Nixdorf G80-0942H / Retrobrite required!
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
WARNING!
Please don't look at these photos
if you have weak nerves!
I've thought it might have been an FR-layout keyboard which had ben DEified, but nope!
Key labels are completely correct. Please compare with G80-0778 to see another keyboard without an Escape key!
However, these key caps must be from 2 different production runs, or they are from 2 different keyboards with different sun-bathing history!
The shell, space bar and some other key caps look like they never saw the sun in their life!
Most other keys are yellow as hell!
If anybody is experienced with Retrobrighting, please help!
Look at the inside of Y (left) and X (right), they look almost the same and match color with shell and space bar.
Please take a look how different the other sides look in the last picture ....
Please don't look at these photos
if you have weak nerves!
I've thought it might have been an FR-layout keyboard which had ben DEified, but nope!
Key labels are completely correct. Please compare with G80-0778 to see another keyboard without an Escape key!
However, these key caps must be from 2 different production runs, or they are from 2 different keyboards with different sun-bathing history!
The shell, space bar and some other key caps look like they never saw the sun in their life!
Most other keys are yellow as hell!
If anybody is experienced with Retrobrighting, please help!
Look at the inside of Y (left) and X (right), they look almost the same and match color with shell and space bar.
Please take a look how different the other sides look in the last picture ....
- Attachments
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- Nixdorf_G80_068914.jpg (312.74 KiB) Viewed 5713 times
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- Nixdorf_G80_068915.jpg (154.77 KiB) Viewed 5713 times
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- Nixdorf_G80_068924.jpg (151.32 KiB) Viewed 5713 times
Last edited by 7bit on 21 Jun 2012, 16:31, edited 2 times in total.
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- Location: Germany
- DT Pro Member: -
When researching this some while ago I only found out, that there are some brands of "algenvernichter" with the concentrations needed.
No idea which ones...
No idea which ones...
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
You mean ther are algae (hope I got this correct) inside?mintberryminuscrunch wrote:When researching this some while ago I only found out, that there are some brands of "algenvernichter" with the concentrations needed.
No idea which ones...
All what I can see it more likely requires an Crud Puppy Vernichter!
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Old rubberdome
- Main mouse: Logitech Performance MX
- DT Pro Member: -
You're secretly the same person.Ascaii wrote:hmm, how is it we keep ending up with the same boards...I got one off these three weeks ago, just havent had time to post it yet xD
Looking forward to more pics, hopefully of a cleaner board.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
The yellowing so extreme, I've aussumed the yellowed keys are like the NCR sister-board. But I was totally wrong, in fact they are grey and dark grey. Let me know if you do a retrobrite bath, I come with my key caps so they can bath together.Ascaii wrote:nah mine is in "worse" shape...but at least case and all caps are equally yellowed for that vintage look
It seems that the color they used for this yellows easier than what they used for other key caps.
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
Well, get a move on already and try to retrobite it! We need somebody in Germany to figure out how to get all the stuff and what's legal and what's not.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Wern't you from Germany?Icarium wrote:Well, get a move on already and try to retrobite it! We need somebody in Germany to figure out how to get all the stuff and what's legal and what's not.
So maybe you should find out!
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
I also have one of them, evenly yellowed.
I had a try with only Oxy-Clean (or at least the Schlecker brand of this) on the Backspace key. It did get a little bit less yellow, but so little you only see it when you know. So this "retrobrighting light" at least seems not to be a solution in this case.
7bit, yours clearly would be the appropriate candidate for a retrobrighting test, considering that a failure wouldn't make it much worse
I had a try with only Oxy-Clean (or at least the Schlecker brand of this) on the Backspace key. It did get a little bit less yellow, but so little you only see it when you know. So this "retrobrighting light" at least seems not to be a solution in this case.
7bit, yours clearly would be the appropriate candidate for a retrobrighting test, considering that a failure wouldn't make it much worse
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
You measn with all the dirt from more than 20 years?Icarium wrote:Well, now that people have pointed it out I agree, it looks cool the way it is.
I wonder how people can use a keyboard which is that dirty! I don't clean a keyboard in use everuyday, but at least from time to time ...
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I hate yellowing!captain wrote:Clean it, but don't bleach it. Then post pics.
The funny thing is that it is a light grey/grey color-scheme, but the keys adopted themselves (with the help of the sun) to look very similar to the regular color-scheme!
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Cool? It looks horrible.
7bit, retrobrite it!
I wanted to suggest you make a better use of it by selling it in parts
but I think I have an even better idea: let's trade yours for mine and I'll do the selling.
7bit, retrobrite it!
I wanted to suggest you make a better use of it by selling it in parts
but I think I have an even better idea: let's trade yours for mine and I'll do the selling.
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t2682.htmllysol wrote:Looking for:
[...]
Cherry white 10units spacebar.
[...]
http://deskthority.net/photos-videos-f8 ... tml#p27033sixty wrote:I'll buy that "Control" key for 10 Euros if you are ever interested. No interest in the rest
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- Location: indonesia
- Main keyboard: μtron
- Favorite switch: topre 30g
- DT Pro Member: -
I've had worse yellowing...
You can sell it to me with all the dirt and caps :p
I'll clean it up shiny
You can sell it to me with all the dirt and caps :p
I'll clean it up shiny
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I don't trust you!
The keyboard looks very grainy afterwards! This might be because it is a rubberdome, but I'm afraid, mine will also look a bit grainy, afterwards!
But I prefer it to be as sharp as it is now!
The keyboard looks very grainy afterwards! This might be because it is a rubberdome, but I'm afraid, mine will also look a bit grainy, afterwards!
But I prefer it to be as sharp as it is now!
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- Location: Ugly American
- Main keyboard: As Long As It is Helvetica
- Main mouse: Mickey
- Favorite switch: Wanna Switch? Well, I Certainly Did!
- DT Pro Member: -
I've made that same mistake in the dark.
Anyway, I used to have that keyboard.
At the bottom of my keyboard prioritised list.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3131 ... -Keyboards
Oh, and try RipsterBrite! There is a WW Xanthum/Guar shortage so stock up!
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?2971 ... d-Keyboard!
Anyway, I used to have that keyboard.
At the bottom of my keyboard prioritised list.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3131 ... -Keyboards
Oh, and try RipsterBrite! There is a WW Xanthum/Guar shortage so stock up!
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?2971 ... d-Keyboard!
Last edited by ripster on 18 Jun 2012, 18:57, edited 2 times in total.
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- Location: indonesia
- Main keyboard: μtron
- Favorite switch: topre 30g
- DT Pro Member: -
I didn't trust myself either then.7bit wrote:I don't trust you!
The keyboard looks very grainy afterwards! This might be because it is a rubberdome, but I'm afraid, mine will also look a bit grainy, afterwards!
But I prefer it to be as sharp as it is now!
just kidding... I thought you don't like the dirt in it :p
but, frankly, for this project, yeah, I was overzealous I use 50% peroxide without any additives whatsoever, I practically submerged the whole board
Must try lighter concentration next time
In your case, I don't think it needs extensive retrobrite-ing.. nothing a can of compressed air wouldn't cure and a detergent soak won't cure (I hope)
good luck in restoring the keyboard tho'
ouch.. .yeah, I realize that..itlnstln wrote:
Your arrow cluster is, well, a cluster(fuck).
I live half a world away from EU so I thought that's how the cluster supposed to be.. and also too lazy to look up for reference then
And it's hard to find keyboard with german layout here anyway
@ripster: well, considering all the trouble mixing all the ingredients, I'll settle with submersion for now
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- Location: indonesia
- Main keyboard: μtron
- Favorite switch: topre 30g
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm AT the equator... so please give me some slack :p
- off
- Location: the crapper, NL, EU
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah ROIGHT!forcefollow wrote:7bit wrote:I don't trust you!I live half a world away from EU so I thought that's how the cluster supposed to be.. and also too lazy to look up for reference thenitlnstln wrote:Your arrow cluster is, well, a cluster(fuck).
And it's hard to find keyboard with german layout here anyway
Admit it, you were just plain lazy, once they snapped on you couldn't be arsed to pop them back out.
Your board does win the 'most yellowed board I'd ever seen' prize. Did you submerge it in peroxide out in the sun, or indoors/in darkness?
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- Location: indonesia
- Main keyboard: μtron
- Favorite switch: topre 30g
- DT Pro Member: -
Ok, I'm lazy, with capitals...
the case :direct sunlight, in 50% peroxide thus might account for its grainy appearance due to the plastic got eaten.
the numkeys: indoor, with fluorescent light non-stop, 25% concentration
rest of the keys: outdoor, but not in contact with direct sunlight, 25% concentration
all were submerged for 96 hours
have mercy for my laziness.. I admit the pic's an eyesore....
the case :direct sunlight, in 50% peroxide thus might account for its grainy appearance due to the plastic got eaten.
the numkeys: indoor, with fluorescent light non-stop, 25% concentration
rest of the keys: outdoor, but not in contact with direct sunlight, 25% concentration
all were submerged for 96 hours
have mercy for my laziness.. I admit the pic's an eyesore....
- off
- Location: the crapper, NL, EU
- DT Pro Member: -
Ooh, 50% peroxide in the shade got rid of that nasty nasty nasty orange on the main keys?
Man I really have been trying with the wrong stuff then.. I have some slightly yellowed keys (not even worth the term 'yellow' basically, but discolored anywow) that I stuck in quite a few dips of OxyAction and/or dental tabs (with whitening (peroxide) ingredients), but in the end they only lost some of the lasering and pretty much none of the yellowing (which on inspection is the correct term, they are a tad yellow by now).
Man I really have been trying with the wrong stuff then.. I have some slightly yellowed keys (not even worth the term 'yellow' basically, but discolored anywow) that I stuck in quite a few dips of OxyAction and/or dental tabs (with whitening (peroxide) ingredients), but in the end they only lost some of the lasering and pretty much none of the yellowing (which on inspection is the correct term, they are a tad yellow by now).
- Peter
- Location: Denmark
- Main keyboard: Steelseries 6Gv2/G80-1501HAD
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Cherry Linear and Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Please visit this site :
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/
It's SCIENCE !
So, you need to follow the recipe !!
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/
It's SCIENCE !
So, you need to follow the recipe !!
- off
- Location: the crapper, NL, EU
- DT Pro Member: -
That would be the original formula, with not much new info apart from that (not updated in ages last I checked, two months back or so).Peter wrote:Please visit this site :
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/
There has been quite a bit of talk about different methods giving similar results while being a lot easier to get a hold of the ingredients (some only needing one single product, hence my failed attempts with oxyaction and dental tabs; sadly not a lot of sun was applied, might have been the 'cause, doubtful seeing force's result).