Round 5 and Round 6 kits for sale!
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes, that is correct.Luna wrote: ↑I thought SP was a company and SA a profile.
What he was saying was that if you don't mind trying a manufacturer other than SP, then MaxKeys in China also makes SA keycaps, and in fact they have a sorta-kinda-almost-but-not-really Honeywell colorway of their own called Ashen, which you actually have a reasonable chance of buying in the near future (presumably because they make new sets when there's enough demand).
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
Thanks, will keep an eye out for those as well.
But I think the problem with a set like that is that's it impossible to configure a Pure, Race or K68M with it.
Different size shiftkeys and spacebar immediately caught my attention and I'm sure there are many others.
How do you go about that?
Damn, this is hard the first time around ...
But I think the problem with a set like that is that's it impossible to configure a Pure, Race or K68M with it.
Different size shiftkeys and spacebar immediately caught my attention and I'm sure there are many others.
How do you go about that?
Damn, this is hard the first time around ...
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
What about SP DSA Honeywell?NMassa wrote: ↑If you don't stick to SP, I recommend Maxkey Ashen.
It is realistic alternative to get a full kit.
They are out of stock right now, I think It will be in stock in the near future.
Same looks no?
Is there a reason not to choose those?
- Griffy
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Lenovo
- Main mouse: Razr
- Favorite switch: clear
- DT Pro Member: -
Not other then DSA is another type (flat) and the legends are more modern. Not the same as trying to be accurate and true to the real honeywell, but a great set nonetheless and better then anyhing from normal stores and they will probably last a lifetime.
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Alternate layouts always present problems for keycap buyers. When you decide to use a non-standard layout, you are essentially resigning yourself to having very few custom keycap options. 7bit is unique in the sheer number of kits he provides; you won't find anyone else doing what he does. MassDrop sets usually have a kit or two designed to help alternate layout users, but you are always at the mercy of any given keyset designer to support your particular corner of bizarre.Luna wrote: ↑But I think the problem with a set like that is that's it impossible to configure a Pure, Race or K68M with it.
Different size shiftkeys and spacebar immediately caught my attention and I'm sure there are many others.
How do you go about that?
Damn, this is hard the first time around ...
I personally avoid these issues by only using keyboards that are based on the ANSI standard layout.
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
Indeed. I use ANSI only as well though, usually US and if I can't find that then US International.zslane wrote: ↑ Alternate layouts always present problems for keycap buyers. When you decide to use a non-standard layout, you are essentially resigning yourself to having very few custom keycap options. 7bit is unique in the sheer number of kits he provides; you won't find anyone else doing what he does. MassDrop sets usually have a kit or two designed to help alternate layout users, but you are always at the mercy of any given keyset designer to support your particular corner of bizarre.
I personally avoid these issues by only using keyboards that are based on the ANSI standard layout.
I don't lke the ISO qwerty's and certainly hate the local AZERTY here.
But I was talking about the 60-65% boards with their different shift keys and spacebars.
- justcallmecrash
- Location: Greensboro, NC, USA
- Main keyboard: ErgoDox 80g Blacks (home); Ergodox Browns (work)
- Main mouse: Logitech M570/Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX 80g Black (NovelKeys pale blues, too)
- DT Pro Member: -
As someone typing Dvorak on ErgoDox boards (current count: 5) - your words ring painfully true. That said, I have managed to accumulate a respectable number of sets: DangerZone, Borealis, Canvas, Yuri, and some plain blanks sets, as well as the incoming GMT Lazer set. Granted, it does cost a friggin' fortune, but that's the hobby, amirite?zslane wrote: ↑Alternate layouts always present problems for keycap buyers. When you decide to use a non-standard layout, you are essentially resigning yourself to having very few custom keycap options. 7bit is unique in the sheer number of kits he provides; you won't find anyone else doing what he does. MassDrop sets usually have a kit or two designed to help alternate layout users, but you are always at the mercy of any given keyset designer to support your particular corner of bizarre.Luna wrote: ↑But I think the problem with a set like that is that's it impossible to configure a Pure, Race or K68M with it.
Different size shiftkeys and spacebar immediately caught my attention and I'm sure there are many others.
How do you go about that?
Damn, this is hard the first time around ...
I personally avoid these issues by only using keyboards that are based on the ANSI standard layout.
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
I'm actually looking for a great +/-60% board with cursor arrows and with or without the extra right row but found all kinds of options. Let's say i can't see the forest through the trees anymore.
So what board/keyboard can you advise me for a cursor (+ right row or not) layout.
Or are there any other well respected layouts with cursor arrows?
Or do most people here simply prefer TK boards?
As I said ... forest ... woods ...
So what board/keyboard can you advise me for a cursor (+ right row or not) layout.
Or are there any other well respected layouts with cursor arrows?
Or do most people here simply prefer TK boards?
As I said ... forest ... woods ...
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Well, to my mind, a layout that has anything but 2.25u and 2.75u Shift keys and a 6.25u spacebar isn't ANSI anymore. It is some alternate variant, and you are now in the position of having to scour the Internet for oddball kits or loose keycaps that will just happen to fit those needs.
A proper ANSI 60% board is simply the main 61-key alpha block of a normal full-size 104/108 ANSI keyboard (ala Pok3r). Most 68-key variants try to jam a bunch of keys from a TKL onto the side of a normal 60% board and usually involve PgUp/PgDn keys of non-standard row profiles, and so on. I avoid those completely since they require too many non-standard keys and they are too wide to match up with my iPad in any case. However, I agree that arrow keys are too useful to do without, and so I use a Pok3r layout where the arrow keys are achieved through Fn+IJKL (where I assign Fn to the CapsLock key; chording for the arrows is very easy with this configuration).
However, you will often find modern keycap sets designed to work with boards like the WhiteFox, and so those alternate navcluster keys can usually be found in one of the child kits. For 7bit's kits you just have to look at all the child kits and pay close attention to the row profiles assigned to each key to figure out which ones you'll need to outfit your alternate layout.
A proper ANSI 60% board is simply the main 61-key alpha block of a normal full-size 104/108 ANSI keyboard (ala Pok3r). Most 68-key variants try to jam a bunch of keys from a TKL onto the side of a normal 60% board and usually involve PgUp/PgDn keys of non-standard row profiles, and so on. I avoid those completely since they require too many non-standard keys and they are too wide to match up with my iPad in any case. However, I agree that arrow keys are too useful to do without, and so I use a Pok3r layout where the arrow keys are achieved through Fn+IJKL (where I assign Fn to the CapsLock key; chording for the arrows is very easy with this configuration).
However, you will often find modern keycap sets designed to work with boards like the WhiteFox, and so those alternate navcluster keys can usually be found in one of the child kits. For 7bit's kits you just have to look at all the child kits and pay close attention to the row profiles assigned to each key to figure out which ones you'll need to outfit your alternate layout.
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
@zslane
I took a good look at the Poker and Race keyboards compare to the 60% and 65% ones with arrows.
Indeed, the left shift and anything next to or below the right shift is messed up. Some even play with a HHKB style delete.
I'll have to get used to the arrows being on a different layer, won't be that hard as I love to try out different variants anyway. They won't all be candiates to classify for a daily driver of course. I got in the Planck Massdrop just in time yesterday but I can hardly see that one become my daily driver.
I wonder about your function key though.
The left shift, ok, but what do the white and black arrows do on the bottom right then? Different layers?
And what about brands?
Is Vortex considered a good quality brand in the 60% category or is there better?
Varmilo? Or some of those different GB project brands I see?
I took a good look at the Poker and Race keyboards compare to the 60% and 65% ones with arrows.
Indeed, the left shift and anything next to or below the right shift is messed up. Some even play with a HHKB style delete.
I'll have to get used to the arrows being on a different layer, won't be that hard as I love to try out different variants anyway. They won't all be candiates to classify for a daily driver of course. I got in the Planck Massdrop just in time yesterday but I can hardly see that one become my daily driver.
I wonder about your function key though.
The left shift, ok, but what do the white and black arrows do on the bottom right then? Different layers?
And what about brands?
Is Vortex considered a good quality brand in the 60% category or is there better?
Varmilo? Or some of those different GB project brands I see?
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
On a Pok3r, the two keys with the white triangle are FN, and the key with the black triangle is the PN (program) key. On the Plum Nano 75 shown in the photo, the white triangles are still FN, but the black triangle key is just a normal "Meta" (or "Menu") key, and in fact I replaced that keycap with a META keycap some time after taking that photo.
So when I want to use the arrows, I hold down left-FN with my left pinky and then navigate using IJKL with my right hand. This is even easier and faster than moving my hand off the alpha block and over to the arrow keys on a conventional navcluster like you'd find on a TKL or full-size board.
I think the Vortex Pok3r is the best off-the-shelf MX-based 60% board available. However, I don't use MX switches anymore, so I don't use my Pok3rs anymore; I've replaced them all with Plum Nano 75s. I wouldn't use these as main drivers for use with a desktop PC, but for use with toy computers like my iPad, small toy-like boards such as these are just right.
So when I want to use the arrows, I hold down left-FN with my left pinky and then navigate using IJKL with my right hand. This is even easier and faster than moving my hand off the alpha block and over to the arrow keys on a conventional navcluster like you'd find on a TKL or full-size board.
I think the Vortex Pok3r is the best off-the-shelf MX-based 60% board available. However, I don't use MX switches anymore, so I don't use my Pok3rs anymore; I've replaced them all with Plum Nano 75s. I wouldn't use these as main drivers for use with a desktop PC, but for use with toy computers like my iPad, small toy-like boards such as these are just right.
-
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2 Type S
- Main mouse: Logitech G303
- DT Pro Member: -
Ooo, my order has moved to packed, exciting!
-
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2 Type S
- Main mouse: Logitech G303
- DT Pro Member: -
Nope, wasn't listed on the last list
As an aside, I'm still looking for a HONEYB/SHIFT175/GREY so if anyone has a spare I'd love to either buy it or trade some caps for it
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
If you placed an order for some leftovers, does it take long before it ships?
And also about round7: if you order now, do you pay the full amount right now even if shipping might still be some years away?
And also about round7: if you order now, do you pay the full amount right now even if shipping might still be some years away?
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Shipping of available leftovers is subject to a number of factors:
1. When 7bit gets around to packing the order.
2. When 7bit has the funds to ship, followed by
3. When 7bit decides to ship your order amidst all the other orders waiting to be shipped.
None of those three are predictable in any way, shape, or form. It could take a few days, or it could take a few months.
As for Round 7, you really only need to pay when 7bit announces he is going to clear people's unpaid orders. I would guess you have many, many months to go before that will happen.
1. When 7bit gets around to packing the order.
2. When 7bit has the funds to ship, followed by
3. When 7bit decides to ship your order amidst all the other orders waiting to be shipped.
None of those three are predictable in any way, shape, or form. It could take a few days, or it could take a few months.
As for Round 7, you really only need to pay when 7bit announces he is going to clear people's unpaid orders. I would guess you have many, many months to go before that will happen.
- Luna
- Alt255
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: daily rotation
- Main mouse: daily rotation
- Favorite switch: Tealio
- DT Pro Member: 0199
I saw when I ordered tacked shipping 7bot atomatically added it to the order I already had.
What happens now when I make an order for round7? Does it get added as well?
Or how can one make a new, separate order? Different subject for the PM?
What happens now when I make an order for round7? Does it get added as well?
Or how can one make a new, separate order? Different subject for the PM?