This one has a parallel (or possibly serial) interface so there may be some processing in it but it wouldn't be a full-blown computer. My other Home-made keyboard does have enough computing power internally to be a full blown computer (it has an Intel 8080 in it) but this one is too thin to have anything decent in it, I think. I just like the period esthetic. The slotted screws mean late 70's, I think.elecplus wrote: ↑Maybe not! Did you see the TV typewriter cookbook, or the Popular Science article that tells how to make your own keyboard? This looks VERY similar.
IDENTIFY THE KEYBOARD thread
- snuci
- Vintage computer guy
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- DT Pro Member: 0131
- Contact:
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Eh, if you're certain about the foam and foil, why exactly are you asking about it? xDsnuci wrote: ↑Not sure if anyone was watching this but I just bought it. I am certain it's a Key Tronic foam and foil but it is pretty special for a computer guy and I am itching to find out what's inside. I did not pay the asking price. Am I right about the foam and foil?
Spoiler:
Anyway, I'd say yeah, either KT F&F or MR, based on the keycaps.
- snuci
- Vintage computer guy
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- DT Pro Member: 0131
- Contact:
I never really know by looking at key caps but lots of people here seem to be able to tell by looking at the font, key cap construction, etc. I couldn't find a Keytronic with that font and Return key style.Chyros wrote: ↑Eh, if you're certain about the foam and foil, why exactly are you asking about it? xD
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Ah, I see. Well, the old KT sphericals had exceptionally rounded keycap tops, like these. Also the font appears to be identical to KT's. They put these on KT magreed and early foam and foil boards. My KT magreed board has almost the same layout, including an ISO-style enter key just like that.snuci wrote: ↑I never really know by looking at key caps but lots of people here seem to be able to tell by looking at the font, key cap construction, etc. I couldn't find a Keytronic with that font and Return key style.Chyros wrote: ↑Eh, if you're certain about the foam and foil, why exactly are you asking about it? xD
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- Location: South Africa
- Main keyboard: IBM model M
- DT Pro Member: -
A colleague found three IBM model M keyboards and some unidentified (and worse for wear) keyboard in a house that is being torn down. They're 122 key terminal model M's, with two having stickers at the back still, model 1390702, manufactured in the UK in 1988. Did these use AT connectors, since the cords have been cut from them all.
They're obviously dirty and did get wet as well. I'm hoping that I can at least get one of them to work again, if not all three. Am I being overly optimistic?
They're obviously dirty and did get wet as well. I'm hoping that I can at least get one of them to work again, if not all three. Am I being overly optimistic?
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: Intellimouse Optical 5 button
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
twasa wrote: ↑A colleague found three IBM model M keyboards and some unidentified (and worse for wear) keyboard in a house that is being torn down. They're 122 key terminal model M's, with two having stickers at the back still, model 1390702, manufactured in the UK in 1988. Did these use AT connectors, since the cords have been cut from them all.
They're obviously dirty and did get wet as well. I'm hoping that I can at least get one of them to work again, if not all three. Am I being overly optimistic?
no, they more likely used RJ-45 style connectors, but you can very easily build an internal soarers converter to make these work with USB. I would say disassemble all 3 of them completely, including removing the rivets and separating the barrel plates. i'd say chances are between the 3 of them you have enough parts to get one or maybe two of them working again. Bolt mod is basically essential at this point seeing as they are water damaged.
- Myoth
- Location: Strasbourg
- Main keyboard: IDB60
- Main mouse: EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Cap BS
- DT Pro Member: -
they did use a DIN5 connector, but they used IBM's Terminal language, which is called 270 degrees DIN, soarer should be fine to convert them. and No, you're not being overly optimistic, they're very common boards so there is a lot of documentation and stuff about them, you won't have a problem converting/cleaning themtwasa wrote: ↑A colleague found three IBM model M keyboards and some unidentified (and worse for wear) keyboard in a house that is being torn down. They're 122 key terminal model M's, with two having stickers at the back still, model 1390702, manufactured in the UK in 1988. Did these use AT connectors, since the cords have been cut from them all.
They're obviously dirty and did get wet as well. I'm hoping that I can at least get one of them to work again, if not all three. Am I being overly optimistic?
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- Location: South Africa
- Main keyboard: IBM model M
- DT Pro Member: -
I finally got to open one (after we had a power cut) and it actually looked fine apart from the fluff and grime one would expect from 30 years. I'm glad that Soarer would be fine to get some operational again. Bolt modding is a bit of an issue, since finding the required screws or bolts here in South Africa seem to be difficult, given the sizes. I'm looking forward to learning though, never having soldered anything before. Thanks for the feedback.
- Darkshado
- Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
- Main keyboard: WASD V2 MX Clears (work); M, F, Matias, etc (home)
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 (work), G502 + CST L-Trac (home)
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, SKCM Cream Dampened, MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: 0237
That fourth one is a Model F, 87 key terminal board, see wiki/IBM_Model_F#IBM_3178_Keyboards
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Buying tools and hardware on ebay is cheap and easy, but the problem is the 2-3 week shipping.twasa wrote: ↑I finally got to open one (after we had a power cut) and it actually looked fine apart from the fluff and grime one would expect from 30 years. I'm glad that Soarer would be fine to get some operational again. Bolt modding is a bit of an issue, since finding the required screws or bolts here in South Africa seem to be difficult, given the sizes. I'm looking forward to learning though, never having soldered anything before. Thanks for the feedback.
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- Location: South Africa
- Main keyboard: IBM model M
- DT Pro Member: -
My colleague went back to look for the top cover of the model F and found it in two pieces. What kind of glue would one use to join them as perfectly as possible?
Sorry for the poor picture quality.
He also found another two 122 key M's, one badly damaged. Looks like I'll be hoping to restore 5 keyboards if I'm lucky.
Sorry for the poor picture quality.
He also found another two 122 key M's, one badly damaged. Looks like I'll be hoping to restore 5 keyboards if I'm lucky.
- Attachments
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- 20181122_161751[1].jpg (2.25 MiB) Viewed 6256 times
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm not sure what plastic the F cover is made of, but if it's possible to glue it chemically, your best best is probably acetone, DCM, or EA.
- Sangdrax
- Location: Hill Country
- Main keyboard: Harris 1978 Terminal
- Main mouse: Mammoth
- DT Pro Member: -
Ditto what Chyros said. I would probably also slice some support slits in the back of the cracks and back the acetone weld with epoxy just as an extra strength thing. The 3178 is a lovely board, if a bit of a pain to convert. Definitely worth the effort to revive it. Just don't try to remove the spacebar for cleaning with the other keys without taking the switch plate sandwich apart first and unhooking the stabalizer wire. You'll break it.
I think orihalcon also has full replacement cases for like $20.
I think orihalcon also has full replacement cases for like $20.
- Noobmaen
- Location: Bonn, Germany
- Main keyboard: FC660M MX Brown, HHKB, IBM6580
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, Vintage MX brown, Cap. BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Should be wiki/SMK_J-M0404_series or clones
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- Location: Huntly
- Main keyboard: Ducky One tkl
- Main mouse: Logitech G303
- Favorite switch: SKCM Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
Anybody know what switches a Panasonic accu spell plus could have in it, can't really find much info on it but its looks pretty clean and quite cheap for where I live so I'm tempted to pick it up.
- Myoth
- Location: Strasbourg
- Main keyboard: IDB60
- Main mouse: EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Cap BS
- DT Pro Member: -
they're rubber dome IIRCProfTroutington wrote:Anybody know what switches a Panasonic accu spell plus could have in it, can't really find much info on it but its looks pretty clean and quite cheap for where I live so I'm tempted to pick it up.
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
Just bought this one on eBay from a seller in Bulgaria. Alps clone perhaps? I read AA 14.
- zrrion
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: Microsoft IntelliMouse
- Favorite switch: ALPS SKCC Cream
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
It looks like a kpt type clone.
- OldIsNew
- Location: US
- DT Pro Member: 0248
Ха! У меня их трое! Социалистический пепел и ожоги на моем борту намного превосходят и более обширны, чем любые попытки капиталистического лакея, который работает под культом личности!
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
I really think you are on to something. The case really similar to board I have with blue KPT's.zrrion wrote: ↑It looks like a kpt type clone.
Some more pics:
Spoiler:
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- Location: Ukraine
- Main keyboard: XW60V1
- Favorite switch: SMK 2nd gen
- DT Pro Member: -
Looks like Podworld 292 keyboard. wiki/Podworld_292JP! wrote: ↑I really think you are on to something. The case really similar to board I have with blue KPT's.
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
From that I found an example of one just like the one I bought.uttindar wrote: ↑Looks like Podworld 292 keyboard. wiki/Podworld_292JP! wrote: ↑I really think you are on to something. The case really similar to board I have with blue KPT's.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=7073.0