Some turd trying to bolt mod a Model M.

Iggy · 05 Apr 2018, 19:35

Many moons ago I bought a 122-key Model M from eBay and somehow I got the freaky idea of attempting to bolt-mod the thing. I enjoy reading workshop topics so why not make one yourself? For the record, I have no previous experience with this sort of thing and the attempt was no more but an experiment.

Here's the victim in question before the attack;

Spoiler:

While the keyboard was far more dirty than the pictures reveal, it is quite free of damage.

First thing was to order the required bolts and screws. I purchased them from http://www.screwsandmore.de.

Spoiler:

Second thing on the agenda was to take it apart and clean it. Nothing more awful than a dirty board, amirite? I cleaned all 122 keys by hand with alcohol and petrol. I let both cases soak in water and soap.

Spoiler:

Third was to remove those &*$@&!!($#%* rivets. I tried a cutter but ended up using a chisel that was more effective.

Spoiler:

Only after this could I clean the plastic barrel plate easier. The metal back plate was up next and I gave it a nice primer coat after cleaning.

Spoiler:

Oh, by the way, I ruined the metal plate sticker. Burn me, please.

Next was the most arduous job of removing the rivet remains and drilling the holes. Easy, right? Not when this epic klutz can help it! I attempted to prepare the drilling holes with an awl but that proved just too problematic. I used an oversized solder to smooth out the rivet's surface (picture of that above). That made the drilling a lot easier! Despite that, some of the holes didn't came out right, the assembling process will point out how much of a hinder this is.

Spoiler:

With my Amazon order finally in did I started on the actual bolting of the Model M. That job started last night and only just now did I finish it.

Spoiler:

Then it was time to discover that the bolts (screws actually) from the lower region of the backplate had to be replaced by ones with a flatter head, otherwise the keyboard wouldn't fit properly inside the lower case. Then it was reinstalling the controller and assembling the rest. After connecting the keyboard with Soarer'converter to my laptop did the grand moment arrive.

IT ACTUALLY WORKS!!! THIS FAGGOT DID IT!

Okay, now with less adrenaline in your blood. I left the rubber mat out and yes, the noise got ten times stronger. Not all keys feels 100% perfect, the letter S and M don't feel quite right. Needless to say, I wasn't expecting things to go this smooth. Now what to do with the thing.

j0d1 · 05 Apr 2018, 21:26

Good job! Did you left the rubber mat out on purpose?

Which paint did you use for the coating?
On a Model M restoration that I did, I used Rust-Oleum flat gray cold galvanizing spray paint and it worked very well.

I also ruined the metal plate sticker on that restoration... those things are just too hard to remove in one piece.
I'm starting a M122 restoration and I will probably remove the metal plate sticker too so I can put the coating, unless someone has an easy way to remove/preserve that sticker?

fohat · 05 Apr 2018, 23:52

Iggy wrote: ↑
I cleaned all 122 keys by hand with alcohol and petrol. I let both cases soak in water and soap.

I tried a cutter but ended up using a chisel that was more effective.

I attempted to prepare the drilling holes with an awl but that proved just too problematic.

Personally, I prefer a soak in hot water and powdered laundry detergent, with a bit of Oxi-Clean optional. After that, a rinse is usually all that is required.

An Xacto knife with chisel blade is my preferred rivet-cutter, and a fresh chisel blade to shave the tops of the "mesas" perfectly flat.

If you used a heavy pistol-shaped drill then you really had a chore. I use a Dremel that I can hold with both hands and steady myself with my elbows, and I set it at the lowest possible speed.

My choice for starter divots is the smallest spherical burr bit for the Dremel.

002 · 06 Apr 2018, 07:38

Nice.
I am going through this process at the moment too on an SSK.
I am at the point where I'm ready to drill the holes in the barrel plate. I think I might've fucked up but I'm not sure; I've dremeled down the plastic rivet posts where you're supposed to drill through -- either side of those posts are some sort of surrounding plastic 'C' / bracket shaped pieces which I *believe* serve the purpose of holding the membrane layers etc in place but im not sure...anyway I think I dremeled them down too without even thinking about it so I've probably fucked it

Can you even get replacement SSK barrel plates from Unicomp anymore?

wobbled · 06 Apr 2018, 11:06

002 wrote: ↑Nice.
I am going through this process at the moment too on an SSK.
I am at the point where I'm ready to drill the holes in the barrel plate. I think I might've fucked up but I'm not sure; I've dremeled down the plastic rivet posts where you're supposed to drill through -- either side of those posts are some sort of surrounding plastic 'C' / bracket shaped pieces which I *believe* serve the purpose of holding the membrane layers etc in place but im not sure...anyway I think I dremeled them down too without even thinking about it so I've probably fucked it

Can you even get replacement SSK barrel plates from Unicomp anymore?

You can indeed, failing that you could cut down a full sized one

fohat · 06 Apr 2018, 13:37

I was not aware that Unicomp had SSK barrel plates, but they are the same as standard ones simply sliced down to size.

If the crescents are still visible beside the shafts of the rivets you may still be OK, the obvious answer is to try it and see.

As always, I suggest keeping your bolts looser rather than tighter, you have replaced plastic with steel after all, you don't need to crush it.

Iggy · 06 Apr 2018, 14:23

I loosened the bolts around the S and M key. Testing will point out if it worked (there really is something as "too tight" with bolt-modding a Model M).
And that drill in the pictures is what I've used. I just pick up whatever tool I can use in the garage, just like the spray can of primer.