How to use a Pro Micro as a cheap controller/converter
- need
- Location: United Kingdom
- DT Pro Member: -
I am trying to flash it by putting in the command:
& 'C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin\avrdude.exe' -C 'C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin\avrdude.conf' -vvvv -p atmega32u4 -c avr109 -P com5 -b57600 -D -V -U flash:w:"C:\Users\A\Desktop\Soarer_Converter_v1.12_update\Soarer_at2usb_v1.12_atmega32u4.hex":i
But it gets stuck here, please help
I don't understand what those last lines mean...
It's running on Win7 32bit, serial port is COM5, and I've everything soldered already (not sure if this will effect the process)
& 'C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin\avrdude.exe' -C 'C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin\avrdude.conf' -vvvv -p atmega32u4 -c avr109 -P com5 -b57600 -D -V -U flash:w:"C:\Users\A\Desktop\Soarer_Converter_v1.12_update\Soarer_at2usb_v1.12_atmega32u4.hex":i
But it gets stuck here, please help
I don't understand what those last lines mean...
It's running on Win7 32bit, serial port is COM5, and I've everything soldered already (not sure if this will effect the process)
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: G80-3000LQCDE-2 w/ SKIDATA+
- Main mouse: Logitech B100
- Favorite switch: M Buckling spring, so far
- DT Pro Member: 0247
My new converter doesn't seem to work with my Model M XT. I get the following output with hid_listen:
Sometimes I get "R06" or "R06 wEE" instead of "wEE". The first "rFF R05" pair is a key down, the folowing two pairs are the key up. On longer key presses I get multiple lines with one "rFF R05" pair and a final line with two or three pairs. I double checked the wiring and it seems fine to me. I'll attatch photos later. Do you have any idea what might be wrong?
Code: Select all
Listening:
wEE
remaining: FFFC
Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT
rFF R05
rFF R05 rFF R05
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- DT Pro Member: -
Are you sure it's an XT Model M? I thought that Model M's were all either AT (or PS/2) or terminal. The plug for AT looks the same as that for XT, so maybe you wired it up for the wrong plug? That or the adapter's confused as to what protocol to use.
Edit: The wiki says that there were Model Ms that were compatible with the XT computer and AT? I'm not sure how that worked. But I'd probably still check the wiring.
Edit: The wiki says that there were Model Ms that were compatible with the XT computer and AT? I'm not sure how that worked. But I'd probably still check the wiring.
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: G80-3000LQCDE-2 w/ SKIDATA+
- Main mouse: Logitech B100
- Favorite switch: M Buckling spring, so far
- DT Pro Member: 0247
It's a1986 1390148, which according to both german and english Wikipedia is XT/ISO DE/no lock lights. I can verify that ISO DE/no lock lights is correct, bu I have neither one IBM PC/XT nor one IBM PC/AT around to verifyjeb wrote: ↑Are you sure it's an XT Model M?
In the original Geekhack thread soarer wrotejeb wrote: ↑The plug for AT looks the same as that for XT, so maybe you wired it up for the wrong plug?
so I don't think I could mess that part up.XT and AT keyboards use the same 5 pin, 180 degree, DIN connector and pinout
jeb wrote: ↑I'd probably still check the wiring.
I just had another look and it still looks fine.Rimrul wrote: ↑I double checked the wiring and it seems fine to me.
jeb wrote: ↑That or the adapter's confused as to what protocol to use.
Soarer wrote: ↑ Other Features:
- Full NKRO, if the keyboard supports it (even on Macs!)
- Boot mode support (even with faulty BIOS!)
- Auto-detection of the keyboard type
Seems like the right protocoll to me...Rimrul wrote: ↑ Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT
Multiple scan code sets.jeb wrote: ↑The wiki says that there were Model Ms that were compatible with the XT computer and AT? I'm not sure how that worked.
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- DT Pro Member: -
I feel less bad about my ignorance after looking at Wikipedia's table; XT models are not especially common.
If your wiring's good, and you didn't flip the pinouts, then my next thought is, did you connect the reset pin? I'm not sure how a problem with the reset pin would manifest itself, and I don't know if it would cause a problem for a Model M, but it's all I've got to suggest. To use it with a Pro Micro, there's a patched firmware (see this post).
If your wiring's good, and you didn't flip the pinouts, then my next thought is, did you connect the reset pin? I'm not sure how a problem with the reset pin would manifest itself, and I don't know if it would cause a problem for a Model M, but it's all I've got to suggest. To use it with a Pro Micro, there's a patched firmware (see this post).
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- Location: Virginia
- DT Pro Member: -
I built the converter using a pro micro clone that I bought from AliExpress. Although various modern PS/2 keyboards worked correctly, I couldn't get my PC/XT Model F keyboard to work using the USB as the power source. I had to use an external 5VDC power supply for the Model F keyboard to make it work. It turns out that the problem was that J1 wasn't jumpered. It's something everyone might want to check on their clone boards..
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
wow Jim! that sounds really interesting.. could you take a picture of what you exactly did to jumper J1?jim121049 wrote: ↑I built the converter using a pro micro clone that I bought from AliExpress. Although various modern PS/2 keyboards worked correctly, I couldn't get my PC/XT Model F keyboard to work using the USB as the power source. I had to use an external 5VDC power supply for the Model F keyboard to make it work. It turns out that the problem was that J1 wasn't jumpered. It's something everyone might want to check on their clone boards..
tent
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- Location: London
- Main keyboard: IsoFox OG
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: 67g Zealios
- DT Pro Member: -
i was tearing my hair out trying to flash my pro micro, but this plus plugging it into a USB2 hub did it for me.XMIT wrote: ↑ - With the default bootloader, short RST to GND twice in succession. Then you have 8 seconds to flash!
Thanks Scottc and XMIT
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- Location: Virginia
- DT Pro Member: -
I just bridged it with a blob of solder.tentator wrote: ↑wow Jim! that sounds really interesting.. could you take a picture of what you exactly did to jumper J1?jim121049 wrote: ↑I built the converter using a pro micro clone that I bought from AliExpress. Although various modern PS/2 keyboards worked correctly, I couldn't get my PC/XT Model F keyboard to work using the USB as the power source. I had to use an external 5VDC power supply for the Model F keyboard to make it work. It turns out that the problem was that J1 wasn't jumpered. It's something everyone might want to check on their clone boards..
tent
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I see. And yes on aliexpress I just checked most boards come with J1 open and thus work with 3.3V instead of 5 which of course might be too few for model F's etc
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks very much for this writeup. This controller is a great choice for all Soarer based projects. Just replaced the Teensy in an IBM 6112884 keyboard with a ProMicro. Get your Teensys back
One mistake I made when ordering some of these on ebay was accidentally ordering the 3.3V version with just 8MHz. Be careful when buying and pick the 5V/16MHz version. Hardly any price difference.
Maybe I can get the 3.3V devices to work. Wonder if USB communication has issues with the 8MHz...
One mistake I made when ordering some of these on ebay was accidentally ordering the 3.3V version with just 8MHz. Be careful when buying and pick the 5V/16MHz version. Hardly any price difference.
Maybe I can get the 3.3V devices to work. Wonder if USB communication has issues with the 8MHz...
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
This probably explains the issues I had making an ADB converter with one of my latest ones. I'd better check they're not the 3.3V versions when I get home tonight...
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
I was hoping for 5v or 3.3 to be printed on the board - I think I've seen that before - but if that fails I'll try your method too. Cheers! That would certainly help to demystify the problem that some people seem to have.
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
Well ... I have a bunch of 3.3 and 5.0 boards. They all have the same silkscreen printing on the bottom side
And not a single board has any markings in any of the checkboxes
You can grab a sharpie and mark them yourself though!
Code: Select all
[ ] 3.3v
[ ] 5.0v
You can grab a sharpie and mark them yourself though!
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I see.. but the 5v are anyway needed if you want to use it for a soarer's that should control a model f for instance. So the rest is just power consumption thing..
- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Forgive my ignorance, but why is the speed so important? I know that soarer is closed source so it's prohibitive there, but If it's down the timings, couldn't tmk be adjusted by changing a constant or some such thing?Wodan wrote: ↑There is no benefit in changing the voltage. The speed of the atmega will not change.
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
I think you need at least 12MHz for USB communication. So the 8MHz version can be flashed through USB when in bootloader mode but not establish proper firmware USB communication. Please correct me if I'm wrong here! After all I guess the firmware must be recompiled for the 8MHz version to get the timing for the USB communication right again if poissible at all.
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Guys wasn't the original question about the model f conversion and voltage just because the 3.3v was not enough? And then 5v was Ok (after soldering a blob on j1) or are we speaking about some completely other issue about MHz and bootloader?
- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I think that the question last month was about 5V/16Mhz versions that came defective out of the factory, so soldering of J1 was needed to repair them. Before that they were basically a 3.3V/16Mhz variants.
Wodan on the other hand bought a working 3.3V/8Mhz by mistake, so we're lamenting if it can be made to work.
That is, if I'm understanding everything correctly
Wodan on the other hand bought a working 3.3V/8Mhz by mistake, so we're lamenting if it can be made to work.
That is, if I'm understanding everything correctly
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
a ha now I got it, sorry.
But then I also got many "Defective ones" because mine are all with 16mhz crystals and j1 not soldered so 3.3V... they work unless you try to control a model f at least..
But then I also got many "Defective ones" because mine are all with 16mhz crystals and j1 not soldered so 3.3V... they work unless you try to control a model f at least..
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
Well ... long story short:
- Check the MHz rating of the crystal (square bare metal thing) on your PCB
- Measure the voltage of the VCC pin and make sure it's 5v when using this in a Soarer scenario
- Check the MHz rating of the crystal (square bare metal thing) on your PCB
- Measure the voltage of the VCC pin and make sure it's 5v when using this in a Soarer scenario
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
Where did you read that? I'm using an 8 MHz Teensy 2.0++, and that works without any problem. It's not a 32u4, I haven't tested that, but I don't think they are that different.Wodan wrote: ↑I think you need at least 12MHz for USB communication. So the 8MHz version can be flashed through USB when in bootloader mode but not establish proper firmware USB communication. Please correct me if I'm wrong here!
That's true, the firmware must know the processor speed, you have to set a preprocessor variable or two accordingly.After all I guess the firmware must be recompiled for the 8MHz version to get the timing for the USB communication right again if poissible at all.