Stuff you just bought
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
Yes, white Alps are kinda nice switches, but the blue SMK switches that Monterey used in a lot of these boards are indeed an absolute favourite of mine.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
Not sure why people always say potato quality. It's plenty clear and unless you are shooting on a mid-2000s flip phone it's pretty hard to mess a picture up.
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah, I would have been happy with blue smk alps mount or blue alps, as this keyboard can be found with both. Still happy with white alps, I just have a few white alps boards, so its nothing new.Halvar wrote: ↑Yes, white Alps are kinda nice switches, but the blue SMK switches that Monterey used in a lot of these boards are indeed an absolute favourite of mine.
Just finished desoldering and disassembling the switches for ultrasonic cleaning. Out of curiosity, anyone know of something that will remove pen marks without damaging the plastic?
- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
If the pen marks are ball point try the Mr. Clean scrub pads from the grocery store. I know, it sounds stupid, but they actually work and don't seem to damage anything. Saved us repainting the walls after an artistic excursion by the grandkid.rich1051414 wrote: ↑ Yeah, I would have been happy with blue smk alps mount or blue alps, as this keyboard can be found with both. Still happy with white alps, I just have a few white alps boards, so its nothing new.
Just finished desoldering and disassembling the switches for ultrasonic cleaning. Out of curiosity, anyone know of something that will remove pen marks without damaging the plastic?
- E3E
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Blue, Neon Green, Striped Amber, Cream Alps, Topre
- Main mouse: Logitech, Topre
- Favorite switch: Alps, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Be careful with the Mr. Clean Magic Erasers. They can wear away the finish/texture/printing on a case. They're just a very mild abrasive that usually breaks down stains/marks before it ruins the finish.
I'd recommend isopropyl alcohol at a strong concentration to work out marker and stuff. Most logos are resistant to alcohol, but I would be very careful to keep it away from logos/badges, just in case. I sometimes dip a magic eraser in the alcohol and use that, and it works really well, but again... if it's not coming off with the eraser, stop.
If you keep going you're going to end up with a shiny spot where you took texture off. Some marks and scuffs can be deeper than the surface for whatever reason.
I'd recommend isopropyl alcohol at a strong concentration to work out marker and stuff. Most logos are resistant to alcohol, but I would be very careful to keep it away from logos/badges, just in case. I sometimes dip a magic eraser in the alcohol and use that, and it works really well, but again... if it's not coming off with the eraser, stop.
If you keep going you're going to end up with a shiny spot where you took texture off. Some marks and scuffs can be deeper than the surface for whatever reason.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Brilliant advice.E3E wrote: ↑ I'd recommend isopropyl alcohol at a strong concentration to work out marker and stuff. Most logos are resistant to alcohol, but I would be very careful to keep it away from logos/badges, just in case. I sometimes dip a magic eraser in the alcohol and use that, and it works really well, but again... if it's not coming off with the eraser, stop.
If you keep going you're going to end up with a shiny spot where you took texture off. Some marks and scuffs can be deeper than the surface for whatever reason.
I have used Eucalyptus Oil as a cleaner BUT on it's own it's quite powerful, ideal for removing heavy grime and grease off metal parts (true, I love using it because it's gentle on my hands).
Although I have used Eucalyptus Oil on Model M cases that looked like they where swimming in toxic effluent. Cleans them up nicely and leaves that nice bushy/forest type smell behind.
Also tried Emu Oil as well another very potent cleaner that removes anything oil based from any surface.
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
Strong isopropyl alcohol on ABS is not a good idea, it can spoil the surface. I would only use it if other means are unsuccessful. E.g. ballpen marks are quite easy to remove with a bath in denture cleaners and a soft scrub.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
On the other hand, I had keys that were damaged by denture cleaners. They fortunately weren't that important to me, but it kind of turned me off using them further.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Cleaning pen can be a pain.
Some pen is just basically dye so it will soak into the plastic and will stain it. With this all you can do it hope that its not too deep and it can be removed with IPA etc.
Other pen just sits on the surface and whist hard to remove it will come off with cleaning.
I find biological washing powder to be quite good with some sort of solvent added like IPA ( but not too much). Denture tabs are fine but can be expensive and a bit strange to keep around , a bottle of 99% IPA will last you ages as you only need to add a little , and you should be buying biological washing powder if you want your clothes clean anyway.
Some pen is just basically dye so it will soak into the plastic and will stain it. With this all you can do it hope that its not too deep and it can be removed with IPA etc.
Other pen just sits on the surface and whist hard to remove it will come off with cleaning.
I find biological washing powder to be quite good with some sort of solvent added like IPA ( but not too much). Denture tabs are fine but can be expensive and a bit strange to keep around , a bottle of 99% IPA will last you ages as you only need to add a little , and you should be buying biological washing powder if you want your clothes clean anyway.
-
- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
I have removed most of it, but some of it is deep. I am going to try again this weekend, and will try a few different things recommended. Even slightly damaged plastic will look better than random scribbles, so I'll take that as an excuse to experiment.andrewjoy wrote: ↑Cleaning pen can be a pain.
Some pen is just basically dye so it will soak into the plastic and will stain it. With this all you can do it hope that its not too deep and it can be removed with IPA etc.
Other pen just sits on the surface and whist hard to remove it will come off with cleaning.
I find biological washing powder to be quite good with some sort of solvent added like IPA ( but not too much). Denture tabs are fine but can be expensive and a bit strange to keep around , a bottle of 99% IPA will last you ages as you only need to add a little , and you should be buying biological washing powder if you want your clothes clean anyway.
- TheNacho
- delicious.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: GMMK Pro
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: uncertain
- DT Pro Member: 0078
- Contact:
I just got an Ergodox in a trade, and boy, it really takes some getting used to. Now I finally know, how shitty my typing technique is
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
This is my primary issue with "ergonomical" keyboards. Not only is there a learning curve that will often cause you to contort your hands in strange ways, but there's little evidence that they are actually any better physiologically as compared to a standard layout.TheNacho wrote: ↑how shitty my typing technique is
- TheNacho
- delicious.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: GMMK Pro
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: uncertain
- DT Pro Member: 0078
- Contact:
I just wanted to give it a try, so here we go
Now I just need to see, if I can get my brain to get used to this thing, or not
Now I just need to see, if I can get my brain to get used to this thing, or not
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- Location: CZ
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage2, JIS ThinkPad,…
- Main mouse: I like (some) trackballs, e.g., L-Trac
- Favorite switch: #vintage ghost Cherry MX Black (+ thick POM caps)
- DT Pro Member: -
Got this Chieftec tower last weekend. It supposedly weighs 17 kilos. Cherry G80-1000 for scale.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes, I have one model which was done in a beige combo finish. It is a decent case with loads of storage (HDs) and ample motherboard support inside. With all the hardware installed expect it to all weigh over 40 - 50kgs.davkol wrote: ↑Got this Chieftec tower last weekend. It supposedly weighs 17 kilos. Cherry G80-1000 for scale.
Only downside, restricted air outlets within it. I just loved it for the shear weight of it, you can't pinch this PC when it's running. Any thieves would need to either be running in pack or be like young Mr Schwarzenegger, to carry it away down the street.
PC theft was big in the area where I grew up in.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
I have the NZXT S340 which is plenty heavy on its own. I'd guess it probably weighs a good 20-30 lbs (10-15kg) which is still more than too much for any average theft. Any intelligent thief would steal my keyboards and resell them for $200-300/piece.
- cookie
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: MX Master
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
davkol wrote: ↑Got this Chieftec tower last weekend. It supposedly weighs 17 kilos. Cherry G80-1000 for scale.
That tower was the hottest thing when I was 15. Reminds me of the good old LAN days
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- Location: CZ
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage2, JIS ThinkPad,…
- Main mouse: I like (some) trackballs, e.g., L-Trac
- Favorite switch: #vintage ghost Cherry MX Black (+ thick POM caps)
- DT Pro Member: -
That monstrosity fits under my desk only sideways… barely, while I also have to tilt it first. It can't be on the desk either, because of the slanted ceiling (the joys of living in the attic).
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
Is it actually legal living in the attic? Most places in the US are banned from the attic IIRC.
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- Location: CZ
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage2, JIS ThinkPad,…
- Main mouse: I like (some) trackballs, e.g., L-Trac
- Favorite switch: #vintage ghost Cherry MX Black (+ thick POM caps)
- DT Pro Member: -
That's never occurred to me around here, but keep in mind that Central Europe is about as far north as the USA's northern border. Perhaps some regulations concerning ventilation do exist… there's always a window from what I've seen.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Back onto Keyboards here;
Just paid and ordered this baby off WASD: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... board.html
Picked the MOD-H 62g all WHITE casing model. It goes with their GMK key-set being offered there.
I've got several of their older all black casing keyboard models but this will be my first all White case keyboard from them.
Just paid and ordered this baby off WASD: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... board.html
Picked the MOD-H 62g all WHITE casing model. It goes with their GMK key-set being offered there.
I've got several of their older all black casing keyboard models but this will be my first all White case keyboard from them.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
My order from Japan has grown larger than I had intended... I set aside around $1000 in order to buy stuff and resell but I'm about $100 from the limit and that's without international shipping... Hopefully reselling the old systems I bought will be worth it though (fully working NEC PC-9801V, anyone?).
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
The first of many packages that will be on their way to me soon. All Japanese versions of the NES and SNES (Super Famicom), including some that were not officially licensed .
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
I bought this collection of switches all for $20 on eBay with shipping. Includes 2 brand new beam spring replacement modules.
- nsmechkb
- Location: ON, CA
- Main keyboard: W: FC660C H: Model F AT
- Favorite switch: Maybe Capacitive Buckling Springs.
- DT Pro Member: 0202
Nice! I looked at this when it popped up--specifically for beamspring modules--and missed the two in that plastic cylinder. Would be interested to hear how you feel they compare to some of your used modules.JP! wrote: ↑I bought this collection of switches all for $20 on eBay with shipping. Includes 2 brand new beam spring replacement modules.
- Iggy
- Main keyboard: Black IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: I dunno.
- DT Pro Member: -
Should Ellipse ever do a F122 I hereby solemnly swear I will buy two of them. Period.
- gogusrl
- Location: Romania
- Main keyboard: Cherry G80-1851
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: linear stuff
- DT Pro Member: -
Flea market loot (haven't posted this in a while).
While "browsing" the flea market I noticed a really nice women's Seiko but I was short on cash so I took the guy's number hoping he won't sell it. Called him today, went to buy the watch and he had another Seiko Kinetic for a WTF price so I bought that as well.
TLDR : more shit I bought
edit : after some googling check this out : https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 5573.m1684
While "browsing" the flea market I noticed a really nice women's Seiko but I was short on cash so I took the guy's number hoping he won't sell it. Called him today, went to buy the watch and he had another Seiko Kinetic for a WTF price so I bought that as well.
TLDR : more shit I bought
edit : after some googling check this out : https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 5573.m1684