[IC] FSSK Metal Plate | Completed

[taylorswiftttttt]

This thread is for a ̶G̶r̶o̶u̶p̶ ̶B̶u̶y̶ sale of my Metal FSSK top plate.

Assembly guide: viewtopic.php?p=512498#p512498


Final update: Completed.
Update 3/11/2023: Partway through sending invoices.
Update 2/16/2023: Manufacturing completed.


Update 1/25/2023: Plates and foam arrived. Bending.
Update 12/23/2022: PCBs and controllers arrived, plates and foam ordered.
Update 11/30/2022: PCBs and Controllers ordered.
Update 11/18/2022: AT barrel support added, PCB price quote added.

These pictures are of the prototype.




What this project IS:
- A reasonably simple kit to convert an SSK to a Model F-style internal assembly
- A significant improvement in sound over the original FSSK

What this project is NOT:
- A fully assembled, drop-in replacement for the SSK internal assembly
- For people who aren't comfortable DIYing and working with their hands
- Perfect

Why?
A normal "FSSK" uses the plastic Model M barrel plate. I do NOT like the sound it makes. It's really loud and doesn't really sound like a Model F at all.
To get closer to the Model F sound, we need to have the Model F assembly consisting of F barrels, a sheet of foam, and a metal top plate.

Sound tests:

Spoiler:

2022 Metal Plate FSSK:
https://voca.ro/14lwPVqY7il0

1987 Model M:
https://voca.ro/11TVHPzVLSbv

1984 F122:
https://voca.ro/1iW8DDAXuCas

The F122 is pretty loud because the the foam isn't thick enough and the barrels are a little loose. The FSSK is nice and tight. Unfortunately I don't have an original FSSK assembled to do a soundtest with (I only have one PCB).

What it looks like without the case:


Additional images:

Spoiler:

My terrible paintjob has nothing to do with the the group buy. I just cut down an M101 barrel plate so I could have a spare SSK backplate.

Parts:

• 1.2mm (18-guage) 304 Stainless Steel top plate lasercut from Ponoko and bent in my garage on the slip roller I built. It attaches to the original SSK backplate with 10 M3x10mm and 1 M2x10mm screws tapped into the plate. Assembly requires the cutting the back corner off two barrels for the screw in the middle of the alpha cluster. Modifying the barrels takes about 5 minutes and the functionality of the barrels is not affected.
  
  The plate has spaces for winkeys and the extra key to the right of the spacebar on the Mini M. It also can accept two extra barrels around the arrow keys. The holes between the F row and the alpha cluster are non-functional and are only there to achieve a more uniform bend radius.
• 2mm EVA Foam sheet lasercut from Ponoko
• Stabilizer clips bent out of scrap sheet metal by me, attaching to the plate with M3x4mm screws.
  I recommend that the user adds tape to the plate and the clips like I've done on my prototype; otherwise the spacebar rattles quite a bit due to the metal-metal contact. Each stabilizer clip is accompanied by one washer.
• Hardware consisting of 2 M3x4mm stabilizer clip screws, 10 M3x10mm plate screws, 1 M2x10mm plate screw, and 11 M3 washers
  The top row of screws interfere with the case between the alpha cluster and the F row. The ends must be flush with the plate. 3 washers each on the other side is enough to achieve this.
• FSSK v1.00b PCB designed by idollar. Looks like everyone needs a PCB.
• SMD Model F Controller designed by pandrew. These will be ordered assembled from JLCPCB. The Pro Micro may or may not come soldered. I haven't decided yet.

Parts necessary for completion that are not included:

• 84 Model F Flippers and 89 XT Model F Barrels - I can supply SOME barrels, as I have parted out a couple Model F XTs, but I cannot supply complete kits. For example, you had one F XT's worth of barrels and flippers (83 flippers and 82 barrels), I could supplement the few extra ones necessary.
• Wire to connect the PCB to the controller - I used an IDE cable which was pretty ass. If there's wire of a certain pitch that would work, I could buy some.

Things that will change from prototype to the final product:

• The prototype plates are unfinished cold-rolled steel. The production plates will be SAE 304 Stainless Steel, which will be shinier and shouldn't rust.
• The plate screws will be 10mm low-profile phillips head, which will protrude less from the plate. The ones I used in the prototype are 12mm hex head.
• The center plate screw will be M2, not M3. The prototype uses an M3 because it was all I had. It required me to remove too much material from the two surrounding barrels for comfort, so the final will be M2.
• The plate will have smaller bezels, in order to better accommodate the Mini M. However, Mini M compatibility is still unconfirmed.

Pricing:

This is the final price. Optional items are in yellow, required items are in blue.



Notes on the price:

Spoiler:

I'm adding a flat $5.00 charge to each order for my labor and for the parts. Bending and cutting each plate alone takes north of 2 hours. There's also the price of all the tools I had to buy and the hours I spent making the slip roller. I'm making a huge loss on this anyway in money and time, so I'm just trying to offset that a tiny bit.

Things I want to be absolutely crystal clear about:

• These plates are handmade. They will be fully functional, obviously, but not cosmetically perfect. Think of them all as B-stock.
• The original SSK backplate is reused, unmodified. No backplate is included in this kit.
• The plate is 100% my work. I spent hours measuring an SSK barrel plate, drafting it in solidworks, building a slip roller, and revising it over and over again.

Questions that I anticipate will be frequently asked:

• Starting with a regular FSSK, what tools are necessary to assemble this kit?
  A phillips head screwdriver. That's it. Maybe some pliers. Assembly takes about 10 minutes and you don't need any clamps.
• Is this compatible with the Mini M?
  I don't know. I sold my Mini M. The bolt pattern should be the same, but the Mini M has less space on either side. Since making the prototype, I have changed the design to be less wide.
• Can you make a fullsize version?
  Not at this time.
• What layouts are supported?
  ISO, ANSI, whatever you can do with a normal SSK. I have not bothered to make a revision of the FSSK PCB that includes the extra keys around the arrow cluster or the extra key to the right of the spacebar.
• Does it sound exactly like a Model F?
  That depends. Model Fs all sound different because of the different case designs. I think it sounds similar to an F XT. I think it sounds way better than my FSSK that reuses the Model M barrelplate.
• What is the official name for this?
  I think "Metal Plate FSSK" is pretty accurate.

Interest check form [CLOSED]:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIp ... A/viewform
Those who fill out this form will be first in line for the more finalized order form. I reserve the right to refuse to do business with people I don't like.

I respectfully request that this thread is kept on-topic and free of garbage off-topic shitposting.

I will respond faster on discord (tamsin#7775).

[John Doe]

Wow , impressive job

[Meowmaritus]

This looks amazing. Could you upload a video of how it sounds to type on the fully assembled board?

[taylorswiftttttt]

This looks amazing. Could you upload a video of how it sounds to type on the fully assembled board?

of course. Here are three recordings for comparison:

2022 Metal Plate FSSK:
https://voca.ro/14lwPVqY7il0

1987 Model M:
https://voca.ro/11TVHPzVLSbv

1984 F122:
https://voca.ro/1iW8DDAXuCas

The F122 is pretty loud because the the foam isn't thick enough and the barrels are a little loose. The FSSK is nice and tight. Unfortunately I don't have an original FSSK assembled to do a soundtest with (I only have one PCB).

[Meowmaritus]

This looks amazing. Could you upload a video of how it sounds to type on the fully assembled board?

of course. Here are three recordings for comparison:

2022 Metal Plate FSSK:
https://voca.ro/14lwPVqY7il0

1987 Model M:
https://voca.ro/11TVHPzVLSbv

1984 F122:
https://voca.ro/1iW8DDAXuCas

The F122 is pretty loud because the the foam isn't thick enough and the barrels are a little loose. The FSSK is nice and tight. Unfortunately I don't have an original FSSK assembled to do a soundtest with (I only have one PCB).

The metal plate FSSK sounds awesome

[Muirium]

I could be very into this. Will have to check how many XT barrels and flippers I have. I aim to be in CA around new year’s, so if you’re shipping by then all the better.

The parts I have are the complete SSK in original condition, said barrels and flippers, and not much else.

Correction: Xwhatsit controllers are supported? I kept one of those for my (unrealised) Model MF, so I should be good for that part too. No i$ PCB though.

[Muirium]

Just counted my Model F parts: 82 barrels and 84 flippers present and correct. All harvested from an XT as I distantly recall.

[DMA]

Any idea how to make a bottom plate? I don't have an SSK and don't need a case. I have an XT, but it's lower than needed I guess?

[Muirium]

Were you who I gave my XTant to? (Congrats on fixing it and giving it a better controller.) I recall someone made that backplate by a roller press or some such in a metal shop. It wasn’t quite right, I remember, too. Apparently quite a tricky process to do as a one-off.

Ellipse has made many Model F backplates, of course, albeit in China.

[DMA]

Were you who I gave my XTant to?

Yep, that was me. It was my daily driver until I left Facebook - and the next job gave me Windows laptop. And in windows, F-keys are not optional. Turns out, I can't effectively use F-keys on the left.. so it's kinda gathering dust for about a year.

Ellipse's model Fs don't have F-keys too, so they are too low. I have an XT backplate, after all. It's also too low.
..but, I also have an F-122 backplate.. which is larger than needed, so I can just cut out a piece that's large enough..

[Muirium]

..but, I also have an F-122 backplate.. which is larger than needed, so I can just cut out a piece that's large enough..

If you do, DT will want to kill you.

[DMA]

If you do, DT will want to kill you.

I don't mind. But that particular F122 case was split in half by USPS, and the most valuable part of it is key assemblies anyway.
Also, unfortunately, it looks like F122 backplate is not large enough - there will be a hole in the top right corner. I remember I had the unicomp backplate laying around somewhere - but it's quite thin, probably not strong enough for the model F springs..

[photekq]

Very interested, amazing work

[thefarside]

Also interested (I forget if I filled out the interest form).

Any chance this could have an option for AT style barrels? Also curious if this could or would fit the new Mini M.

[taylorswiftttttt]

Xwhatsit controllers are supported?

Any xwhatsit-based controller running any firmware is supported. The only thing that would make a capacitive PCB support one and not the other is if its designed in a way that requires QMK's per-pad calibration to function.

Any idea how to make a bottom plate? I don't have an SSK and don't need a case. I have an XT, but it's lower than needed I guess?

The cheapest way would be to buy an SSK plate from Unicomp, but I don't know if they still have them. You'd need to send them a support ticket and ask. If they don't sell those anymore you could cut a regular M101 backplate. That's what I'm using right now to keep the original SSK internals untouched.

Any chance this could have an option for AT style barrels?

I have a different plate coming in the mail that will test an XT/AT cross-compatible hole design with tighter tolerances. I originally didn't bother with AT barrels because I'm lazy, but now I believe it will make a good addition

Also curious if this could or would fit the new Mini M.

All that needs to change on the plate for Mini M compatibility is to make it narrower on either side.

The PCB is more difficult. There is less space on either side of the Mini M, and the current FSSK PCB may be too wide. I don't see a way to make the left side of the PCB narrower, because that's where all the row traces go vertical. Furthermore, I don't own a Mini M anymore so I can't take direct measurements.

In general, making changes is difficult because:
1. I started a new job so my free time is reduced
2. My workflow creating the plate was bad
3. The lead time on orders from JLCPCB and Ponoko is two weeks, minimum

However, I believe that with time I can deliver a better product than I originally proposed.

[snoopy]

Love the project. Really looking forward to it. Totally in. Hope I can also get a pcb somehow.

Thanks for all your work.

SSK is from the looks my absolute favourite keyboard. and making it a FSSK is a real dream.

[Muirium]

Yes, the pics look epic now. Definitely in for this, though I’m a short a few barrels and flippers and definitely need a PCB. Probably have an Xwhatsit around here somewhere.

What’s the rough timeframe? (I’ll pick mine up in America.)

[Muirium]

Good news: rummaging for unrelated parts, I found 6 more XT barrels and flippers. These are my spares for the Kishsaver and AT; I'd forgotten I had them. So close now!

[snoopy]

And I went through my PMs and found out that I bought a pcb from idollar somewhen in 2016. But no idea where it is

[Muirium]

Sure you don’t mean Lot Lizard? I ordered the whole MF kit from him back then too. He refunded all of us when his daughter died and he needed out of the project.

[snoopy]

no, it was this one and it really shipped viewtopic.php?f=50&t=13042

[Muirium]

Fair enough. I missed that one entirely. 2016 was rough stuff.

[taylorswiftttttt]

Just finished updating the plate. AT support is added, switched some rectangles for slots, and the plate has a smaller footprint on the top and sides. The smaller footprint should help with Mini M support, but that is still unconfirmed.



I have also edited the FEXT PCB file and added a price quote. For a quantity of 5, the price is $7.72 each, and for 10 it is $6.71.
If someone could double check my modification, that would be great. all I did was cut the right side and remove the extra traces.

What’s the rough timeframe? (I’ll pick mine up in America.)

Not sure. Hopefully before the end of the year.

Based on the current responses, we will need 7 PCBs and 4 controllers.

Next step is to get a price quote on the SMD Model F Controllers.

[Muirium]

I asked Pandrew—who knows a hell of a lot more about controllers than I do—for his advice on what controller hardware to use for this project.

Hey,

All Model F controllers should work.

Some advantages / disadvantages:

- The SMD Model F and TH controllers currently only support my QMK firmware. Although there's nothing stopping someone from porting the original xwhatsit firmware too to them, it just doesn't exist at the moment. The other xwhatsit controllers will support both.
- the SMD Model F controllers (and TH), basicly all the pro micro based controllers have the advantage of a newer atmega chip. The most important difference you might see is that atmega32u4 has more RAM. So normally you will not really notice a difference, but if you start enabling QMK features then you might overflow the ram sooner on the atmega32u2 controllers.
- I don't know about how much physical space is available in the SSK, that may be a consideration. The wcass controller is the smallest.
- Not sure about the pin pitch on the fssk pcb, I think it might be 3.96mm, but double check. All xwhatsit controllers except for the wcass one have 3.96mm pitch, but the wcass one has 2.54mm pitch. If you use a controller with different pin pitch it will still work, but you will be forced to use individual wires to solder it in, no ribbon cables.
- Can't say much about DMA's Common Sense, I have not played around much with it. I think the firmware may only be rebuildable with Cypress's proprietary toolchain, which may be limited in what platforms it will run on.
- Do not use xwhatsit controllers designed for beamsprings. Those usually have fewer rows than necessary for Model F.

Definitely check the pin pitch of the i$ PCB and make sure to choose a controller design with matching pitch. Also, check how much space we're dealing with in an SSK / new Model M shell. I think there's plenty, as the OG controllers are pretty huge, but measurements are better than spitballs!

As for the 32u2 vs 32u4 question: I’m typing on the 32u2 Xwhatsit's controller in my Kishsaver just now, and its memory limit has never troubled me with either Xwhatsit's own firmware or Pandrew's QMK. But I don't use VIAL, which is a whole other layer on top. VIA/L support is one argument in favour of going 32u4.

I do like the SMD simplicity of a pre-assembled controller, though. I'd be cool with either route… if I fail to find my supposedly spare Xwhatsit!

[thefarside]

The smaller footprint should help with Mini M support, but that is still unconfirmed.

If you can provide the dimensions I can measure my Mini M and confirm if they’ll work.

[DMA]

Since we're editing PCBs - please add vias between floating pads and the pads under them - one small via, somewhere in top 3mm of the pad.
I guarantee you this will result in way better signal when key is pressed, without affecting the resting state - which, in turn, will virtually guarantee lack of xwhatsit-specific problems with sensing.

[DMA]

which may be limited in what platforms it will run on.

Ah, good old FUD. But two can play this game: CS will run on more platform than QMK due to QMK using clowny USB descriptors.

[Muirium]

To be fair, I posted Pandrew’s PM here, so he maybe didn’t write it with full diplomacy engaged!

So, to address the point: is your firmware rebuildable without Cypress's proprietary toolchain?

[DMA]

So, to address the point: is your firmware rebuildable without Cypress's proprietary toolchain?

Let's address the real point first: why is it relevant? Should we commit to doing this, you'll receive a controller with flashed firmware which you will _never_ need to build, EVER.
That was the whole point, since the very start in 2016.
Forcing people to rebuild when they need to change layout and then find some third-party utility to flash the firmware is cruel and unusual punishment.

[Muirium]

Well, some of us are just sadomasochists then.

I’ve flashed my Xwhatsit’s dozens of times with many different firmwares, let alone keymaps. My AT has run Xwhatsit’s original, Pandrew’s QMK, Arkku’s QMK, and just days ago back to Pandrew’s again. It’s not alone. QMK Toolbox is a great little GUI tool even a GUI using tool like me can breeze.