(Model MF) Remodeling the Model M (aka.. the Mara)

[chzel]

Mouthwatering....Phenomenal job lot_lizard!

[webwit]

Absolutely stunning.

[lot_lizard]

Thanks guys... It's been a blast and fun to see something to finally take real pride in

Now that I'm done ogling - are the extra screw holes near navigation a bit of securing that you've realized isn't needed?

Also, what's the function of the rectangular cutouts in a few places?

I am still experimenting with the tension screws, but ultimately we want the least possible that provide actual value (cost and appearance impacts). The o-rings do provide value (more than I expected). Over tensioning is proving to be less than ideal in the middle of the board, and the reduced force per screw revolution using the rings helps with that (thank Phosphorglow).


The rectangular cutouts are for the top case shell extrusions. We are thicker now than the original M assembly with the thicker top plate. These cutouts allow the top plate to be "infinitely" thick without putting unnecessary stress on the shell itself.

image.jpeg (1012.13 KiB) Viewed 5119 times

[fohat]

You will have to include a box of tissues when you ship the finals.

[Techno Trousers]

Wow!! Three thumbs up for sure, lizard. Looking at the picture of how the daughter card sits on the pegs, it sure seems like the custom port blanks could share those pegs as well, for extra stability.

Such great work by you, wcass, and everyone everyone else on this project!

[pyrelink]

This is truly incredible, Lizard. Can't wait to have one on my desk.

[drevyek]

I knew it was going to look great, but I had no idea how great. On all counts, fan flipping tastic.

Wow!! Three thumbs up for sure, lizard. Looking at the picture of how the daughter card sits on the pegs, it sure seems like the custom port blanks could share those pegs as well, for extra stability.

I think that's a great idea. Keep everything aligned, and as easy to install as possible.

[Darkshado]

Wow, superb work. I like my Model Ms, gotta try an F in person (to be the safe, confirm I like them too); and keep my eyes peeled for an SSK on the cheap, if such a thing exists in this day and age...

[Techno Trousers]

I've never heard anyone express a preference for membrane BS over capacitive BS, but it's probably a good idea to be sure before jumping in.

[lot_lizard]

Updated the retainer clip, and sent off for printing. This will sit over the top of the daughter board PCB, and cradle the USB female port on three sides (.25mm tolerance). The retainer clip uses and extrusion from the top shell to hold the clip in position on the retainer pins of the bottom shell.

I really like how the USB-B sits in there. I know we are offering 4 variations of the USB connection, but I will probably only mock-up a retainer clip for the B and C. We will have a "blank" version as well if someone would like to dremel out for a mini, micro, or some future connection (note this would not secure the USB port like the B and C will).

Screen Shot 2016-08-19 at 10.04.11 AM.png (203.54 KiB) Viewed 4929 times

Screen Shot 2016-08-19 at 10.04.51 AM.png (305.02 KiB) Viewed 4929 times

Screen Shot 2016-08-19 at 10.05.19 AM.png (159.93 KiB) Viewed 4929 times

EDIT: Adding an image of the previous retainer clip for a terminal M to get an idea of how the USB daughter board will be secured. Our dimensions would be identical with different port cover and port housing. The plan is to print these in plastic and paint to either IBM cream or industrial.

Previous Model M retainer clip (terminal connection)

FullSizeRender 2.jpg (652.59 KiB) Viewed 4912 times

[Hypersphere]

I like the USB-B connector. This is what I have installed on my XT, and it seems perfectly suited to an "industrial strength" keyboard. Moreover, USB-B cables are available with straight, left-angle, and right-angle plugs, which should suit just about any desktop setup.

[E TwentyNine]

The plan is to print these in plastic and paint to either IBM cream or industrial.

What color would the base plastic be? On either a white or industrial case, I think a dark grey or black would still work fine and I'd prefer an unpainted piece over a painted one.

[lot_lizard]

What color would the base plastic be? On either a white or industrial case, I think a dark grey or black would still work fine and I'd prefer an unpainted piece over a painted one.

It will be a white porous polymer. It soaks in acrylic paint quite well, so wouldn't be something capable of chipping. Having said that, I would be happy to leave bare per specific request. Again, think of the paint acting more like a dye than a surface paint.

[Techno Trousers]

Updated the retainer clip, and sent off for printing. This will sit over the top of the daughter board PCB, and cradle the USB female port on three sides (.25mm tolerance).

That is absolutely PERFECT! The USB ports are going to be virtually unbreakable.

[pyrelink]

The USB connectors are by far the weakest points on my Xwhatsit Model F boards, so it is good to see this much work put into beefing up the connectors for these boards. These should be pretty indestructible when all said and done.

[fohat]

These should be pretty indestructible when all said and done.

Or, perhaps better, easily replaceable!

PS - I like plain plastic, too.

[lot_lizard]

PS - I like plain plastic, too.

When I get them in, let me paint them and then decide. Not saying you still won't want plain plastic, but I have already color matched the cases. The raw white is going to clash, and it will save you 10+ dollars on whatever coloring you might want to do (unless you have painted your M shell a custom color). I will take some pics to show compared to multiple cleaned cases in both colors.

[fohat]

let me paint them and then decide. Not saying you still won't want plain plastic

No prob. I am generally indifferent to things that are not readily visible.

[wcass]

I see one minor issue.

The xwhatsit calls for a 0.1 uF capacitor between USB shield and ground (C6). I moved that to the daughter board but looks like i put it too close to a peg and it is under an ear of the retainer clip. I should turn it 90 and move that further out of the way. The "back wall" of the retainer clip looks thin enough to not interfere with the 4 pin header, but should be checked to make sure.

Please let me know if i need to move anything else.

[lot_lizard]

The xwhatsit calls for a 0.1 uF capacitor between USB shield and ground (C6). I moved that to the daughter board but looks like i put it too close to a peg and it is under an ear of the retainer clip. I should turn it 90 and move that further out of the way. The "back wall" of the retainer clip looks thin enough to not interfere with the 4 pin header, but should be checked to make sure.

i actually reduced the radius of the retainer peg ear in that corner to account for the capacitor overlap (not in the render, but in the order). If you would prefer to alter the board, let me know. Either way works well from my standpoint.


The back wall is 1mm, and I believe works based on measurements (though tight). We'll know more after the prints. I am very impressed with how flush the USB-B female port "front" sits in relation to the cases's shell. You really did a great job without anything in hand to play with (all abstract).

[lot_lizard]

I am going on a week long holiday, and won't be knocking out in work in this space until I return. Will certainly monitor and contribute with dialogue, but expect little substance from my end. Normally wouldn't even mention, but we have been moving at a reasonable clip and didn't want folks wondering if we "stalled".

Just some random updates (brain dump and checklist):

• Prints have been ordered for the USB retainer clips (includes notch WCass just noted)
• Prints for the stabilizer clips for "wired" keys (spacebar, ISO enter, etc) have been ordered. We might actually take that path over metal in the end if I can print in bulk for cheap (say .10 cents each) since they are so tiny, and would avoid metal on metal contact. Plus anyone can use those plans to print for other projects in the future.
• OshPark is currently producing our new xWhatsit board, and I have ordered the parts to solder on when it arrives
• USB header cable between the xWhatsit and daughter board needs to be resolved. If someone is "board" (bad pun), feel free to find us something cheap and sexy. Yellow cable might be fun to mimic the early M LED board connection
• PCB still needs to be modified to accept the new xWhatsit slip-on connector
• Key cutouts need to be added to the plate designs to support the split spacebar option with "Code" key
• Our box producer has a sample ready for me to come look at it
• Foam techniques are still being explored (we have something, but I think it can improve)
• Full size (FEXT) still needs to be assembled and tested
• Connection from the xWhatsit to the LED board of existing M still needs to be worked out. Not sure the best option there given there are a couple ribbon cable connection types. Could be easier to just have one produced that we know works versus trying to retrofit the previous (maybe with different LED color options, etc)

I'm sure the list above has gaps, and will edit as thoughts pop in. Feel free to post anything I overlooked or comments

[002]

You have well and truly earned your holiday -- have fun!

[fohat]

I am going on a week long holiday, and won't be knocking out in work in this space until I return.

You are a cruel tease.

Imagine all the folks here drooling, unrequited, for a whole week.

[Techno Trousers]

Connection from the xWhatsit to the LED board of existing M still needs to be worked out. Not sure the best option there given there are a couple ribbon cable connection types. Could be easier to just have one produced that we know works versus trying to retrofit the previous (maybe with different LED color options, etc)

My vote is for having a new one produced. That would also provide a solution for the Unicomp industrial cases, which didn't come with LED assemblies. Maybe it would even work for future metal cases.

For the SSK we are still going for the phosphorglow mod with the LED under caps lock?

Have a great vacation!

[wcass]

I'll take some of these jobs.

• USB header cable between the xWhatsit and daughter board needs to be resolved. If someone is "board" (bad pun), feel free to find us something cheap and sexy. Yellow cable might be fun to mimic the early M LED board connection
• PCB still needs to be modified to accept the new xWhatsit slip-on connector
• Key cutouts need to be added to the plate designs to support the split spacebar option with "Code" key
• Connection from the xWhatsit to the LED board of existing M still needs to be worked out. Not sure the best option there given there are a couple ribbon cable connection types. Could be easier to just have one produced that we know works versus trying to retrofit the previous (maybe with different LED color options, etc)

I can find lots of 12" cables on eBay with 4 pin Dupont female on both sides - 10 for $2. Just need to cut that in half to get two. D+ and D- are normally twisted. I could do that manually, but for a 6" jumper it shouldn't matter. Traditional USB colors are red (vcc), white (D-), green (D+), black (gnd). I would try to find cables that match that and then cover with shrink-wrap.

I might suggest just putting surface mount resistor and LEDs on the matrix PCB. Yes, curving the PCB might normally cause surface mount parts to pop off, but i think i have a way around that.

[E TwentyNine]

I am going on a week long holiday, and won't be knocking out in work in this space until I return.

Enjoy your vacation!

[lot_lizard]

I'll take some of these jobs.

That would be Christmas in August... Nothing would make me (us) happier.

Key cutouts need to be added to the plate designs to support the split spacebar option with "Code" key

I have the measurements for the top plate cutouts. Would be ideal to compare numbers to validate

I might suggest just putting surface mount resistor and LEDs on the matrix PCB. Yes, curving the PCB might normally cause surface mount parts to pop off, but i think i have a way around that.

I am going to pre-bend these PCBs in bulk using an oven. It would be ideal if whatever we came up with could support multiples stacked when pressed and heated. I haven't ever mentioned that, but the current plan.


Thanks again... Having a single skilled person take on all aspects of one dimension of this really is ideal. Our chances for success definitely just went up.

[Techno Trousers]

Thanks again wcass!!

[lot_lizard]

For the SSK we are still going for the phosphorglow mod with the LED under caps lock?

I'm PMing Phosphorglow about what would be ideal to potentially support LEDs under every key. Whether or not it ever happens, we would still be setup so that the plates wouldn't need to be altered to support it at some point. If we do that strategy... the Capslock, Numlock, Scrolllock support would just come along for the ride (for both the SSK and full-size).

[Vizir]

For the SSK we are still going for the phosphorglow mod with the LED under caps lock?

I'm PMing Phosphorglow about what would be ideal to potentially support LEDs under every key. Whether or not it ever happens, we would still be setup so that the plates wouldn't need to be altered to support it at some point. If we do that strategy... the Capslock, Numlock, Scrolllock support would just come along for the ride (for both the SSK and full-size).

I love this idea!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk