F104+SSK+122+62+77+50+Ergo orders now open! New Kishsaver+Industrial Model F Keyboards
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- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: New Model F
- Main mouse: MX Master 2
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
Hi all, just received my board today and trying to follow the QC video to test my board.
First of all, what is the "buzz" srping stand for?
My spacebar seems to be stuck when I hit it when my left thumb with a 20-30 degree angle and this does not happen when I hit it with my right thumb.
First of all, what is the "buzz" srping stand for?
My spacebar seems to be stuck when I hit it when my left thumb with a 20-30 degree angle and this does not happen when I hit it with my right thumb.
- darkcruix
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F F77 Keyboard
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Ellipse version of Buckling Spring / BeamSpring
- DT Pro Member: 0209
Where did you get those keys from? I have them configured exactly like you and wanted to have the keycaps ...xyzzy wrote: ↑22 Jul 2020, 10:07I also love the HHKB form factor (I have been using an HHKB for a long time, which has been replaced by a F62 exactly like yours) and I subscribe to every word you wrote.
The F62 "split backspace, split right shift" is the best keyboard I ever owned, and I am seriously thinking to sell off most of my other keyboards (except maybe a Model M and the HHKB) and get another spare F62.
Regarding the cursor placement, I have also remapped the bottom right modifier group to act as cursor cluster when the keys are pressed on their own, and as standard modifiers (shift, super, alt, control) when pressed together with other keys.
I'm not sure if the stock remapping tool can do this, but you can use a software remapper (like Karabiner in macOS) or the beta QMK firmware.
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- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: Model F62, IBM SSK, HHKB Hybrid
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
You mean the arrow cluster? Those are just a bad graphic work to show how I configured them, in reality all my modifiers are grey/blanks.
If you mean the other white alpha/number keys, they're 2 pieces keycaps taken from an ISO Model M SSK (aka UNI04C6).
If you mean the other white alpha/number keys, they're 2 pieces keycaps taken from an ISO Model M SSK (aka UNI04C6).
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
ash152152 you may want to press down a little on the left side space bar tab as the space bar may be getting caught on it.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: New Model F62
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: buckling-spring
So after playing around with the solenoid, I finally found what seems to be the sweet spot (if you're someone who types fast). 10ms extend and 40ms retract have not caused me any issues whatsoever. Everything else I tried from 5-20, 15-30, 10-20, 20-40, 25-50, 10-30, etc... would all cause the keyboard to regurgiate a bunch of keys i never pressed. Anything higher like 40-80 or etc. were too slow to match the speed at which I was typing and stuff registered weird or some keys didn't get output. I still need to figure out a way to toggle it on and off. I reduced dbz recording the video below, so it may not sound very loud, but trust me it's pretty loud. Loud enough to hear in the other room with a white noise machine on, haha.
I made a quick video too if anyone is interested in here what it sounds like at 110+ WPM typing speeds.
I made a quick video too if anyone is interested in here what it sounds like at 110+ WPM typing speeds.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Sounds good! Nevertheless, I think I'll do without the solenoid.
I'm in awe of anyone who can type 110+ wpm with high accuracy!
I'm in awe of anyone who can type 110+ wpm with high accuracy!
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: New Model F62
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: buckling-spring
Thanks! I will probably keep the solenoid turned off most of the time, but I think it will serve as a good pick-me-up in late afternoons when I start getting tired with whatever I'm working on lol.Hypersphere wrote: ↑22 Jul 2020, 20:24Sounds good! Nevertheless, I think I'll do without the solenoid.
I'm in awe of anyone who can type 110+ wpm with high accuracy!
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@rgleas: Have you found a way to toggle the solenoid by issuing a keyboard command?
The solenoid should also serve as a stimulus for others within earshot -- although you might not appreciate the response to the stimulus!
The solenoid should also serve as a stimulus for others within earshot -- although you might not appreciate the response to the stimulus!
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Could the xwhatsit solenoid toggle command be implemented in QMK?
- tentator
- Location: ZH, CH
- Main keyboard: MX blue tentboard
- Main mouse: Pointing Stick
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue and Model F BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes there are several commands implemented in qmk about it, search for qmk haptic feedback on the wiki (there's HPT_ON and HPT_OFF keycodes and many more for the speed): https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_haptic_fe ... c-keycodesHypersphere wrote: ↑23 Jul 2020, 01:14Could the xwhatsit solenoid toggle command be implemented in QMK?
Tent:wq
- darkcruix
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F F77 Keyboard
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Ellipse version of Buckling Spring / BeamSpring
- DT Pro Member: 0209
And it is working perfectly. I have tested it in the F62.tentator wrote: ↑23 Jul 2020, 09:26Yes there are several commands implemented in qmk about it, search for qmk haptic feedback on the wiki (there's HPT_ON and HPT_OFF keycodes and many more for the speed): https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_haptic_fe ... c-keycodesHypersphere wrote: ↑23 Jul 2020, 01:14Could the xwhatsit solenoid toggle command be implemented in QMK?
Tent:wq
- troglotype
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM AT Model F / F62 / F77
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Great idea! If you did that in QMK, would you mind sharing your keymap.c (or the relevant passage thereof)?xyzzy wrote: ↑22 Jul 2020, 10:07
Regarding the cursor placement, I have also remapped the bottom right modifier group to act as cursor cluster when the keys are pressed on their own, and as standard modifiers (shift, super, alt, control) when pressed together with other keys.
I'm not sure if the stock remapping tool can do this, but you can use a software remapper (like Karabiner in macOS) or the beta QMK firmware.
- darkcruix
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F F77 Keyboard
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Ellipse version of Buckling Spring / BeamSpring
- DT Pro Member: 0209
You need to adjust the config.h and rules.mk as well as shown below. keymap.c is attached
config.h
#pragma once
#define TAPPING_TERM 200
#define TAPPING_TOGGLE 2
#define SOLENOID_MIN_DWELL 40
#define SOLENOID_MAX_DWELL 80
rules.mk
TAP_DANCE_ENABLE = yes
HAPTIC_ENABLE += SOLENOID
config.h
#pragma once
#define TAPPING_TERM 200
#define TAPPING_TOGGLE 2
#define SOLENOID_MIN_DWELL 40
#define SOLENOID_MAX_DWELL 80
rules.mk
TAP_DANCE_ENABLE = yes
HAPTIC_ENABLE += SOLENOID
- LightningXI
- Location: New York, NY
- DT Pro Member: -
@pandrew / @tentator - I'm looking to flash my F62 to QMK. Any instructions would be appreciated as I understand that it is currently in its beta form. I also hope that you guys will consider porting the F62 and F77 over to VIA as well
As per Hypersphere's remarks on GH, I just ordered some Superfloss to try flossmodding and some of those nitrile o-rings.
Thank you
As per Hypersphere's remarks on GH, I just ordered some Superfloss to try flossmodding and some of those nitrile o-rings.
Thank you
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 77 replica
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
I have forced myself back to using my creeky old unicomp for a day. At first it felt incredibly
stiff. I have to "hammer" the keys to work. I realize now how tiring it is for me to type on such
a stiff keyboard.
I am spoiled rotten now. Perhaps typing on a light linear would feel good - but then I have
to put up with the non existent build quality of those.
The biggest compliment I can give to Ellipses Model F reproductions is this: I truly feel sad
that I have put up since '87 (when I had the pleasure to use a Model-F AT for a few weeks)
with nothing but miserable build quality, poor tactility, binding keys and bad typing feel.
Even my Unicomp and my Matias keyboard now feel poorly built and clunky in comparisson. Yes -
the F77 is by far the best keyboard (for typists) that I have ever laid my hands on.
Moving to anything else (that I have) feels like a punishment.
stiff. I have to "hammer" the keys to work. I realize now how tiring it is for me to type on such
a stiff keyboard.
I am spoiled rotten now. Perhaps typing on a light linear would feel good - but then I have
to put up with the non existent build quality of those.
The biggest compliment I can give to Ellipses Model F reproductions is this: I truly feel sad
that I have put up since '87 (when I had the pleasure to use a Model-F AT for a few weeks)
with nothing but miserable build quality, poor tactility, binding keys and bad typing feel.
Even my Unicomp and my Matias keyboard now feel poorly built and clunky in comparisson. Yes -
the F77 is by far the best keyboard (for typists) that I have ever laid my hands on.
Moving to anything else (that I have) feels like a punishment.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@BucklingSprings: I share your enthusiasm for the Ellipse Model F reproductions. However, whereas Cherry mx (and clones) are my least favorite type of switches (although in my estimation silent linears are the best among these), I think there are keyboards employing mx-type switches that have excellent build quality -- Filco comes to mind, for example.
Other boards that I can enjoy in a rotation with my new F62 include Alps-switch boards in excellent condition (such as my Northgate Omnikey 101 with white pine Alps and Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps). Most of all, I still take great pleasure in typing on my HHKB Pro Hybrid Type-S, which I use for quietly taking notes during teleconferences.
Other boards that I can enjoy in a rotation with my new F62 include Alps-switch boards in excellent condition (such as my Northgate Omnikey 101 with white pine Alps and Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps). Most of all, I still take great pleasure in typing on my HHKB Pro Hybrid Type-S, which I use for quietly taking notes during teleconferences.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F Keyboards
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
The custom made solenoids are ready!
Here's a video of the solenoids in action! They sound hefty even before they are attached to a metal case which should add further impact!
Here's a video of the solenoids in action! They sound hefty even before they are attached to a metal case which should add further impact!
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@Admiral: The white stabilizer insert should be flush with the top of the barrel. I had difficulty pushing it in all the way until I put a thin coating of SuperLube synthetic oil on the insert -- after that, a firm push and it was properly seated.
However, I recall seeing a post wherein someone said that they were experiencing binding of a stabilized key and they reportedly solved the problem by leaving the stabilizer insert slightly above the top of the barrel. I had the opposite experience -- I got binding unless the top of the insert was flush with the top of the barrel.
However, I recall seeing a post wherein someone said that they were experiencing binding of a stabilized key and they reportedly solved the problem by leaving the stabilizer insert slightly above the top of the barrel. I had the opposite experience -- I got binding unless the top of the insert was flush with the top of the barrel.
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- Location: USA
Thanks mate. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Part of me wishes the keys were like the AT where the have the middle third be the size of a 1 unit key and the outside of the key just pressed down to the bottom instead, but I guess that would remove the option of extra keys.
And I don't have any sort of lubricant so hopefully I can get it in all the way without having to hammer it in.
And I don't have any sort of lubricant so hopefully I can get it in all the way without having to hammer it in.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: New Model F62
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: buckling-spring
If you do press it down too far, take 2 q-tips. Leave one as is, the other strip off most of the cotton. Push the standard q-tip down as far is it will go, then jam the other one in along side it as far as it will (go with some, but not too much force). Then just grip 'em both, pull up, and wa-la comes out ez pz. I myself, wrecked a barrel in my F77 which I just recently replace, by trying to pry it out in less sensible ways, but I just replaced a full set of keycaps the other day and used Unicomp stabilizers by accident, and they all came out real easy that way.
- darkcruix
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Brand New Model F F77 Keyboard
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Ellipse version of Buckling Spring / BeamSpring
- DT Pro Member: 0209
I had to replace the controller of my F62 (I am stupid and fried it while playing around with the solenoid <-- always be careful with Solenoid controllers and read the manual), So, the F62 had to be taken apart fully for this process. This was a good chance to place one original spring and flipper from a F122 for a key.
Maybe it is my age and loss of hearing but the difference in sound is marginal at best. One thing I notice is the actuation point. The F122 spring buckles earlier (a tiny bit) and feels therefore softer. This can also be due to its age and might have felt exactly like the new springs when it was still young During normal typing I don't feel the difference at all.
Wanted to share this impression with you.
Maybe it is my age and loss of hearing but the difference in sound is marginal at best. One thing I notice is the actuation point. The F122 spring buckles earlier (a tiny bit) and feels therefore softer. This can also be due to its age and might have felt exactly like the new springs when it was still young During normal typing I don't feel the difference at all.
Wanted to share this impression with you.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Floss Mod: Mint or Regular?
This is not meant to be a facetious question! While searching the net for Oral-B Superfloss, the only kind I could find was mint-flavored. This might be a bit of a stretch, but given that imparting a mint flavor would have to involve a chemical treatment of the floss, it is conceivable that the physical properties of the floss could be altered, possibly affecting the sound/feel of floss-modded springs. If I were a better scientist, I would conduct a controlled experiment to test keyboards modded with mint vs. standard floss. As it turns out, I still have some standard floss on hand (although it dates from one of my earliest keyboard projects back in 2014), so that I do not need to try a minty floss mod just yet.
This is not meant to be a facetious question! While searching the net for Oral-B Superfloss, the only kind I could find was mint-flavored. This might be a bit of a stretch, but given that imparting a mint flavor would have to involve a chemical treatment of the floss, it is conceivable that the physical properties of the floss could be altered, possibly affecting the sound/feel of floss-modded springs. If I were a better scientist, I would conduct a controlled experiment to test keyboards modded with mint vs. standard floss. As it turns out, I still have some standard floss on hand (although it dates from one of my earliest keyboard projects back in 2014), so that I do not need to try a minty floss mod just yet.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
USB-C Panel-Mount Connector Installed in my newest Ellipse F62 Keyboard:
For those who might be interested in installing a panel-mount USB-C connector in your standard-case F62 or F77 keyboards, I have posted an easy method with some pics in a new thread in the Workshop Section of DT:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24286&p=468806#p468806
For those who might be interested in installing a panel-mount USB-C connector in your standard-case F62 or F77 keyboards, I have posted an easy method with some pics in a new thread in the Workshop Section of DT:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24286&p=468806#p468806
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- Location: USA
That looks nice. Wish the compacts' USB connectors were flush with the case but what can you do. Just have to be more careful when connecting the cord.
I do have a question. My spacebar seems really quiet compared to my other keys, like the spring isn't buckling, and so when I tried to remove it like in his video it seems to come off without a lot of effort but mine seems stuck. Not sure what the spacebar could be stuck on except for the metal tabs, but that shouldn't prevent me from pulling the spacebar out.
EDIT: Well, I guess it was the wire stabiliser and the angle of the barrel insert on the spacebar from when I try to take it out that makes it stuck. Got it off, so now I just got to reattach it.
EDIT 2: Got it back on. And now I can hear the barrel buckle. Was kinda interesting with it the other way, but I didn't think it would work that way. Man I went through two scares there with the Spacebar clips holding the wire. When I first took it out of the keyboard and it was stuck due to the angle I thought I broke it, but didn't. Then later I was taking the wire out just because and as I was stretching the wire it flung itself across the room Thank God it was fine.
I do have a question. My spacebar seems really quiet compared to my other keys, like the spring isn't buckling, and so when I tried to remove it like in his video it seems to come off without a lot of effort but mine seems stuck. Not sure what the spacebar could be stuck on except for the metal tabs, but that shouldn't prevent me from pulling the spacebar out.
EDIT: Well, I guess it was the wire stabiliser and the angle of the barrel insert on the spacebar from when I try to take it out that makes it stuck. Got it off, so now I just got to reattach it.
EDIT 2: Got it back on. And now I can hear the barrel buckle. Was kinda interesting with it the other way, but I didn't think it would work that way. Man I went through two scares there with the Spacebar clips holding the wire. When I first took it out of the keyboard and it was stuck due to the angle I thought I broke it, but didn't. Then later I was taking the wire out just because and as I was stretching the wire it flung itself across the room Thank God it was fine.