[Closed] Hypersphere's Topre Damping Rings - Europe GB - Shipping Now
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I hope to shoot the videos in a week or two. Very busy at the moment. And my desk is covered by all this stuff I brought over from America for some reason. Huh…?
post287339.html#p287339
post287339.html#p287339
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- Main keyboard: novatouch
- Main mouse: ?
- Favorite switch: ?
- DT Pro Member: -
My package also arrived today (Germany). Thanks for doing this and giving us europeans a chance to get our hands on those gloious silencing rings!
On a side note: Does anyone have some additional information on the Novatouch capslock LED mod?
All I could find was from you, Muirium: 3 mm (?) LED and 30A/200 ohm SMD resistor on R14 for a blue LED.
(Found here: review-f45/a-tale-of-two-switches-the-c ... t8968.html )
Any input would be apreciated!
On a side note: Does anyone have some additional information on the Novatouch capslock LED mod?
All I could find was from you, Muirium: 3 mm (?) LED and 30A/200 ohm SMD resistor on R14 for a blue LED.
(Found here: review-f45/a-tale-of-two-switches-the-c ... t8968.html )
Any input would be apreciated!
Last edited by notarandomname on 23 Feb 2016, 13:59, edited 1 time in total.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
As far as I'm aware, my modded NovaTouch is the only one. I nabbed the LED from my other (prototype) NovaTouch, and my SMD savvy brother provided the resistor, matched against those in the prototype.
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- Main keyboard: novatouch
- Main mouse: ?
- Favorite switch: ?
- DT Pro Member: -
oh well, I guess I will have to look into it ... sometime . Thanks for the info.
- Shinryuu
- Location: Finland
- Main keyboard: F62, HHKB2 Type-S, IBM M SSK
- Main mouse: Logitech Wireless (Modded)
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Woohoo, they came!
EDIT1. Oh boy.. took a few hours to complete this thing with cleaning. I'm not sure do I even need to lube these because these feel pretty damn good. I'll fiddle with lubing later if I ever need to use it for these
EDIT1. Oh boy.. took a few hours to complete this thing with cleaning. I'm not sure do I even need to lube these because these feel pretty damn good. I'll fiddle with lubing later if I ever need to use it for these
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
I've gotten my best results silencing Topre-switch keyboards by lubing all the stabilizers and switches in addition to installing Silencing Rings. For the switches, I lube only the slider rails -- not the cylindrical sliders themselves. Most recently, I used Superlube 51010 oil. However, I am considering switching to Krytox, but I need to learn more about the various viscosity versions of Krytox.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Are the pads still on the PCB then ? So i could just order up some components and add them back ?Muirium wrote: ↑As far as I'm aware, my modded NovaTouch is the only one. I nabbed the LED from my other (prototype) NovaTouch, and my SMD savvy brother provided the resistor, matched against those in the prototype.
Also , any news on shipping the AEK ?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Good stuff.
I'm doing everything in size order. Rings without caps went out first. I'm working through the Unicomp stuff now. And the full keyboard brigade needs to wait until I score some boxes. Had to bring 'em back bare, but for bubblewrap. Barely enough luggage space!
I'm doing everything in size order. Rings without caps went out first. I'm working through the Unicomp stuff now. And the full keyboard brigade needs to wait until I score some boxes. Had to bring 'em back bare, but for bubblewrap. Barely enough luggage space!
- Burt Macklin
- Location: Croatia
- Main keyboard: Filco Ninja
- Main mouse: Logitech G602; Wacom Bamboo
- Favorite switch: MX brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Mine arrived as well - thanks!
It's funny how tiny those things actually are
It's funny how tiny those things actually are
- jou
- Location: Switzerland
- Main keyboard: Ergodox
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Trackpad
- Favorite switch: Not sure yet
- DT Pro Member: -
Installed them in my HHKB yesterday evening and still need to get used to the new sound. It's so weird that my typing sound isn't the loudest in the office
While I had the thing open, I also lubricated the sliders. Is there some trick to reassemble a Topre board without going crazy? I needed something like three tries to get thing back together with all keys working…
While I had the thing open, I also lubricated the sliders. Is there some trick to reassemble a Topre board without going crazy? I needed something like three tries to get thing back together with all keys working…
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
If you are lucky, the domes and conical springs stick to the PCB so that you can carefully put the PCB assembly back on top of the case/slider assembly without having to place the domes and springs individually. To do this, I mount the inverted case between two supports so that the sliders do not touch the bench. I secure the case by the edges with strips of double-sided adhesive foam tape on the supports to keep the case from sliding off the supports.
If you are not so lucky and the domes detach from the PCB, you need to place the domes into the base of the sliders, again by inverting the case between two supports so that the sliders do not touch the bench. Be sure that each dome is properly seated and then carefully place each spring so that it is nested into each dome. Gentle tapping with a finger can coax the spring into place. Check to be sure that all the domes and springs are fully seated and then carefully lower the PCB into place. Check that the screw holes are aligned before allowing the PCB to touch the backs of the domes and springs. Then carefully replace the screws working opposite ends of the PCB and only partially tightening at first to ensure that everything is aligned. Finally, tighten all the screws. Then, flip the assembly over and test each slider to be sure it feels right before putting everything back into the case. Before putting on the keycaps, plug the keyboard into a computer and test each key. If all the keys are registering properly, you are good to go. Replace the caps and enjoy your silenced keyboard.
Sometimes if things aren't aligned properly, you will get one ore more wonky keys. You then need to reverse steps to be sure that all the domes and springs are seated before closing up the board.
If you are not so lucky and the domes detach from the PCB, you need to place the domes into the base of the sliders, again by inverting the case between two supports so that the sliders do not touch the bench. Be sure that each dome is properly seated and then carefully place each spring so that it is nested into each dome. Gentle tapping with a finger can coax the spring into place. Check to be sure that all the domes and springs are fully seated and then carefully lower the PCB into place. Check that the screw holes are aligned before allowing the PCB to touch the backs of the domes and springs. Then carefully replace the screws working opposite ends of the PCB and only partially tightening at first to ensure that everything is aligned. Finally, tighten all the screws. Then, flip the assembly over and test each slider to be sure it feels right before putting everything back into the case. Before putting on the keycaps, plug the keyboard into a computer and test each key. If all the keys are registering properly, you are good to go. Replace the caps and enjoy your silenced keyboard.
Sometimes if things aren't aligned properly, you will get one ore more wonky keys. You then need to reverse steps to be sure that all the domes and springs are seated before closing up the board.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Shipping delayed this weekend:
group-buys-f50/europe-unicomp-gb-shippi ... ml#p289793
Instead of boxes, I should have got a skip!
group-buys-f50/europe-unicomp-gb-shippi ... ml#p289793
Instead of boxes, I should have got a skip!
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
FUCK. Fuck fucking fuck fuck F*U*C*K!
You're the second one now. I may have fucked up the whole Unicomp order. Only time, and a massive cleanup that's still only partly done, will tell.
Fuck!
You're the second one now. I may have fucked up the whole Unicomp order. Only time, and a massive cleanup that's still only partly done, will tell.
Fuck!
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Krytox 205 is a grease. It would be much too thick (extremely high viscosity) to use on slider rails. I recommend using a an oil instead. I got good results with Superlube 51010 oil. However, Superlube is a complex mixture of synthetic oil, mineral oil, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, and undisclosed additives. Given that Krytox oils contain only perfluoropolyethers, I think they would be more stable. Krytox oil comes in a variety of viscosity grades, with higher numbers corresponding to higher viscosity. For keyboard sliders, I have seen recommendations for Krytox in the 103 to 107 range, but I have not tested any of these myself as yet.ajx wrote: ↑Did anyone have applied a lubricant Kritox 205 on those rail housing?
It seems to be too thick and might getting a sluggish feeling from sliders?
- Burt Macklin
- Location: Croatia
- Main keyboard: Filco Ninja
- Main mouse: Logitech G602; Wacom Bamboo
- Favorite switch: MX brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Sooo, I remembered I have this bookmarked:
http://imgur.com/gallery/iGzCV
A guy who knows a guy who knows a guy told me this procedure works for HS rings as well - so maybe there's no need for that video? (I know Muirium is busy )
Can someone take a look and confirm?
http://imgur.com/gallery/iGzCV
A guy who knows a guy who knows a guy told me this procedure works for HS rings as well - so maybe there's no need for that video? (I know Muirium is busy )
Can someone take a look and confirm?
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Yes, the guide for putting landing pads in a Novatouch looks okay. However, although it shows opening up the keyboard and pushing out the sliders, it doesn't cover actually putting in the pads/rings. It also doesn't cover lubing, which I have found to be a useful adjunct to the rings for the best overall silencing results. Nevertheless, it is possible to pull together one's own "how to" by doing a bit of Googling.
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- Location: France
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: Topre 45g
- DT Pro Member: -
I eventually put some on those rails and not on slider itself, it actually feels smoother and quieter, on the beginning, i found them a bit mushy but this feeling disappeared overtimeHypersphere wrote: ↑Krytox 205 is a grease. It would be much too thick (extremely high viscosity) to use on slider rails. I recommend using a an oil instead. I got good results with Superlube 51010 oil. However, Superlube is a complex mixture of synthetic oil, mineral oil, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, and undisclosed additives. Given that Krytox oils contain only perfluoropolyethers, I think they would be more stable. Krytox oil comes in a variety of viscosity grades, with higher numbers corresponding to higher viscosity. For keyboard sliders, I have seen recommendations for Krytox in the 103 to 107 range, but I have not tested any of these myself as yet.ajx wrote: ↑Did anyone have applied a lubricant Kritox 205 on those rail housing?
It seems to be too thick and might getting a sluggish feeling from sliders?
Now i am very happy with my HHKB, i used Kritox 205 for spacebar noise, its gone after putting a massive dose
The minor difference with my NT, its due to different keyboard built, NT feels more consistent and firmly on my hands but once lubed, i must say, they are almost equal in feeling in my eyes but i prefer HHKB layout and shape overall, i will keep my HHKB over my NT
Lubing HHKB is needed especially after a silent mod
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- Location: Seville, Spain
- Main keyboard: SSK,Novatouch
- Main mouse: Logitech M510, Slimblade
- Favorite switch: blucking spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Got the rings today. I'm going to wait for a guide before I install them. Thanks mu!