I use trackballs. Since they don't move on the table, I use them wired. I'd rather plug them into the my keyboard than snake another cable across the table.
I also use a Yubikey. It's very convenient to have that plugged into my keyboard where I can get to it easily.
New Model M vs Old IBM Model M
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- Location: Bensalem, PA, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM M
- Main mouse: Logitech Trackman Thumb
- Favorite switch: IBM M buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Me too--I just wire it into the system along with the keyboard since I use a thin client on my desk. But I see what you mean with the Yubikey or anything that usb you would need quick access to.apastuszak wrote: ↑15 Oct 2023, 15:35I use trackballs. Since they don't move on the table, I use them wired. I'd rather plug them into the my keyboard than snake another cable across the table.
I also use a Yubikey. It's very convenient to have that plugged into my keyboard where I can get to it easily.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
My view is that if a keyboard takes USB, it might as well do the courtesy of passing along the favour with an open port.
Back in the bad times when I used wired Apple USB keyboards, those ports were very handy for wired mice and thumb drives. This was back when storing things on the internet involved sending yourself a zipped attachment via email.
Back in the bad times when I used wired Apple USB keyboards, those ports were very handy for wired mice and thumb drives. This was back when storing things on the internet involved sending yourself a zipped attachment via email.
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- Location: Bensalem, PA, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
The ports don’t even need to be built into the keyboard. Look at the mini M. It has a USB A port. If Unicom made something small that snapped into the port, and gave me say three USB-C ports, one to plug into my computer, and the other two to use, as I choose, that solves my problem also.
I use a Matias tactical pro a lot. I really appreciate having a USB port on each side and one in the back. I know it’s a carryover from the days when Apple used ADB ports on the side of their keyboards for their wired mice. But when you have those USB ports in your keyboard, you tend to use them more than you think you would.
I use a Matias tactical pro a lot. I really appreciate having a USB port on each side and one in the back. I know it’s a carryover from the days when Apple used ADB ports on the side of their keyboards for their wired mice. But when you have those USB ports in your keyboard, you tend to use them more than you think you would.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Which is totally wrong for a USB peripheral. Those ports should be on hosts and hubs—they should be inputs—not on the thing you're connecting to. It's like they saw USB C which is the same at both ends, thought "yes, let's do that!", but they ordered the wrong part…
It really should be a USB C port. Second best option would be a USB B, mini or micro port. They all suck, but at least they are correct. They were better off with the classy coiled cable and the SDL socket.
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- Location: Bensalem, PA, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
It should have just been USB-C. I was hoping they’d move to USB-C with the new RPi2040 based controllers. But sadly no.Muirium wrote: ↑16 Oct 2023, 17:03Which is totally wrong for a USB peripheral. Those ports should be on hosts and hubs—they should be inputs—not on the thing you're connecting to. It's like they saw USB C which is the same at both ends, thought "yes, let's do that!", but they ordered the wrong part…
It really should be a USB C port. Second best option would be a USB B, mini or micro port. They all suck, but at least they are correct. They were better off with the classy coiled cable and the SDL socket.
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- Location: Texas
- Main keyboard: Model M 1390120
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: IBM BS/CMX Red/Black/Fujitsu Leaf Spring
To bring this back to new vs old Model Ms, I have 1986-1991 Model Ms (IBM US), including a heavily-used Industrial, with virtually no broken plastic rivets (at all)... and Unicomps made as recently as 2017 with 10+ broken rivets. There's no rhyme or reason.
However, I used to screw mod every used Model M I bought, in a process (and with screws) similar to what ClickyKeyboards does. I don't do that anymore. It's too labor intensive. I just bought a 1989 IBM (US) Model M on eBay; it's in fair shape from what I can see in the photos. I don't plan to mod it at all, except a light cleaning.
The Industrial I mentioned above isn't screw modded. I almost did it, but it only has (maybe) 2 or 3 broken rivets... so, not worth it in my opinion.
I like the Model F Project guy, who says there's a feel and sound difference between modded and unmodded Model Ms. I don't know if I understand what he bases that on, but I think my daily drivers (a 1986 1390120 I use at home and an early 1987 1391401 I use at work) feel super solid with the screw mods I did on them. They feel more solid and steady to type on than any of my unmodded Model Ms. (Including the Industrial.)
However, I used to screw mod every used Model M I bought, in a process (and with screws) similar to what ClickyKeyboards does. I don't do that anymore. It's too labor intensive. I just bought a 1989 IBM (US) Model M on eBay; it's in fair shape from what I can see in the photos. I don't plan to mod it at all, except a light cleaning.
The Industrial I mentioned above isn't screw modded. I almost did it, but it only has (maybe) 2 or 3 broken rivets... so, not worth it in my opinion.
I like the Model F Project guy, who says there's a feel and sound difference between modded and unmodded Model Ms. I don't know if I understand what he bases that on, but I think my daily drivers (a 1986 1390120 I use at home and an early 1987 1391401 I use at work) feel super solid with the screw mods I did on them. They feel more solid and steady to type on than any of my unmodded Model Ms. (Including the Industrial.)
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- Location: Bensalem, PA, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade Trackball
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Another point in favor of a New Model M vs Old Model M. If you get a New Model M with an RPI2040-based controller, you can flash QMK/VIAL on it.
I know with the older models, you can get a Soarer's Converter. But that's an additional cost. QMK/Vial is free, once you get a 5.5mm hex screwdriver to open the thing up.
I know with the older models, you can get a Soarer's Converter. But that's an additional cost. QMK/Vial is free, once you get a 5.5mm hex screwdriver to open the thing up.