I have a pile of vintage blacks that I pulled out of a Wyse PCE (for restoration!), and they're filthy. Covered in corrosion from the PCB, gunk, etc.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I picked up from Amazon, and I'd like to clean the switches properly. However, I really don't want to spend a bunch of time cleaning each one for x minutes, one at a time (especially not for 100 of them!).
My question is: Should I keep the parts of a switch together when doing this, cleaning one at a time, or should I just do like 3 runs (one for all of the stems, tops, and bottoms)?
Vintage Blacks cleaning, matching parts
- Bjerrk
- Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
- Main keyboard: Cherry G80-1800 & Models F & M
- Main mouse: Mouse Keys, Trackpoint, Trackball
- Favorite switch: IBM Buckling Springs+Beamspring, Alps Plate Spring
No particular reason to keep them together. Good luck with the sonic'ing - the quality of ultrasound cleaners seems highly variable!
- drevyek
- Location: US-CA
- Main keyboard: Leopold FC980C
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah, I'm not entirely sure how good this one is. I'm getting some scale off, but I may need to run it for longer on the particularly grimy ones. I'm currently going for 10 minutes per run.
And good to know, thanks! I'll just dump them all in. Makes it a lot easier to have a bag for each.
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
By keeping the parts together, you can elliminate the need for annoying mods like that damn annoying paper mod.
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- Main keyboard: 15x4 Ortho
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Blue
my method:drevyek wrote: ↑02 Dec 2021, 04:30I have a pile of vintage blacks that I pulled out of a Wyse PCE (for restoration!), and they're filthy. Covered in corrosion from the PCB, gunk, etc.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I picked up from Amazon, and I'd like to clean the switches properly. However, I really don't want to spend a bunch of time cleaning each one for x minutes, one at a time (especially not for 100 of them!).
My question is: Should I keep the parts of a switch together when doing this, cleaning one at a time, or should I just do like 3 runs (one for all of the stems, tops, and bottoms)?
1. disassemble all switches (must)
2. soak/shake in soapy water
3. rinse it all under tap water for a good amount of time. I use a shower head.
4. soak / shake them in ethanol or isopropanol (optional)
4. put them in ultra sonic cleaner (use distilled water) or just rinse them twice with distilled water
5. let them dry
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
I'd use ipropropanol last, why is the last step water?Easy_Spinach wrote: ↑19 Dec 2021, 00:49my method:drevyek wrote: ↑02 Dec 2021, 04:30I have a pile of vintage blacks that I pulled out of a Wyse PCE (for restoration!), and they're filthy. Covered in corrosion from the PCB, gunk, etc.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I picked up from Amazon, and I'd like to clean the switches properly. However, I really don't want to spend a bunch of time cleaning each one for x minutes, one at a time (especially not for 100 of them!).
My question is: Should I keep the parts of a switch together when doing this, cleaning one at a time, or should I just do like 3 runs (one for all of the stems, tops, and bottoms)?
1. disassemble all switches (must)
2. soak/shake in soapy water
3. rinse it all under tap water for a good amount of time. I use a shower head.
4. soak / shake them in ethanol or isopropanol (optional)
4. put them in ultra sonic cleaner (use distilled water) or just rinse them twice with distilled water
5. let them dry
-
- Main keyboard: 15x4 Ortho
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Blue
Was my initial idea too, but I noticed that it leaves a whiteish residue on the switches. I believe that the alcohol dissolves some of the flux in the solder. Could be other reasons, but thats why the last step is distilled water.gianni wrote: ↑19 Dec 2021, 06:40I'd use ipropropanol last, why is the last step water?Easy_Spinach wrote: ↑19 Dec 2021, 00:49my method:drevyek wrote: ↑02 Dec 2021, 04:30I have a pile of vintage blacks that I pulled out of a Wyse PCE (for restoration!), and they're filthy. Covered in corrosion from the PCB, gunk, etc.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I picked up from Amazon, and I'd like to clean the switches properly. However, I really don't want to spend a bunch of time cleaning each one for x minutes, one at a time (especially not for 100 of them!).
My question is: Should I keep the parts of a switch together when doing this, cleaning one at a time, or should I just do like 3 runs (one for all of the stems, tops, and bottoms)?
1. disassemble all switches (must)
2. soak/shake in soapy water
3. rinse it all under tap water for a good amount of time. I use a shower head.
4. soak / shake them in ethanol or isopropanol (optional)
4. put them in ultra sonic cleaner (use distilled water) or just rinse them twice with distilled water
5. let them dry