Anyone recognize this keyswitch? Or possibly someone knows of a drop-in replacement.
I'm trying to repair the keyboard on a Fluke 9010a (a 1980s CPU troubleshooter), and this locking spring on this switch isn't working correctly. The switch works fine, but it should toggle between open/closed when depressed, and this mechanism is the problem.
The part number is stamped on the side, but that's the Fluke internal p/n. I'm hoping these were bought from another supplier and assigned a part number, rather than manufactured by Fluke, since that would greatly increase my chances of finding a replacement.
ID this keyswitch
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- Location: Portland, OR
- Main keyboard: Ergodox Classic Fullhand
- DT Pro Member: -
- Attachments
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- klikkyklik
- Location: America
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omni Key/102 w/Blue Alps
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Welcome!
I'm clueless on the switch type, but am interested. I dug through the Wiki but didn't find anything really close (that doesn't mean I couldn't have missed it). The only result of the time spent was a yearning for greater search abilities, but that can't happen without a database.
I can see why you'd want to fix that Fluke unit up - they're not cheap!
Is it possible to open that switch up without damage?
Out of curiosity, what do the other keyswitches feel like? Mushy / tactile / clicky?
I'm clueless on the switch type, but am interested. I dug through the Wiki but didn't find anything really close (that doesn't mean I couldn't have missed it). The only result of the time spent was a yearning for greater search abilities, but that can't happen without a database.
I can see why you'd want to fix that Fluke unit up - they're not cheap!
Is it possible to open that switch up without damage?
Out of curiosity, what do the other keyswitches feel like? Mushy / tactile / clicky?
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I haven't seen it before, in the wiki or elsewhere. It reminds me of certain brands of reed switch, but the spacing of the solder legs seems off. Good luck.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I wonder what the little arm at the front/rear/side is Oo . If they're easy to open, could you show the insides? Might give a clue as to who made it maybe.
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- Location: Portland, OR
- Main keyboard: Ergodox Classic Fullhand
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for the replies.
The switches are linear with no click, except for a thwack when they bottom out. They feel a lot like Cherry MX Browns, but maybe a little stiffer.
The spring arm and clear plastic part on the side are the push-push locking mechanism, which is what's broken with this switch. The keyswitch works fine, but the key doesn't stay locked on when depressed. The spring is moulded into the plunger, and would be immobilized by the plastic if it was working correctly. The bond between the spring and plastic has worn and broken, leaving the spring flopping around instead of locking like it should. There are two push-push keys on this machine, and both have the same problem.
Since it looks like replacement isn't an option, I may see if I can use epoxy to get the spring immobile, then tweak the angle so it springs correctly again.
The switches are linear with no click, except for a thwack when they bottom out. They feel a lot like Cherry MX Browns, but maybe a little stiffer.
The spring arm and clear plastic part on the side are the push-push locking mechanism, which is what's broken with this switch. The keyswitch works fine, but the key doesn't stay locked on when depressed. The spring is moulded into the plunger, and would be immobilized by the plastic if it was working correctly. The bond between the spring and plastic has worn and broken, leaving the spring flopping around instead of locking like it should. There are two push-push keys on this machine, and both have the same problem.
Since it looks like replacement isn't an option, I may see if I can use epoxy to get the spring immobile, then tweak the angle so it springs correctly again.
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- Location: Portland, OR
- Main keyboard: Ergodox Classic Fullhand
- DT Pro Member: -
Adding, I looked to see if I could take the switch apart, but came to the same conclusion as ohaimark. The top/bottom are secured with plastic rivets, and I suspect disassembly would ruin the switch. Since I'd rather have a partly working switch than a totally broken one, I don't think I'm going to do that.
- snuci
- Vintage computer guy
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- DT Pro Member: 0131
- Contact:
I have Datanetics switches on my Volker Craig terminal that have a metal spring arm that is for the locking key switches. Have a look at the bottom pics in this thread. The switches are not the same Datanetics switches but they have similar looking metal locking arms.