Price Check: How much is my _____ worth?
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Various Cherry Corp keyboards
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder (1st gen)
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black (55g springs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
If nobody responds, it might be worth pming 002. He knows more about topre boards than anyone I know.chiptea wrote: ↑Hi!
How much do you think a Nissho KB106DE in fair condition would be worth?
How about an Epson Business Full? I'm getting both, but I'd just like to know how much I should spend
- 002
- Topre Enthusiast
- Location: Australia
- Main keyboard: Realforce & Libertouch
- Main mouse: Logitech G Pro Wireless
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0002
User 'oki_sys' has been selling NISSHO KB106DE's on Yahoo Auctions one by one for about 6 months now. Average price looks to be around the 8000 yen mark.
The Epson BFKB is a bit harder to guess as they only pop up from time to time. A junky used one sold for 17,000 yen back in August. Mine is brand new and it was a lot more than 17,000
The Epson BFKB is a bit harder to guess as they only pop up from time to time. A junky used one sold for 17,000 yen back in August. Mine is brand new and it was a lot more than 17,000
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- Location: Poland
- Main keyboard: QF TK Green/G80-0777/Ergoplus
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: MX Green/Capacitive BS
- DT Pro Member: -
This is going to be very innacurate one. A custom 40% keyboard with MX Clears, Tai Hao doubleshots and a decent oak casing? Also cables instead of PCB and aluminium CNC-cut plate. And about same 60%.
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- Location: Poland
- Main keyboard: QF TK Green/G80-0777/Ergoplus
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: MX Green/Capacitive BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Right now it's just a concept. There are going to be about 5 keyboards in the "first wave" if this works out. And specs.. ANSI US layout, NKRO, MX Clears and doubleshots with color of choice. Working via Teensy 2.0. Case isn't ready yet, but it will propably be either wooden one with build-in wrist-rest(customer's choice) or aluminium-acryl "sandwich" with no wrist-rest. Not bigger than it has to be.gogusrl wrote: ↑You need to explain yourself better. How many keyboards and what are yhe specs for each one.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Surely more if you have the Esc cap which is missing on the pics.
The switch itself, a vintage MY (not MX!) switch, should be very easy to repair.
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
These are really rare, I guess it very much depends on whether you find someone willing to pay a lot for a Portuguese one (is it?). Can be almost anything from 40 to 200 € I guess. More if you find the Esc cap.
- guk
- 1896 Vintage Reds
- Location: Hannover, Germany
- Main keyboard: SSK,Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
And F1.kbdfr wrote: ↑Surely more if you have the Esc cap which is missing on the pics.
The switch itself, a vintage MY (not MX!) switch, should be very easy to repair.
- rddm
- Location: Porto, Portugal
- DT Pro Member: -
@halvar @kdbfr
I bought this keyboard last weekend and a lot of people are trying to buy it. Yes, is ISO-PT Layout. Esc, F1 key are missing. 5 and 6 key from numpad are damaged. Yes I will repair the switch, just trying to find him on Europe because I pay 10€ just to ship them from US.
I bought this keyboard last weekend and a lot of people are trying to buy it. Yes, is ISO-PT Layout. Esc, F1 key are missing. 5 and 6 key from numpad are damaged. Yes I will repair the switch, just trying to find him on Europe because I pay 10€ just to ship them from US.
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
I honestly wouldn't bother trying to fix the board; it's a nicer old MY board, but its still an MY board which aren't all that great. The caps are the main event here, sell them by themselves and save some money on shipping .
As for a price, I'll leave it up to our Portuguese community to comment.
As for a price, I'll leave it up to our Portuguese community to comment.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Those vintage MY switches are completely different from the newer version, and actually quite nice to type on.
In addition, the board itself (with the original label on the back and the blue LED sticker) is certainly appealing to collectors.
In addition, the board itself (with the original label on the back and the blue LED sticker) is certainly appealing to collectors.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
I can send you a replacement slider (+spring). All you’ll have to do is to push it into place.rddm wrote: ↑[…] Yes I will repair the switch, just trying to find him on Europe because I pay 10€ just to ship them from US.
Of course the switch casing must be intact for that, it’s easy to check by inserting the slider from another switch.
To remove the slider, insert paper clips into both side recesses and push inward, the slider will come up.
Beware, there’s an absolutely tiny spring beneath, the sort you never find again when lost
By the way, the slider can only be inserted if properly oriented.
(A shame vintage MY switches are not documented yet in the wiki. )
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Really? How do they compare to normal MX blacks, woul you say? Also, from what age are MYs vintage, roughly?kbdfr wrote: ↑Those vintage MY switches are completely different from the newer version, and actually quite nice to type on.
- guk
- 1896 Vintage Reds
- Location: Hannover, Germany
- Main keyboard: SSK,Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Can't really compare them because the force curve is completely different. But they certainly feel lighter and smoother than modern MY switches. Think they started moderninzing them around the same time as MX. Basically it comes down to "more slider better feel" imho.
Chyros, I can send you the guts of a G81-3000 with the old MY, you'd need to put caps on it and attach a cable though.
Chyros, I can send you the guts of a G81-3000 with the old MY, you'd need to put caps on it and attach a cable though.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah sure, if you can spare it . I can probably wire up a cable (I have lots of spares from all kinds of boards) and I sure as hell have enough MY caps xD . I can make a comparison video with the new ones!guk wrote: ↑Can't really compare them because the force curve is completely different. But they certainly feel lighter and smoother than modern MY switches. Think they started moderninzing them around the same time as MX. Basically it comes down to "more slider better feel" imho.
Chyros, I can send you the guts of a G81-3000 with the old MY, you'd need to put caps on it and attach a cable though.
Check out my Cherry MY review if you haven't yet, btw .
- shreebles
- Finally 60%
- Location: Cologne, Germany
- Main keyboard: FaceW 45g Silent Red /NerD60 MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech G303 / GPro (home) MX Anywhere 2 (work)
- Favorite switch: Silent Red, Old Browns, Buckling Spring,
- DT Pro Member: 0094
I also have an old G81, but with a case and cable that you can have. See my thread:Chyros wrote: ↑Yeah sure, if you can spare it . I can probably wire up a cable (I have lots of spares from all kinds of boards) and I sure as hell have enough MY caps xD .guk wrote: ↑ Chyros, I can send you the guts of a G81-3000 with the old MY, you'd need to put caps on it and attach a cable though.
http://deskthority.net/want-to-trade-f5 ... 10913.html
- gogusrl
- Location: Romania
- Main keyboard: Cherry G80-1851
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: linear stuff
- DT Pro Member: -
I know the model with the 1.25 Esc, it's pretty high quality pad printed pbt. I had one with ISO Nordic that looked amazing, had a really hard time figuring out if it's dyesubbed or pad printed.
- Scottex
- Location: Spain, Madrid
- Main keyboard: Realforce 55g TKL
- Main mouse: Logitech G500
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
The seller just contacted me with pics of the switch, BTC tactile provided via rubberdome.Chyros wrote: ↑It looks just like the BTC 5339R-0 I just reviewed xD .
The rubber looks like high quality, and in the worst scenario (rotten foam) the keycaps are MX compatible
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
If the rubber turns out to be shit, just grab some rubber sleeves from a Mitsumi, they work quite well and are very common. Try it out, see what you think of it!
- Scottex
- Location: Spain, Madrid
- Main keyboard: Realforce 55g TKL
- Main mouse: Logitech G500
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
This seller it's also selling a Mitsumi with rubber sleevesChyros wrote: ↑If the rubber turns out to be shit, just grab some rubber sleeves from a Mitsumi, they work quite well and are very common. Try it out, see what you think of it!
Thanks for the tip, i'll try it out