Yasu0 wrote: ↑10 May 2022, 00:53
Get a fat tip iron that has more thermal inertia than a $6 iron, try to heat the substrate you will be applying the solder to first. Do not melt the solder directly with the iron. When you touch the solder to the pre-heated wire or whatever it is, it should flow.
Sometimes having a higher wattage iron or larger iron can allow you to transfer LESS heat into your work piece than a low wattage small iron. Because the time required is less. I'm average skill wise, so take that with some salt, but I've found it to be true for me. Even if you end up rolling your own, its good to have a pro built soarers to test against. I'd get some flux also, even if you are using flux solder.
Ooooh, this is all amazing stuff. I saw a video using the method you described, though not exactly, and that sounds so clean. I can't wait to try it. Thank you a ton for going into such detail on this. I absolutely will be researching more as I go down into this rabbit hole but it helps so immensely to have some expert advice.
I also wanted to maybe one day attempt the Switch hard mod (not until I'm MUCH more confident/practiced). So I have been considering what kinds of new equipment I can get that might help me later down the line or offer some versatility as well. I definitely had issues heating with my trash iron, it also seemed like the tip was caked with nonsense that was blocking the heat transfer.
I've promised myself that now that I have peace of mind (and am patiently restoring/cleaning this beast) that I wanted to successfully accomplish a Soarer's converter on my own. It's honestly so nice to have a project to motivate me.
Also, noted about the flux. I read a bit more about how it works and what it does. I won't survive seriously without some flux. I've properly learned the hell of chasing balls of solder around that just don't want to play nice. Never again.
As I'm not the OP in that thread or a Moderator, so I can't really "edit" things, I just added a few extra things in the thread.
Ah, that makes perfect sense. Thanks, I will check through the thread. I'm sure I will learn a ton more in general as well.
The later versions of the TMK converters I've been building are like the orihalcon converters: you plug in the existing keyboard cable to the converter and plug the USB into your computer. Mine don't look anywhere near as nice as orihalcon's, but they work.
I was a bit amazed, despite not knowing much, that so much was packed into such a small enclosure (after being exposed to a pro micro). It still seems way more micro
I actually remember digging through the TMK firmware collection but am not too familiar with the differences a TMK converter might have, maybe in terms of hardware? Some pictures I just looked up looked a bit different than the usual Teensy/Micro stuff I've seen. (Still don't know how orihalcon's looks so small, I guess that's definitely not a pro micro)
Those are almost identical to the ones I played with, so you should be set.
Amazing, I can't wait to play around. Now that I respect the learning curve a bit more, I can actually take my time and learn. And I desperately need some soldering wins hahahah
X-Tronic / Hakko / Weller recommendations:
I appreciate this so much. I was in between "I should just wait until I can buy the endgame MAX quality iron, something like 2-300" OR accept I probably need a mid range first. Again, my only two immediate considerations are whether I can use this for both a pro micro type project AND a much smaller scale chip board like the one on the Switch. So I have plenty more research to do and this helps.
Desoldering:
Sounds like something I might need to do to revive my pro micro hwahahahah I also wore the two J1 jumper pads out a bit and might even also need a scraping pen, I believe it's called, to be able to salvage what connection is left. I've seen some starting kits on Amazon with various accessories but I feel like I should just be a bit more patient and buy slightly nicer things separately over time.
Same with your solder rec, yup, I've also heard about lead being easier to use. I just have to set up a bit of ventilation but I keep thinking that's where I need to go next. Didn't know about the +tin, I will read more. And 0.8mm also gives me precious context for some key features, like all the other advice you both have given me, that I can focus on which makes this all so much less overwhelming to be freshly into.
Your flux rec:
Oooh, that looks really interesting actually. I thought at first liquid was the way to go but I'm warming up to having a paste. Multiple have said that a tub just lasts 'practically forever' and I just want something that works. I'll look more into that brand. THANK you again!!
As for the rest, I may post some pictures in the coming days. I know that seems to be a thing on these boards for before/after or restoration progress type projects. But I'm not sure if that's better for a separate thread where I describe my experience, what I did/bought, and maybe unique things I ran into and how I dealt with them? I'm not sure. Maybe you guys could speak to the net value of 'yet another' Model F XT restoration hahahah
(By the way, if I break something, I hear from a little bird you might have some extra parts muahahahah, I might come a'knockin)
<3
