Retouching the plastic of the Model F

[Cattus_D]

Hi guys,

I've been lurking here for a while. I'm very interested in mechanical keyboards - although I reckon this doesn't surprise you as this is a forum for mechanical keyboard enthusiasts.

I'm a lecturer and literary historian by trade, which means I spend a lot of time sitting behind a computer. At work I'm forced to use an HP KU-0316 rubberdome keyboard; at home, though, I usually type on a Model M.

Yet I digress...

I recently purchased a Model F, which I disassembled, cleaned and put back together. I noticed when I rubbed away at the top shell with some alcohol (it was rather grimy) that some of the top layer came off. Being used to the Model M, I didn't realise at first that the plastic had been painted and that I was, in fact, taking off some of the paint. To be honest, the keyboard looks better than before, but I do wonder if I might retouch some of the spots that have become lighter with a bit of paint. Have any of you guys tried doing something of this kind?

Many thanks in advance!

[fohat]

I have always avoided touching up the surface.

The Model M case material is vastly superior to the Model F's, the only characteristic of the M that is better, in my opinion, being softer yet tougher and a single layer all the way through.

I have always felt that the F case has a "core" layer that is shiny and whiter, and a "skin" layer that is textured and slightly darker in tone. That "skin" layer will wear, chip, and peel eventually under use and abuse.

Personally, I have "just lived with it" because I am afraid that any attempt at "repair" would only draw attention to the problem area and make it worse.

And since for me, too, a wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag is my go-to primary cleaning method, I also discovered that it does seem to attack that outer layer on the F case. We learn things the hard way all too often.

I apologize that my non-answer does not help you.

[Cattus_D]

I have always avoided touching up the surface.

The Model M case material is vastly superior to the Model F's, the only characteristic of the M that is better, in my opinion, being softer yet tougher and a single layer all the way through.

I have always felt that the F case has a "core" layer that is shiny and whiter, and a "skin" layer that is textured and slightly darker in tone. That "skin" layer will wear, chip, and peel eventually under use and abuse.

Personally, I have "just lived with it" because I am afraid that any attempt at "repair" would only draw attention to the problem area and make it worse.

And since for me, too, a wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag is my go-to primary cleaning method, I also discovered that it does seem to attack that outer layer on the F case. We learn things the hard way all too often.

I apologize that my non-answer does not help you.

It does, actually. I wasn't sure what caused the whiter spots that appeared after I'd rubbed the case with alcohol, but your explanation sounds logical. I should probably stay off the paint on my Model F, too, although I might try rubbing with a bit of alcohol in a circular motion here and there - perhaps doing so would redistribute some of the darker paint.

Thanks!

*Oof, that space bar is heavy. I didn't want to mod it at first, but this way typing is not nearly as comfortable as on my other IBM keyboards. *

[fohat]

although I might try rubbing with a bit of alcohol in a circular motion here and there - perhaps doing so would redistribute some of the darker paint.

that space bar is heavy. I didn't want to mod it at first, but this way typing is not nearly as comfortable as on my other IBM keyboards.

Remember the old doctors' saying: first, do no harm.

I would recommend doing nothing - the chances of making it worse are great.

There are modifications to XT and AT space bars that lighten them, but you MUST take the keyboard completely apart to do it.

That is a serious challenge on these models.

[Cattus_D]

although I might try rubbing with a bit of alcohol in a circular motion here and there - perhaps doing so would redistribute some of the darker paint.

that space bar is heavy. I didn't want to mod it at first, but this way typing is not nearly as comfortable as on my other IBM keyboards.

Remember the old doctors' saying: first, do no harm.

I would recommend doing nothing - the chances of making it worse are great.

There are modifications to XT and AT space bars that lighten them, but you MUST take the keyboard completely apart to do it.

That is a serious challenge on these models.

I'll let you in on a secret - I accidentally already did it when I noticed striping on part of the plastic! I thought the striping was due to the cloth not absorbing all of the dirt at first. The plastic did look better afterwards, but there are definitely parts where doing the same would be very difficult (and having another go at them would very probably make matters worse) - they're more than just 'striped', now having genuine white spots.

And thank you for the warning about the spacebar. I had noticed it was difficult to get off, and therefore left it alone when I cleaned the board, but had no idea I would have to dismantle the keyboard completely in order to mod it.

[Wodan]

That heavy XT space bar is a major bummer. Took mine apart several times only to realize it's still too heavy for me.

In order to access the space bar properly, you need to take off all the keycaps (except for the space bar!) and take out the inner Plate/PCB assembly, bend open two locking latches and then slide the base plate off the top plate to reveal the flipper/barrel undersides. From here you can access the space bar stabilizer wire. Reassembly is a little tricky with the space bar flipper raised a little further than the rest. Some people use a little string of dental floss to hold it in place but I just whiggled it in every time. Getting the bottom plate into the hooks of the top plate is also quite a challenge

Still, you'll figure it out

[giokkk]

Here an excellent how to link for modding the spacebar in order to achieve the right actuation weight.
I did it on a IBM Model F AT and XT.

Works like a charm, now writing with a model F is a fully real pleasure!!

workshop-f7/model-f-improvement-dis-ass ... t6982.html

[Cattus_D]

Thanks guys! I'll consider doing that - or just train my thumb until it possesses superhuman strength!

I've given the problem with the paint some more thought. Acrylic paint might do the trick, too (I have some experience restoring vintage toys using acrylics). If I do indeed go ahead and paint over the white spots I'll post pics of the process and result.

[mike52787]

Thanks guys! I'll consider doing that - or just train my thumb until it possesses superhuman strength!

Eventually you get used to the heaviness if the spacebar, when I was usung mine it took me a few days to get used to it. after that its a piece of cake. just seems normal.

[Harshmallow]

Hey guys, I'm sorry to necro this aging thread, but I was looking for this exact topic and didn't really want to open a new thread for it. The paint is worn off of the bottom left corner of my F AT, and I just learned today that it is in fact paint - I originally thought that the plastic in the corner was just so worn by friction that it had become smooth/shiny. Anyways...the lighter colored surface underneath still has a nice texture and I don't mind the color at all - couldn't I just scrape/remove the rest of the paint with thinner or alcohol to make the keyboard uniform again? I mean, the keyboard sits in my basement apt, doesn't get any sunlight and hardly ever moves from the desk - is the paint really doing anything to protect it at this point? I'm only worried that the surface under the paint isn't a uniform color, or that the paint will be very hard to remove in some places and leave me with a patchy looking top cover. Thoughts?

[fohat]

I have always maintained that the Model F case has a shiny white "core" plastic and an off-white outer "skin" plastic.

In the construction world paint is considered as "film-forming", while stain is considered as "penetrating" but that is not entirely germane here. I would be hesitant to remove the outer layer - you might do better to simply prime it and paint it.

My results using "Dupli-Color Vinyl and Fabric Coating" (available in the US at auto supply stores) has worked very well for me but it is thin and does not fill in gaps with much thickness of its own.

[Engicoder]

I think PC/XT keyboard has a texture coating of some sort. The dust from sanding it is more reminiscent of a sprayed on paint like coating than anything plastic. The inner plastic is smooth with no texture. The early models have grey plastic cases under the textured coating which does not seem to glossy.

I agree that restoring this texture, especially on a small section would be quite difficult. It would be much better, as you say, to use a paint with very thin build up. I like the high quality art sprays like Molotow. They have great nozzles that emit a very fine mist that allows great control over layer thickness.

[Harshmallow]

Thanks for the responses guys! But check it out, I'm not too concerned about restoring the texture because as this picture shows, the texture underneath this 'coating' is the same. It literally looks like this slightly darker beige paint/latex film was applied over the lighter plastic, and it's the lighter colored plastic underneath that provide the texture. So my question is - because I can literally scrape this stuff off with a fingernail, as I've tested on this corner, couldn't I just scrape the rest off carefully and expect to end up with a still-textured keyboard of this color and texture?

ModelFSkin.jpg (737.77 KiB) Viewed 4010 times

[Cattus_D]

Thanks for the responses guys! But check it out, I'm not too concerned about restoring the texture because as this picture shows, the texture underneath this 'coating' is the same. It literally looks like this slightly darker beige paint/latex film was applied over the lighter plastic, and it's the lighter colored plastic underneath that provide the texture. So my question is - because I can literally scrape this stuff off with a fingernail, as I've tested on this corner, couldn't I just scrape the rest off carefully and expect to end up with a still-textured keyboard of this color and texture?

ModelFSkin.jpg

Interesting question. Are you sure it's the plastic that's providing the texture and not another layer of paint underneath the yellowish one?

I haven't tried restoring the paint of my Model F XT yet, but am contemplating using a thin layer of acrylic paint.

[Harshmallow]

Thanks for the responses guys! But check it out, I'm not too concerned about restoring the texture because as this picture shows, the texture underneath this 'coating' is the same. It literally looks like this slightly darker beige paint/latex film was applied over the lighter plastic, and it's the lighter colored plastic underneath that provide the texture. So my question is - because I can literally scrape this stuff off with a fingernail, as I've tested on this corner, couldn't I just scrape the rest off carefully and expect to end up with a still-textured keyboard of this color and texture?

ModelFSkin.jpg

Interesting question. Are you sure it's the plastic that's providing the texture and not another layer of paint underneath the yellowish one?

I haven't tried restoring the paint of my Model F XT yet, but am contemplating using a thin layer of acrylic paint.

It would seem quite strange to have a second layer of paint/coating - I'm almost positive that is the base plastic layer. I suppose I could scratch a tiny spot to make sure, but it looks and feels just like plastic - I don't see why the plastic cover couldn't provide the texture for this board instead of the paint layer. This is also the most modern F board, so maybe the plastic is different?

[Cattus_D]

Thanks for the responses guys! But check it out, I'm not too concerned about restoring the texture because as this picture shows, the texture underneath this 'coating' is the same. It literally looks like this slightly darker beige paint/latex film was applied over the lighter plastic, and it's the lighter colored plastic underneath that provide the texture. So my question is - because I can literally scrape this stuff off with a fingernail, as I've tested on this corner, couldn't I just scrape the rest off carefully and expect to end up with a still-textured keyboard of this color and texture?

ModelFSkin.jpg

Interesting question. Are you sure it's the plastic that's providing the texture and not another layer of paint underneath the yellowish one?

I haven't tried restoring the paint of my Model F XT yet, but am contemplating using a thin layer of acrylic paint.

It would seem quite strange to have a second layer of paint/coating - I'm almost positive that is the base plastic layer. I suppose I could scratch a tiny spot to make sure, but it looks and feels just like plastic - I don't see why the plastic cover couldn't provide the texture for this board instead of the paint layer. This is also the most modern F board, so maybe the plastic is different?

Please post your findings - I'd be very interested to know whether it's plastic or something else.