Looks like you may have a problem with one of your rows. I replied to you in PM with more details. Please make sure you enable email notifications for PMs in deskthority. I didn't have them enabled by default when I signed up.
F104+SSK+122+62+77+50+Ergo orders now open! New Kishsaver+Industrial Model F Keyboards
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Ellipse IBM Model F
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
How exactly does one install the new firmware? I tried
compiling, running `src/util/src/ibm_capsense_usb_util`,
but at this point I don't see any obvious thing to do. I tried
`Store override in EEPROM` under `Voltage Threshold`, but that
didn't change anything.
compiling, running `src/util/src/ibm_capsense_usb_util`,
but at this point I don't see any obvious thing to do. I tried
`Store override in EEPROM` under `Voltage Threshold`, but that
didn't change anything.
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
It depends on the OS you're using. Ellipse has instructions for windows in his blog or I can support you with linux or so.
Tent:wq
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Ellipse IBM Model F
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
great distro!
btw, which image are you going to flash?
anyway in linux it's super easy:
1) make sure you have dfu-programmer installed
2) reset the keyboard to bootloader mode (you can do this from the ibm_capsense_usb_util menu, but in case of issues or what is always working is shorting the two pins that are marked on the xwhatsit controller as "PROG", you'd better off to solder two wires/small switch for this, so do it only/mainly if you plan to do a lot of flashing.. can provide pictures if needed)
3) check that you are correctly into boorloader mode with something like:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 get manufacturer
4) if the above worked you have to first erase the flash with:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force
5) and then you can flash the actual firmware with:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 flash flash_image_name.hex
Depending on what you are flashing you might want/need to erase also the eeprom part of the controller where the layout is stored in xwhatsit's firmwares at least (sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 --suppress-validation --eeprom eeprom_reset.hex as step 3.5)
Kr,
tent:wq
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Ellipse IBM Model F
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Thank you for explaining! Are the .hex files generated from thebtw, which image are you going to flash?
same source as ibm_capsense_usb_util? I can't find any after
cd src/util
qmake
make
I wanted to use the latest from pandrew, that fixes the
fn-down--key-down--fn-up issue.
Last edited by daphnis on 30 Mar 2020, 11:53, edited 1 time in total.
- consolation
- Location: NZ
- Main keyboard: Norbatouch
- Main mouse: deathadder 3.5g
- Favorite switch: how could you pick a single switch...
- DT Pro Member: -
I wonder if the threshold drift and temperature are related. Could the original keyboards have used resistance/impedance as a proxy for temperature and adjusted accordingly?
LOL, maybe we need a preheat circuit; like on old valve electronics, just send a slight current through the matrix till it reaches correct resistance.
LOL, maybe we need a preheat circuit; like on old valve electronics, just send a slight current through the matrix till it reaches correct resistance.
-
- Location: Midwestern US
- Main keyboard: EXT65
- Main mouse: Model O
- Favorite switch: I like too many switches
can I have my keyboard yet?
- wobbled
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB300 Pro 1
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0192
This man right here deserves to have his keyboard at the front of the pile, purely for his choice in usernames.
-
- Location: Malaysia
- Main keyboard: Leopold FC660C
- Main mouse: Locheaptech
- Favorite switch: Bucking Springs
Just want to send thanks for making this. I had a similar problem with the Fn and Left/Right cluster keys to map up Home/End, and quick release of the Fn always caused an extra Left/Right input, causing the text cursor to jump up or down a line. This fixed it!pandrew wrote: ↑22 Mar 2020, 19:48Alright, found another small bug, really hope this is the last one I have to fix
Complete list of patches is:
1) joc's patches on top of official xwhatsit 0.9.0:
https://github.com/purdeaandrei/ibm_cap ... faad659663
2) my patches on top of it all to fix the layering issue
https://github.com/purdeaandrei/ibm_cap ... 3258aac5ae
3) fixing a stupid mistake in 2.
https://github.com/purdeaandrei/ibm_cap ... 9873ffe107
4) fixing another mistake:
https://github.com/purdeaandrei/ibm_cap ... 9f0282fd7c
.hex files attached
cheers,
Andrei
Edit: credit to webwit too for highlighting this issue that led to this being solved
-
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Model M
- Main mouse: Mac Magic Mouse
My new F77 with Unicomp keys for Mac. Spot the location of the media buttons.
It's convinced me to put my Model M in the drawer for now. I think my typing is benefitting from the more precise action.
This one works perfectly at the 122 voltage threshold. The fact that my other one works only between 110 and 97, with several keys still not working, suggests that it has a mechanical problem.
It's convinced me to put my Model M in the drawer for now. I think my typing is benefitting from the more precise action.
This one works perfectly at the 122 voltage threshold. The fact that my other one works only between 110 and 97, with several keys still not working, suggests that it has a mechanical problem.
- Attachments
-
- F77 unicomps.png (1.12 MiB) Viewed 13612 times
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Ellipse IBM Model F
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
I'd like to avoid doing anything that would require me to opententator wrote: ↑30 Mar 2020, 10:50
2) reset the keyboard to bootloader mode (you can do this from
the ibm_capsense_usb_util menu, but in case of issues or what is
always working is shorting the two pins that are marked on the
xwhatsit controller as "PROG", you'd better off to solder two
wires/small switch for this, so do it only/mainly if you plan to
do a lot of flashing.. can provide pictures if needed)
3) check that you are correctly into boorloader mode with something like:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 get manufacturer
4) if the above worked you have to first erase the flash with:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force
5) and then you can flash the actual firmware with:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 flash flash_image_name.hex
Depending on what you are flashing you might want/need to erase
also the eeprom part of the controller where the layout is
stored in xwhatsit's firmwares at least (sudo dfu-programmer
atmega32u2 --suppress-validation --eeprom eeprom_reset.hex as
step 3.5)
the keyboard physically, or, obviously, damage or ruin anything.
Is there any risk of that? If so, could I do anything to
minimize that risk?
Shouldn't I back up the original image first? I tried (after
1--3) to do
% sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 dump
but that gave
0% 100% Reading 0x7000 bytes...
[ X ERROR
Memory read error, use debug for more info.
And, about the EEPROM, wouldn't `erase` erase that too? The man
page says that `erase` erases "all the flash memory". Isn't the
EEPROM a part of all the flash memory?
And why is it necessary to erase before flashing?
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
If you are flashing the xwhatsit firmware then it should be enough to press the reset button from the gui.
Opening the board and unscrew the controller to touch the reset point in case of complications is also an easy and almost risk free operation I'd say.. 4 + 2 screws, nothing more on a classic case.
Yes it's true you cannot dump the current running fw.. that flash is kind of write only.
And yes you always need to erase and then write the flash, won't work otherwise.
In general no worries: I flashed in the last days something like several dozen times the new qmk based fw which is going to be soon released by pandrew.
Again kudos to him for bringing stellar features, performance and reliability to this dream board.. since two days I'm testing a version that autocalibrates at power on: not a glitch, not an issue, no problem with room or temperature skews, even at the bottom row: you will never look back to the old xwhstsit afterwards.
Tent:wq
Opening the board and unscrew the controller to touch the reset point in case of complications is also an easy and almost risk free operation I'd say.. 4 + 2 screws, nothing more on a classic case.
Yes it's true you cannot dump the current running fw.. that flash is kind of write only.
And yes you always need to erase and then write the flash, won't work otherwise.
In general no worries: I flashed in the last days something like several dozen times the new qmk based fw which is going to be soon released by pandrew.
Again kudos to him for bringing stellar features, performance and reliability to this dream board.. since two days I'm testing a version that autocalibrates at power on: not a glitch, not an issue, no problem with room or temperature skews, even at the bottom row: you will never look back to the old xwhstsit afterwards.
Tent:wq
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
And please do keep the comments coming about the beta QMK Model F firmware. Are there currently any downsides compared to the xwhatsit in terms of performance, ease of use, etc.?
hypx thanks for sharing your solenoid video - hopefully you can post some photos of the insides of the keyboard and where to find the additional needed parts.
Nice F77 keyboard layout Spacesaver! Please keep me posted on the issue with your other keyboard.
If a key or row of keys doesn't work, I recommend opening up the keyboard and testing the keys by pressing a flipper manually to each key, as shown in one of the videos posted recently on the project web site blog. If an entire matrix row is bad, I recommend unscrewing the two screws on the controller and flexing the ribbon cable on both sides which has fixed the problem in the past in my experience. Not sure I'd recommend this but a hair dryer or heat gun (not too hot) may help reflow a bad solder joint on the controller. If the controller is determined to be bad, I will send out a replacement controller and ribbon cable (please PM me for details).
hypx thanks for sharing your solenoid video - hopefully you can post some photos of the insides of the keyboard and where to find the additional needed parts.
Nice F77 keyboard layout Spacesaver! Please keep me posted on the issue with your other keyboard.
If a key or row of keys doesn't work, I recommend opening up the keyboard and testing the keys by pressing a flipper manually to each key, as shown in one of the videos posted recently on the project web site blog. If an entire matrix row is bad, I recommend unscrewing the two screws on the controller and flexing the ribbon cable on both sides which has fixed the problem in the past in my experience. Not sure I'd recommend this but a hair dryer or heat gun (not too hot) may help reflow a bad solder joint on the controller. If the controller is determined to be bad, I will send out a replacement controller and ribbon cable (please PM me for details).
- ramnes
- ПБТ НАВСЕГДА
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: KMAC LE
- Main mouse: Zowie AM
- Favorite switch: GPL 104 lubed 62g nixies
- DT Pro Member: -
Glad to see your years old project coming to fruition, Ellipse!
What's the ETA if I put an order today?
Is there any compact F62 that's readily available if I don't need caps?
What's the ETA if I put an order today?
Is there any compact F62 that's readily available if I don't need caps?
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Yes, compact F62 in black (split shift and 2U backspace) or regular gray (standard ANSI) are both ready to ship.
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
As a somewhat unrelated note, someone who purchased some foam to repair their PC AT has decided to post publicly their unhappy experience so I wanted to pre-empt that with my side of things.
The customer noticed that part of the foam was assembled by glue and wanted a replacement. While this is common with a number of the inner foams from the factory, I later agreed that if they just cut up the foam instead of sending it back, I'd mail them a replacement free of charge. They then made some precise cuts to make it work in a PC AT keyboard, and said that they intended on keeping it as a spare. My intention of course was to make sure the foam was cut up in a way that made the foam unusable so that they would not be keeping two foams while having paid for one. The customer interprets the situation as me having reneged on my offer. I didn't expect that "cut up" could be interpreted any other way.
Then less then 20 minutes after the customer asked for a return shipping label (which I sent by email), the customer says that the foam was discarded and they will not return the foam but still want a free replacement.
In the end I refunded the order in full and the original foam was not returned to me but the customer is still not happy with the experience. I am of course open to constructive criticism and suggestions.
The customer noticed that part of the foam was assembled by glue and wanted a replacement. While this is common with a number of the inner foams from the factory, I later agreed that if they just cut up the foam instead of sending it back, I'd mail them a replacement free of charge. They then made some precise cuts to make it work in a PC AT keyboard, and said that they intended on keeping it as a spare. My intention of course was to make sure the foam was cut up in a way that made the foam unusable so that they would not be keeping two foams while having paid for one. The customer interprets the situation as me having reneged on my offer. I didn't expect that "cut up" could be interpreted any other way.
Then less then 20 minutes after the customer asked for a return shipping label (which I sent by email), the customer says that the foam was discarded and they will not return the foam but still want a free replacement.
In the end I refunded the order in full and the original foam was not returned to me but the customer is still not happy with the experience. I am of course open to constructive criticism and suggestions.
-
- Location: republic of ireland
- Main keyboard: ducky zero shine
- Main mouse: zowie fk1+
- Favorite switch: mx blue
I think you were in the wrong by being ambiguous. You should have demanded a picture of the foam cut up before you agreed to a replacement, so that you could not be taken advantage of. I think that since you refunded the order, the customer has no grounds to complain, since the loss is yours.Ellipse wrote: ↑06 Apr 2020, 18:08As a somewhat unrelated note, someone who purchased some foam to repair their PC AT has decided to post publicly their unhappy experience so I wanted to pre-empt that with my side of things.
The customer noticed that part of the foam was assembled by glue and wanted a replacement. While this is common with a number of the inner foams from the factory, I later agreed that if they just cut up the foam instead of sending it back, I'd mail them a replacement free of charge. They then made some precise cuts to make it work in a PC AT keyboard, and said that they intended on keeping it as a spare. My intention of course was to make sure the foam was cut up in a way that made the foam unusable so that they would not be keeping two foams while having paid for one. The customer interprets the situation as me having reneged on my offer. I didn't expect that "cut up" could be interpreted any other way.
Then less then 20 minutes after the customer asked for a return shipping label (which I sent by email), the customer says that the foam was discarded and they will not return the foam but still want a free replacement.
In the end I refunded the order in full and the original foam was not returned to me but the customer is still not happy with the experience. I am of course open to constructive criticism and suggestions.
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Yes you have the right thinking gipetto; that was what I stated to them - cut up the foam and send photo evidence and I'll then send a replacement. The photo they sent back was the foam precisely cut for installation in a PC AT keyboard.
It doesn't make much sense for me to ask the customer to precisely cut the F107 foam to PC AT specifications in order to approve a replacement but that is what the customer told me was their understanding of my offer.
Due to the misunderstanding, in the end the customer has been refunded fully.
It doesn't make much sense for me to ask the customer to precisely cut the F107 foam to PC AT specifications in order to approve a replacement but that is what the customer told me was their understanding of my offer.
Due to the misunderstanding, in the end the customer has been refunded fully.
-
- DT Pro Member: -
Honestly, I think that since you were already prepared to supply a replacement, you should have done so without any strings attached. The customer certainly doesn't look like they were operating in good faith (based on your side), but at the same time, your responses seem a bit petty. If you wanted the defective foam back, you should have provided a return label immediately. If you don't care enough to get the foam back, you should leave the disposal of such at the discretion of the customer. Allowing someone to reuse something defect is both good for landfills and your goodwill - but rather than generate goodwill, it seems that you'd rather escalate the situation.
If I hadn't bought a F62 already, I'd probably hesitate to order now. If this is your response to $25 foam, what happens if something goes wrong when shipping goes out in full swing for $400-600 orders?