G80-1000 LFADE not working

[Half-Saint]

I got a G80-1000 LFADE for parts from Ascaii a year or two ago. It had the cable cut off but everything else seemed alright so I decided to finally fix it. Removed the old cable and soldered the new one. When I plug it in via the Blue Cube, windows detects a new device but typing doesn't produce anything.

Already checked the cable and it's fine. Visual inspection of the PCB doesn't show anything wrong. Ideas?

[fossala]

Silly question buy have you tried rebooting? I normaly don't have to but once I did.

[Half-Saint]

Shouldn't have to reboot when using USB.

[fossala]

I know it is "plug n play" but it did happen once before.

[Half-Saint]

I'll try PS/2. Keep your fingers crossed that I don't fry the mobo or the PS/2 port.

[Half-Saint]

Well, it doesn't work either way. LEDs blink once but nothing else happens.

Perhaps it's the controller? Are those interchangeable? I have two G81-1000 that I can use for parts.

[kint]

no offense but recheck the wiring. check with this pic and also check whether the lines are on the correct pins i.e. with a multimeter. Keep in mind the pic is showing the female plug of the mobo. :
http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?tit ... 0814010509

[Peter]

I'm pretty sure the device windblows detects is the bluecube ..
(It's kinda the whole point of the bluecube, to hide the true identity of the connected peripheral to the OS )

but typing doesn't produce anything

Either the board is defective OR something isn't right with the soldering-job you did ..

[Half-Saint]

no offense but recheck the wiring. check with this pic and also check whether the lines are on the correct pins i.e. with a multimeter. Keep in mind the pic is showing the female plug of the mobo. :
http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?tit ... 0814010509

Color wise I soldered the wires exactly the same as they were on the donor board. Mind you, the donor board was a G81-3000 while this is a G80-1000. Color coding of the wires apears to be the same however I am unable to verify where the wires went on the connector side because the connector was cut off before I got the donor board.

The soldering is good and the donor cable itself is good. I checked this with the multimeter.

These pictures were taken BEFORE I did the soldering:




The 'new' cable was soldered the same as in the 2nd picture (black PCB). I see now that cable in the 1st picture has the black cables swapped?

EDIT: I must be going cross-eyed after staring at those cables for so long. Indeed they are identical.

[kint]

they look identical to me ?
The fat black one usually goes from the board to the cable's shielding, which is why it's deisolated at the isolation /rubber housing entry. Normally both blacks are connected on the PCB shortly after the soldering point. bot therefore pinout at pin 3 (ground) and the PS/2 connectors outer ring.
Cable colours however are a soso. I just loooked at a G80-3000 and it does wire different (white/green/yellow/black/black from top).
My suggestion: Check with another g80-1000 the pins of the PS/2 connector to the places where those go on the PCB and recheck your wiring.

[Half-Saint]

All of my G81 boards have DIN connectors. Are you saying that PCB pins are marked the same as PS/2 connector pinout you showed me?

EDIT: the 3rd board I checked is the same: yellow-white-green-black-black

EDIT #2: just checked the wiring with a multimeter and compared it to another board and they match.

It occured to me that it might be a bad PS/2 adapter but I tested it with another board and it worked. Unfortunately I don't have a spare PS/2 adapter here so can't check.

[kint]

No, I'm saying that the colour of the wires does say nothing.
So - basically you're effed since you can't find out what PS/2 pin went to which PCB soldering point since the original cable of the board was cut. Now I do strongly suspect that an other G80-1000 would give the pinout cable would have to be measured with a multimeter, but obviously either my G80-3000s PCB has different PCB soldering point (very likely, hence the different wire colours) or they changed the wire colour to PS/2 pinout.

[ripster]

Pretty safe to swap clock wires just to see if anything changes. You have little to lose at this point.

Just don't mess up ground and Vcc.

[kint]

...Just don't mess up ground and Vcc.

which are easy to recognize because they have the fat traces on the PCB, whereas clock and data has thin traces - seen from the soldering point on.

[Half-Saint]

No, I'm saying that the colour of the wires does say nothing.

And I'm saying that I checked with a multimeter pin for pin both cables/PCBs and pinouts were exactly the same (ignoring the wiring colors).

Meaning:
- PCB pin 5 goes to pin 1 on the DIN connector on both keyboards
- PCB pin 4 goes to pin 2 on the DIN connector on both keyboards
- etc.

Now unless this particular board has some crazy exception, I'm screwed.

[kint]

okay, maybe I was inarticulate, trying to clarify what I meant:
1. Wire colours do mean nothing
2. Wire colour position on the soldering points of the PCB ("sequence" i.e. from top to bottom ..) do mean nothing
3. You just want to connect the right pin of the PS/2 / DIN / USB connector to the right soldering point of the PCB.
4. Therefore you can't simply take the wire colour order from one board and transplant it to another - this might work (the more the boards are alike the more likely it does), but might as well won't as PCB layouts can differ.

check this pic and try to go from there, as you can see cherry mixed the colour order between 1501 and 3000, also they changed the PCB between the two 3000s:


this even doesn't take into effect that cherry might have swapped green and white wire on the PC connectors side.

white wire is "data" or "clock". thin trace
green wire is "voltage", which is marked "+" on the PCB, (mabye you have to follow the trace a little) and also has a fat trace
yellow wire is "clock" or "data", thin trace on the PCB
blacks are ground/shield - fat trace on the PCB, even a single monster trace as seen on the PS/2 board.

also "pin 1" on the PCB is just counting - doesn't mean anything than "start here".

try swapping clock and data - just make sure that voltage and ground are connected correct, as ripster suggested.
and of course - if you have one - use the PS/2 port on the PC. reboot is necessary because PS/2 ain't plug n play.

[Half-Saint]

How do I know that any wire is correctly connected?

Both black wires are soldered to fat traces. So is the green one.

[Ascaii]

If you like I can send an original g80-1000 cable, just took apart another board for parts.

[kint]

rather send him a pic of the colour order and the respective pcb traces
if any order fits than most likely that one.
well there must be a "+" somewhere along a fat trace, maybe four or five soldering points inwards. But it usually is there. You now have to determine which is the voltage pin on the PS/2 /DIN connector and check every wire for contact with that pin. that way you have the colour you have to connect to the 5V solder point. The remaining two fat traces are ground - easy. Clock and data - trial and error. that's all help I can bring..

[Maarten]

Just check out the PS/2 specification as to what pin is Vcc, clock, data and ground. Measure (with for example a multimeter) what pin goes to what color wire and write it down;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PS/2_connector
(do keep a sharp eye on whether youre looking at male or female schematics)

Follow the traces from the solder pads on the board to the controller and/or measure where they go. Check out the schematics of the controller on ze internetz to find out where the Vcc and Ground should go (those are kinda important). Solder those two wire colors accordingly. If the schematics also show where to put the clock and data line also solder those, if this is unclear try em both ways.

Its not rocket science....

[Half-Saint]

Just finished measuring the wires and swapping the wires. Result after reboot: "NO keyboard detected"

Here's where the wires go (connector side):
grey - connector case
black - GND
green - Vcc
white - data
yellow - clock

Thanks for the help guys. I'm sure we can solve this I'll check the schematics for the controller and see what I can come up with.

EDIT: bad luck, can't find any ZC86956P datasheets...

[Half-Saint]

OK, here's a funny story... just brought up an identical G80-1000LFADE from the basement and it doesn't work either!

BTW, cable is soldered exactly the same way so I must have done it right especially after the unsuccessful data/clock swap.

Could it be that my basement is killing my keyboards?!?!

[Half-Saint]

No more ideas?

[Icarium]

fried blue cube/ps/2 port?

[Half-Saint]

Nah, both work. Using my SSK with the ps/2 port right now and tested another board with the BC and it works as well.

[7bit]

You should take another computer and plug it in. Maybe this is the problem?

Did you test other PS/2 keyboards?
Is it an AT/XT keyboard?

edit: It is the lasered keycaps!

To be serious: What about:

xev | grep keycode &

What does happen when you type?
Do the LEDs light up if you hit Num Lock or so on another keyboard?

[Half-Saint]

OK just hauled up an old Pentium from the basement and plugged it in. Guess what? The keyboard works when plugged directly into the DIN port of the old PC! I think it could be a frakked up adapter. I for the life of me can't find another ps/2 adapter in the house to test out this theory!

[7bit]

OK just hauled up an old Pentium from the basement and plugged it in. Guess what? The keyboard works when plugged directly into the DIN port of the old PC! I think it could be a frakked up adapter. I for the life of me can't find another ps/2 adapter in the house to test out this theory!

Put your current machine into the basement for some time so it will work together with the other stuff from the basement.

[Icarium]

Hm...are DIN boards always ps/2 compatible or is it similar to passive USB adapters?

[7bit]

Hm...are DIN boards always ps/2 compatible or is it similar to passive USB adapters?

DIN and mini DIN are the same, just a smaller size to reduce costs!

The protocol: XT vs. AT (don't ask me which is the new and which the older), but in this case it can't be the protocol, or does the keyboard switch automatically?