tron wrote: ↑Regarding the flip out panel. I'm wondering if a professional company could scan/3-D print a suitable replacement (it may be expensive but I have no idea). Hopefully the switch plate protected the pcb. I'm willing to bet the caps and switches absorbed most of the heat from the liquid.
If I do have it replaced, I'll likely have the local metal shop do it. I know the guys and they are skilled enough to get it right (and they'd probably give me a good deal, too). The listing claims that it will not stay shut.
This could be because of the booklet protruding too much or the door could be warped from the damage.*** If the door is warped it would not be a good candidate for 3D scanning since it's not the correct shape and any 3D print of it would be just as warped. If it is not warped, I could sand and repaint it, although it won't change the fact that it is still plastic.
Regarding 3D scanning it, the local maker space has a compositing method that uses an ordinary camera and a highly controlled space for lighting. The local college's maker space has a dedicated 3D scanner. The compositing method works quite a bit better for capturing fine detail, but takes significantly more time. Given that this is a simple object, it would be far simpler and more accurate to measure the original and make a new model in CAD. And 3D printing it would be plenty doable once you have the 3D model. You would need to take care that it doesn't warp when printing, though. Large, thin pieces have a tendency to do that in most of the 3D printers I've used.
***[Edit: Turns out, the door on 3278s is
spring loaded. The tab that holds the door in place is likely just broken. Now
that's something I might go through the effort to try to 3D print.]
