Great/Interesting Finds
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
uhm.. they could be clones? I see.. no writing on the switch indeed.. not sure.
By the way why do some caps become yellowish on some keyboards while the cap next to it stays perfectly white, etc.? Really can't be that the sun or air makes the yellowing of the caps so different, isn't it?
tent
PS: sorry tonight I'm in <100 questions mode on>
By the way why do some caps become yellowish on some keyboards while the cap next to it stays perfectly white, etc.? Really can't be that the sun or air makes the yellowing of the caps so different, isn't it?
tent
PS: sorry tonight I'm in <100 questions mode on>
- Khronokrator
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Omnikey Ultra T
- Main mouse: Logitech Proteus
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I think those might indeed be the genuine article, as I seem to recall something from the wiki saying that Blue Alps aren't strictly always labeled. See here: wiki/File:Alps_SKCM_blue_complicated.jpg
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
It's hard to say, I can't read the lettering. The shade of blue looks quite unlike that of blue Alps (more like Type III clones) but cameras are very bad at picking up its weird colour, I've found.
Anyway, that's a 6151, right? AFAIK these didn't come with Type IIIs, so could very well be genuine Alps.
Best way to know for sure is to take the top shell off (no need to desolder). That should tell you everything you need to know.
Anyway, that's a 6151, right? AFAIK these didn't come with Type IIIs, so could very well be genuine Alps.
Best way to know for sure is to take the top shell off (no need to desolder). That should tell you everything you need to know.
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I think it's the white balance making the slider look weird. I'd give that a 90% chance of being Blue Alps because of the "texture" of the color.
The true blue has always looked powdery to me, whereas the clone blues always look solid.
(Edit:) Here is the auction: http://www.ebay.de/itm/KB6151-AT-XT-Key ... 1918995656
95% confidence they're real Blue Alps after seeing the board.
The true blue has always looked powdery to me, whereas the clone blues always look solid.
(Edit:) Here is the auction: http://www.ebay.de/itm/KB6151-AT-XT-Key ... 1918995656
95% confidence they're real Blue Alps after seeing the board.
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
Bromine is used as a fire retardant in ABS plastic. Early bromine compounds were somewhat unstable. When exposed to UV radiation (read: sunlight) the unstable bromine undergoes a sort of chemical reaction that frees up its atoms, sometimes in areas that weren't directly exposed to UV light. The telltale color of that reaction is... YELLOW!tentator wrote: ↑ By the way why do some caps become yellowish on some keyboards while the cap next to it stays perfectly white, etc.? Really can't be that the sun or air makes the yellowing of the caps so different, isn't it?
Different batches of plastic from the same company may have had more or less stable bromine, which led to differently yellowed keycaps and case bits.
-
- Location: NC, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0117
So they didn't use Bromine based fire retardants in PBT? The Bromine theory seems flawed. I can't find any scientific backing for it. Everything I can find referring Bromine as the cause of yellowing seems to be regurgitating what was written on the Retr0Bright site. Furthermore, on that page, the author clearly states its just a theory. I'm not a chemist, so I may be talking out of my ass, but the skeptic in me says not so quick.ohaimark wrote: ↑Bromine is used as a fire retardant in ABS plastic. Early bromine compounds were somewhat unstable. When exposed to UV radiation (read: sunlight) the unstable bromine undergoes a sort of chemical reaction that frees up its atoms, sometimes in areas that weren't directly exposed to UV light. The telltale color of that reaction is... YELLOW!tentator wrote: ↑ By the way why do some caps become yellowish on some keyboards while the cap next to it stays perfectly white, etc.? Really can't be that the sun or air makes the yellowing of the caps so different, isn't it?
Different batches of plastic from the same company may have had more or less stable bromine, which led to differently yellowed keycaps and case bits.
Queue Chyros...
Last edited by Engicoder on 29 Jan 2016, 04:27, edited 4 times in total.
- Khronokrator
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Omnikey Ultra T
- Main mouse: Logitech Proteus
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
The yellowing on that keyboard is pretty awful, TBH. I'd be more interested in harvesting its switches for one of my other, much nicer Alps boards.
But given it's likely Blue Alps, which are VERY in demand right now... I expect it to get quite expensive by the end of the auction.
But given it's likely Blue Alps, which are VERY in demand right now... I expect it to get quite expensive by the end of the auction.
- Jimmy54669
- Location: Germany / Muenster
- Main keyboard: GK61 / DX60 case / Quefrency left as gamepad
- Main mouse: Logitech G305
- Favorite switch: Navy Box / Gateron Ink
- DT Pro Member: -
http://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anze ... 8-225-8277 Someone from Germany lives in Baindt ? only 20€ for a Model M
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
Well, I'm parroting. Time to do some research.
"Tetrabromobisphenol A is also used as an additive in acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)."
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brominate ... _retardant
So we know it's in there.
However, the industry *knows* there are issues with UV stability in brominated plastics.
Next on the list is a document from ICL Industrial products. Admittedly, this is a PBT datasheet.
"FR-1410 (decabromodiphenyl ethane - 82% bromine) is cost efficient in
PBT but has limited UV stability and is not melt blendable during injection
molding."
Source: http://icl-ip.com/wp-content/uploads/20 ... 130729.pdf
The datasheet and article lead me to believe that less bromine strongly correlates with greater UV stability and weathering endurance, though the plastic itself can also be a large factor.
"The plastics most commonly used to make the structural cases for electronic equipment are polypropylene, impact styrene, and ABS," replied Deanin. "These all tend to discolor and embrittle gradually when exposed to UV and/or heat. They become oxidized and develop conjugated unsaturation, which produces color. They crosslink or degrade, which causes brittleness."
Source: Article where a guy actually talked with an expert -- http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189
SNES Systems, according to a Nintendo official reply, yellowed due to fire retardants.
"Deanin weighed in on the flame retardant issue only by saying that most retardants are harmless, but certain "aliphatic bromine compounds" are unstable to heat and UV, and should be avoided. Flame retardants unstable to heat! How ironic."
PBT had bromines added to it -- the explanation for the long term color difference likely lies in the different manufacturing processes or chemical makeups of the plastics. ABS is known for being "weak" to UV light, meaning it could break down and release bromine compounds for reaction much faster than PBT.
My conclusion is that ABS plastic, when coupled with bromine, is the perfect storm for yellowing. Oxidation is likely the primary yellowing factor, but it seems that bromine fire retardants act as an accelerant in the process. I don't know if the yellow color of bromine is part of the extreme yellowing shown in ABS, but I think it could be a contributing factor due to the breakdown of the plastic and the reactivity of bromine (which is off the charts).
"Tetrabromobisphenol A is also used as an additive in acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)."
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brominate ... _retardant
So we know it's in there.
However, the industry *knows* there are issues with UV stability in brominated plastics.
Next on the list is a document from ICL Industrial products. Admittedly, this is a PBT datasheet.
"FR-1410 (decabromodiphenyl ethane - 82% bromine) is cost efficient in
PBT but has limited UV stability and is not melt blendable during injection
molding."
Source: http://icl-ip.com/wp-content/uploads/20 ... 130729.pdf
The datasheet and article lead me to believe that less bromine strongly correlates with greater UV stability and weathering endurance, though the plastic itself can also be a large factor.
"The plastics most commonly used to make the structural cases for electronic equipment are polypropylene, impact styrene, and ABS," replied Deanin. "These all tend to discolor and embrittle gradually when exposed to UV and/or heat. They become oxidized and develop conjugated unsaturation, which produces color. They crosslink or degrade, which causes brittleness."
Source: Article where a guy actually talked with an expert -- http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189
SNES Systems, according to a Nintendo official reply, yellowed due to fire retardants.
"Deanin weighed in on the flame retardant issue only by saying that most retardants are harmless, but certain "aliphatic bromine compounds" are unstable to heat and UV, and should be avoided. Flame retardants unstable to heat! How ironic."
PBT had bromines added to it -- the explanation for the long term color difference likely lies in the different manufacturing processes or chemical makeups of the plastics. ABS is known for being "weak" to UV light, meaning it could break down and release bromine compounds for reaction much faster than PBT.
My conclusion is that ABS plastic, when coupled with bromine, is the perfect storm for yellowing. Oxidation is likely the primary yellowing factor, but it seems that bromine fire retardants act as an accelerant in the process. I don't know if the yellow color of bromine is part of the extreme yellowing shown in ABS, but I think it could be a contributing factor due to the breakdown of the plastic and the reactivity of bromine (which is off the charts).
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
I'm 95% sure those are Blue Alps SKCM.
- derzemel
- Location: Bucharest, Romania
- Main keyboard: FC660C, SSK, TX-1800 Nixie
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 7000
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCL/SKCM tactile
G80-2551HAD. Very good looking:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Cherry-G802551-H ... 1886082596
Expensive NEXT non-ADB:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/NeXT-keyboard-no ... 1456910227
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Cherry-G802551-H ... 1886082596
Expensive NEXT non-ADB:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/NeXT-keyboard-no ... 1456910227
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
exactly.. quote that....Khronokrator wrote: ↑The yellowing on that keyboard is pretty awful, TBH. I'd be more interested in harvesting its switches for one of my other, much nicer Alps boards.
But given it's likely Blue Alps, which are VERY in demand right now... I expect it to get quite expensive by the end of the auction.
- gogusrl
- Location: Romania
- Main keyboard: Cherry G80-1851
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: linear stuff
- DT Pro Member: -
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
I'd say lasered just by looking at the Print Screen key, I think it would be pretty tricky to doubleshot that. Also it says that they are engraved in the blurb on that page.
Pretty cool though.
Pretty cool though.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh dear not the bromine story again xD . Where is it that people got the idea from that bromine creeps through their keyboards or something???Engicoder wrote: ↑ Queue Chyros...
- E3E
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Blue, Neon Green, Striped Amber, Cream Alps, Topre
- Main mouse: Logitech, Topre
- Favorite switch: Alps, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes, these are indeed genuine. That 'B' you mention is indeed indicative of the typical markings you'd see on a true blue Alps switch.tentator wrote: ↑and (since I'm at it.. I mean learning) this one should be with beloved and rare blue alps or am I wrong?
Ahh, this board you show here was my first Alps board and consequently, my first blue Alps board, haha.
Be gentle with her if you buy her! D:
Considering that blue Alps tend to look more vivid in photos than they do in real life without proper white balance, I would imagine that these are not clones.
-
- Location: Sundsvall, Sweden
- Main keyboard: SUH 105DA W39-463
- Main mouse: AeroCool Templarius Gladiator
- Favorite switch: Dont know (yet)
- DT Pro Member: -
Its probably overpriced but isn't that some dolch variation on the right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-Misc-A ... SwoydWmphV
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-Misc-A ... SwoydWmphV
- copter
- Last Man Standing
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2 TKL, CM Rapid-I
- Main mouse: SS Rival 100, Corsair M45
- Favorite switch: MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0089
Gray one looks like it's from some old portable computer, not sure from which model tho. Layout doesn't match Goupil, which I first suspected.Jimi14 wrote: ↑Its probably overpriced but isn't that some dolch variation on the right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-Misc-A ... SwoydWmphV
- elRetto
- Location: Monaco di Baviera - Germany
- Main keyboard: 87UW/ssk
- Main mouse: slimblade
- DT Pro Member: 0107
I have one of those "Dolch" boards. mine is mx blue and has horrible pad printingJimi14 wrote: ↑Its probably overpriced but isn't that some dolch variation on the right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-Misc-A ... SwoydWmphV
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
Let's number them 1-4 and 5, 1 being nearest on the left and 4 being the farthest away. 5 is the Dolch.Jimi14 wrote: ↑Its probably overpriced but isn't that some dolch variation on the right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-Misc-A ... SwoydWmphV
1 is gross -- Keytronic. 2 I can't ID casually. 3's LED location tells me it probably isn't Alps. 4 is Keytronic (ick). Unless you're willing to risk it for 2 and 5, don't buy the bundle.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Yes I'd also say these are real Alps SKCM blue although that slider looks very bright blue but that might be the lousy picture. I bet this will go $$$ high dispite the heavy yellowing.
wiki/Alps_SKCM_Blue
wiki/NTC_KB-6151
keyboards-f2/ntc-kb-6151n-at-xt-t8456.html?hilit=ntc
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
Nice M0110 in Canada with 2 days to go and insane shipping to EU
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252265421199
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252265421199
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Something I've learned over here is that most foreign shipping is insane, even just to Canada!
Anyway, nice box. Here's one that actually stayed inside it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vintage-App ... 1386052451
Maybe a little Elliptical, just a bit!
Anyway, nice box. Here's one that actually stayed inside it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vintage-App ... 1386052451
Maybe a little Elliptical, just a bit!
- bazh
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
in the relate list there's M0110 keycaps sets too
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Apple-Maci ... 2265421199
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Apple-Maci ... 2265421199
- snuci
- Vintage computer guy
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- DT Pro Member: 0131
- Contact:
I already have a few M0110s right now with one in box (that go with the appropriate Macintoshes) but I may be able to use another in box. I've been eyeing that auction and the other auctions from this seller.chzel wrote: ↑Nice M0110 in Canada with 2 days to go and insane shipping to EU
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252265421199
About the crazy shipping... now you guys know what I deal with except I buy heavy things
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: IBM Bigfoot + Arduino
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Model F buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -