The Oracle Answers
- DustGod
- Yet another IBM snob
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 6110344 "Battleship"
- Main mouse: Unbranded vertical mouse
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring | Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0196
O wise Oracle,
is there something fun and/or interesting to do with Selectrics- beside getting caps replacements for Beam springs or turn them into printers with unimaginable effort?
I own a non functioning one (something with the mechanism that controls the movement of the paper I think) and I have the chance to get two fully functional Selectrics for something like 15 to 20€ each.
is there something fun and/or interesting to do with Selectrics- beside getting caps replacements for Beam springs or turn them into printers with unimaginable effort?
I own a non functioning one (something with the mechanism that controls the movement of the paper I think) and I have the chance to get two fully functional Selectrics for something like 15 to 20€ each.
- 0100010
- Location: DFW TX, US
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 107
- Main mouse: Trackman FX
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh great oracle, do you know what the difference between pre July 2013 and post-July 2013 short unicomp spacebars is?
Judging from the pic in http://www.pckeyboard.com/mm5/graphics/ ... -25-13.pdf they seem the same. It seems they just shaved difference between old and new is 0,25U transfered between alt key and super key.
Also, it seems the size of the spacebar is 5,75U, correct?
Judging from the pic in http://www.pckeyboard.com/mm5/graphics/ ... -25-13.pdf they seem the same. It seems they just shaved difference between old and new is 0,25U transfered between alt key and super key.
Also, it seems the size of the spacebar is 5,75U, correct?
- 0100010
- Location: DFW TX, US
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 107
- Main mouse: Trackman FX
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Only 2 sizes of spacebars from Unicomp, 7x or 5.75x, old or new style.
Image :
KLE Raw :
[{a:7,w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},"",{w:5.75},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},""],
[{w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},"",{w:7},"",{w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},""],
[{w:1.5},"",{x:1,w:1.5},"",{w:7},"",{w:1.5},"",{x:1,w:1.5},""],
[{w:1.5},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:5.75},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.5},""]
Image :
KLE Raw :
[{a:7,w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},"",{w:5.75},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},""],
[{w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},"",{w:7},"",{w:1.5},"","",{w:1.5},""],
[{w:1.5},"",{x:1,w:1.5},"",{w:7},"",{w:1.5},"",{x:1,w:1.5},""],
[{w:1.5},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:5.75},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.25},"",{w:1.5},""]
- 0100010
- Location: DFW TX, US
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 107
- Main mouse: Trackman FX
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Wow! Yeah, got me there. Would open a support ticket with them and ask directly.
I am curious if they really have that Large Brilliant White spacebar though, at last check they said they didn't want to make them, citing a MOQ of like 7000 to even bother.
I am curious if they really have that Large Brilliant White spacebar though, at last check they said they didn't want to make them, citing a MOQ of like 7000 to even bother.
- Vax
- Location: /dev/null
- Main keyboard: Filco & Browns, Vintage Cherry Doubleshots
- Main mouse: Zowie FK, QCK+
- Favorite switch: Browns
- DT Pro Member: -
O' wise Oracle help me in my search for a new daily driver
For:
- Typical daily typing, Office stuff, Coding, Linux shells
- Afterwork gaming 2-3 hours every other night
Requirements:
- ISO!
- Full board no TKL
- RGB
- Topre/MX-Silent-Red/MX-Brown (in that order)
- Good quality
- Did I mention: ISO!
Dream Board:
- Topre Realforce RGB ISO (NOT AVAILABLE YET)
Candidates:
- Ducky Shine 6 RGB MX-Brown
- Corsair K70 LUX RGB MX-Silent-Red
- Corsair Strafe RGB MX-Silent-Red
Any other good alternatives?
For:
- Typical daily typing, Office stuff, Coding, Linux shells
- Afterwork gaming 2-3 hours every other night
Requirements:
- ISO!
- Full board no TKL
- RGB
- Topre/MX-Silent-Red/MX-Brown (in that order)
- Good quality
- Did I mention: ISO!
Dream Board:
- Topre Realforce RGB ISO (NOT AVAILABLE YET)
Candidates:
- Ducky Shine 6 RGB MX-Brown
- Corsair K70 LUX RGB MX-Silent-Red
- Corsair Strafe RGB MX-Silent-Red
Any other good alternatives?
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
Need some life advice. Should I buy a Vespa or a motorcycle? Motorcycle is cooler and garners more respect, but my heart seems set on owning a Vespa and it's more convenient. Thoughts, Oracle?
- The Keyboard Oracle
- The Answer Lies Within The Question
- DT Pro Member: -
The Keyboard Oracle has decided: That thee may retain thy self-respect, tis bett'r to displease the people by doing what thee knoweth is right, than to temp'rarily please those folk by doing what thee knoweth is wrong.
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
That's what I read as well, because both will please me. Unfortunately, I only have space for one.gogusrl wrote: ↑Translation : why not both ?
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Wrong translation, I thinkgogusrl wrote: ↑Translation : why not both ?
My own translation of the Oracle's advice: follow your inner voice, not the public opinion.
Or: go for Vespa, even if you are going to make a fool of yourself
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
That is another possible translation. But my inner voice is also telling me to get the motorcycle just to own one and see if I prefer it over a Vespa (as I have owned a scooter before and understand what I like/don't like). The ultimate solution is to buy a house with a big enough garage and own both.
This Oracle is one wise being.
- Nuum
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: KBD8X Mk I (60g Clears), Phantom (Nixdorf Blacks)
- Main mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB
- Favorite switch: 60g MX Clears/Brown Alps/Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0084
- DustGod
- Yet another IBM snob
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 6110344 "Battleship"
- Main mouse: Unbranded vertical mouse
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring | Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0196
O all-knowing Oracle,
time for a noon question. What is the best products/method to clean the case of IBM stuff (plastic case of M/F and metal case of the beamers)?
time for a noon question. What is the best products/method to clean the case of IBM stuff (plastic case of M/F and metal case of the beamers)?
- TuxKey
- LLAP
- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Leopold FC660C, Leopold FC660M mx-clears
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Trackpad, ducky Secret (PBT mouse)
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX-clear, Topre 45gr/55gr
- DT Pro Member: 0137
O' wise Oracle and mighty Oracle , desperately wanting to move my girl to a nice keyboard in the hope that she can appreciate this awesome hobby i seduced here by getting here a big monitor so she can dock here Lenovo laptop and got here a nice PBT mouse and for the time being she's using my FC660M with mx-clears (stock keycaps i think cherry profile).
she complained about two things.
1) to heavy.. and doesn't look nice with those dark grey keycaps.
easily fixed i ordered here a nice pink "Ducky MIYA Pro Sakura" with mx-browns.
(hasn't arrived yet expected December)
Almost forgot the keyboard i ordered is mentioned on the best keyboard forum ever of course ..DT
keyboards-f2/a-lovely-keyboard-of-varmi ... 17678.html
2) i can't type as fast, keep missing keys.. the keys are to far apart on my Lenovo keyboard i can type way faster.
That's where my question comes in..What am i to do???
so this is the famed laptop keyboard.. she normally types on
i looked at trying to get this keyboard as an external usb-keyboard but all i could find was a newer version and it's arround €65 a waist for a rubberdome / scissor type board i would say..
This is how it looks.
i was thinking perhaps a different key cap option could help?
The distance between the letters aka the gap between keys is rather large for someone with tiny hands.
i asked a similar question on slack a couple days ago.. and they pointed me to XDA profile /
i thought DSA profile would do the trick..
But the gap between the keys on XDA look smaller..
As i have no experience with both keycap set i thought i'l ask for your help..
i do know that getting XDA printed keycaps is not easy. DSA is a tad easier..
Or should i just grab the Lenovo external keyboard.. and hope it feels the same as here build in laptop keyboard.
And forget about switching here to a mechanical keyboard..
Your thoughts / advice is appreciated..
Almost forgot the keyboard i ordered is mentioned on the best keyboard forum ever of course ..DT
keyboards-f2/a-lovely-keyboard-of-varmi ... 17678.html
TuxKey.
she complained about two things.
1) to heavy.. and doesn't look nice with those dark grey keycaps.
easily fixed i ordered here a nice pink "Ducky MIYA Pro Sakura" with mx-browns.
(hasn't arrived yet expected December)
Almost forgot the keyboard i ordered is mentioned on the best keyboard forum ever of course ..DT
keyboards-f2/a-lovely-keyboard-of-varmi ... 17678.html
2) i can't type as fast, keep missing keys.. the keys are to far apart on my Lenovo keyboard i can type way faster.
That's where my question comes in..What am i to do???
so this is the famed laptop keyboard.. she normally types on
Spoiler:
This is how it looks.
Spoiler:
The distance between the letters aka the gap between keys is rather large for someone with tiny hands.
i asked a similar question on slack a couple days ago.. and they pointed me to XDA profile /
i thought DSA profile would do the trick..
But the gap between the keys on XDA look smaller..
As i have no experience with both keycap set i thought i'l ask for your help..
i do know that getting XDA printed keycaps is not easy. DSA is a tad easier..
Or should i just grab the Lenovo external keyboard.. and hope it feels the same as here build in laptop keyboard.
And forget about switching here to a mechanical keyboard..
Your thoughts / advice is appreciated..
Almost forgot the keyboard i ordered is mentioned on the best keyboard forum ever of course ..DT
keyboards-f2/a-lovely-keyboard-of-varmi ... 17678.html
TuxKey.
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
This is a strange but seemingly common misconception. Key spacing is standard, at 0.75 in (19.05 or 19.0 mm). The top surface of the keycap is typically 12–13 mm: 12 mm on my Poker II, 13 mm on my ThinkPad T43. For an island keyboard, the top surface will be wider, around 14–15 mm (14 and 15 mm measured from Trust and Apple keyboards respectively).
Her ThinkPad keyboard has the keycaps slightly more closely spaced than mine, but I figure that the keycap surface will be fairly standard width.
I'm wondering if the difference in key travel is causing trouble, if she is unaccustomed to using a full-travel keyboard. Conversely, I find trying to type on an Apple (Aluminium) Keyboard unsettling as it's as though my fingers aren't moving, and I can't feel anything. Compared to that typing on full travel might feel like your fingers are falling it a chasm. However, those wretched things are exceptionally nasty, and a ThinkPad keyboard should I hope offer a lot more tactility and more travel.
Also, MX Clear is … interesting. At first, it felt nothing like any other keyboard I'd ever used and it took some getting used to. Going back to clears recently felt nothing remotely like how I remember them, and it's not switch wear as the disused keys felt the same; trying to type on MX Clear after using MX Red for years was difficult.
I found the switch most conducive to typing to be Topre — something about that was just right. However, I still preferred the feel of Cherry.
Her ThinkPad keyboard has the keycaps slightly more closely spaced than mine, but I figure that the keycap surface will be fairly standard width.
I'm wondering if the difference in key travel is causing trouble, if she is unaccustomed to using a full-travel keyboard. Conversely, I find trying to type on an Apple (Aluminium) Keyboard unsettling as it's as though my fingers aren't moving, and I can't feel anything. Compared to that typing on full travel might feel like your fingers are falling it a chasm. However, those wretched things are exceptionally nasty, and a ThinkPad keyboard should I hope offer a lot more tactility and more travel.
Also, MX Clear is … interesting. At first, it felt nothing like any other keyboard I'd ever used and it took some getting used to. Going back to clears recently felt nothing remotely like how I remember them, and it's not switch wear as the disused keys felt the same; trying to type on MX Clear after using MX Red for years was difficult.
I found the switch most conducive to typing to be Topre — something about that was just right. However, I still preferred the feel of Cherry.
- Laser
- emacs -nw
- Location: Romania
- Main keyboard: Plum TKL \w Topre domes (work) / Novatouch (home)
- DT Pro Member: 0180
Does anyone (Oracle, or mortal) have something like a datasheet for the NMB Hi-tek Space Invader switch? (not the patent) One that shows dimensions, distance between pins etc. I am away from my keyboards for a few days, but I could use that info to learn some KiCAD.
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Talk to Engicoder — he's got a load of printed literature about Series 725. I don't know if any dimensions are in there, as I've not seen the documents.
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
The collective Oracle:
What is the best way to repair / fix a 0.5mm open-circuit damage to a circuit in a PCB?
Will a drop of solder be sufficient? After opening a bit on both ends with a scraper to expose the circuit (~1.5-2mm) for flux and tinning.
These damages (there are 2) are just right at the location where a switch will land.
What is the best way to repair / fix a 0.5mm open-circuit damage to a circuit in a PCB?
Will a drop of solder be sufficient? After opening a bit on both ends with a scraper to expose the circuit (~1.5-2mm) for flux and tinning.
These damages (there are 2) are just right at the location where a switch will land.
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
The classic and secure way of fixing that would be to find the solder spots at both ends of the broken path and solder in a piece of wire between them that bridges the gap.
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
Right, otherwise the solder may not hold securely. I can see the open circuit gap is smaller than a piece of sand, and I don't want to scratch more than 2mm expose on both sides of the open circuit.Halvar wrote: ↑The classic and secure way of fixing that would be to find the solder spots at both ends of the broken path and solder in a piece of wire between them that bridges the gap.
And I am using the Lidl 10€ (bought even used) solder with a not so sharp tip to fix that - will look for a used wire to strip for those < 0.5mm copper wire, preferably in the 0.1-0.25mm range, otherwise either the switch will not sit flush, or that for one broken trace that is supposed to be power supply so I don't want those 0.02mm wire.
-
- Location: Canada
- DT Pro Member: -
Try BKE Redux Heavy domes. They are around 60g of force with lots of tactility.wafflepc wrote: ↑Oh oracle, what is the best heavy switch with tons of tactility that is also easily obtainable?
-
- Location: Ithaca, NY, USA
- Main mouse: g502, kinda want a new one.
- Favorite switch: gateron Blue/Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
Topre? How do they compare to 'normal' mechanical switches and how easy is it to make custom boards?
edit: found people saying they were TOO tactile. That sounds like exactly what I want haha.