Old or New PCB?
- kidchunks
- Main keyboard: HHKB all day everyday!
- Main mouse: L-Trac
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I've got a few old linear alps boards that I wanted to desolder and use the pcb for a new board I'm creating. Can anyone share any experiences using old pcbs as appose to having a company make one?
The only issue I have with having a company make one is they would charge an arm/leg for ONE pcb. But is it worth it over the headaches I may endure using a predrilled pcb?
My custom board will consist of cherry mx brown pcb mounted switches
Old pcb method:
I'll have to drill additional holes for the plastic pins. Also may have to rewire the whole matrix as drilling may damage some leads.
Would it be easier using plate mounted switches? If I do, how would one keep the switches stable with only two pins soldered to the board? Glue?
Thanks for all your responses!
The only issue I have with having a company make one is they would charge an arm/leg for ONE pcb. But is it worth it over the headaches I may endure using a predrilled pcb?
My custom board will consist of cherry mx brown pcb mounted switches
Old pcb method:
I'll have to drill additional holes for the plastic pins. Also may have to rewire the whole matrix as drilling may damage some leads.
Would it be easier using plate mounted switches? If I do, how would one keep the switches stable with only two pins soldered to the board? Glue?
Thanks for all your responses!
- sixty
- Gasbag Guru
- Main keyboard: DKSaver
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0060
I would also suggest to go for a metal plate if you go for a custom board but do not want to pay for a pcb. If it comes down to it, you can even work with just spaghetti wires for the prototyping and can ignore the PCB until your design is finalized.
- Minskleip
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: CM Sentinel Storm
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
It could be expensive to get a metal plate created too. This was chimera15's problem. You can do as 7bit suggested and drill some holes in a wooden plate and glue the switches
- kidchunks
- Main keyboard: HHKB all day everyday!
- Main mouse: L-Trac
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Thx for the suggestions!
I've agreed to go with plates since it'll be easier for me to solder and test(novice at soldering). In terms of the metal plate, you guys recommend just finding two plate mounted key boards and sawing the plates? Looking to do a KBC 40% replica.
I'll pm 7bit to see how much they quoted him.
I've agreed to go with plates since it'll be easier for me to solder and test(novice at soldering). In terms of the metal plate, you guys recommend just finding two plate mounted key boards and sawing the plates? Looking to do a KBC 40% replica.
I'll pm 7bit to see how much they quoted him.
- Mrinterface
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: UHK
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Monterey blues
- DT Pro Member: 0012
Just keep us posted of your work! Preferably with pictures
- spolia_optima
- Location: Pacific Northwest, USA
- Main keyboard: Filco 87 Red, AEKII, MX1800, MX3000
- Main mouse: Logitech G5
- Favorite switch: Blue MX
- DT Pro Member: -
Could you use a metal plate from an old keyboard? For instance, I have a couple old WYSE terminal 'boards from the 80's with plate-mounted black MX swtiches. You could find something similar on the cheap.
- nathanscribe
- Location: Yorkshire, UK.
- Main keyboard: Filco tenkeyless w/blues
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
If aluminium is OK for plate material, you could use Schaeffer (Germany) or Front Panel Express (US). You can download panel design software from the site, work out how to use it (pretty easy if you've any nous) and send them your design. Once it's paid for, it shows up in a few days. I've done several nice panels this way, all you need to do is make sure your design is correct and they CNC it very accurately indeed. A panel with no text engraving or ink infills, and with raw finish, should be acceptably priced I think. The software includes a price-up option, which is handy, and there are both Windows and OSX versions. It's free.
Another way is to buy a sheet of metal and cut it yourself. You'll need to be able to take a sheet and make it the right size - I do this by clamping a sheet down and bending it evenly across a former bar (just wood) and back on itself till it gives. Any sharpness can be filed down quickly. Any round holes can be drilled, larger ones can be drilled then punched/reamed, and squared-off holes can be created by drilling a pilot and using a nibbler. None of the tools (except a good drill) is any more than pocket money, so it's not an expensive thing to have a go at. Being good is another matter...
I make a few odds & ends this way - I just buy off-the-shelf cases and metal sheet, and spend an afternoon swearing and making holes. Both are good manly pursuits.
Another way is to buy a sheet of metal and cut it yourself. You'll need to be able to take a sheet and make it the right size - I do this by clamping a sheet down and bending it evenly across a former bar (just wood) and back on itself till it gives. Any sharpness can be filed down quickly. Any round holes can be drilled, larger ones can be drilled then punched/reamed, and squared-off holes can be created by drilling a pilot and using a nibbler. None of the tools (except a good drill) is any more than pocket money, so it's not an expensive thing to have a go at. Being good is another matter...
I make a few odds & ends this way - I just buy off-the-shelf cases and metal sheet, and spend an afternoon swearing and making holes. Both are good manly pursuits.
- keyboardlover
- Location: USA, Greatest Country in the World.
- Main keyboard: Cherry G80-3494 Modded (home)/Realforce 87U (work)
- Main mouse: Handshoe Ergonomic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Cherry Ergo Lite Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
He's using my old PCB.
I am honored by this =)
I am honored by this =)
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
Aha! Can't wait to hear another progress report and hopefully some pics
- off
- Location: the crapper, NL, EU
- DT Pro Member: -
So, what happened? Managed to get it all together or are the parts still hanging around somewhere?kidchunks wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions once again.
I decided to go with an old PCB from a g80-8113 and do some PCB cutting for my first project.
(didn't manage to find anything on here nor GH, so thought I'd ask)
ps: YES bump. Though I hope he's autosubscribed and didn't clear it.