Do BOX switches stretch PBT and break ABS keycaps?
- Wintermute1974
- Tessier-Ashpool S.A.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Durgod Taurus K320
- Main mouse: Ploopy Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: 0207
There's a new video on YouTube. The author's argument is that after putting his PBT keycaps on his BOX switches, that the keycap mounts have stretched, making them useless on any other type of switch.
The video is here: Has anyone ever heard of this problem? I love my double-shot ABS caps and my Kailh BOX whites, but I don't want one of them to ruin the other.
P.S. The author doesn't demonstrate the problem with ABS keycaps, but he does mention in a comment that there have been reports of ABS switches splitting or breaking after being attached to BOX switches.
The video is here: Has anyone ever heard of this problem? I love my double-shot ABS caps and my Kailh BOX whites, but I don't want one of them to ruin the other.
P.S. The author doesn't demonstrate the problem with ABS keycaps, but he does mention in a comment that there have been reports of ABS switches splitting or breaking after being attached to BOX switches.
Last edited by Wintermute1974 on 27 Jul 2018, 17:46, edited 1 time in total.
- Zaphir
- Location: Santarém, Portugal
- Main keyboard: KBD67 (w/ brass plate and weight)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: 67g Zealio v2
I've seen 2 or 3 posts on Reddit and another thread on GeekHack mentioning this same issue with the Kailh BOX switches.
I have a TINA-A with Box Royals that had a GMK Yuri set installed. Took out the keycaps today and I can confirm that a few keycap mounts are a little stretched. I can see tiny white stress marks on a few keycaps, it's most noticeable on the modifiers. No broken mounts but some caps have those stress marks and it worries me.
I don't want any of my keysets ruined from this... specially my GMK sets which weren't cheap.
This really is a bummer because I have a new keyboard coming soon with Box Jades and now I'm fairly sure they'll have the same problem as the Royals.
Kailh really dropped the ball on this. The switches are pretty good though, no complains on the weight and feel of them.
I have a TINA-A with Box Royals that had a GMK Yuri set installed. Took out the keycaps today and I can confirm that a few keycap mounts are a little stretched. I can see tiny white stress marks on a few keycaps, it's most noticeable on the modifiers. No broken mounts but some caps have those stress marks and it worries me.
I don't want any of my keysets ruined from this... specially my GMK sets which weren't cheap.
This really is a bummer because I have a new keyboard coming soon with Box Jades and now I'm fairly sure they'll have the same problem as the Royals.
Kailh really dropped the ball on this. The switches are pretty good though, no complains on the weight and feel of them.
- Wintermute1974
- Tessier-Ashpool S.A.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Durgod Taurus K320
- Main mouse: Ploopy Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: 0207
Well, I am willing to be a guinea pig. If my Miami doubleshots drop off my BOX whites, I will post in this thread. For now (about a month, maybe six weeks), it's so far, so good.I've seen 2 or 3 posts on Reddit and another thread on GeekHack mentioning this same issue with the Kailh BOX switches.
Maybe the trick is to keep the keycaps attached to the BOX switches? Maybe it is during removal that the damage is done.
- mark201200
- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
I tried putting some brand new g710 keycaps (don't want to ruin good caps) on the box navies I have laying around. First off, they're way harder to install and remove, compared to Cherry(tried both vint black and brown). And yes, the stems start to show stress marks and cracks pretty fast. Keep in mind that logitech keycaps are trash, and tend to crack even when mounted on Cherrys.
TBH, I'm planning to build a tada with navies and put some nice SA caps on it, and this is not discouraging me, I'll just try to keep the caps on the switches, without removing them.
TBH, I'm planning to build a tada with navies and put some nice SA caps on it, and this is not discouraging me, I'll just try to keep the caps on the switches, without removing them.
they're still awesome switches, and this will probably be fixed
- chuckdee
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Clueboard/RS Ver.B
- Main mouse: Logitech g900
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0151
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
Yes. They cracked a few of my Wy-60's caps. (The worst affected one was the "Break" key, lol)
I believe the problem is the stems are deformed, the sides of the cross mount bow out slightly, if you look at a close up of a Box switch.
I believe the problem is the stems are deformed, the sides of the cross mount bow out slightly, if you look at a close up of a Box switch.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
This is like some dystopian, parallel world of HORROR (not talking about the Democrats here).
This is my FAVE switch built in modern times yet it destroys ALL key-caps with glee, how can this be?
I love them way too much to abandon them in any way, this is something truly disturbing and quite unreal.
Like some demented 'Flat-Earther' I refuse to believe this .
This is my FAVE switch built in modern times yet it destroys ALL key-caps with glee, how can this be?
I love them way too much to abandon them in any way, this is something truly disturbing and quite unreal.
Like some demented 'Flat-Earther' I refuse to believe this .
That happens when you play early adopter for a company which was known (and isnow known again) for their shit switches
- Wintermute1974
- Tessier-Ashpool S.A.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Durgod Taurus K320
- Main mouse: Ploopy Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: 0207
What are you saying? Your image shows a yellow non-BOX stem broken off inside a keycap. How is this an indictment against the quality of Kailh BOX switches?scottc wrote: ↑just saying
@Everyone
When I think back to the installation of my doubleshot ABS keycaps on my Kailh BOX whites, I remember thinking that it seemed to be requiring more force than usual to attach them on to the keyswitch stems. My guess is if there is any plastic deformation on the keycaps, then this deformation is made when the keycaps are first attached to the keyswitch stems.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
100% correct.
Nice when someone is trying to lump in another MX design into this so-called claim of "Stretching and Breaking" Key-caps revelation .
Suspect this is another 'Russia-gate' claim being made here as FACT and you all know the consequences of that laughable effort.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Cracks are intricate beasts. They have a microscopic life of their own. They rarely develop at the moment you notice the snap. They’re usually slowly growing, through repetitive fatigue:
http://www.leancrew.com/all-this/2014/0 ... e-failure/
Sure, seating and pulling caps will give them the most strain. But just gentle typing use adds up, too. Can’t say without a similar microscope picture as this, but I wouldn’t gamble with anything nicer than junker caps until this is proven fixed.
http://www.leancrew.com/all-this/2014/0 ... e-failure/
Sure, seating and pulling caps will give them the most strain. But just gentle typing use adds up, too. Can’t say without a similar microscope picture as this, but I wouldn’t gamble with anything nicer than junker caps until this is proven fixed.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Thats a total bummer if this is true, the sound and feel of the box switch is suposed to be very nice.
I have a nice retro looking MX board to throw them in and it will be a shame if they damage the caps.
Lets hope its just the early ones and its sorted on later runs. It is posible.
I have a nice retro looking MX board to throw them in and it will be a shame if they damage the caps.
Lets hope its just the early ones and its sorted on later runs. It is posible.
So far it looks like all switches are affected by that. And I'm not sure who would want to be early adopter for a fixed batch. Muirium has written a perfect summary about how the constant usage will add up and crack the stems in the long run. I wouldn't wanna test that with my keycaps...
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I would do it on a board that is never going to have the kecaps taken off.
So if your getting your WYSE 50 and modding it to box and leaving it like that then its fine
But you wont catch me putting my round 4 or my IMSTO grey PBT on them.
So if your getting your WYSE 50 and modding it to box and leaving it like that then its fine
But you wont catch me putting my round 4 or my IMSTO grey PBT on them.
- Bass
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F104 "Unsaver"
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: Beamspring / Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0206
Yikes. I had a board with BOX Navies and SA Dasher keycaps sitting in storage for several months, and upon seeing this video I immediately went ahead and pulled them all off. I then attempted to fit them on another board I had lying around with MX Blues and noticed that they fit very loosely. Not as bad as in that video but very noticeable, especially when compared to another SA keycap I had that has never been mounted on BOX switches.
If this is a consistent problem with all BOX switches, that would be a shame since I too agree with many others that they are some of my favorite modern switches.
If this is a consistent problem with all BOX switches, that would be a shame since I too agree with many others that they are some of my favorite modern switches.
- Wintermute1974
- Tessier-Ashpool S.A.
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Durgod Taurus K320
- Main mouse: Ploopy Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: 0207
BOX switches have a nice, sharp click.Muirium wrote: ↑I wasn’t around for their hype phase. What’s meant to be so good about them? Stability? Smoothness?
- Nuum
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: KBD8X Mk I (60g Clears), Phantom (Nixdorf Blacks)
- Main mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB
- Favorite switch: 60g MX Clears/Brown Alps/Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0084
They are quite smooth as well, the BOX Black switches I habe are probably on par with my Nixdorf switches, although I haven't tested them in a keyboard yet. The BOX White switches are nice as well, smooth and clicky!
I had an IMSTO PBT keycap sitting on a BOX Black switch for several weeks and it doesn't seem to be loose on regular Cherry MX switches, but maybe that is different across different batches.
I had an IMSTO PBT keycap sitting on a BOX Black switch for several weeks and it doesn't seem to be loose on regular Cherry MX switches, but maybe that is different across different batches.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
Elrick wrote: ↑Suspect this is another 'Russia-gate' claim being made here as FACT and you all know the consequences of that laughable effort.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
It’s called motivated reasoning. It’s what we do when we need to adjust reality to conform to our beliefs.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motivated_reasoning
I’d love a widely available, well priced, reliable and safe MX clone line with the superior properties mentioned abou these box switches. Switch innovation is good. But problems are problems.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motivated_reasoning
I’d love a widely available, well priced, reliable and safe MX clone line with the superior properties mentioned abou these box switches. Switch innovation is good. But problems are problems.
- TheInverseKey
- Location: Great White North
- Main mouse: M570
- Favorite switch: Hi-Tek 725 Linear
- DT Pro Member: 0216
- Contact:
They are the best clicky cherry based switch that is around and they are very stable. Also the work with LEDs so that is another big thing that a lot of people look for in a switch. Finally the force curve is one of the best that I have found for a cherry switch as well.Muirium wrote: ↑I wasn’t around for their hype phase. What’s meant to be so good about them? Stability? Smoothness?
- chuckdee
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Clueboard/RS Ver.B
- Main mouse: Logitech g900
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0151
The tactility is supposed to be good also. I'm just glad I never got around to getting them. Those measurements are pretty concerning as in they'd explain the cracking, but there's been no official response. Mike at NovelKeys is a cool guy that worked with Kailh on these and he's built his business off of that relationship. Sucks to see this happening.Muirium wrote: ↑I wasn’t around for their hype phase. What’s meant to be so good about them? Stability? Smoothness?
And if you haven't been keeping up, Kailh is now one of the best switch companies, with the other companies not really innovating as much as they have. Their speed switches are great!
- TheInverseKey
- Location: Great White North
- Main mouse: M570
- Favorite switch: Hi-Tek 725 Linear
- DT Pro Member: 0216
- Contact:
chuckdee wrote: ↑The tactility is supposed to be good also. I'm just glad I never got around to getting them. Those measurements are pretty concerning as in they'd explain the cracking, but there's been no official response. Mike at NovelKeys is a cool guy that worked with Kailh on these and he's built his business off of that relationship. Sucks to see this happening.Muirium wrote: ↑I wasn’t around for their hype phase. What’s meant to be so good about them? Stability? Smoothness?
And if you haven't been keeping up, Kailh is now one of the best switch companies, with the other companies not really innovating as much as they have. Their speed switches are great!
I would never really put that much money into a unknown switch good thing that I only bought cheap caps that I knew I didn't care about. But from the start you could tell that there was something off with the amount of force needed to put the caps on.
Instead of linear box switches I would always recommend retooled Cherry mx black switches, they are smooth and as we know for over 30 years now they are designed perfectly. And with 20ct per switch they are also the cheapest option out there: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/mx1a- ... ericas-llcNuum wrote: ↑They are quite smooth as well, the BOX Black switches I habe are probably on par with my Nixdorf switches, although I haven't tested them in a keyboard yet. The BOX White switches are nice as well, smooth and clicky!
I had an IMSTO PBT keycap sitting on a BOX Black switch for several weeks and it doesn't seem to be loose on regular Cherry MX switches, but maybe that is different across different batches.
- Sup
- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Filco Zero/AEK II
- Main mouse: Final Mouse Ultralight black
- Favorite switch: Gateron Red/Gateron Yellow/SKCL Yellow/SKCL green
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
dude the stem broke of the switch not the stem of the keycap, I don't see the connection. Box switches indeed do strecht key caps/break. Rip TMX Bro caps artisan got gaped to oblivion to the point it just flies off on non box switches. One of the reasons i don't use box switches anymore.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Retooled, eh?hansichen wrote: ↑
Instead of linear box switches I would always recommend retooled Cherry mx black switches, they are smooth and as we know for over 30 years now they are designed perfectly. And with 20ct per switch they are also the cheapest option out there: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/mx1a- ... ericas-llc