(Model MF) Remodeling the Model M (aka.. the Mara)

[lot_lizard]

WCass has been pulling some rabbits out of his hat for the controller. Stay tuned, but something interesting is in the works where we MIGHT have multiple USB connection options, and the connection from the PCB to the mini xWhatsit would require no ribbon cable. Mad genius at work... Back away!!!

Moral... It's wicked goodness. I'm ordering his crazy thoughts from OshPark to test as we speak. No guarantees, but on paper... We like.

[pyrelink]

No ribbon cable? Sounds intriguing!

[Techno Trousers]

Woah! This project keeps getting better and better. Go wcass and lot_lizard!

[lot_lizard]

We were just about ready to start testing the mini xWhatsit, so his timing is perfect for the specific improvements to our project. Again, this all needs to be proven with testing and tweaks, but the general idea (all WCass) is to have the connection between the PCB and the controller be a connector similar to that of the beamspring xWhatsit, but inverted so that the controller sits behind the curved plate. Net... the new mini xWhatsit would slip right onto the PCB.

Then a short header cable over to the USB connector board that would slip over the pegs of the Model M's lower shell at cable exit. He had the idea of offering various USB connector board options. Then if you would like to change to a different connector later, you would just need to swap out (no impact on the mini xWhatsit). The following is a render of the USB-C version of the connector board.

Capture.PNG (72.27 KiB) Viewed 5576 times

My meager contribution would be to make a retainer/cover modeled after the retainer clip that Techno sent me from a terminal M. The clip would be connector specific (potentially a single core component with the ability to adapt... chewing on), that would cradle the USB female connector itself on all sides, cover the exit hole, and help hold the board steady. The following is the picture of the original clip to get an idea.


I have ordered the following four USB connector boards for testing from OshPark:

• B
• C
• Micro
• Mini

There are several advantages to this component driven approach. Below are some links and images to help visualize the concept.

• Example of PCB to controller connector

• 

  USB-C connector PCB (alternative design has round holes)

  C.jpg (169.02 KiB) Viewed 5504 times

• 

  USB-B connector PCB

  B.jpg (172.19 KiB) Viewed 5504 times

• 

  USB-Micro connector PCB

  micro.jpg (171.6 KiB) Viewed 5504 times

• 

  USB-Mini connector PCB

  mini.jpg (162.73 KiB) Viewed 5504 times

[Rimrul]

The alternative PCB images seem to be missing. I get a Message saying that they don't exist anymore when I'm logged in and a message that I'm not authorized when I'm not logged in.

[lot_lizard]

The alternative PCB images seem to be missing. I get a Message saying that they don't exist anymore when I'm logged in and a message that I'm not authorized when I'm not logged in.

Thanks for letting me know Rimrul. I mistakenly tied them to the images from the PM's with WCass to save uploading (server space). It has been corrected.


EDIT: Also, if an upload of what the new controller would look like attached to the PCB would help visualize... I can add a quick mockup. Let me know

[Techno Trousers]

This is all great stuff. I'd like to use USB Type C cables myself, and it'll be great to have that option (pending successful testing, of course).

[lot_lizard]

This is all great stuff. I'd like to use USB Type C cables myself, and it'll be great to have that option (pending successful testing, of course).

Would we like bulk pricing on "sexy" cables then as well, or would folks rather fend for themselves? If so, 1m, 1.5m, 2m? I suspect we could find something that complimented the beige and industrial cases well for the various connector options. At minimum, we can get some cheap versions for basically nothing to throw in. I would prefer to go with one product line though to avoid having too many options to manage.

[Techno Trousers]

I do like the braided cables, and complementing the case colors would be really cool and make that particular cable easy to identify among a sea of black cables. I generally like my cables as long as possible, since it's easy to coil and shorten a cable that's too long, but not so easy to deal with when it's too short. However, I might want to get 1m cables too, since at home I plug into a hub right next to my monitor.

That's a roundabout way of saying I'd like to be able to get both a 1m and 2m cable for each of my FSSK and FEXT assemblies: 2 1m beige, 2 2m beige, and one of each in industrial gray.

But if multiple lengths is too much to manage, I'd prefer to go with 2m for everything.

[lot_lizard]

Sorry for another poll, but braided USB-B cables are not going to be realistic (the others will be). I need to get an idea of ratios here so that I can pick up what we are projected to need from Cindy's contact while the USB-B cables are as cheap as they are (he has a limited supply that won't be replenished). Please vote, and sooner rather than later to give me an idea

[fohat]

My preference would be a standard large USB-B cable at least 2 meters (6 feet) long, NON-COILED!, matching case color or slightly darker, if possible. Braided is generally irrelevant but might be cool.

[andrewjoy]

My preference is for type C but anything thats not mini or micro is good for me

[giokkk]

Standard large USB-B cable in a dark color.

[lot_lizard]

And we have a retainer clip... it's not too much to look at, but would be an identical copy of the one Techno Trousers sent me (image a few posts back). We still need to add housings for the USB female ports, but the gist. Once we add the female USB's, we will build a frame around the 4 back sides (controller itself being the 5th) to help secure the port itself.

Front

Model MF Retainer Clip Front.png (18.08 KiB) Viewed 5450 times

Back with retainer clips for Model M case controller pegs

Model MF Retainer Clip Back.png (23.49 KiB) Viewed 5450 times

Including the OpenSCAD code if it is interesting to some. Gives a sneak peak what all this about. Eventually once it is ready for group buy, all (a LOT) will be released. Keep in mind this is all one big eco-system of code, and will likely take a while to fully digest. If there are ever questions, I would be happy to translate (I don't do comments ). All numbers are in mm.

Code: Select all

COVER_X = 27;
COVER_X_VARIANCE = 1.5;
COVER_X_OFFSET = 2.75;
COVER_Y = 6;
COVER_Y_OFFSET = 1.25;
COVER_Z = 13.75;
COVER_Z_OFFSET = 2;

CLIP_R_OUTER = 5;
CLIP_R_INNER = 1.75;
CLIP_X_SEPARATION = 24;
CLIP_Y_OFFSET = 7.5;
CLIP_Z = 3;
CLIP_Z_OFFSET = .5;

CYLINDER_FACETS = 128;

module copy_mirror(v) { 
    children(); 
    mirror(v) children(); 
} 

rotate([90, 0, 0]) {
    difference() {
        union() {
            translate([COVER_X_OFFSET, 0, 0])
                linear_extrude(height = COVER_Y / 2) 
                    polygon(points=[[COVER_X_VARIANCE / 2, 0], [COVER_X - (COVER_X_OFFSET * 2) - (COVER_X_VARIANCE / 2), 0], [COVER_X - (COVER_X_OFFSET * 2), COVER_Z], [0, COVER_Z]]);
            translate([0, 0, -COVER_Y / 2])
                linear_extrude(height = COVER_Y / 2) 
                    polygon(points=[[COVER_X_VARIANCE / 2, 0], [COVER_X - (COVER_X_VARIANCE / 2), 0], [COVER_X, COVER_Z], [0, COVER_Z]]);
        }
        translate([0, COVER_Z - COVER_Z_OFFSET, -COVER_Y / 2])
            cube([COVER_X, COVER_Z_OFFSET, COVER_Y - COVER_Y_OFFSET]);
    }
}

translate([COVER_X / 2, 0, 0])
    copy_mirror(vec=[0,1,0])
        translate([-CLIP_X_SEPARATION / 2, CLIP_Y_OFFSET, -CLIP_Z_OFFSET])
            difference() {
                union() {
                    cylinder(r=CLIP_R_OUTER, h=CLIP_Z, $fn=CYLINDER_FACETS);
                    translate([-CLIP_R_OUTER, -CLIP_R_OUTER, 0])
                        cube([CLIP_R_OUTER * 2, CLIP_R_OUTER, CLIP_Z]);
                }
                cylinder(r=CLIP_R_INNER, h=CLIP_Z, $fn=CYLINDER_FACETS);
            }

[Techno Trousers]

And we have a retainer clip... it's not too much to look at, but would be an identical copy of the one Techno Trousers sent me (image a few posts back).

Nice! Sometimes I have trouble visualizing everything together. So, in my mind's eye... Your description of the planned controller mount said it would slip into a slot on the back of the back plate, and there would be a cable to the little daughter card that is port-specific. It also said the daughter card will make use of the case controller pegs. Will the port blanks also be able to make use of those pegs (if the daughter card PCB is thin enough), or are you planning that the port blanks will not have peg holes at all, and be held in place by tension top and bottom from the sandwiching action of the case and abutting the port mounting point on the daughter card?

Edit: actually, after rereading I see you mentioned port-specific framing at the back of the blanks. So that should make the port blank sit nice and snug around each type of port for a professional fit and appearance. Awesome!

[lot_lizard]

Edit: actually, after rereading I see you mentioned port-specific framing at the back of the blanks. So that should make the port blank sit nice and snug around each type of port for a professional fit and appearance. Awesome!

Exactly... this is just a blank for now until we get each of the USB controllers in. As you say, these controllers will be a daughter board to the mini-xWhatsit. So the mini-xWhatsit will be universal and fit directly onto the PCB using the integrated connection (like the xWhatsit Beamspring). Then a simple header cable runs from the xWhatsit to the USB daughter board. We will have 4 USB daughter board options (USB B,C,Mini,Micro), and there will be a unique retainer clip to fit each female USB adapter perfectly. Once we get all the daughter boards created, we will modify this blank I previously posted to securely hold each one. I have a feeling the mini/micro's won't be desirable, but I will mock-up the .STL files anyway in case someone would like to have later.

[Hypersphere]

Regarding USB connectors, I have no overwhelming preference. Most of the keyboards in my active rotation are mini-USB, and so I keep a mini-USB cable connected to my hub for easy exchange of keyboards.

On the other hand, when I installed Soarer's converter in my XT, I went with a USB-B connector, which seemed better suited to the scale of the XT than a mini or micro connector.

My understanding is that the new standard is USB-C, so going this route would "future proof" the new FSSK.

Nice to know there will be a choice among the 4 connector types. I will try to make up my mind before the GB begins!

[drevyek]

For me, the biggest concern is durability. B and C will have available connectors for years, so finding replacement cables won't be a problem, but resoldering the connectors will be. I'm not sure the durability or shock-resistance of B vs C, but whichever one lets the board take the most abuse is the one I would vote for.
I'm not really talking about # of insertions though. I'm much more worried about someone (aka, not me) yanking at the cord, or stepping on it, or _____. Insertions isn't a problem: 5k insertions vs 10k isn't important if you only swap cables once per month.

[lot_lizard]

B and C will have available connectors for years, so finding replacement cables won't be a problem, but resoldering the connectors will be.

Just to be more clear... at the time of group buy, we will offer all 4 USB connection types. I am just taking a poll now so I can understand the ratio of USB-B to every thing that we will need so I can pre-buy all of the cables (non-braided) from Cindy's contact since the price is so cheap. The C/mini/micro types would be braided cables purchased later. Again... all will be available options.


I mentioned before about the advantages of this "component driven" model, but should elaborate a bit more about that actually means. Say in a couple of years... someone wants to make our phase 1 board Bluetooth. Instead of creating a whole new controller, they would just reconcile/refactor the USB daughter board to augment the new feature. This would leave the xWhatsit itself wholly intact, but allow the daughter board to "go bananas" (Bluetooth, act as a USB hub for your mouse... whatever). That really is the genius behind what WCass came up with. I just want to make sure that is appreciated for what it is (he really did dream up something beautiful).

[fohat]

Regarding USB connectors, I have no overwhelming preference.

There is only 1 truly superior connector: the magnetic ones used on MacBooks.
I loathe "The Apple" on almost every level, but the magnetic plug is sheer utter genius.

Otherwise, I don't even care about detachable cables and would prefer a fixed one, but personally I think that "B" is the strongest and "mini" is the weakest.

[Colnor]

No preference on connector type (I'll cast a vote for C), but make the cable long (3 m)

[Hypersphere]

@fohat: Mostly I use desktop computers, but my laptop is a Macbook Air. I must say, I really like the magnetic power connector.

My 60% keyboards all use mini-USB, and I have had no problems with them except for the KC60 -- I returned the first one because the connector detached from the PCB, and the replacement has a loose-fitting mini-USB connector.

I like the SDL connector on my SSK, and as I mentioned previously, I installed a USB-B in my XT, as this connector seemed to fit the scale and weight of the keyboard.

[lot_lizard]

Thanks for voting... I have what I need to capture the USB-B order count with Cindy's contact.

Quick updates:

• Initial switch haul will be limited to 50 boards (20 previously from Cindy, and 30 additional directly from her friend... which is still fabulous). Her friend will soon be sending me the next 30 via ground shipping versus freight since the quantity was less than initial planning. It sounds like a vast majority of these will be F122's, which certainly helps our switch counts. Cindy is still actively looking for other such finds on our behalf
• Latest version of the top and bottom plates for both the Full Size and SSK will be processed tomorrow by the metal shop, so we could have some results there either this weekend or early next week
• Shapeways finally shipped my replacement parts for the "silenced" Cherry key stem adapter and modified barrel. Arguing back and forth with them was a disheartening process
• Ordered prints of the stabilizer clips (spacebar, vertical keys, etc) and USB port retainer blank to test the concept

Screen Shot 2016-08-03 at 6.47.26 AM.png (63.06 KiB) Viewed 5373 times

[andrewjoy]

Who the hell prefers Mini over micro ....... honestly i do wonder sometimes !

If you want a crappy old USB connector use Micro B or Mini A ( yes mini A is a thing ).

[lot_lizard]

Cindy let me know the other 30 boards have shipped (50 total when they are received). The cost per switch is tracking currently at ~52.5 cents each, but we have yet to recoup much cost from the salvaged boards themselves.

I LITERALLY will let any part from ANY of these boards you are interested in go for minimal amounts. Ideally they are part of the eventual orders to save on shipping for you (processing for me). Several items have been spoken for, but if you need parts for F122, XT, Bigfoot, Blue Switches... PM me. I want to see the parts go to someone, and really have NO interest selling them outright as "parts boards" (or worse... actually sending them to salvage). PCBs, Cases, Badges, Cables, Feet, whatever... Let's get them to a good home for minimal amounts (5 bucks a part or less... offers accepted). Every bit helps bring the price of the switches down to our 50 cent target.

Think entire boards minus barrels/flippers/keys for 10 bucks = SOLD. The Bigfeet I donated to this cause are in remarkable shape. Please don't make me open up a thread for salvage nonsense.

[Techno Trousers]

Okay, here's an idea about storage boxes now that the connector issues are answered (I think the vast majority of us who are upgrading bare M and SSK keyboards don't have the original IBM boxes). This may be outside the scope of the project, which I'd totally understand.

Looking at my individually shipped industrial case, I saw that the packaging would make a great long-term storage box for that particular FEXT once I have built it (see pictures below). It's nowhere near the luxury of the custom box and inner foam that ellipse is creating for his project, but it would meet my needs, and perhaps be more environmentally friendly without Styrofoam inside. I was thinking about taking apart and reverse engineering the box and standoffs to manually cut and glue together my own new boxes out of extra heavy duty cardboard or other material (FEXT and FSSK sized). But if it's an option to have something like that done by professionals, that might be even better.

What do you think, lizard? Have you given storage any thought?

box1.jpg (98.44 KiB) Viewed 5296 times

box2.jpg (129.94 KiB) Viewed 5296 times

[lot_lizard]

Have you given storage any thought?

Minimal amounts at best. I planned on shipping the PCB shipped between the top and bottom plate since the radial bend would be identical. For the few that grabbed an industrial case as part of the tiny group buy, we would put the whole assembly in there... but that is the extent.


It is an appropriate time to consider this though. We are probably within a month before the group buy (eventual marketplace thread) will start. I am assuming half the orders will be overseas (wild a$$ guess), and will be shipped as 1-2 pallets of pre-packaged boxes. The smaller the better (while still being secure). We have the luxury of shipping steel plates with the delicate parts sandwiched (almost everyone will need both plates and the PCB).

Because we will be taking a different approach than Ellipse and having a Euro proxy, we can get away with more minimal packaging to achieve the same end result. I will start checking around (must confess... cardboard boxes are something I know little about)

[E TwentyNine]

I think you can probably use the USPS game boxes and some spare cardboard (like another game box) to achieve the same result as that case box. Such a simple approach.

[Techno Trousers]

I think you can probably use the USPS game boxes and some spare cardboard (like another game box) to achieve the same result as that case box. Such a simple approach.

Yeah, it'll definitely be pretty simple to cut these parts myself. One nice thing about the Unicomp box is that it's a "presentation" style box, so when the top swings down there are tabs that go into slots in the front of the box to close and secure it. It's much nicer to get things in and out of than the USPS game boxes are.

[pyrelink]

Maybe its just what I have ordered but Unicomps boxes and packaging is always pretty great. I think I have kept and repurposed every box they have sent me. I am not a huge fan of gameboxes for shipping heavy keyboards, but they might work in this case. Don't want to go crazy (cost wise) on shipping materials, but something reusable for storage would be nice.

But the chance of me removing my FSSK from my desk is quite low so storage might not be needed,