Dell AT102W retrobright help!

[Numaticjoe_1]

Hi everyone,

I bought an old Dell AT102W keyboard about a year ago and have always wanted to retrobright it.
However, I'm quite worried about doing it because the printing on the keys is a bit faded and though it might remove it.
Same goes for the logo on the top left of the keyboard however it's not worn.

Another issue I have is that the switches are pretty bad and I'd like to give the wax mod a try.
I'm pretty sure that the switches are of the later variety as there's not slits where the sliders are.
I heard that putting later sliders in boiling water makes them go soft and melted.

Any help is much appreciated

Thanks
Numaticjoe

[Muirium]

Ah, just give it a shot: the bleaching and the waxboiling. The more you know!

Honestly, those Dells are plentiful and quite affordable even in good condition. I turned down a £30 NIB here a year or two ago, because of shipping. Test out your restoration skills on the one you have, so you’re better prepared when a nicer one comes into your hands.

[Numaticjoe_1]

Thanks for the info!

I tried the spacebar yesterday for a couple hours and it already looks much better.
When the suns out next I'll give the rest a go.
I'll do the waxboil aswell because that sounds like a lot of fun!
Think I paid £60 for this one.

[Muirium]

Yeah, the longer I've been into keyboards, the less cautious I've become. If it's common stuff and it needs improvement: go for it!

Keep an eye on your retrobrighting, though. It's a one-way process. Too little is better than too much.

Waxboil may work wonders for you, as well. Again: too little (temperature) is likely better than too much. You can always try it on a few switches first to determine what you need.

[hellothere]

Remember that the "white" Dell case is really a cream color and the keycaps are cream and dark tan. Don't go for full-on white. It'll be splotchy. There's a good pic in the wiki of pure white caps next to the Dell caps, for comparison.

As an example of how too much temp can be bad for you, I decided to retr0bright a completely banana-yellow spacebar. I live in a desert. 105 degrees (40ish C, 313ish K). Direct sunlight. 20 min. And I think it might be too white.

I also remember something about newer sliders and problems, but I don't remember if that was in reference to complicated Alps or simplified. I do like Mu's spirit, though! Give it a try on a few! How perfect do you need the switches on that function key row to be? (Of course, you could also use this, which is still really good. Use it on the top housing slider rails, too, especially if you're linearizing.)

[XR6]

Another issue I have is that the switches are pretty bad and I'd like to give the wax mod a try.
I'm pretty sure that the switches are of the later variety as there's not slits where the sliders are.
I heard that putting later sliders in boiling water makes them go soft and melted.

Those are later ones, yes. The sliders should be fine to boil, but I'd avoid boiling the housings.
They're made of a different plastic than the earlier ones with slits, so they tend to deform from the heat.

[Numaticjoe_1]

Remember that the "white" Dell case is really a cream color and the keycaps are cream and dark tan. Don't go for full-on white. It'll be splotchy. There's a good pic in the wiki of pure white caps next to the Dell caps, for comparison.

As an example of how too much temp can be bad for you, I decided to retr0bright a completely banana-yellow spacebar. I live in a desert. 105 degrees (40ish C, 313ish K). Direct sunlight. 20 min. And I think it might be too white.

I also remember something about newer sliders and problems, but I don't remember if that was in reference to complicated Alps or simplified. I do like Mu's spirit, though! Give it a try on a few! How perfect do you need the switches on that function key row to be? (Of course, you could also use this, which is still really good. Use it on the top housing slider rails, too, especially if you're linearizing.)

Thanks for the info mate!
I thought at101s were a light grey sort of colour as that's how nib ones have always seemed.
The retrobright has gone well I'm quite happy with it! It's a bit lighter but I'm halfway there with it. I did the case today and a spacebar. I'm in the uk so with hight uv and 20 degrees c it took around 4 ish hours I'd say. I tried soke keycaps in a uv nail lamp and it worked quite well.

[Numaticjoe_1]

Another issue I have is that the switches are pretty bad and I'd like to give the wax mod a try.
I'm pretty sure that the switches are of the later variety as there's not slits where the sliders are.
I heard that putting later sliders in boiling water makes them go soft and melted.

Those are later ones, yes. The sliders should be fine to boil, but I'd avoid boiling the housings.
They're made of a different plastic than the earlier ones with slits, so they tend to deform from the heat.

Thanks!

How much wax do you use to do all 105 keys?
Will update next weekend when I give it a shot and if it goes well I'll have to do a little sound test!
I think I might soak the housing in some soapy water instead of boiling them to clean.
I'd say the switches are in a 5/10 condition as some bind or feel sticky while others feel like new.

[Numaticjoe_1]

Yeah, the longer I've been into keyboards, the less cautious I've become. If it's common stuff and it needs improvement: go for it!

Keep an eye on your retrobrighting, though. It's a one-way process. Too little is better than too much.

Waxboil may work wonders for you, as well. Again: too little (temperature) is likely better than too much. You can always try it on a few switches first to determine what you need.

The retrobright has done it very well! It took about 4 hours to do with some Jerome russle blonde cream and some cling film.
I'm not sure how to upload pictures on here sadly otherwise I'd have done it.

I think I'll wax boil a few a couple degrees below boiling point as a test. Jezzus's videos on the skcm whites has me convinced!

[Muirium]

Can do attitude! And if it goes wrong: you can swap in some tasty authentic Alps as a fallback upgrade.

Taking note of your recommended peroxide. Nice and small and cheap. I find hair products inscrutable when faced with them in store.

[Numaticjoe_1]

Can do attitude! And if it goes wrong: you can swap in some tasty authentic Alps as a fallback upgrade.

Taking note of your recommended peroxide. Nice and small and cheap. I find hair products inscrutable when faced with them in store.

Exactly my spirit!
Tried out some waxboil today on a couple switches think I used far to much for my amount of switches but it's probably easy enough to re do it.
I'd much rather have some blue alps in the board as their my favourite!

As for the peroxide I just went straight to the back of the label, the only thing I understood was 12% hydrogen peroxide lol.

[Muirium]

I've read that a little wax goes a long way, but if you apply too much it will wear off with a little break-in. Your test switches will probably be fine, and if not, then you've got your desired excuse!

[podgen]

I'm in the uk so with hight uv and 20 degrees c it took around 4 ish hours I'd say.

haha, i could never as a scotland resident . I've got an underbed box which I've lined with tinfoil, and i cut a hole in the lid big enough to shine a UV lamp into. funnily enough, the heat the UV lamp generates also heats the box, so it's really a two in one!

majestic contraption pictured below:

Spoiler:

retrobritebox.jpeg (705.21 KiB) Viewed 2825 times

[hellothere]

+1 on the box! I've seen a couple YouTubers use just about the same style.

[podgen]

+1 on the box! I've seen a couple YouTubers use just about the same style.

woah thought i was original

[Numaticjoe_1]

I've read that a little wax goes a long way, but if you apply too much it will wear off with a little break-in. Your test switches will probably be fine, and if not, then you've got your desired excuse!

Finished the reassembly today! They feel really good now.
I'll upload a video later!

[Numaticjoe_1]

I'm in the uk so with hight uv and 20 degrees c it took around 4 ish hours I'd say.

haha, i could never as a scotland resident . I've got an underbed box which I've lined with tinfoil, and i cut a hole in the lid big enough to shine a UV lamp into. funnily enough, the heat the UV lamp generates also heats the box, so it's really a two in one!

majestic contraption pictured below:

Spoiler:

retrobritebox.jpeg

I thought about building one myself as it tends to get it done a lot quicker.
How much did yours cost?

[podgen]

I'm in the uk so with hight uv and 20 degrees c it took around 4 ish hours I'd say.

haha, i could never as a scotland resident . I've got an underbed box which I've lined with tinfoil, and i cut a hole in the lid big enough to shine a UV lamp into. funnily enough, the heat the UV lamp generates also heats the box, so it's really a two in one!

majestic contraption pictured below:

Spoiler:

retrobritebox.jpeg

I thought about building one myself as it tends to get it done a lot quicker.
How much did yours cost?

I can't really remember sorry, but i think it was around £25 for the uv lamp, and the box i used had been lying around for like a decade - the price label on it says £12.99 though. tinfoil expense considered, I'd say maybe budget £40-50