IBM Model M keyboard search
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi guys, I'm not sure what exact model I'm after, as I'm not an expert in those IBM keyboards, so wanted first ask you for advice.
I would like to buy one for myself, but wanted to ask what should I look for exactly - I know there were different versions of it etc
I would like to get a proper vintage version of it, but be able to use with modern PC .
I'm guessing IBM version would be the best, 1391401 series are popular, not Lexmark or Unicomp?
I was thinking of SSK, but not sure, maybe getting a full M version would be better.
White label, blue label series? One like this?
What should I look for? What to watch, be careful not to get, where to look for it?
Please let me know
I would like to buy one for myself, but wanted to ask what should I look for exactly - I know there were different versions of it etc
I would like to get a proper vintage version of it, but be able to use with modern PC .
I'm guessing IBM version would be the best, 1391401 series are popular, not Lexmark or Unicomp?
I was thinking of SSK, but not sure, maybe getting a full M version would be better.
White label, blue label series? One like this?
What should I look for? What to watch, be careful not to get, where to look for it?
Please let me know
- swampangel
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 101
- DT Pro Member: -
It should be relatively easy to get a wiki/IBM_Enhanced_Keyboard#1391401 in good condition with a PS/2 cable.
Model Ms differ somewhat by year and place of manufacture. Generally older == heavier/sturdier.
My own favourite is a 1391401 from 1988 made in Mexico. I have an SSK from 1987 as well, and it's equally sturdy but the keys are noticeably stiffer.
Model Ms differ somewhat by year and place of manufacture. Generally older == heavier/sturdier.
My own favourite is a 1391401 from 1988 made in Mexico. I have an SSK from 1987 as well, and it's equally sturdy but the keys are noticeably stiffer.
- adamcobabe
- Location: London
- Main keyboard: Norbatouch
- Main mouse: Razer
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Kind of, yeah. Screw mod is the easier of the mods and arguably worse than the bolt mod IMHO. I bought a very early NOS square silver badge Model M for about that price. I'd recommend trying to find one of those. Basically, the older the better with most IBM keyboards. A little patience on eBay will work. Shipping to the UK is the only issue. So maybe it's a wash.
- swampangel
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 101
- DT Pro Member: -
It sure sounds like a lot. Compare to what Redmaus is asking for rare NIB SSKs viewtopic.php?f=55&t=21975
I don't have a great idea what UK prices/availability are like, but I'd think you could get a decent Model M for £50-80 (see https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/com ... l_cable_w/, https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/com ... er_french/)
I don't have a great idea what UK prices/availability are like, but I'd think you could get a decent Model M for £50-80 (see https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/com ... l_cable_w/, https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/com ... er_french/)
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Modded IBM Model F AT
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 8200
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
I thought I could offer 180 for this one, but it sounds like really expensive?
I would prefer ANSI
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-IBM-Mod ... SwqMtdofQi
I would prefer ANSI
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-IBM-Mod ... SwqMtdofQi
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Modded IBM Model F AT
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 8200
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Its got an ANSI layout so I would say no but then again it is screw modded which is a time consuming and finicky job. On the other hand if it had an ISO layout it would probably be worth that as ISO is much rarer than ANSI. I would say offer something like £77 to £90 tops IMO.phinix wrote: ↑08 Jan 2020, 17:04I thought I could offer 180 for this one, but it sounds like really expensive?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-IBM-Mod ... SwqMtdofQi
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Alps64 w. SKCM Brown Alps
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM/SKCL
Tbh in the 200+ USD price range I would suggest you try to go for a Model F AT - if the layout is doable for you. I find it far superior to the model M's typing experience. SSK's are amazing but generally cost around 300 USD. For a normal model M I wouldn't go above 150 (if bolt modded). If stock then not over 60 USD. Your best bet is eBay and some patience
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Understood, thanks for reply.anmq91 wrote: ↑08 Jan 2020, 22:13Tbh in the 200+ USD price range I would suggest you try to go for a Model F AT - if the layout is doable for you. I find it far superior to the model M's typing experience. SSK's are amazing but generally cost around 300 USD. For a normal model M I wouldn't go above 150 (if bolt modded). If stock then not over 60 USD. Your best bet is eBay and some patience
F AT is not my fav layout, I prefer standard full layout. All my keyboards are TKLs, so for this one I wanted to have full rail
I will aim for white label M board.
I've seen Kishsaver once, amazing, heavy as hell - Muirium from our forum here met me once and showed his Kish - really cool board, but I prefer at least TKL size.
I'm not planning to spend more than $100 on it, so will keep an eye for one.
-
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Focus FK-9000, heavily modded
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
Keep in mind that if you want to save a lot of money you can buy a terminal keyboard and convert it with a $5 pro micro and my guide
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/11 ... m-model-m/
All you lose with a terminal board are lock lights, a PS/2 cable (although you'll be converting it internally to USB so it doesn't really matter), and normal keycaps (although I personally think the terminal ones look kick-ass). The only layout change is a split numpad plus key.
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/11 ... m-model-m/
All you lose with a terminal board are lock lights, a PS/2 cable (although you'll be converting it internally to USB so it doesn't really matter), and normal keycaps (although I personally think the terminal ones look kick-ass). The only layout change is a split numpad plus key.
- ShivaYash
- Location: de
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2 BT
- Main mouse: CH Products Trackball Pro
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Keep an eye on Gumtree. I picked up a lovely Model M (ISO UK layout) for £20 not that long ago.phinix wrote: ↑08 Jan 2020, 15:29Hi guys, I'm not sure what exact model I'm after, as I'm not an expert in those IBM keyboards, so wanted first ask you for advice.
I would like to buy one for myself, but wanted to ask what should I look for exactly - I know there were different versions of it etc
I would like to get a proper vintage version of it, but be able to use with modern PC .
I'm guessing IBM version would be the best, 1391401 series are popular, not Lexmark or Unicomp?
I was thinking of SSK, but not sure, maybe getting a full M version would be better.
White label, blue label series? One like this?
What should I look for? What to watch, be careful not to get, where to look for it?
Please let me know
-
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Model F77
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3S
- Favorite switch: Alpaca V2
I intend to buy my Unicomp TKL/ SSK from them when they have them in a few months....Rauha wrote: ↑10 Jan 2020, 22:31Unicomp, in UK layout from UK.
https://www.keyboardco.com/category.asp ... de&rtv=100
- Howard81
- Location: London, UK
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M/F
- Main mouse: Not fussed
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm the seller for that.. it's a heavy early board (simlar in weight to the earlier silver badge model) in really lovely condition that has over 7 hours in it for the refubishing and screw mod. I think it had a new membrane in it too. I would be happy to take £180 for it if you want to buy it here rather than eBay (and that includes postage in the UK which is about £15. If you're in London I could also knock that off if you collect)phinix wrote: ↑08 Jan 2020, 17:04I thought I could offer 180 for this one, but it sounds like really expensive?
I would prefer ANSI
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-IBM-Mod ... SwqMtdofQi
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for the offer, but like guys suggested here, I shouldn't go over $150 for modded one.Howard81 wrote: ↑15 Jan 2020, 13:50I'm the seller for that.. it's a heavy early board (simlar in weight to the earlier silver badge model) in really lovely condition that has over 7 hours in it for the refubishing and screw mod. I think it had a new membrane in it too. I would be happy to take £180 for it if you want to buy it here rather than eBay (and that includes postage in the UK which is about £15. If you're in London I could also knock that off if you collect)phinix wrote: ↑08 Jan 2020, 17:04I thought I could offer 180 for this one, but it sounds like really expensive?
I would prefer ANSI
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-IBM-Mod ... SwqMtdofQi
I understand that you spent a lot of time on modding it, I'm sure you will find a buyer for it.
For me it's just too much.
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Well, some nice one cam up on ebay, so bought it
One of these beauties is coming to me, tomorrow
It is not modded yet, but no cosmetic defects, looking all good, working 100%, so hopefully I'll keep her for a looong time.
I'll give her a nice bath, get the nails done and should be a real treat
One of these beauties is coming to me, tomorrow
It is not modded yet, but no cosmetic defects, looking all good, working 100%, so hopefully I'll keep her for a looong time.
I'll give her a nice bath, get the nails done and should be a real treat
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Guys, how do I know that my Model M needs bolt mod?
Should I feel some kind of inconsistency when pressing keys or something?
Should I open it up and check if there are no lose pins?
Jut asking as I bought a board that hasn't been modded and wanted to know if I should do it straight away, or check of any symptoms.
Should I feel some kind of inconsistency when pressing keys or something?
Should I open it up and check if there are no lose pins?
Jut asking as I bought a board that hasn't been modded and wanted to know if I should do it straight away, or check of any symptoms.
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Model F77
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3S
- Favorite switch: Alpaca V2
If keys don't register, check the area for missing rivets. You can only do this by opening it up. If you are missing only a few rivets then there is no need to bolt mod. Bolt modding is the most talked about mod on a model M, yet 99 percent of model Ms will never need a bolt mod.
Last edited by kmnov2017 on 05 Feb 2020, 13:24, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Modded IBM Model F AT
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 8200
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
They definitely will need a bolt/screw mod if they have 22 broken plastic rivets as I found out the hard way.
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
OK, thanks guys. It should arrive today, will check, but auction said it is 100% working, so will play with it and see how it works.
So the bolt mod is only if some keys are not registering?
No need to do it just like that?
Should I look for some kind of signs of wear or some kind of known quality issues?
Like if there is something obvious in model Ms?
Just want to know how to test my new keyboard and know that I bought a good one:)
So the bolt mod is only if some keys are not registering?
No need to do it just like that?
Should I look for some kind of signs of wear or some kind of known quality issues?
Like if there is something obvious in model Ms?
Just want to know how to test my new keyboard and know that I bought a good one:)
-
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Keys not registering or uneven feel.
You can also just shake it a bit and hear the broken rivets moving inside the case.
Oh and, if you need to open it, the nut driver required for opening it comes in some strange american size. Like seven point five inches and three gallons or something. I would assume finding it in UK would be difficult, at least it was in Finland.
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- Location: Spain - Seville
- Main keyboard: IBM model M
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring.
- DT Pro Member: -
A 5.5 mm nut driver is required, like this one from a swedish company:Rauha wrote: ↑05 Feb 2020, 16:37Keys not registering or uneven feel.
You can also just shake it a bit and hear the broken rivets moving inside the case.
Oh and, if you need to open it, the nut driver required for opening it comes in some strange american size. Like seven point five inches and three gallons or something. I would assume finding it in UK would be difficult, at least it was in Finland.
https://www.bahco.com/int_en/bahcofit-h ... 5-150.html
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm cleaning up my caps. Cant pull out capslock, how is it mounted there under?
Last edited by phinix on 05 Feb 2020, 23:46, edited 2 times in total.
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Modded IBM Model F AT
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 8200
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
It has a rod stabiliser it should just pull out. Are you pulling all your caps using a keycap puller?
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
No, just fingers. Pulling outer caps, not actual caps with rods.
Cant pull off that outer cap from capslock. I'm guessing it is full cap, like enter?
No outer, just one full mold cap?
Other full mold modifier caps came off quickly, not this one.
I think I will have to open it to clean it as it is dirty under the caps.
Need to find this tool in UK.
Is there a special key puller for buckling springs?
How can I pull off those inner caps?
Cant pull off that outer cap from capslock. I'm guessing it is full cap, like enter?
No outer, just one full mold cap?
Other full mold modifier caps came off quickly, not this one.
I think I will have to open it to clean it as it is dirty under the caps.
Need to find this tool in UK.
Is there a special key puller for buckling springs?
How can I pull off those inner caps?
- zrrion
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: Microsoft IntelliMouse
- Favorite switch: ALPS SKCC Cream
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
You can use two loops of thin string and get them looped around the sides of the cap you can use that to pull them up. Other method is to make a key puller from paperclips
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
I have loads of key pullers in my drawer, like 20:)
I just didn't know you can use it on buckling springs too.
I guess it will work ok.
I'll try to pull this capslock tonight.
I don't have that 5.5mm nut driver, it would be easier to clean it, but I'll try to use brush and clean between keys that way...
This is first time in 20 years I used Model M...
It sounds amazing, feels a lot lighter than I thought/remembered!
Can't wait to bring it to my office and type on it Peeps will be like WTF!
I just didn't know you can use it on buckling springs too.
I guess it will work ok.
I'll try to pull this capslock tonight.
I don't have that 5.5mm nut driver, it would be easier to clean it, but I'll try to use brush and clean between keys that way...
This is first time in 20 years I used Model M...
It sounds amazing, feels a lot lighter than I thought/remembered!
Can't wait to bring it to my office and type on it Peeps will be like WTF!