Beam Spring 104+SSK Reproduction Project! First Batch In Stock, Shipping early next year after New Model F Project

[clickclack]

All the keys seemed to work fine on my round 1 BSSK apart from the odd-feeling spacebar. I opened it up to play and soon needed to refit 4 key modules as the fly plates fell off. I did finally get the knack of refitting the fly plates by watching your setup video. The follow-ups you posted with better explanations of fly plate fitting would have helped a lot!

I'm now playing with PBTFans Dolch keycaps. Will report on further progress when I've got the spacebar done and looked into feet.

IMG_20230411_190623472.jpg (3.24 MiB) Viewed 188024 times

[darkcruix]

All the keys seemed to work fine on my round 1 BSSK apart from the odd-feeling spacebar. I opened it up to play and soon needed to refit 4 key modules as the fly plates fell off. I did finally get the knack of refitting the fly plates by watching your setup video. The follow-ups you posted with better explanations of fly plate fitting would have helped a lot!

I'm now playing with PBTFans Dolch keycaps. Will report on further progress when I've got the spacebar done and looked into feet.
...

I always liked the Dolch colors. Very nice config.
I took the board apart 3 times already and now I know, what I love on Beamspring modules so much - it is so easy to take them apart. Only thing I need to get better with is attaching the fly plate to the beam spring again

[ritter]

Ellipse, how do I order a key cap puller? It's not on the extra's page and trying to order it via the main order page just doesn't work (it claims I have to select some products first).

I've spread my purchase over a number of orders, I hope this isn't too much of a pain? Thanks for your hard work on this project, it's truly awesome.

[Ellipse]

It's also a separate store item under Key Cap Puller. https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product ... ller-tool/

Not to worry about multiple orders as I will combine them for shipping.

[darkcruix]

Just wanted to share that I found out that the Costar stabilizers work perfectly with the larger keys (>= 1.75U) and I have added them to the respective keys with great success. There is no modification required and fit just right in the cutouts of the top switch plate. The top hook of the costar stab set just has to be added to the larger key and the wire added to these hooks.

The Costar set consits of these parts (available e.g. from Amazon):

Spoiler:

IMG_4270.jpeg (1.64 MiB) Viewed 187876 times

The result with stabilizer looks like this:

Spoiler:

IMG_4268.jpeg (2.22 MiB) Viewed 187876 times

A quick video of how this actually looks and sounds:

Anyway, I think the extra stab is a great addition.

[clickclack]

Thanks darkcruix, for your comment about my config.

I've played some more and fitted some feet. My spacebar issues were solved by pulling the spacebar up off the stabiliser stems by 0.5 mm or so allowing the bottom of the spacebar to rest at the same level as the surrounding keys. Next time I open the case I'll consider slipping a couple of washers in to mark the space (if possible). Most of the keys are noticeably twisted a little. Something correctable by nudging the switch bodies, I hope.

Some pics with a bit of rearrangement. F62 for comparison.

Spoiler:

IMG_20230412_192611706.jpg (3.04 MiB) Viewed 187856 times

Spoiler:

IMG_20230412_192550592.jpg (3.8 MiB) Viewed 187856 times

IMG_20230412_192519932.jpg (2.82 MiB) Viewed 187856 times

[daedalus]

Just wanted to share that I found out that the Costar stabilizers work perfectly with the larger keys (>= 1.75U) and I have added them to the respective keys with great success. There is no modification required and fit just right in the cutouts of the top switch plate. The top hook of the costar stab set just has to be added to the larger key and the wire added to these hooks.

Nice discovery - did you try costar stabs with the space bar?

[darkcruix]

...
Nice discovery - did you try costar stabs with the space bar?

As the space bar is already perfectly stabilized, I didn't do anything there, but I don't see any reason, why it shouldn't work in the same way. The cutouts are the same and the length of the standard stab wires are fitting the cutouts also.
I can only say after the second day of heavy use, I am glad I made those changes. Don't get me wrong, the larger keys aren't super wobbly when not stabilized, but when you hit them at the very edge, you can feel that they give in a bit and this gets resolved by the costar stab.

[ritter]

Super discovery darkcruix. I like my keys firm, so this is a good simple way to ensure that.

[szechun]

image_67186689.JPG (1.11 MiB) Viewed 187605 times

I'm wondering if anyone has the same issue as me. Two beam spring round 1 modules has failed in the same way so far in a span of a few weeks. The keys over time get stuck because the fly plate at the bottom gets creased.

[darkcruix]

...
I'm wondering if anyone has the same issue as me. Two beam spring round 1 modules has failed in the same way so far in a span of a few weeks. The keys over time get stuck because the fly plate at the bottom gets creased.

I only have mine since 3 full days, so I can't give any factual feedback on that issue, but I am keeping an eye out. I plan to do a little review after another week or two of using it as my daily driver. So far, it was 100% reliable out of the box and I only added the stabializers.

[Ellipse]

szechun this is one of the QC issues mentioned in the setup video in the manual, and one area of improvement that Round 2 will have. With the mini first aid kits included with each keyboard, I expected that 4 modules would need replacement within the first few weeks and if more are unrepairable then the limited warranty would likely apply and I would send replacement part B's.

The folding is an assembly error that may show itself if a module is not clicking well during the initial testing (if they folded the metal part too much during assembly). Often if the module clicks but clicks weakly, or is too slow to return after being pressed, the part B (the white inner plastic part and its included metal part) may need replacement if it cannot be repaired with the technique in the video. In the setup video in the manual, I showed an example of this exact situation where the metal was accidentally folded and showed how to fix it with tweezers, which works much of the time but not all of the time (other times replacement would be better).

I noticed some creased modules and let the factory know to avoid too much folding, so it will not occur for the Round 2 production (one of the QC advantages of Round 2 is less setup work, as noted earlier). I have not noticed modules developing a crease where there was no crease before.

If anyone runs into this issue the white part may need replacement if it cannot be fixed by tweezers; a fold does not necessarily indicate a part that is more likely to break however. I ordered several thousand extra beam barrel part B's and other parts to be safe. This is one example of the Round 1 boards requiring more setup time in the initial weeks compared to the Round 2 boards, but these issues are usually covered under the limited warranty so no one is left with a nonworking board.

[Ellipse]

So far 83 new beam spring keyboards have shipped, and 5 more will be completed today, bringing the total to 88.

So far I have been installing and optimizing the space bar for each person who ordered a key set. Almost all boards were configured with a key set. Here are my current notes on space bar optimization:

Many of these steps should be unnecessary with the improved Round 2 boards.

Methods to fix/improve beam space bar actuation:
1. Change number of visible rings of the support spring from 5 to 6. A slight increase may be required to make the spacebar actuate reliably.
2. First test the space bar just barely attached to the beam module, but detached from the stabilizer. Press the space bar in the middle, above the beam module. It should easily return to its original position and you should hear the click each time without fail, even if you press it many times in a row. If it does not, need to inspect part B and adjust the bend of the ears (increase or decrease it, and make sure they are symmetrical) and the distance between metal and the beam flipper (increase this distance so the metal part is flat).
3. Replace white part (part B).
4. Adjust metal part for beam flipper ears and the distance from the metal part to the plastic flipper edges
5. Trim area holding the plastic MX stabilizer insert in place, so that the plastic part can lift up freely with the lightest of finger pressure/movement (the side opposite the stabilizer wire). This is mostly needed for the first delivery (the one where I have to replace the springs).
6. Untested: Bend the stabilizer wire away from the module, or trim more away from the module in the area where it may be contacting the wire if it has not been trimmed sufficiently so that the wire is not contacting the module.

[Ellipse]

Here is some more Round 1 beam spring feedback from a geekhack forum member that I wanted to share here.

Everyone please do share your feedback (even if there were little to no issues!), and also please share any mods or tips you have done to improve the beam spring keyboard.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=11 ... msg3160024

And another post is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyb ... up_scotty/

For those who received their Round 1 board, how was your beam spring setup experience?

Got mine today, and the following is written using it.

Unboxing
Love the box. Would love a deskmat with the beam and buckling spring designs.
The coolest part of the packaging by far is the invoice. I won't spoil the surprise other than to say "No one can be told what the Matrix is. You have to see it for yourself."

Testing and assembly
Watched the video. Lesson learned from my Model F assembly.
No major damage during shipping - no washer dropoff, non-clicking keys, etc.
Some variation on weight and sound. Did the "wiggle fix" on the W key.

Key test (connected, using Switch Hitter)
D stuck once, the first time, but after hitting it again it unstuck and did not restick
It's best to put the keycaps on from top to bottom so that you can easily see the keycaps line up and know they are fully inserted
A couple of keys are slightly off-kilter by about 5 degrees. I'll probably go back and address, which might require opening the case. Not a dealbreaker right now.

First impressions
The feel is PHENOMENAL
The sound is actually quite pleasing too
Love the spherical keys. May try out an MT3 keycap set as well.
The space bar (pre-installed) is a little heavy but I'm going to let it sit a couple of days before tuning it.

So far the keyboard has potential. The infinity war for the perfect keyboard might be over; I may have reached the end game. If only there were a 68-key version...

And yes, I'll be ordering a Round 2 version also. After all, you know what they say about guys with big keyboards. That's right: "They're compensating for something." ;D

[Ellipse]

Deskthority and reddit contributor HV_Medic has posted a thorough review of the Round 1 beam spring keyboard. My reply to the feedback is copied below.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyb ... sible_end/

My comments:
Thanks HV_Medic for your well-informed and thorough review. Project coordinator here. Kindly see my replies below:

"Replacing this key [spacebar] is kind of obnoxious because you have to trim a module to accommodate the stabilizer."
I recommend just replacing the white part (beam barrel part B) so you don't have to use a dremel to trim one of the spare modules. I have used various tools to separate the washer from the module including pliers and a hammer (supported by pliers underneath the washer so as not to break the module). The Round 2 modules, recently produced Round 1 modules with updated tooling, and virtually all Round 1 boards shipped from this week onwards use an improved, friction fit washer so no glue or paper clips are required to take apart or reseat a module.

"The beam spring modules are very loud"--> this is correct. The round 2 boards have an improved design to add more foam and a new inner assembly instead of the case acting as the top and bottom plates. In my testing the Round 2 boards are slightly quieter and have less ringing due to the sound absorption.

"The alignment of many of the keys is not perfect, there are noticeable gaps between some of the keys, and some keys are rotated compared to others, it is not a big deal, but aesthetically the keyboard is not perfect." This is correct. I see this with the original IBM beam spring modules too. The problem is a bit more noticeable with the repros in my opinion because of adapting the MX keycaps to the old beam spring design. The gaps between keys are a bit larger due to the width of the beam spring modules compared to the smaller footprint of MX switch modules, so gaps are more visible. I have also noticed rotation on keys for both Model F keyboards and beam spring keyboards because everything has looser tolerances. When the tolerances of the two beam spring plastic parts are too tight, the module is more likely to get stuck (this is another improvement for Round 2 and for the first aid kit modules of Round 1 that were shipped starting in the past week or so - the module tolerances have improved so they are not too tight). A very slight twisting of the keycaps in the opposite rotational direction may make the rotation less obvious, though this would need to be done at your own risk as it could snap the part B.

Regarding stabilizers, I found the stabilizers to negatively affect the performance of the non-spacebar keys so I recommended no stabilizers be installed or used. Some folks do prefer stabilized keys; Deskthority contributor darkcruix has suggested a mod that involves using costar style stabilizers for the other keys requiring stabilization and this seems like a good idea that may be preferable to many folks. The challenge is that the stabilizers are about 1mm lower than they should be for the Round 1 design because of the height of the MX plate being lower than the height of the beam spring plate. The round 2 design adds padding below the modules and above the inner assembly, in effect raising the plane of the plate mounted MX stabilizers, so installing the stabilizers may be less tricky with Round 2.

Regarding USB-C, some common feedback I received was to have the ability for folks to rotate usage among various mechanical keyboards in their collection quickly, by being able to use the same USB-C cable for multiple boards instead of dealing with various cables. I do agree with the suggestion of USB-B though and think it is a sturdy connection that would be good for keyboards since folks can trip over the cord. I will note also that the Round 2 boards, like all the classic style Model F keyboards, have USB cables internally stabilized by a metal P clip for strain relief. The compact style boards of both Model F and beam spring keyboards do not have such strain relief.

Regarding lock light wiring, the Round 2 boards of both the Model F and beam springs have the LEDs powered through traces on the same capacitive PCB, instead of separate wires. In the initial design, the worry was about the LED power signal interfering with the capacitive sensing so the wires were made separate, but this turned out to not be an issue during the Round 2 prototyping with traces.

Regarding modules being relatively fragile compared to Model F components, this is correct for the most part, though I have found F springs quite easy to damage by mistake while cleaning or adjusting them. The original beam spring modules were also relatively fragile. When I ordered two original IBM beam spring keyboards many years back, a number of the modules were damaged and I had to purchase spares from orihalcon to replace the damaged ones.

Glad you like the keycaps. It took over a year of searching to find this manufacturer. Many of the dozens of factories making components for the new Model F and Beam Spring projects do not advertise their products, not even on sites like Alibaba, so it is a matter of doing a lot of research and working with existing suppliers to find these additional potential suppliers. More details on the Model F reproduction journey can be found in the Google NYC Tech Talk embedded in the blog on the project web site. Due to the high MOQ of 1000 sets I won't be offering any additional color schemes besides the two already offered.

Regarding repairing the broken modules, I recommend saving all of the parts except for the broken part B because they can be reused. In my experience most of the Round 1 QC failures are due to improperly assembled part B (white parts) and replacing the part B (with its thin rectangular metal part built in) almost always fixes any issue with the module. For now to keep things simple I only sell completed, tested modules but I have ordered thousands of part B extras in anticipation of these parts breaking in shipping. So far I have shipped nearly 100 beam spring keyboards over the past 5 weeks and I don't think more than a few boards have needed replacement module parts mailed due to more than 4 failing beyond repair. 4 modules were included with each keyboard as part of a free mini first aid kit with the anticipation that up to 4 modules would arrive damaged, either due to assembly/quality control errors from the factory or due to damage sustained in shipping.

HV_Medic please do keep everyone posted on the forums with the results of any mods and experiments you do. I'd imagine the broken part B's can be repaired with super glue but it's probably better in the long run to just replace the part B's.

[BuGless]

the good thing is the inner assembly is separate in Round 2, so you can design a case and put in the inner assembly in the future.

I must have missed the memo earlier; yes, this is the best news "ever". I don't like the Round 2 cases: way too bulky for my taste.
That I can use them without a case might even be better than having a tighter actual case.

[Ellipse]

The factory and I continue to prepare for the updated Round 2 production.

• The cases were just approved for production; the next step is to make the custom case tooling for mass production of the curves of the case, etc.

• I am also reviewing sample parts from the new molds for the two plastic parts A and B. These molds have been difficult to get right.

• The factory has fine tuned the metal part for the beam flipper, to make the radii more rounded like the originals; we have noticed a slight improvement in the snappiness and sound quality with this improvement.

• We are still looking at later this year for delivery.

As I continue doing experimentation, some interesting points:

It seems like adjusting the springs and using springs that are about 1-2mm taller increases the press force about 10-15 grams, so I may offer springs with various free lengths as an aftermarket modification option.

There was some discussion last year about getting the right "exotic" material for the very thin metal part for beam barrel. Thanks to the material analysis posted by the interesting Silo beam switch project that is no longer underway (its goal was to offer significantly miniaturized MX-style switch modules with characteristics matching the beam spring switches), I have been able to find the material, which may have been updated slightly in modern times regarding the presence or absence of some of the trace elements.

It seems like IBM may have used the relatively new S45500 for the original material - aka "Custom 455," trademarked in 1969 and first introduced to commerce in February 1965, right around the time that IBM started development work on the beam spring keyboard. The material is still considered exotic today and not easy to find. Details of the material history: https://trademarks.justia.com/723/26/cu ... 26498.html

This will hopefully be another improvement for the Round 2 keyboards. "It possesses a yield strength which is nearly 3 times the strength of grade 304 stainless steel" according to https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6853 so the Round 2 boards may have a longer potential MTBF, although this is likely to be a distinction without a difference given the metallurgical improvements over the past 50 years far outweighing the imperfections of the available materials IBM had to work with in 1970: maybe the MTBF is sufficiently high for both boards that it would not be the first point of failure, but we'll have to wait years I guess to see the real-world usage. Round 1 boards used a premium variation of the standard SUS 304 stainless steel (there are too many variations of how this material is prepared and cooled after heating so it could be considered many materials under an SUS 304 umbrella).

Chemistry Typical per datasheet, reordered to sync with the Silo presentation below https://d2ykdomew87jzd.cloudfront.net/d ... S45500.pdf
Manganese: 0.50 max
Silicon: 0.50 max
Phosphorus: 0.040 max
Chromium: 11.00-12.50
Nickel: 7.50-9.50
Molybdenum: 0.50 max
Copper: 1.50-2.50
Titanium: 0.080-1.40
Columbium + Tantalum: 0.10-0.50
Carbon: 0.05 max
Sulfur: 0.030 max
Iron: Balance

Beam switch metallurgical analysis as published by the Silo team:

ibm beam spring metal material analysis silo switch 8217f9a515042d2c5889a93ec790bd3d_original.png (21.67 KiB) Viewed 186272 times

[dmaarouf]

Is there a suggested adjustment for 1u keys which are scratchy or difficult to press in the top left and bottom right corners?

[Ellipse]

dmaarouf yes, please see the manual and the video on the project web site. The wiggle method, adjusting the metal flipper ears, and replacing the module are among the steps to consider.

[daedalus]

Following darkcruix's example, I have installed some Costar plate mounted stabilizers on my R1 beamspring keyboard. They were easy to install, and help mitigate the wobble/instability of the 2u+ keys. I also installed it on the spacebar, which does not obviate the need for the separate return spring, but at least makes it easier to replace the keycap without opening the keyboard.

Would strongly recommend using this setup, and I also rescind my earlier suggestions that the stabilizer cutout holes be removed from the R2 keyboards

[bleair]

My round 1 beamspring is now my daily driver. The key feel is by far my favorite part. So very crisp and snappy. I feel this project has achieved something really incredible. It's brought back the beamspring switches and put them onto a modern keyboard layout.


I do have one issue which leads me to ask how I might go about fixing this aspect... If I press both the left shift and right shift and then a key like the number 8 it causes the keyboard to go into a mode where it stops taking input. My assumption is that some part of the software the runs the keyboard controller doesn't like this - or maybe I'm putting the keyboard into some special macro-programming mode or other alternate layer. I'd like to solve this if possible.

[Ellipse]

bleair thanks for your feedback and glad that the keyboard is being put to good use as your daily driver.

I think Left+Right Shift has something to do with QMK so that may have to be disabled in the configuration files but I'm not sure.

[dmaarouf]

dmaarouf yes, please see the manual and the video on the project web site. The wiggle method, adjusting the metal flipper ears, and replacing the module are among the steps to consider.

Thanks, I did try the wiggle method before asking. I had to repeat it more times than I expected to get the keys to feel good

[bleair]

bleair thanks for your feedback and glad that the keyboard is being put to good use as your daily driver.

I think Left+Right Shift has something to do with QMK so that may have to be disabled in the configuration files but I'm not sure.

So, when I got to something like this
https://config.qmk.fm/#/8pack/rev11/LAYOUT
Which keyboard am I choosing for the model 1 beamspring?

I looked on the modelfkeyboard site and I didn't really find any doc regarding qmk, so I appreciate any pointers

[Ellipse]

You'd need to use the special beta web site liked to in the firmware section of the manual. You would pick the beamspring b104/ssk option, and the wcass sub-option. I just updated the manual with this note.

[KJHawkinson]

I'm an F77 and F62 customer and am interested in buying a Round 2 Beam Spring keyboard; either a BSSK or B62.

I notice that there aren't options for a Split Right Shift and/or Split Backspace on the BSSK. Is this something that might be added in the future or by request?

[Ellipse]

Yes, such mods are possible if you cover (or split among all interested) the costs, which may be around $1000+. It would require a custom top inner assembly plate and an additional stamper for the top inner foam cutouts.

Another mod was done to allow a full 5x3 block for the B104/BSSK, but this was less involved as only the top cover needed modification.

[KJHawkinson]

Yes, such mods are possible if you cover (or split among all interested) the costs, which may be around $1000+. It would require a custom top inner assembly plate and an additional stamper for the top inner foam cutouts.

I see. Wasn't sure if it was a hidden option but sounds like it takes a lot of modification.

Another mod was done to allow a full 5x3 block for the B104/BSSK, but this was less involved as only the top cover needed modification.

Is this mod still something that can be requested when ordering? A BSSK with a full 5x3 block would be very handy, and I really enjoy having this on the F77.

On that note; are the custom-made key sets that are orderable with the Beam Spring models uniprofile?

[Ellipse]

Yes as of now; everyone please email me before ordering to confirm the additional cost and whether it is still available.

The beam spring key sets are a custom profile with slightly different heights for each row, as shown in the photos posted some time ago.

[genericusername57]

Yes as of now; everyone please email me before ordering to confirm the additional cost and whether it is still available.

The beam spring key sets are a custom profile with slightly different heights for each row, as shown in the photos posted some time ago.

Is this possible if you've already ordered a R2 BSSK? Roughly how much more cost are we talking about at the moment?