Various resto-mods

[jsheradin]

I've been filling my quarantine boredom with a lot of keyboard projects. With a couple exceptions, all of these have been fully run through, ultrasonic cleaned, sous-vide retrobrighted, lubed, plates repainted, internally USB converted, etc.

In roughly chronological order:

Apple M0110

Spoiler:

Bluetooth

Wyse WY60

Spoiler:

Geac 8340

Spoiler:

My PCB design

Apple M0110A

Spoiler:

I got a NOS-ish one with Mitsumi switches but was pretty disappointed in them. Robbed the guts from an SKCC model and got a PCB design from a guy on GH.

TI Silent 700

Spoiler:

I had to buy a 56k modem to make it work.

Cherry POS

Spoiler:

Case was pretty scuffed so I tried out some hammer-tone paint.

CM Storm QFR

Spoiler:

Had this board since the Ripster days. Switched it out to some 1988 blacks from a WY60 missing half it's caps.

NMB PC122

Spoiler:

Unfortunately didn't send release codes so I did a full brain replacement.

Dactyl Manuform

Spoiler:

Since I had some browns now laying around. Caps are doubleshot ABS and came off a random rubber-dome.

Apple AEK

Spoiler:

Kaypro

Spoiler:

IBM 5576

Spoiler:

3M Whisper

Spoiler:

My PCB design.

Chicony 5181

Spoiler:

I robbed the case from a 5181 with some Aristole switches that were pretty intermittent. Stole the doubleshot caps off the Dactyl since I barely use it.

Wyse PCE

Spoiler:

Calcomp

Spoiler:

Alps64

Spoiler:

ADDS 1010

Spoiler:

My PCB design.

Chicony split

Spoiler:

Still working on a way to make a new sticker since I haven't been able to clean it up.

Apple ADB

Spoiler:

WysePC

Spoiler:

Focus FK 747

Spoiler:

IBM F AT

Spoiler:

IBM 5251

Spoiler:

There's a few more in the works and a bunch that I don't have good photos of the process but you get the idea.

[JP!]

Excellent work and dedication!

[John Doe]

I could imagine how much effort and time you put into this, good job, man.

[Rayndalf]

I love that you actually made new PCBs for totally forgotten boards like the 3M Whisperwriter and the GEAC 8340 but no one ever made new PCBs for fullsize Alps boards like the SGI Granite. There are only like 15 GEACs out there. It's great.

[zrrion]

Now this is some high quality work! keep up the great restorations

[Hak Foo]

I love that you actually made new PCBs for totally forgotten boards like the 3M Whisperwriter and the GEAC 8340 but no one ever made new PCBs for fullsize Alps boards like the SGI Granite. There are only like 15 GEACs out there. It's great.

BlindAssassin111 did some replacement PCBs for the AT101W; not sure if it would fit other Bigfoot boards.

I suspect we're approaching a PCB singularity-- we're probably 70% of the way to "accurately render the board in keyboard-layout-editor, click three buttons, and you'll get a file you can sned to JLCPCB" for a lot of non-complex PCB designs.

[Mattelec]

What caps did you use in the ALPS64?

[jsheradin]

What caps did you use in the ALPS64?

They're front print KBParadise ALPS V60 Vintage ABS.

Not the nicest caps (pretty thin) but they do the job. I'm having a hard time finding the Tai Hao set I want in stock anywhere.

[anthonymak]

all very well done. congratulations !

[depletedvespene]

Impressive body of work. Keep going!

[Muirium]

Love the Bluetooth M0110. Really have to do that with mine someday.

Also really like the sneaky socket upgrade on the ADB board.

If turn-key PCBs become a thing, my pre-PS/2 (no Bigfoot!) SGI Granite could really use one. The keyboard's in excellent shape, and has real character, but the protocol is undeciphered and I think it even needs more voltage than USB anyway. A real outlier.

[jsheradin]

Thanks!

If turn-key PCBs become a thing, my pre-PS/2 (no Bigfoot!) SGI Granite could really use one.

I've been keeping an eye out for one of the grey speckled SGIs but they seem pretty hard to find.

I jotted down my from scratch PCB design process if anyone who has one wants to give it a shot. It should be simpler than what's in the guide since alps are a known footprint. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25613

[Muirium]

Cool! Nice to see it done. Something tells me if I went solo on this model, I'd have MOQ-1 PCBs on my hands for years to come.

[jsheradin]

Salvaged a couple more boards from the recycler.

Unicomp M

Spoiler:

This had been through a couple rain storms and unfortunately there was a bit of rot on the membrane.

Protype

Spoiler:

Also rained on before I found it but luckily there was no corrosion. It speaks a non-standard serial that didn't want to play nice with hardware UART so I went with a controller swap. The IC was the same footprint as a Teensy++ 2.0 so it turned out pretty tidy.

Also needed a normal-ish layout quieter board for the office.

Filco

Spoiler:

Came with knockoff Alps that were pretty bindy and didn't have the nicest tactility. Threw in some Matias quiet clicks that get the job done.

[jsheradin]

A few more:

TEC 535:

Spoiler:

Adds Regent 25:

Spoiler:

Viatron:

Spoiler:

[jsheradin]

Racecar season took most of my time recently but I snuck in a couple projects. The weather's rapidly deteriorating for the year so I imagine I'll be knocking out a few more soon.

HP 264x

Spoiler:

M0116

Spoiler:

SKM-1030

Spoiler:

Preh Commander

Spoiler:

Laser

Spoiler:

[hellothere]

Hey, someone else did a Wyse 60!

Did you use a Soarer's WYSEverter or something else?

[jsheradin]

Hey, someone else did a Wyse 60!

Did you use a Soarer's WYSEverter or something else?

WYSEverter indeed. There's just enough room inside to cram a controller and a USB extension cable.

Spoiler:

IMG_20210111_003247_345.jpg (34.7 KiB) Viewed 38347 times

[hellothere]

Hey, someone else did a Wyse 60!

Did you use a Soarer's WYSEverter or something else?

WYSEverter indeed. There's just enough room inside to cram a controller and a USB extension cable.

Spoiler:

IMG_20210111_003247_345.jpg

Very nice!

My Wyse has suffered critical existence failure on a couple key caps, so I've ordered a set of Dots (not this specific set, but you get the idea) to replace them.

I've also been experimenting with parts and small project boxes to make an external converter. You never know when you need to use that Wyse terminal!

[John Doe]

You even lubed the 2645 ITW magnetic valve switches? how about the keyfeel after? I think it should be good enough for the long travel switches before that but curious about the result also.

[jsheradin]

You even lubed the 2645 ITW magnetic valve switches? how about the keyfeel after? I think it should be good enough for the long travel switches before that but curious about the result also.

They're pretty long travel with a stiff spring (something like 80g I'd guess) but being so tall they bound up easily. I was very sparing with the application and they turned out great IMO. It completely eliminated the binding and squeaking that it had.

I have another one of these boards (part of a complete 2648A terminal) that is almost unusable with how much it binds despite looking decently clean. The squeaking is hilariously loud too; board honestly sounds like a bag of mice.

[lukebpalmer]

How's that Kaypro 4 keyboard you got? I'm considering getting my hands on one but I'm not sure if it'll be a pain to actually use.

My current boys are IBM and they're a dream for typing...but in a review I heard the fixed angle of this keyboard is quite uncomfortable and the keys can be sticky feeling.

[jsheradin]

How's that Kaypro 4 keyboard you got? I'm considering getting my hands on one but I'm not sure if it'll be a pain to actually use.

My current boys are IBM and they're a dream for typing...but in a review I heard the fixed angle of this keyboard is quite uncomfortable and the keys can be sticky feeling.

I like my boards with a decent rake so it's OK to me as far as angle. The SMK switches are pretty smooth and don't bind/stick but they're strangely short travel, quite light, and activate very shallowly on the press. With the board being so tall you kind of need to hover-hand since there's no good place to rest your wrists. It can get fatiguing after a lot of use and I occasionally get some accidental presses.

Overall a nice board but, for me at least, it's not a better typing experience than a trusty model M. A tall wrist rest would help it a ton ergonomically.

[snufflecat]

I would pay money for a video series explaining how to make converters for obscure boards...

[Muirium]

I know, right? You wizards who just breathe life into these controllers do realise you are wizards, right? Telling us it can be done isn’t the same thing as sharing your work.

[jsheradin]

Well worn no-name MX

Spoiler:

MXs really are good for 50million+ it seems

Wrist rest for 5251

Spoiler:

So expanding foam had way more force than I was expecting. Take 2:

M122

Spoiler:

PC8801

Spoiler:

Z150

Spoiler:

My phone insists on making it look black. To the eye it's a dark chocolate brown.

Omnikey

Spoiler:

Switches were in horrible shape and very brittle. Ended up using some of the NOS whites from Korea that have been popping up.

Square badge M

Spoiler:

[John Doe]

Whoa, wrist rest is so fantastic, almost should be treated as part of the board.

[inozenz]

i love these posts! really great job!

[mmm]

Thanks for sharing these, they are a delight to go through.

[headphone_jack]

Whoa, that Viatron. How close did you ever get to figuring out the protocol? I've seen more than a few of those now and would love to see one in actual operation. From what I understand the keys are locked without power, like a Selectric. Did you ever manage to get them to unlock?