Buying a Model M german ISO Keycap Set - Unicomp the better option?
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: 60% custom
- Main mouse: Glorious Model O
- Favorite switch: Cherry Vintage Black /w 85 cN
- DT Pro Member: -
Hello there,
I am a proud owner of an IBM Model M from 1990, screw-modded by i$. The board is in an excellent shape. My problem is that the M has ANSI-layout. A wile ago, I switched back to german ISO because I can't get used to ANSI.
I read this post (https://imgur.com/a/fmqXG) and it seems to be pretty easy to convert ANSI to ISO. So do you guys have an idea where to get a full german keycap-set? I thought about ordering one at Unicomp, but they aren't famous for their quality...
I am a proud owner of an IBM Model M from 1990, screw-modded by i$. The board is in an excellent shape. My problem is that the M has ANSI-layout. A wile ago, I switched back to german ISO because I can't get used to ANSI.
I read this post (https://imgur.com/a/fmqXG) and it seems to be pretty easy to convert ANSI to ISO. So do you guys have an idea where to get a full german keycap-set? I thought about ordering one at Unicomp, but they aren't famous for their quality...
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Hello hKinghKing wrote: ↑Hello there,
I am a proud owner of an IBM Model M from 1990, screw-modded by i$. The board is in an excellent shape. My problem is that the M has ANSI-layout. A wile ago, I switched back to german ISO because I can't get used to ANSI.
I read this post (https://imgur.com/a/fmqXG) and it seems to be pretty easy to convert ANSI to ISO. So do you guys have an idea where to get a full german keycap-set? I thought about ordering one at Unicomp, but they aren't famous for their quality...
simple answer. We buy a ISO DE in the same condition, I mod it and we swap it
I cannot stand ISO ! I am always looking for ANSI IBMs in Germany.
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Keep both then ...hKing wrote: ↑Seems like a good idea!
As you know, I bought the Model M as NIB - good luck finding NIB german ISO caps
You will have an option to go back to the good religion of ANSI.
- Rainman
- Location: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
- Main keyboard: Pok3r
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder 2013
- Favorite switch: MX black, red
- DT Pro Member: -
I own a German ISO Model M from 1992 (If I recall correctly) which I bolt modded myself following the Phosphor Glow's tutorial on YouTube. Since I've started using 60% layout my interest in Model M slowly shifted away to smaller sized keyboards. Now after a good year of Poker use I do miss the buckling spring and no cherry keyboard can even come close to this satisfying feeling of a Buckling Spring but I just can't stand a full seized keyboards. I was also looking for Model M SSK but these are just out of my budget range. Anyways, My model M has been refurbished from scratch, thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and bolt modded of course. Since I don't use it, I might consider even selling it.
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
You can get a brand new 60% sized buckling spring keyboard from http://www.modelfkeyboards.comRainman wrote: ↑I own a German ISO Model M from 1992 (If I recall correctly) which I bolt modded myself following the Phosphor Glow's tutorial on YouTube. Since I've started using 60% layout my interest in Model M slowly shifted away to smaller sized keyboards. Now after a good year of Poker use I do miss the buckling spring and no cherry keyboard can even come close to this satisfying feeling of a Buckling Spring but I just can't stand a full seized keyboards. I was also looking for Model M SSK but these are just out of my budget range. Anyways, My model M has been refurbished from scratch, thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and bolt modded of course. Since I don't use it, I might consider even selling it.
- Rainman
- Location: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
- Main keyboard: Pok3r
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder 2013
- Favorite switch: MX black, red
- DT Pro Member: -
I'd have hard time to justify paying $400 + shipping for a keyboard. But that's a totally different story. I always wondered why wasn't it possible to refresh the design and move away from that retro Model M looks. For example, KBP made fukua and matias v60 which looks awesome compared to old Apple boards (and still got the alps switches). I know buckling spring comes as a unit, but still, the case could've seen a bit of refreshment.Wodan wrote: ↑You can get a brand new 60% sized buckling spring keyboard from http://www.modelfkeyboards.comRainman wrote: ↑I own a German ISO Model M from 1992 (If I recall correctly) which I bolt modded myself following the Phosphor Glow's tutorial on YouTube. Since I've started using 60% layout my interest in Model M slowly shifted away to smaller sized keyboards. Now after a good year of Poker use I do miss the buckling spring and no cherry keyboard can even come close to this satisfying feeling of a Buckling Spring but I just can't stand a full seized keyboards. I was also looking for Model M SSK but these are just out of my budget range. Anyways, My model M has been refurbished from scratch, thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and bolt modded of course. Since I don't use it, I might consider even selling it.
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- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I've also two ISO Model M (both PT layout), I would definitely trade them for the ANSI version. I thought the Unicomp keysets were similar in every way to the older Model M keysets. I haven't heard before about Unicomp quality issues.
- emdude
- Model M Apologist
- DT Pro Member: 0160
Unicomp definitely has quality issues with their key caps, legends are blurrier and often have problems with alignment. Supposedly brand-new key caps can have shine for some reason too.
That said, there are quality differences even between IBM/Lexmark-produced Model M key caps. Generally speaking, the older the board, the better the quality. I am particularly picky about this; for Model Ms that are missing key caps, I try to get replacement caps that were made in the same period of time.
That said, there are quality differences even between IBM/Lexmark-produced Model M key caps. Generally speaking, the older the board, the better the quality. I am particularly picky about this; for Model Ms that are missing key caps, I try to get replacement caps that were made in the same period of time.
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- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Nice to know that. I bought a Wheelwriter some time ago to use its keyboard with a Teensy, maybe I'll be able to use its keycaps to convert one of my Model M to ANSI without having to buy any new keycaps. Its keycaps looked nice, I hope they'll be as good as the Model M I'll put them on.
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: 60% custom
- Main mouse: Glorious Model O
- Favorite switch: Cherry Vintage Black /w 85 cN
- DT Pro Member: -
So if I'd buy blank ones, there should be no problem at all?emdude wrote: ↑Unicomp definitely has quality issues with their key caps, legends are blurrier and often have problems with alignment. Supposedly brand-new key caps can have shine for some reason too.
That said, there are quality differences even between IBM/Lexmark-produced Model M key caps. Generally speaking, the older the board, the better the quality. I am particularly picky about this; for Model Ms that are missing key caps, I try to get replacement caps that were made in the same period of time.
I've seen pictures from black blank caps. Those caps are new, but they look like they have some kind of shine on them. Is that normal?
- emdude
- Model M Apologist
- DT Pro Member: 0160
Yeah, you don't have to worry about the legends at least.. The next time I get key caps from Unicomp, they will likely be blanks.
The shine is normal, might be because of their aging tooling. A while back, I purchased RGB modifiers which also had very noticeable amounts of shine.
The shine is normal, might be because of their aging tooling. A while back, I purchased RGB modifiers which also had very noticeable amounts of shine.