several 6300 and 6500 models. Definitely all ABS.
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
They are most definitely dyesubbed. I paid $5 for it, so (in the name of keyboard knowledge) I could slice a key in half and confirm the dyesub definitively with photographs.
- gogusrl
- Location: Romania
- Main keyboard: Cherry G80-1851
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: linear stuff
- DT Pro Member: -
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I know! I did the exact same thing. If they're pad prints I'll eat my boots... But there's always that nagging doubt.
That settles it. I'm cutting one open when I get home.
That settles it. I'm cutting one open when I get home.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Sorry, I misread that at first, I thought you HAD sliced one in half and confirmed it yet.
Anyway, I have hundreds of these caps, I find Acers every goddamn week. So here's one I killed from a 6312-TW:


You know what? I'm STILL not sure.
Don't know how deep this dye sublimation is supposed to go, but the cap is viewed from behind so you shouldn't be able to see pad printing, and the darkened lines definitely reach into the material around 0,25 mm deep. Which would lead me to believe it's dye-sublimed, or at least not pad-printed. But when viewed from the top, the letters just look different from the rest of the cap, and I can't see that sort of effect on any of my other PBT caps. If anything, the caps look more like they're lasered or something.
I'm confused as hell.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
The penetration into the cap is a good solid sign of dye sublimation. Even the deepest dyesub doesn't have to go all the way through the plastic. It's not built up from behind, like doubleshot!
A better picture of the top of the cap would be good. The one you have there looks like a dodgy exposure. Or is the legend really that inconsistent around the line?
A better picture of the top of the cap would be good. The one you have there looks like a dodgy exposure. Or is the legend really that inconsistent around the line?
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
It is either inconsistent, or a highlight top right, which would indicate a raised surface.
Are we sure they aren't lasered? Which does penetrate the cap a little bit.
Are we sure they aren't lasered? Which does penetrate the cap a little bit.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm not sure "inconsistent" is the right word. It just appears to be a different texture than the rest of the cap.Muirium wrote: The penetration into the cap is a good solid sign of dye sublimation. Even the deepest dyesub doesn't have to go all the way through the plastic. It's not built up from behind, like doubleshot!
A better picture of the top of the cap would be good. The one you have there looks like a dodgy exposure. Or is the legend really that inconsistent around the line?
I thought of something else; cut a thin slice off. This should reveal only white plastic if it's pad-printed, and a hollow slice if it's lasered. But it's definitely coloured plastic on top and below!

- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Lasering shouldn't affect any great depth of plastic. (Think microns more than full fractions of a millimetre.) The cross section looks dyesub to me. Perhaps shitey quality, but the right method all the same!
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
That is exactly what mine are not: they are totally indistinguishable from the beige plastic besides the colour. The legends are a perfect continuation of the beige plastic, with no step or change in texture or reflectivity. That is, if you point the keyboard towards a bright light, the legends reflect the light in exactly the same way. Surface ink normally reflects light to a different extent.
Your photos look like laser charring, because your legends seem to be a greyish tone typical of that process. Some later Acer keyboards did use laser charring which is what yours seem to be, and the charring could in theory extend below the surface of the keycap. Laser charring does create quite a rough surface. You'd have to take some other beige lasered keycaps and cut those open — although now you've left the UK you may not have yet regained access to a ready supply of cheap keyboards to sacrifice.
The legends on my 6312-TW 4U are pure jet black, totally smooth, and curiously they exhibit artefacts suggesting a flat sheet was used to apply them, and that liquid ink was used. Some of the legends are subtly warped as though the definition sheet wasn't quite straight (suggesting dye sub or silkscreen), and there are runs and feathering like you get with inkjet ink on rough paper. Most of the legends though have perfectly straight edges.
You can see the feathering here:

The feathering and warping seems to rule out laser, but the yellowing of the plastic implies ABS and thus rules out dye sublimation.
My keyboard is completely screwed now, so maybe I should send off the keycaps for examination and bin the rest.



