Model M disassembly
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
I just took the caps off of the model M I got from Ascaii and found this little flag or whatever. Can anybody tell me what it is? The bold-mod article didn't contain anything on disassembling.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Ground, to prevent you from electrocution and instant death while using a Model M. Only in keyboards from IBM UK, EU regulations and all.
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
Indeed. I think it's only found on newer model Ms. My UK-manufactured 1396790 (blue label) from 1995 has it while my 1390131 from 1986 (square silver label, also UK-manufactured) doesn't.webwit wrote:Ground, to prevent you from electrocution and instant death while using a Model M. Only in keyboards from IBM UK, EU regulations and all.
BTW, I highly doubt that this ground wire has any effect at all.
- nathanscribe
- Location: Yorkshire, UK.
- Main keyboard: Filco tenkeyless w/blues
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
You need a 5.5mm nut driver, which should be plentiful at your tool/model shop or regular electronics supplier of choice.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Alternative method:
Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.
Step 7: Break the pen, fail to open the Model M.
Step 8: Buy a 5.5mm nut driver.
Everyone can do it.
Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.
Step 7: Break the pen, fail to open the Model M.
Step 8: Buy a 5.5mm nut driver.
Everyone can do it.
-
- Location: Ugly American
- Main keyboard: As Long As It is Helvetica
- Main mouse: Mickey
- Favorite switch: Wanna Switch? Well, I Certainly Did!
- DT Pro Member: -
This trick works better for stealing bicycles with Kryptonite Locks:
http://www.engadget.com/2004/09/14/kryp ... a-bic-pen/
I'm sure this never happens in advanced cultures like the EU but it is a recurring problem in the crime ridden USA.
http://www.engadget.com/2004/09/14/kryp ... a-bic-pen/
I'm sure this never happens in advanced cultures like the EU but it is a recurring problem in the crime ridden USA.
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
5.5 mm or 7/32 inch. Actually, they are not that common in metric Europe. I see you're living in Germany; you could order one at Conrad:Icarium wrote:Okay, next step. Where do I find a damn screwdriver that will open this thing? *sigh*
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/8261 ... -STECKSCHL
- Gilgam
- Location: france
- Main keyboard: Too many
- Main mouse: CST trakball
- Favorite switch: red ?, maybe topre, well no, black... Or brown???
- DT Pro Member: -
I've ordered one from an autoshop in France and the nut driver is too large for the ssk hole.
For the Model m it fits only if you push strongly...
For the Model m it fits only if you push strongly...
- nathanscribe
- Location: Yorkshire, UK.
- Main keyboard: Filco tenkeyless w/blues
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
That's a good point - make sure the outer diameter of the head fits in the hole. You can get slimline ones. I suspect ones made for work on vehicles are designed to be rather more heavy duty...
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
Damn you, you crazy dutch prophet!webwit wrote:Alternative method:
Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.
Step 7: Break the pen, fail to open the Model M.
Step 8: Buy a 5.5mm nut driver.
]
1. It actually works. I was absolutely amazed.
2. As you predicted the damn pen broke exactly after 3 of the 4 screws.
BUT I eventually managed to do it again after cutting of pieces of the pen several times.
(Also note the free paperclip, thanks Ascaii!)
Pen: Giveaway
Lighter: 1 Euro
Poisoning myself with plastic fumes next to an open window at -10 degrees celsius because the dutch keyboard guru says so: PRICELESS
In other news, this is not the first pen that had to die for this model M:
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Here is another one:Gilgam wrote:I've ordered one from an autoshop in France and the nut driver is too large for the ssk hole.
For the Model m it fits only if you push strongly...
- Attachments
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- screwdriver4Model_M_002.jpg (43.11 KiB) Viewed 20095 times
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- screwdriver4Model_M_001.jpg (33.07 KiB) Viewed 20095 times
- Mrinterface
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: UHK
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Monterey blues
- DT Pro Member: 0012
Aaaarrrrggghhhhhhh.
I finally opened up one of my model M's by brute force because I could not find a 5,5 bolt driver..... I bought 2 bolt screwdrivers via the internet : 5 and 6 mm just to be sure I could open it, but I finally found out it's a 5,5 : these are very uncommon in the EU.
Should have checked the forum or asked in a post. I ultimately opened it up by drilling the holes since I am going to use it as a key donator board anyway.
Still got a question : how can I properly remove the metal plate from the assembly? Drill the holes?Any ideas? My hope is that if I remove the metal plate underneath the PCB I only have to cut some plastic in order to get what I want, but if the switch is attached to the metal plate in some way I might be in for a nasty surprise ( Waisted a perfectly functioning model M )
EDIT : I found some useful material here : http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:15277 . The guy drilled all the little holes apparently, I can see the springs have some kind of T-shaped plasticy thingy attached to it which is dangling loose. So I guess I have to somehow add something as a base to the switch in order for it to properly function. I guess nobody ever tried this before How to best cut the metal?
[excuse me for hijacking this thread, but the question in the OP was already answered.....]
Regards.
I finally opened up one of my model M's by brute force because I could not find a 5,5 bolt driver..... I bought 2 bolt screwdrivers via the internet : 5 and 6 mm just to be sure I could open it, but I finally found out it's a 5,5 : these are very uncommon in the EU.
Should have checked the forum or asked in a post. I ultimately opened it up by drilling the holes since I am going to use it as a key donator board anyway.
Still got a question : how can I properly remove the metal plate from the assembly? Drill the holes?Any ideas? My hope is that if I remove the metal plate underneath the PCB I only have to cut some plastic in order to get what I want, but if the switch is attached to the metal plate in some way I might be in for a nasty surprise ( Waisted a perfectly functioning model M )
EDIT : I found some useful material here : http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:15277 . The guy drilled all the little holes apparently, I can see the springs have some kind of T-shaped plasticy thingy attached to it which is dangling loose. So I guess I have to somehow add something as a base to the switch in order for it to properly function. I guess nobody ever tried this before How to best cut the metal?
[excuse me for hijacking this thread, but the question in the OP was already answered.....]
Regards.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Search for "5,5mm dopsleutel" and there are plenty. To remove the plate, shave off the rivets. After this you need a bolt mod to put the keyboard together again.
- Mrinterface
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: UHK
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Monterey blues
- DT Pro Member: 0012
- Mrinterface
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: UHK
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Monterey blues
- DT Pro Member: 0012
Just to add it to a switch try bag ( or maybe create a 4 cluster like ceesa is doing with his gaming switch try boards )Icarium wrote:Are you trying to add BS to a switch-try-board?
Regards.
-
- Main keyboard: Key Tronic KT2001
- DT Pro Member: -
The "flag" is a clip which attaches the static drain wire to ground. Static electricity can and does build up when skin is rubbed against plastic repeatedly (the thumb hitting the space bar). You think they put it there just for fun? Perhaps you'd enjoy frying your semiconductors or getting a static shock instead. ^_^Kurrk wrote:Indeed. I think it's only found on newer model Ms. My UK-manufactured 1396790 (blue label) from 1995 has it while my 1390131 from 1986 (square silver label, also UK-manufactured) doesn't.webwit wrote:Ground, to prevent you from electrocution and instant death while using a Model M. Only in keyboards from IBM UK, EU regulations and all.
BTW, I highly doubt that this ground wire has any effect at all.
I'm quite surprised noone else realised what this is for...
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Too obvious. Your troll on the marketplace was better.
-
- Main keyboard: Key Tronic KT2001
- DT Pro Member: -
This is not a troll, this is me getting involved. Can't win on this forumwebwit wrote:Too obvious. Your troll on the marketplace was better.
Static build up and needs to drain to earth: show me what part of that information is trolling.
Read part 1 of this article: http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880930.html
Then this: http://www.resistoflex.com/staticdischarge.htm
And this: http://www.explainthatstuff.com/howanti ... swork.html
You may be the keyboard experts, but even experts have gaps in their knowledge. It doesn't take much thinking to realise that a grounded copper conductor will drain away a surface charge of static electricity.
PS: The melting of a biro end and pressing it over the screw head also works *really* well for Nintendo SNES consoles etc... if you get it just right ---> http://www.flickr.com/photos/22008695@N ... 6112546735
- InSanCen
- Location: Wales, boyo, Baaaa...
- Main keyboard: M13 & AT102W
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Buckling Springs/Cherry Blues/Black Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
5.5mm Nut drivers, in the UK. Postage is £3/£4ish.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/6-piece-precisi ... set-223457
I use it on my M's, M13 and F.
I accept thanks in the form of blank BS keys...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/6-piece-precisi ... set-223457
I use it on my M's, M13 and F.
I accept thanks in the form of blank BS keys...
- shreebles
- Finally 60%
- Location: Cologne, Germany
- Main keyboard: FaceW 45g Silent Red /NerD60 MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech G303 / GPro (home) MX Anywhere 2 (work)
- Favorite switch: Silent Red, Old Browns, Buckling Spring,
- DT Pro Member: 0094
This is pure gold. Thanks guysIcarium wrote:Damn you, you crazy dutch prophet!webwit wrote:Alternative method:
Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.
1. It actually works. I was absolutely amazed.