finally the kishsaver (or 60%) has been completed
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
check out the photos and they speak for themselves.
https://imgur.com/gallery/o3z4qba
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHuBtYwKvNk
https://imgur.com/gallery/o3z4qba
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHuBtYwKvNk
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
the final outlook. need a batch tho
- Attachments
-
- the final outlook. need a batch tho
- 1BE8927A-176A-4AEB-A96D-5CA4F04C0D2D.jpeg (753.94 KiB) Viewed 11691 times
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Modded IBM Model F AT
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 8200
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Wow looks great amazing work
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
Turned out beautifully! How did you cut the plate?
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I used dremel to cut the steel plate. I used simple hand saw to cut all the plastic. Except the rotor, I dont have any machine tool to do this.
- zrrion
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: Microsoft IntelliMouse
- Favorite switch: ALPS SKCC Cream
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
This is a super cool! Would you ever make one of these for someone else, asking for a friend.
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Sup
- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Filco Zero/AEK II
- Main mouse: Final Mouse Ultralight black
- Favorite switch: Gateron Red/Gateron Yellow/SKCL Yellow/SKCL green
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
That looks very nice holy crap.
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
my f60 keeps revolving. have just turned it into capacitive buckling spring with customed pcb and xwhatsit. many thinks to iDollar letting me to modify his fssk pcb design.
- Attachments
-
- E6816FA0-E243-49C3-BB0A-23664ACB60C0.jpeg (734.15 KiB) Viewed 11097 times
-
- 1A958CAF-D174-4EA2-99D8-DF57E4A3DE0B.jpeg (2.93 MiB) Viewed 11097 times
-
- EE5C50BF-05C2-408D-9B58-425C895D5B5C.jpeg (2.52 MiB) Viewed 11097 times
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
yeah sure, will shoot a typing test of it later. thanks.
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Here is a typing test video of this little keyboard. with and without solenoid.
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
sounds like the iphone mic is quite sensitive. actual noise is not much pingy than the video. no floss mod.
yes it does sound great. feels like typing on AT and some what close to fssk.
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
your measurement for the cut is very important. give a bit more room for your first cut and use rough sand paper to sand down the plastic to fit. use static model cement to hide the seam, use fine sand paper such as #800 or higher to smooth the surface. spray and file until you cannot see the seam. good luck
-
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Alps64 salmon
- Favorite switch: Alps salmon
You're the best, thank you so much!anthonymak wrote: ↑26 May 2019, 10:32your measurement for the cut is very important. give a bit more room for your first cut and use rough sand paper to sand down the plastic to fit. use static model cement to hide the seam, use fine sand paper such as #800 or higher to smooth the surface. spray and file until you cannot see the seam. good luck
- Scarpia
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: F77 / Alps SKCM Brown TKL
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Anywhere 2
- Favorite switch: Capacitive BS, Alps SKCM Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0223
This is brilliant - I have several projects where I would like to repair cracks or holes, and I can only dream to get a result half as clean as yours, but this will be very helpful. Could you elaborate on the model cement you’re referring to - and perhaps the exact paint/color? Google wasn’t very helpful.pumasocks wrote: ↑27 May 2019, 03:41You're the best, thank you so much!anthonymak wrote: ↑26 May 2019, 10:32your measurement for the cut is very important. give a bit more room for your first cut and use rough sand paper to sand down the plastic to fit. use static model cement to hide the seam, use fine sand paper such as #800 or higher to smooth the surface. spray and file until you cannot see the seam. good luck
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi, I used static model cement from China but it is not too good for this purpose. I plan to use cement from Tamiya which shall give good result.Scarpia wrote: ↑27 May 2019, 10:16This is brilliant - I have several projects where I would like to repair cracks or holes, and I can only dream to get a result half as clean as yours, but this will be very helpful. Could you elaborate on the model cement you’re referring to - and perhaps the exact paint/color? Google wasn’t very helpful.pumasocks wrote: ↑27 May 2019, 03:41You're the best, thank you so much!anthonymak wrote: ↑26 May 2019, 10:32
your measurement for the cut is very important. give a bit more room for your first cut and use rough sand paper to sand down the plastic to fit. use static model cement to hide the seam, use fine sand paper such as #800 or higher to smooth the surface. spray and file until you cannot see the seam. good luck
https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87187/index.htm
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
There is no need to thank for anything. All my work is public. You have created a wonderful version of the PCB and a better keyboard. Congratulations.anthonymak wrote: ↑21 May 2019, 09:26my f60 keeps revolving. have just turned it into capacitive buckling spring with customed pcb and xwhatsit. many thinks to iDollar letting me to modify his fssk pcb design.
Are you using it regularly ?
Cheers
- Quartz64
- Location: Russia
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Contoured (Kailh Box Black, Koala)
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge
- Favorite switch: Durock Koala
- DT Pro Member: 0253
- Contact:
Amazing job!anthonymak wrote: ↑21 May 2019, 09:26my f60 keeps revolving. have just turned it into capacitive buckling spring with customed pcb and xwhatsit. many thinks to iDollar letting me to modify his fssk pcb design.
Can you share the gerbers of this PCB? I have the remains of a faulty '2001 Unicomp laying around: scratched case, cracked barrelplate, etc.
- anthonymak
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F101
- Main mouse: Microsoft arc
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I have extra pcb laying around. please pm me if you want one. Cheers,Quartz64 wrote: ↑03 Sep 2019, 16:14Amazing job!anthonymak wrote: ↑21 May 2019, 09:26my f60 keeps revolving. have just turned it into capacitive buckling spring with customed pcb and xwhatsit. many thinks to iDollar letting me to modify his fssk pcb design.
Can you share the gerbers of this PCB? I have the remains of a faulty '2001 Unicomp laying around: scratched case, cracked barrelplate, etc.
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Model F77
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3S
- Favorite switch: Alpaca V2
Few questions:
1. What controller did you use?
2. When changing over to the capacitive PCB, are you using the Model M flipper or Model F?
3. Could you link a seller selling the solenoids?
1. What controller did you use?
2. When changing over to the capacitive PCB, are you using the Model M flipper or Model F?
3. Could you link a seller selling the solenoids?
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
It will be the Model F's flipper, as both serve different functions. The M's hammer strikes a membrane, whereas the F's flipper is made of a capacitive plastic that causes a change in capacitance when it presses down on the pads below.