Extreme Model M Modding (m122 chop and 1u layout mod)
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- Location: keyboard
- Main keyboard: keyboard
- Main mouse: keyboard
- Favorite switch: keyboard
My new key board
Here's link to imgur gallery showing the process: https://imgur.com/gallery/yCZXpi6
Extra info: I moved 8 pads (in 2 rows) from the numpad that i chopped off to the spacebar area to make my beautiful 1u layout. I connected them back with wires so that the controller had no idea anything changed. I used single strands from a stranded wire, and attached them to the membrane traces by simply taping them to the traces with copper tape. Even though the tape is copper and the adhesive is supposedly conductive, i did not have good enough results by putting only the tape on the membrane traces (hence why i taped the wire strands themselves to the traces).
Final thoughts:
I do not recommend moving pads on the membrane like I did. Getting the membrane to work is a very delicate dance. I had to reassemble it 13 times, tweaking stuff, putting copper tape under failing pads, etc. It is perfectly working now but I am not confident that it will last forever. In the end, the nav/numpad chop was the easy part. Anyhow i made some mistakes with the membrane surgery that i will share. 1. turns out the top membrane is thinner (presumably since it is the layer that needs to be bent to make contact). I did not realize this until after i put a bottom layer membrane on top, this probably did not help. 2. Melting the membranes together like i did is probably not a great idea after all because it is stiff, which again probably doesnt help with making contact. I should have used copper tape.
Now that i can use my layout i realized a fatal flaw with this keyboard and it is not even my fault: 2kro... turns out when typing fast i often have more than 2 keys pressed at once. This is very annoying. On this keyboard the "you" and "ion" trigrams are especially problematic for me, and they are not exactly uncommon...
Overall its fun keyboard but this is not excellence. The quest continues
Here's link to imgur gallery showing the process: https://imgur.com/gallery/yCZXpi6
Extra info: I moved 8 pads (in 2 rows) from the numpad that i chopped off to the spacebar area to make my beautiful 1u layout. I connected them back with wires so that the controller had no idea anything changed. I used single strands from a stranded wire, and attached them to the membrane traces by simply taping them to the traces with copper tape. Even though the tape is copper and the adhesive is supposedly conductive, i did not have good enough results by putting only the tape on the membrane traces (hence why i taped the wire strands themselves to the traces).
Final thoughts:
I do not recommend moving pads on the membrane like I did. Getting the membrane to work is a very delicate dance. I had to reassemble it 13 times, tweaking stuff, putting copper tape under failing pads, etc. It is perfectly working now but I am not confident that it will last forever. In the end, the nav/numpad chop was the easy part. Anyhow i made some mistakes with the membrane surgery that i will share. 1. turns out the top membrane is thinner (presumably since it is the layer that needs to be bent to make contact). I did not realize this until after i put a bottom layer membrane on top, this probably did not help. 2. Melting the membranes together like i did is probably not a great idea after all because it is stiff, which again probably doesnt help with making contact. I should have used copper tape.
Now that i can use my layout i realized a fatal flaw with this keyboard and it is not even my fault: 2kro... turns out when typing fast i often have more than 2 keys pressed at once. This is very annoying. On this keyboard the "you" and "ion" trigrams are especially problematic for me, and they are not exactly uncommon...
Overall its fun keyboard but this is not excellence. The quest continues
- ddrfraser1
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Changes weekly
- Main mouse: MX MASTER
- Favorite switch: Lubed 55g BKE Redux Domes
- Contact:
Lol, saw this on reddit. Bananas
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
Nice!!!
I would encourage you to consider silver conductive glue/paste for future membrane repairs. It's worked really well for me.
I've also used archival quality packing tape to hold membranes together.
I would encourage you to consider silver conductive glue/paste for future membrane repairs. It's worked really well for me.
I've also used archival quality packing tape to hold membranes together.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
That better be original gangster graffiti!
Why’d you chop the arrow cluster off as well as the (entirely understandable) numpad? A look? Or more of a psychopathy?
Anyway, it’s got attitude, I’ll give it that. Maybe redo the traces like Xmit says and this time pay the original matrix more attention. If you stare at it long enough, it too will speak to you.
Why’d you chop the arrow cluster off as well as the (entirely understandable) numpad? A look? Or more of a psychopathy?
Anyway, it’s got attitude, I’ll give it that. Maybe redo the traces like Xmit says and this time pay the original matrix more attention. If you stare at it long enough, it too will speak to you.
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- Location: keyboard
- Main keyboard: keyboard
- Main mouse: keyboard
- Favorite switch: keyboard
Was considering a conductive glue for attaching the wires but i figured it wouldnt be any thinner than taping them. However using it to draw traces over the tape bridge etc to somewhere with more space to attach wires could definitely be an improvement (some wires are probably unavoidable since the traces would need to overlap). Not too eager to deal with membranes again though
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- Location: keyboard
- Main keyboard: keyboard
- Main mouse: keyboard
- Favorite switch: keyboard
Chopped the arrows off because I have no use for them. One of my thumb keys activates a layer where i have all those arrow keys, home end etc in the alpha blockMuirium wrote: ↑31 Mar 2021, 22:17That better be original gangster graffiti!
Why’d you chop the arrow cluster off as well as the (entirely understandable) numpad? A look? Or more of a psychopathy?
Anyway, it’s got attitude, I’ll give it that. Maybe redo the traces like Xmit says and this time pay the original matrix more attention. If you stare at it long enough, it too will speak to you.
Many lessons learned but i definitely wont be redoing this haha
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- Location: keyboard
- Main keyboard: keyboard
- Main mouse: keyboard
- Favorite switch: keyboard
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Good name. Destroyers are smaller than aircraft carriers, after all, which pretty much describes the full 122.
Sixties, meanwhile, are sneaky: like submarines.
Sixties, meanwhile, are sneaky: like submarines.
- ddrfraser1
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Changes weekly
- Main mouse: MX MASTER
- Favorite switch: Lubed 55g BKE Redux Domes
- Contact:
Needs to be paired with this
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
- ddrfraser1
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Changes weekly
- Main mouse: MX MASTER
- Favorite switch: Lubed 55g BKE Redux Domes
- Contact:
On second thought, you may need to pair it with one of these:
- wcass
- Location: Columbus, OH, USA
- Main keyboard: ibm model m
- Main mouse: kensington expert mouse
- Favorite switch: buckeling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0185
I made this in 2011 and has been my daily driver since. Typing on it right now.
It doesn't show well in the picture, but the Caps Lock key has blue LED indicator under it.
It doesn't show well in the picture, but the Caps Lock key has blue LED indicator under it.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
What the hell is this atrocity of a display?!ddrfraser1 wrote: ↑09 Apr 2021, 15:23On second thought, you may need to pair it with one of these:
170976559_4178552152196913_1391933384787438268_n.jpg
Quadra 950 was a great machine. Quadra 840av ran circles around it but had a way worse case.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
Beautiful!
I really want to do an ANSI mod and an inverted-T arrow mod on an M122, that would make it vastly more usable for me. I just can't deal with the plus shaped arrow cluster. I could just cover the down arrow location but even better would be to move barrels around.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
It'd be easy enough to remove the barrel (perhaps destructively on an M122) and just cover it, too.
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- Location: Philadelphia
- Main keyboard: IBM MOPAR FSSK
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 Lightspeed
- Favorite switch: Brown Alps
- Contact:
Funnily enough, I actually slightly prefer having a cross nav rather than a T nav. Binding the key in the middle to space makes it even better!XMIT wrote: ↑17 Apr 2021, 18:03Beautiful!
I really want to do an ANSI mod and an inverted-T arrow mod on an M122, that would make it vastly more usable for me. I just can't deal with the plus shaped arrow cluster. I could just cover the down arrow location but even better would be to move barrels around.
- an_achronism
- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: IBM 5150 Personal Computer keyboard (1981)
- Main mouse: Gigabyte GM-M6880X
- Favorite switch: Capacitive buckling spring (IBM F models)
- Contact:
This is lovely. I think one of the things I'll be doing with my F77 is sticking some indicator LEDs under various keys for lock lights etc. Only thing being I'm not really sure where to light for Scroll Lock on an F77. I'd probably go for upper nav cluster on a bigger layout, but I intend to flip back and forth between num lock and nav functions on the RHS grid. Perhaps I could just put both Num Lock and Scroll Lock LEDs under that grid, but use different coloured LEDs for each.
I wonder how easy it would be to figure out how to get a functional Compose key LED going on it... I would assume that they only exist in Set 3 boards but apparently there is a setting to light the Compose LED on WinCompose, which I have to assume means that it's doable!
- wcass
- Location: Columbus, OH, USA
- Main keyboard: ibm model m
- Main mouse: kensington expert mouse
- Favorite switch: buckeling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0185
i posted how i did the lighting for this back in 2011 on GeekHack. For anyone interested, ... https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21436.msg406236
- an_achronism
- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: IBM 5150 Personal Computer keyboard (1981)
- Main mouse: Gigabyte GM-M6880X
- Favorite switch: Capacitive buckling spring (IBM F models)
- Contact:
I know, I think it's linked somewhere on the Model F Keyboards site! (If I recall correctly, I found it in the Q&A section while looking for something unrelated. Which was ideal, because I was already thinking that it would be cool to do, but hadn't begun researching it!) Thanks for putting that together.wcass wrote: ↑05 May 2021, 01:43i posted how i did the lighting for this back in 2011 on GeekHack. For anyone interested, ... https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21436.msg406236
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Drop Alt High Profile
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Glorious Panda
Very nice!
I have some junked up 122s that I bought for parts and was thinking of doing something like this. Ideally, something like a 65% (plus the upper and left function keys) with split right Shift.
Three questions, if I may:
1) When you cut the membrane, is there anything you need to do regarding the exposed leads? Maybe just cover with tape?
2) How possible would it be to turn the chopped off numpad into a stand-alone macro pad? I’m not good with power tools and I’m not any kind of electrical engineer, but I can follow directions pretty well if the solution is something like “plunder a controller board and solder the leads to the numpad (maybe adding a Soarer’s or xwhatzit).”
3) And, for a really big stretch, is it possible to have two controllers in one board? I strongly prefer capacitive buckling springs, but don’t really care about them except for the main portion. Could I get a FSSK PCB and Model F flippers and create a Franken-Unsaver with a FSSK embedded in a M122 case?
I have some junked up 122s that I bought for parts and was thinking of doing something like this. Ideally, something like a 65% (plus the upper and left function keys) with split right Shift.
Three questions, if I may:
1) When you cut the membrane, is there anything you need to do regarding the exposed leads? Maybe just cover with tape?
2) How possible would it be to turn the chopped off numpad into a stand-alone macro pad? I’m not good with power tools and I’m not any kind of electrical engineer, but I can follow directions pretty well if the solution is something like “plunder a controller board and solder the leads to the numpad (maybe adding a Soarer’s or xwhatzit).”
3) And, for a really big stretch, is it possible to have two controllers in one board? I strongly prefer capacitive buckling springs, but don’t really care about them except for the main portion. Could I get a FSSK PCB and Model F flippers and create a Franken-Unsaver with a FSSK embedded in a M122 case?
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
It's easier if you just fold the membrane under and don't cut anything.
I have tried this a few times and ancient IBM cases are made of plastics that are frustratingly hard to join with the strength that is required. And the 2nd problem is that the original colors and textures are devilishly hard to re-create.
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- Location: Beamspringville
- Main keyboard: 4704
- DT Pro Member: 0186
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- Location: keyboard
- Main keyboard: keyboard
- Main mouse: keyboard
- Favorite switch: keyboard
Forgot to give an update
It worked perfectly for about a week, then a key on the bottom row failed. Didn't bother fixing it as the 2KRO drives me crazy anyway.
Thankfully I recorded a typing video while it still worked, finally got around to uploading it:
It worked perfectly for about a week, then a key on the bottom row failed. Didn't bother fixing it as the 2KRO drives me crazy anyway.
Thankfully I recorded a typing video while it still worked, finally got around to uploading it:
- doomsday_device
- Location: Germany
- Favorite switch: alps
i love it so much
hi fricked
you should fix it
hi fricked
you should fix it