Really?!? I can't say I've noticed that with mine! In the case of any Topre keyboard that would be outrageous considering the Topre pricetag.czarek wrote: ↑...even Topre, which is no longer super smooth, especially on stabilized keys, keycaps have injection moulding marks, and Realforce cases have fading paint.
Cherry appreciation topic
- seebart
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- czarek
- Location: Działdowo, Poland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
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Which one have you got? Standard ones are not painted. I only noticed the new silent black keyboards that are not truly black but rather dark grey, colour perfectly matching the tone of keycaps, a bit similar to HHKB (which is not painted though). It's mostly fine, but I rubbed off this coating on the edges while typing on it within couple months of use.seebart wrote: ↑Really?!? I can't say I've noticed that with mine! In the case of any Topre keyboard that would be outrageous considering the Topre pricetag.czarek wrote: ↑...even Topre, which is no longer super smooth, especially on stabilized keys, keycaps have injection moulding marks, and Realforce cases have fading paint.
Mold / skirt marks on keycaps were there, but I could live with that. I used Unicomp keyboards in the past which were much worse than that and it didn't bother me at all. I still consider stock Topre keycaps to be possibly the best in business nowadays. Their new double shot translucent keys look just like ducky shine to me and I just can't stand the split labels:
And last thing which I didn't like was that the keyboard is not really as smooth as even some of the Cherry or Cherry clone switches. Same can be said about my HHKB, which I still keep regardless. Those Topres are not butter smooth, but they're not scratchy as some (if not most actually) new MX switches.
Overall I decided to sell this board. If not the fading grey coating, I would probably keep it as I loved typing and gaming on it.
Of course I'm looking to get a new silent Realforce but there are 2 problems. One is availability. In Europe I can only buy dark grey fading one (or get 2 boards and do a case swap), or import white one and pay almost twice as much. Second issue is that with white one I won't be able to replace windows/alt keys with HHKB ones as the colour doesn't quite match, and blanks from Topre are as easy to find as the holy grail.
- seebart
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87U and FC660C:czarek wrote: ↑Which one have you got?seebart wrote: ↑Really?!? I can't say I've noticed that with mine! In the case of any Topre keyboard that would be outrageous considering the Topre pricetag.czarek wrote: ↑...even Topre, which is no longer super smooth, especially on stabilized keys, keycaps have injection moulding marks, and Realforce cases have fading paint.
Spoiler:
- czarek
- Location: Działdowo, Poland
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Left CTRL on your Realforce looks like it's falling offseebart wrote: ↑ Honestly I cannot confirm any of those quality issues, I did own a HHKB in the past but it was too much of a flimsy board for me.
But I'm glad to hear you don't see any of those issues on a brand new white 87U. That's exactly the one I'm aiming for, or maybe the full size, don't care much as long as it's factory silenced. I'm not pulling a trigger until I find blank modifiers readily available though. Ideally in Europe where I can get VAT return, but that is just a wet dream, so for now I'll continue using what I have
- seebart
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My 87U is far from "brand new". I think you should go into quality control for Topre though. Have you ever seen a keycap "fall off" a Topre keyboard that was mounted properly? So is a factory silenced Topre keyboard silent enough for you?
- czarek
- Location: Działdowo, Poland
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LOL of course I was joking about this keycapseebart wrote: ↑My 87U is far from "brand new". I think you should go into quality control for Topre though. Have you ever seen a keycap "fall off" a Topre keyboard that was mounted properly? So is a factory silenced Topre keyboard silent enough for you?
If it's not a brand new then well, it's not really a proof that brand new white Realforces don't have the same issues as the dark ones.
- seebart
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You need better Topre jokes OK? ;P
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Corsair k70 rgb rapidfire
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- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
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I've used about three different switches (Cherry, Razer, and the QS1 switches from Steelseries) and I always prefer using the Cherry MX Switches. I don't know why but the feel and sound of the switches just appeals to me.
- Orpheo
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: Realforce 105UB uniform 45g
- Favorite switch: Topre
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Is that triple shots or pad printing? Looks like DS Bow not dyesub. Anyway this is stunning keycaps show!seebart wrote: ↑OK since we have this thread now might as well post the proper pics (again)...
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
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If they're vintage blues, keep the sliders. Change only the part that contains the contacts, and only if they loose their clickyness, and tactility.Orpheo wrote: ↑Mixed for my azerty needs (hermes typewriter) . Thanks to Wodan for the PCB! I might change the switches though as those are quite old blues. I like clears with slightly lighter springs!
And use the edit button please. (Bottom left corner on your post.
Nice baord, btw
I want a G80-3000 with Dubleshoot keycaps, but it costs more than I've got my keyboard collection for
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- Location: Germany
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My very first Cherry MX Switch was the Reds (Corsair K90). It was a huge upgrade for me as it feels way better than my rubber dome keyboard.
Since then, I tried two different Cherry MX Switches: the brown and the blues. I was instantly in loved with the Blues because of its sound and its feel on every key press. I just don't like the browns because I hate the way it sounds, although I do have to admit that it is still very soft and smooth to type on.
I just grew tired of the Cherry MX Switches and I bought a Razer Blackwidow X just to try. I still love the feel of the MX Blues, though. But, I will stick with the Razer keyboard for now because it has better game integration than the Cherry MX boards.
Since then, I tried two different Cherry MX Switches: the brown and the blues. I was instantly in loved with the Blues because of its sound and its feel on every key press. I just don't like the browns because I hate the way it sounds, although I do have to admit that it is still very soft and smooth to type on.
I just grew tired of the Cherry MX Switches and I bought a Razer Blackwidow X just to try. I still love the feel of the MX Blues, though. But, I will stick with the Razer keyboard for now because it has better game integration than the Cherry MX boards.
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- Location: Sioux Falls, SD, US
- Main keyboard: Clueboard 66/Zilents/Originative
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I was curious, does anyone have MOD switches/stems?? I've been looking for Clear/Zealio vs MOD switch comparisons. Does anyone have experience with them??
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- Location: New Jersey
- Main keyboard: Ergodox
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I mentioned MODs on the first page, I found he medium weight mods to be slightly more tactile then zealios. They are both good switches I would really just get the cheaper one if money is a concern.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SolidTek ASK-6600C
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Well after using my new AZIO-Retro keyboard with Cherry MX Blue clone switches for a couple of days, I have to say I really like these kind of switches. The noise doesn't bother me at all, but I live alone. Perhaps I'll take a look at Browns and Clears in case I ever live with someone or work in a office.
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
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Today, I can finally try Cherry MX Blue switches. My firend sent me 5 slidres, and 5 springs. I put it in my G80-1800, ASD, E, and Í. They are how should I say.. Linear clicky switches. That's what I feel. The tactile feedback is not that strong, but not bad either. Perfect for typing woithout bottoming out on the swiches, I can easily avoid bottoming out with them. Not bad overall. My MX Board 3 is still on the way. Somewere.. At least I hope...
- seebart
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- seebart
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Actually this one was more bleached or rather "retrobrighted". How much? Have a look:Wodan wrote: ↑You're cleaning jobs are the moistest!
Spoiler:
- thebluefox
- Location: Romania
- Main keyboard: Cherry MX 3000M CYA
- Favorite switch: Alps
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I would take them if you don`t like blues!Orpheo wrote: ↑Mixed for my azerty needs (hermes typewriter) . Thanks to Wodan for the PCB! I might change the switches though as those are quite old blues. I like clears with slightly lighter springs!
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
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Seebart is ridiculously good at cleaning. I thought I cleaned my Taran NMB pretty well, but he practically transformed it into a different board when he got it .Wodan wrote: ↑You're cleaning jobs are the moistest!
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
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I agree. (smiley with hearts over it's eyes)Wodan wrote: ↑You're cleaning jobs are the moistest!
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
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Hi guys.
My mx board 3 has finally arrived with mx blues. I cannot wait to test it for days.
My mx board 3 has finally arrived with mx blues. I cannot wait to test it for days.
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
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A bit of Cherry love for today
MX Board 3.0 with Blue switches, USB port failure prevented with a bigger solder blob. The best shitty board
MX Board 3.0 with Blue switches, USB port failure prevented with a bigger solder blob. The best shitty board
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- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
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Hello guys, I want to do a review of my MX Board 3.0. Can you give me this information? When did cherry announce Mx Blues?
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
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Early 80s afaik:
post369829.html#p369829
post369829.html#p369829
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
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Today... This is a sign!!!!