is bolt modding a model m with a hand drill something that can actually be done safely, assuming youre competent with a drill? i was thinking of asking a joiner i know to have a go at it for me, but i figure its best to ask around first.
also, ive heard that once stripped and disassembled a model m can be changed from ANSI to ISO because both model m keyboards have exactly the same layout, is this true? if so, would i be best buying an entire keycap set for this board, or should i just note which keycaps are different and buy those? one weird quirk of the keyboard im working with is that the keycaps do not have separate letter caps and plunger caps like other model ms do, but some of the caps have fn legends on account of it being an SSK.
bolt modding a model m with a hand drill, and swapping spring layouts
- bell peppers
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: based WMO
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- wobbled
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB300 Pro 1
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0192
I find it's easier to do it with a dremel as they are smaller and lighter to hold but a drill press would be your best option if you have the luxury. And yes you can modify the flipper arrangement to suit either ANSI or ISO as the underlying membrane sheets have an identical layout. Replacement full keycap sets are cheap enough to buy from unicomp but shipping will probably cost just as much as the keycap set since you're in the UK. Have a look on ebay for someone selling individual keycaps from an ISO M and buy the ones you need e.g. split left shift
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I wholeheartedly agree with this. You will need to drill the holes in an exact location and as close to vertical as possible.wobbled wrote: ↑
I find it's easier to do it with a dremel as they are smaller and lighter to hold but a drill press would be your best option
I put on my largest reading glasses and get in very close to ensure that I get it right. Using both hands on a Dremel tool with my elbows spread wide works well because I am pretty steady, but I don't think that I could do it with a heavy pistol-shaped drill whose center of gravity is inherently off-center to the actual axis of the drilling.
- Darkshado
- Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
- Main keyboard: WASD V2 MX Clears (work); M, F, Matias, etc (home)
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 (work), G502 + CST L-Trac (home)
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, SKCM Cream Dampened, MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: 0237
I had considered doing this with an AZERTY keyboard to convert it to French Canadian, but the amount of keys required killed that idea and I bought a whole set. I'm glad I did: the "ivory" caps are a reasonably close match, the grays not so much.bell peppers wrote: ↑would i be best buying an entire keycap set for this board, or should i just note which keycaps are different and buy those?
- shreebles
- Finally 60%
- Location: Cologne, Germany
- Main keyboard: FaceW 45g Silent Red /NerD60 MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech G303 / GPro (home) MX Anywhere 2 (work)
- Favorite switch: Silent Red, Old Browns, Buckling Spring,
- DT Pro Member: 0094
Is there no one you know that could lend you a cordless/electric drill for half an hour? If I didn't have such a tool I wouldn't attempt at all but that's just my 2 eurocents.
- bell peppers
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: based WMO
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
by hand drill i mean a hand held power drill. if all i had was an actual hand operated drill i wouldnt even consider it tbh.shreebles wrote: ↑Is there no one you know that could lend you a cordless/electric drill for half an hour? If I didn't have such a tool I wouldn't attempt at all but that's just my 2 eurocents.