Model F XT not working with DIY Soarer's converter

Rami · 05 Jul 2021, 22:06

I built my own Soarer's converter a while ago to use my Zenith Z-150 and Leading Edge DC-2014 keyboards with and it works perfectly with those. This converter uses a Teensy 2.0 and Soarer's firmware 1.12; and it has the 5th reset pin wired in.

I recently got this Model F XT hoping to use it with this converter. But unlike the former two keyboards mentioned, this one did not work with my converter. I opened up the keyboard just to double check that everything on the PCB looked good and couldn't notice any issues on it. Overall it's in great condition. I've never seen a Model F in person before this so I'm completely new to this keyboard and I could very well be doing something obviously wrong, but at the moment I can't think of what else to check and would appreciate any advice

TNT · 05 Jul 2021, 23:20

Maybe you can give Hasu's software a try? (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=103648.0) I've only used Orihalcon's Soarer's converter so far and I always thought you needed Hasu's firmware to make for example the Z-150 work. Didn't even know the trick with the two pullup resistors worked with soarer's. Since your controller's reprogram button is easily reachable, it shouldn't be too much of a problem to try it out, right?

Typing this on my F XT via my Hasu's converter. I pulled it out just to test and make sure it works without any problems. Sorry I couldn't give any tips which could directly help you in your situation.

Rami · 06 Jul 2021, 02:40

TNT wrote: ↑
05 Jul 2021, 23:20
Maybe you can give Hasu's software a try? (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=103648.0) I've only used Orihalcon's Soarer's converter so far and I always thought you needed Hasu's firmware to make for example the Z-150 work. Didn't even know the trick with the two pullup resistors worked with soarer's. Since your controller's reprogram button is easily reachable, it shouldn't be too much of a problem to try it out, right?

Typing this on my F XT via my Hasu's converter. I pulled it out just to test and make sure it works without any problems. Sorry I couldn't give any tips which could directly help you in your situation.

Thanks for the heads up! I have Hasu's firmware in my Teensy directory and I will try it out when I get back home to my computer.

Rami · 06 Jul 2021, 06:29

I tried it with the Hasu firmware but it still didn't work.

John Doe · 06 Jul 2021, 06:38

I did meet like two xts (out of 20 probably?)that didn't work with Soarer or TMK converter, and finally replaced the PCB with another xt as donor. Doubt there're components on the PCB got demaged but I never tried to figure out. Perhaps you should put your effort into that direction, but im not expert tho.

TNT · 06 Jul 2021, 09:32

Do you have any way of testing the keyboard on a genuine XT port?

ntv242ver2 · 06 Jul 2021, 10:26

triple check the pint out i guess, that is the only thing I really could think of. Otherwise, buy a pro micro and make another converter for this one only, I would.

Bjerrk · 06 Jul 2021, 11:12

ntv242ver2 wrote: ↑
06 Jul 2021, 10:26
triple check the pint out i guess

Mate, the pint goes in, not out!

Rami · 06 Jul 2021, 20:19

TNT wrote: ↑
06 Jul 2021, 09:32
Do you have any way of testing the keyboard on a genuine XT port?

I don't unfortunately. I have lots of vintage computers but no XT class ones.

Rami · 06 Jul 2021, 20:21

ntv242ver2 wrote: ↑
06 Jul 2021, 10:26
triple check the pint out i guess, that is the only thing I really could think of. Otherwise, buy a pro micro and make another converter for this one only, I would.

Yeah that might be my only option. It could be that the keyboard doesn't like the reset pin.

wim_board · 06 Jul 2021, 21:02

Hi,

A couple of thoughts: if your converter works with two other keyboards, don't try to fix that. It should identify what protocol to use, but if you've reprogrammed it you might've changed something there. If you haven't, leave the converter alone.
I got an XT a short while ago and had some trouble with the grounding. It outputed spam for a while and then went quiet. Check the ground.
The cable should be grounded into the case, placed on the right chassis screw. The board should be grounded into the plate with a brass screw - make sure that's tight.

Just my two cent. Best of luck to you!