Dang that thing is a beaut! Love the rainbow logo on it too. Apple really fell off man they used to make such cool stuff.Valyok wrote: 10 Dec 2025, 04:23 This one’s my daily driver. It’s an Apple Extended Keyboard (AEK).
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Best vintage keyboard without spending life's savings?
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jadontalis
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: POS Razer Ornata v3
- Main mouse: Razer Basilisk Hyperspeed
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Switches
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keycap
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Dell AT101, Model M, DFK777NA
- Main mouse: Logitech M500
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM/SKCL
- DT Pro Member: -
With Alps you're looking at an almost definite restore job, or you're going to be let down. Clones age even more poorly, same can be said for vintage MX clones. You can get lucky and find a real gem of a board that was kept in good condition every now and again though.
Can't go wrong with a Model M.. that is, IF you get lucky and don't have to bolt mod it to get it working. In my experience, this problem isn't as common as it's made out to be, but it's always possible. Model F's are sweet if you can get used to the layout, but the foam will eventually need gutted and replaced (not the most fun thing in the world.)
Vintage Cherry keyboards can be cool but I rarely find those where I'm at. I also know some people hate their build quality, but I've yet to experience one with that problem, personally.
Space Invaders, pretty much the same as Alps, you'll want to find them in good condition. They're at least common here in the US.
Futabas are interesting and I think they get too much hate. Similar to buckling springs in feel, unique sound, just sometimes they're a bit wonky.
Avoid most old foam and foil boards. I've run into some that were pretty nice, but those are few and far between.
Some old dome boards can be great if the thought of it doesn't drive you up a wall..
Just some general, hopefully-not-biased advice for anyone starting at ground zero that I've learned over the years.
Can't go wrong with a Model M.. that is, IF you get lucky and don't have to bolt mod it to get it working. In my experience, this problem isn't as common as it's made out to be, but it's always possible. Model F's are sweet if you can get used to the layout, but the foam will eventually need gutted and replaced (not the most fun thing in the world.)
Vintage Cherry keyboards can be cool but I rarely find those where I'm at. I also know some people hate their build quality, but I've yet to experience one with that problem, personally.
Space Invaders, pretty much the same as Alps, you'll want to find them in good condition. They're at least common here in the US.
Futabas are interesting and I think they get too much hate. Similar to buckling springs in feel, unique sound, just sometimes they're a bit wonky.
Avoid most old foam and foil boards. I've run into some that were pretty nice, but those are few and far between.
Some old dome boards can be great if the thought of it doesn't drive you up a wall..
Just some general, hopefully-not-biased advice for anyone starting at ground zero that I've learned over the years.
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Green Maned Lion
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Unicomp New Model M
- Main mouse: X-keys L-Track
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
The big problem, really, is that you'll realise 104 keys is good, but 122 keys are better!
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przemo
- Location: Poland
- Main keyboard: KB-6521
- Main mouse: Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps
I can get one AEK2 M3501 for about 100EUR in pretty good shape. Are they really so good ? Can I use it simple with normal PC/Vintage PC. I didn't decide it yet, if I will buy it so am looking for some opinion. Isn't the price to high? It comes with original apple mouse. It has polish keys but it is no problem for me. ThxValyok wrote: 10 Dec 2025, 04:23 This one’s my daily driver. It’s an Apple Extended Keyboard (AEK).
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wedgeoflemon
- Location: AU
- Main keyboard: AEK II
- Main mouse: Logitech G305
- Favorite switch: Orange alps
I can't really tell you if AEK2s are good since it depends a lot on whether you like the switches/sound and the look. However, I have a few AEK I/2s and like them. I don't know how much they cost over there normally but 100EUR sounds a little steep for an AEK2 as they are normally quite common.
You can use them on a normal PC but you will need an ADB to USB converter or similar. I use my AEK I/2s on modern PCs and they work fine. I am actually typing this on my PC using an AEK I now.
I've seen people bundling old apple one button mice with AEK keyboards and selling them in one lot to try and get a better price. I've seen lots of vintage apple one button mice on ebay which seemed to stay there with no buyer for ages. My guess is they aren't very popular and this was done deliberately to try to get rid of the mouse.
I'd steer clear of this and try to find an AEK 2 sold on its own. Shiny key caps also mean they are somewhat worn off. Since the keycaps (apart from the space bar) are PBT, they really shouldn't wear till shiny unless the keyboard is very worn. None of mine have keycaps like that.
A few hints on what key switches you get based on the label at the back :
US model - no "S" in a box in the bottom right = salmon alps switches
US model - "S" in a box in the bottom right = cream alps switches (most common)
JP model - mitsumi switches
I'm unsure about EU models as I don't have access to those here though.
Good luck!
You can use them on a normal PC but you will need an ADB to USB converter or similar. I use my AEK I/2s on modern PCs and they work fine. I am actually typing this on my PC using an AEK I now.
I've seen people bundling old apple one button mice with AEK keyboards and selling them in one lot to try and get a better price. I've seen lots of vintage apple one button mice on ebay which seemed to stay there with no buyer for ages. My guess is they aren't very popular and this was done deliberately to try to get rid of the mouse.
I'd steer clear of this and try to find an AEK 2 sold on its own. Shiny key caps also mean they are somewhat worn off. Since the keycaps (apart from the space bar) are PBT, they really shouldn't wear till shiny unless the keyboard is very worn. None of mine have keycaps like that.
A few hints on what key switches you get based on the label at the back :
US model - no "S" in a box in the bottom right = salmon alps switches
US model - "S" in a box in the bottom right = cream alps switches (most common)
JP model - mitsumi switches
I'm unsure about EU models as I don't have access to those here though.
Good luck!