Mechanical pencils
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Pentels are good, but I don't use 0.5mm except for light lines at the drawing table.
0.7mm minimum is my heavy-handed style. I have sent several of the blue 0.7mm ones through the washer and dryer multiple times, over the years, and they have always continued to work properly ( bad idea for neighboring fabric, however).
For serious drawing, at triple the price, the metal Koh-I-Nors with knurled finger grips are the way to go.
0.7mm minimum is my heavy-handed style. I have sent several of the blue 0.7mm ones through the washer and dryer multiple times, over the years, and they have always continued to work properly ( bad idea for neighboring fabric, however).
For serious drawing, at triple the price, the metal Koh-I-Nors with knurled finger grips are the way to go.
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- pencil (2).JPG (464.88 KiB) Viewed 7469 times
- need
- Location: United Kingdom
- DT Pro Member: -
It might be crazy, but I enjoy using 0.3mm for its precision, though leads keeps breaking randomly even on my light-hand.fohat wrote: ↑Pentels are good, but I don't use 0.5mm except for light lines at the drawing table.
0.7mm minimum is my heavy-handed style. I have sent several of the blue 0.7mm ones through the washer and dryer multiple times, over the years, and they have always continued to work properly ( bad idea for neighboring fabric, however).
For serious drawing, at triple the price, the metal Koh-I-Nors with knurled finger grips are the way to go.
0.5mm never seem to break on me
For smaller leads I like to pair up with lighter weighted barrels, as the lead is less likely to break.
I find metal ones rather cold to hold, compared to the "warmth" that wooden ones brings.
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- Location: Colorado, USA
- Main keyboard: IC60 & Infinity Ergodox
- DT Pro Member: -
Those are some fat ole lines you lay down with those beasts!fohat wrote: ↑Pentels are good, but I don't use 0.5mm except for light lines at the drawing table.
0.7mm minimum is my heavy-handed style. I have sent several of the blue 0.7mm ones through the washer and dryer multiple times, over the years, and they have always continued to work properly ( bad idea for neighboring fabric, however).
For serious drawing, at triple the price, the metal Koh-I-Nors with knurled finger grips are the way to go.
I've used Pentel 120 A3 0.3mm mechanical pencils for decades. I tried a GraphGear 1000 thinking it would be sturdier than the A3s due to the retractable end, but the shaft is all plastic and the bloody thing snapped, so back to A3s it is.
Though to be fair when I was in high school I was always getting yelled at by the teachers for "writing too small"
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- Location: Little Red Dot (Singapore)
- Main keyboard: access-is
- Favorite switch: my own
- DT Pro Member: -
Fohat is one beast of a man. 0.9mm?
I have never seen a 0.9mm on sale before. If I had, I would have bought it. 0.5mm always break on me.
I have never seen a 0.9mm on sale before. If I had, I would have bought it. 0.5mm always break on me.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I love mechanical pencils. I honestly don't know why more people don't use them.
I use a cheap Staedtler.
With that a sharpie and my techpen i am set for anything!
I use a cheap Staedtler.
With that a sharpie and my techpen i am set for anything!
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
I'm not a scientist like you Chyros, I do still need the percision every once in a while.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Stylish combo ^^ . I tried using the ridge on bigfoots for pencils but it doesn't work properly for me xD .
That ITT Courier board had a virtual pencil case built into the top, though xD .
That ITT Courier board had a virtual pencil case built into the top, though xD .
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Yeah I remember that, you can fit half your office supplies on there and then some.Chyros wrote: ↑That ITT Courier board had a virtual pencil case built into the top, though xD .
I never actually use it like that, just for the pic.Chyros wrote: ↑Stylish combo ^^ . I tried using the ridge on bigfoots for pencils but it doesn't work properly for me xD .
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
I have three .05 Kuru Togas and a .03 Kuru Toga. I love them, the lead only really ever breaks for me with the .03. I used to only use .07 and .09 since I sometimes write quite heavily when writing quickly.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I love wooden pencils, but if you are using them seriously the maintenance is just too high.
I use red and blue leads, which are more flexible and weaker, so larger sizes are even more important.berserkfan wrote: ↑ Fohat is one beast of a man. 0.9mm?
I have a 3.75 kg keyboard, too.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Slate writing pad.jacobolus wrote: ↑Pencils are crap, unless you’re an artist or something.
Chalk (on a slate blackboard, natch) and pens are the only true writing instruments.
http://www.objectlessons.org/childhood- ... s67/a1016/
( i had one when i was a kid )
But i agree that pens unless you are filling in a form or signing stuff, pencil > pen.
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- Location: Little Red Dot (Singapore)
- Main keyboard: access-is
- Favorite switch: my own
- DT Pro Member: -
fohat wrote: ↑
I use red and blue leads, which are more flexible and weaker, so larger sizes are even more important.
I have a 3.75 kg keyboard, too.
OH darn, you are even more amazing than I thought. I don't see red and blue leads around much in the market.
But your keyboard can't be 3.75kg. You use a Model F-122 with teensy which is 2.75kg, and I know you cut your plate up.
The keyboards that are 3+kg, I'm selling on my thread (and no one is buying). Deko Pinnacle, Grass Valley Metal Casing keyboard. These are the serious monsters that I don't even begin to understand why I wanted to collect, except they looked cool and feel like battleship control stations when I put on my desk.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I am having a lot of trouble finding the colored leads in the larger sizes, particularly the 0.9mm size, these days. I don't use too much of them, but they are getting scarce as fewer and fewer people actually do construction drawings with pencils. I have enough 0.5mm red lead for at least a year, but am very low on blue.
I got on the bathroom scale with and without my F-122, and it weighed 8.25 pounds = 3.75 kg.
The cut plate specimen that I have left certainly weighs more, with top shell on, and probably almost as much with top shell off, because the infills and buttresses that I added are much more massive than the small amount of sheet metal that I removed (since I put most of it back somewhere else). Also, I add as much insulation and padding inside the case as I can. At least 2 of my F-122s have fitted sheets of my 60 mil EPDM at the bottom and it is quite hefty.
I got on the bathroom scale with and without my F-122, and it weighed 8.25 pounds = 3.75 kg.
The cut plate specimen that I have left certainly weighs more, with top shell on, and probably almost as much with top shell off, because the infills and buttresses that I added are much more massive than the small amount of sheet metal that I removed (since I put most of it back somewhere else). Also, I add as much insulation and padding inside the case as I can. At least 2 of my F-122s have fitted sheets of my 60 mil EPDM at the bottom and it is quite hefty.
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- Location: Little Red Dot (Singapore)
- Main keyboard: access-is
- Favorite switch: my own
- DT Pro Member: -
OKAY... no wonder... you did a lot of stuff that I never did. I am a very simply utilitarian kind of person. If it works better it is enough for me. That EPDM mat you were selling last year - just ridiculous. That put you in full industrial category and I bet no geek who buys an Industrial Model M for $1000 will ever use your kind of hardcore padding.fohat wrote: ↑I am having a lot of trouble finding the colored leads in the larger sizes, particularly the 0.9mm size, these days. I don't use too much of them, but they are getting scarce as fewer and fewer people actually do construction drawings with pencils. I have enough 0.5mm red lead for at least a year, but am very low on blue.
I got on the bathroom scale with and without my F-122, and it weighed 8.25 pounds = 3.75 kg.
The cut plate specimen that I have left certainly weighs more, with top shell on, and probably almost as much with top shell off, because the infills and buttresses that I added are much more massive than the small amount of sheet metal that I removed (since I put most of it back somewhere else). Also, I add as much insulation and padding inside the case as I can. At least 2 of my F-122s have fitted sheets of my 60 mil EPDM at the bottom and it is quite hefty.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I really don't understand what this means. My keyboard mats (still for sale, and I got a new supply of surplus material a couple of weeks ago) are hardly ridiculous - everyone who has bought one has sent me a glowing report and recommendation. I am lucky to have the luxury of enough pieces to line the bottom interiors of some of my favorite keyboards.berserkfan wrote: ↑
That EPDM mat you were selling last year - just ridiculous. That put you in full industrial category and I bet no geek who buys an Industrial Model M for $1000 will ever use your kind of hardcore padding.
But I agree that anyone paying a super-premium price for a collectible keyboard is not likely to want to alter it.
A stock cable probably weighs nearly half a kilogram on its own!
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I didn't even weight it with the cable xD . But yeah, those are super heavy xD .fohat wrote: ↑I really don't understand what this means. My keyboard mats (still for sale, and I got a new supply of surplus material a couple of weeks ago) are hardly ridiculous - everyone who has bought one has sent me a glowing report and recommendation. I am lucky to have the luxury of enough pieces to line the bottom interiors of some of my favorite keyboards.berserkfan wrote: ↑
That EPDM mat you were selling last year - just ridiculous. That put you in full industrial category and I bet no geek who buys an Industrial Model M for $1000 will ever use your kind of hardcore padding.
But I agree that anyone paying a super-premium price for a collectible keyboard is not likely to want to alter it.
A stock cable probably weighs nearly half a kilogram on its own!
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
Does that Grass Valley you mentioned have the video editing keys?
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- Location: North East Italy
- Main keyboard: Ducky Zero
- Main mouse: Logitech MX310
- Favorite switch: still deciding...
- DT Pro Member: -
- Khers
- ⧓
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: LZ CLSh
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Ergo
- Favorite switch: Buckling Springs | Topre | Nixdorf Black
- DT Pro Member: 0087
I've been using a bunch of Pentel GraphGear 500s (I've got one of each 0.3, 0.5 and 0.7 mm) since when I started my university studies. It was the best pen I could find in the university paper shop, so I just went with it and it stuck with me. Pretty nice, despite the upper part being plastic.