It was a result of several good deals. Regarding the difference, they mostly feel the same, but one board (the one with the black switch plate) had notably enhanced spring echo sound.
Alps Appreciation
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
OK thanks for the info.
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
- Location: South-West Florida
- Main keyboard: G80-5000HAAUS
- Main mouse: Zowie EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Vintage MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0166
clueboard? cut an acryllic case and cut down a 101 plate? The real limiting factors in that statement is the cheap factor.ohaimark wrote:I'd like to build a cheap Alps TKL. I'm fine with form factors all the way down to 40%. Any recommendations?
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
My own favorites:
Form factor = 60%
Layout = HHKB. A workable compromise is a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn.
Your preferences may vary.
Form factor = 60%
Layout = HHKB. A workable compromise is a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn.
Your preferences may vary.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
So, my Alps64 board cost about $40 from Japan and a cheap Poker-compatible case cost $20. Cutting down an AEK II's plate with a band saw was free with my Techshop membership.
You could always order a KBparadise V60 with white Fukka/Fuhua Alps clones from mechanicalkeyboards.com for $99. That gets you mediocre switches and key caps, and a bottom row that is a challenge to fulfill with donor caps from vintage boards. For an additional $10 you could get Matias switches.
The very cheapest option would be to chop down an AEK II and hand wire the switches to a Pro Micro. This would be the first suggestion without the Alps64 PCB.
You could always order a KBparadise V60 with white Fukka/Fuhua Alps clones from mechanicalkeyboards.com for $99. That gets you mediocre switches and key caps, and a bottom row that is a challenge to fulfill with donor caps from vintage boards. For an additional $10 you could get Matias switches.
The very cheapest option would be to chop down an AEK II and hand wire the switches to a Pro Micro. This would be the first suggestion without the Alps64 PCB.
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
- Location: South-West Florida
- Main keyboard: G80-5000HAAUS
- Main mouse: Zowie EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Vintage MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0166
I got a KBP v60 from ebay for around 60$, desoldered it, and in process fucked the pcb. so, I got an alps64 pcb and with a little bit of modding it fit perfectly. If you do get a KBP v60, please be careful with the pcb when desoldering it. it's multi layer with a ground plane in the middle, and that makes it really hard to desolder.
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
Filco Zero TKL
Not sure if it is still there, at about $60, and normally an agent will charge 10% + shipping which is not too expensive.
https://2.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2007. ... 1372059346
Not sure if it is still there, at about $60, and normally an agent will charge 10% + shipping which is not too expensive.
https://2.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2007. ... 1372059346
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
That would be a deal! They seldom turn up, and easily go for 2X-3X that price.
- Mr.Nobody
- Location: China
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M/F
- Main mouse: Lenovo Big Red Dot
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Menuhin wrote: ↑Filco Zero TKL
Not sure if it is still there, at about $60, and normally an agent will charge 10% + shipping which is not too expensive.
https://2.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2007. ... 1372059346
Wow! How to link a 咸鱼 listing? Isn't it only accessible for cellphones?
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
Really don't know how to access those on a cellphone (probably need a China number), but I found that item on their search engine.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
All I get is a log-in screen:
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
It happens to me when I access TaoBao through different networks.
Some will redirect me to world.taobao.com and some requires login.
The reason is unknown.
Some will redirect me to world.taobao.com and some requires login.
The reason is unknown.
-
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Filco
- Main mouse: Steelseries
- Favorite switch: Futaba
- DT Pro Member: -
I saw this listing a long time ago. The image of the backside shows some scratches and torn off warranty sticker (so it is possible that its pcb is modified, or damaged if not handled carefully). Do you guys think it is still worth buying?Menuhin wrote: ↑Filco Zero TKL
Not sure if it is still there, at about $60, and normally an agent will charge 10% + shipping which is not too expensive.
https://2.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2007. ... 1372059346
- need
- Location: United Kingdom
- DT Pro Member: -
The description says it's a media evaluation unit used only for photo purposes.arkanoid wrote: ↑I saw this listing a long time ago. The image of the backside shows some scratches and torn off warranty sticker (so it is possible that its pcb is modified, or damaged if not handled carefully). Do you guys think it is still worth buying?Menuhin wrote: ↑Filco Zero TKL
Not sure if it is still there, at about $60, and normally an agent will charge 10% + shipping which is not too expensive.
https://2.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2007. ... 1372059346
However this obviously isn't a "media evaluation" unit that he claims to be, just look at how shiny those caps are
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
I was thinking of getting a KBP V60 with white Fukka/Fuhua switches and modifying them. For starters, I would like to swap out the top housings with housings from white (pine) Alps switches, but I have never worked with Fukka/Fuhua switches before, and I do not know if the top housings are interchangeable with those from SKCM Alps switches. Does anyone know if the top housings are interchangeable? From the pics in the DT wiki, it appears that the sliders and click leaves might be interchangeable, but I notice that the switch plate and contact leaves are of a different (simplified) design.XMIT wrote: ↑ <snip>
You could always order a KBparadise V60 with white Fukka/Fuhua Alps clones from mechanicalkeyboards.com for $99. That gets you mediocre switches and key caps, and a bottom row that is a challenge to fulfill with donor caps from vintage boards. For an additional $10 you could get Matias switches.
<snip>
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
I've got some here and will check when I have a chance, but, I doubt it.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Does anyone know if the top housings are interchangeable? From the pics in the DT wiki, it appears that the sliders and click leaves might be interchangeable, but I notice that the switch plate and contact leaves are of a different (simplified) design.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
Checked. Definitely not compatible. The Orange Alps switch top I tried seemed to be too "tall" and would not click in to the FD (Fuhua) bottom.XMIT wrote: ↑I've got some here and will check when I have a chance, but, I doubt it.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Does anyone know if the top housings are interchangeable? From the pics in the DT wiki, it appears that the sliders and click leaves might be interchangeable, but I notice that the switch plate and contact leaves are of a different (simplified) design.
Why not just go down the rabbit hole of desoldering? It's a useful life skill.
- rominronin
- Location: Vienna
- Main keyboard: Katana60
- Main mouse: Elecom HUGE
- Favorite switch: Cherry ergo clears, Zealios v1, prelubed linears
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
How is the Omnikey to use, with the navigation cluster in the middle like that?
Worth trying in a new board?
Worth trying in a new board?
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
- Location: South-West Florida
- Main keyboard: G80-5000HAAUS
- Main mouse: Zowie EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Vintage MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0166
Yeah, give it a shot, but expect to feel like throwing your romer gs in the garbage afterwards after you experience a real keyboardrominronin wrote: ↑How is the Omnikey to use, with the navigation cluster in the middle like that?
Worth trying in a new board?
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Thanks, XMIT! It is very useful to know that the Fukka/Fuhua switch tops are not exchangeable with those from SKCM Alps switches. Disappointing, but this knowledge saved me $100 and some frustration.XMIT wrote: ↑Checked. Definitely not compatible. The Orange Alps switch top I tried seemed to be too "tall" and would not click in to the FD (Fuhua) bottom.XMIT wrote: ↑I've got some here and will check when I have a chance, but, I doubt it.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Does anyone know if the top housings are interchangeable? From the pics in the DT wiki, it appears that the sliders and click leaves might be interchangeable, but I notice that the switch plate and contact leaves are of a different (simplified) design.
Why not just go down the rabbit hole of desoldering? It's a useful life skill.
Yes, I need to overcome my reluctance to do desoldering and soldering. It's not that I have never done it -- many years ago, I built a Heathkit stereo amplifier (vacuum tubes and everything!) that required a considerable amount of soldering. After the final component was soldered in place, I plugged in the amp, and it actually worked! Part of the problem today is that I no longer have a good workshop space for soldering. Nevertheless, I could create some makeshift space in my study and try to rehone the almost-lost skills of yesteryear . . . .
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I guess it depends — I like the fact that less tactile switches offer reduced obstruction to my fingers, and Alps switches are meant for strong fingers! Romer-G intrigues me — I won't diss it without giving it a try, as it might suit me nicely. Alps is up at the top when it comes to tactile (with some clones even more so) but I prefer something smoother.
Green Alps on the other hand, now those are enticing.
Green Alps on the other hand, now those are enticing.
- rominronin
- Location: Vienna
- Main keyboard: Katana60
- Main mouse: Elecom HUGE
- Favorite switch: Cherry ergo clears, Zealios v1, prelubed linears
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Lol, I have just updated my board/switch preferences to reflect my CURRENT usage. I hadn't updated my profile since I first registered!
Oh, and I'm here because I'm looking into a Matias build with aekii caps for my next custom board
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
The Northgate Omnikey 101 (ANSI, horizontal Enter key) was my first genuine Alps keyboard, purchased some time after owing a KBP V60 with Matias Quiet and another KBP V60 with Matias Click switches. I still enjoy the V60s, but now I prefer the smoother action and more refined sound of real Alps.rominronin wrote: ↑How is the Omnikey to use, with the navigation cluster in the middle like that?
Worth trying in a new board?
I like the Omni 101 with its SKCM white (pine) Alps switches, but after using 60% form factor boards with a HHKB layout, I find it difficult to use a full-size keyboard.
My future plans include building a custom 60% with white or blue Alps switches, using a Hasu Alps64 PCB, a custom-cut plate, and an aluminum case. I like the TEX cases, but I think they have some issues with diode placement in the Alps64, so I might go with a different brand of aluminum case.
- rominronin
- Location: Vienna
- Main keyboard: Katana60
- Main mouse: Elecom HUGE
- Favorite switch: Cherry ergo clears, Zealios v1, prelubed linears
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I can certainly sympathise; my wrists are so accustomed to split+rotated boards, that using 'ordinary' straight boards for any length of time can cause joint pain. Apart from the occasional laptop usage, I couldn't go back to a straight boardHypersphere wrote: ↑I like the Omni 101 with its SKCM white (pine) Alps switches, but after using 60% form factor boards with a HHKB layout, I find it difficult to use a full-size keyboard.
-
- Location: Cabnada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey Ultra
- Main mouse: Dell oldie
- Favorite switch: Micro Switch Hall effect
- DT Pro Member: -
I replaced all the main keys in an Omnikey Ultra with ALPS Green internals. I never use the numeric keypad nor the SFx keys so didn't bother with them, and the odd key I left as white/clicky, like the space bar and lock keys. I really like ALPS greens, they feel nice, have a nice sound, and are very reliable.
The Ultra has way too many keys! Was a lot more useful in the days before Windows/mice were common. A 60% form factor is a bit too small for me, but I do like some of the "80%" models, lots of decent choices now, more than ever quality keyboards accessible to the PC user.
The Ultra has way too many keys! Was a lot more useful in the days before Windows/mice were common. A 60% form factor is a bit too small for me, but I do like some of the "80%" models, lots of decent choices now, more than ever quality keyboards accessible to the PC user.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Does anyone here know if there is any other Alps keyboard with a layout like that of the Zenith 163-73 with a 1.5u Right Brace and 1.75u bottom-row mods? (See the pic below from the DT wiki):
w/images/8/84/Zenith-163-73-Front.JPG
w/images/8/84/Zenith-163-73-Front.JPG
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
- Location: South-West Florida
- Main keyboard: G80-5000HAAUS
- Main mouse: Zowie EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Vintage MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0166
The ZKB-2 and the ZKB-2r have the same layout.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Does anyone here know if there is any other Alps keyboard with a layout like that of the Zenith 163-73 with a 1.5u Right Brace and 1.75u bottom-row mods? (See the pic below from the DT wiki):
w/images/8/84/Zenith-163-73-Front.JPG