Split ergonomic keyboard project

[dorkvader]

I'm updating the list: PM me if you're not on it.

So the titanium case is $900 ? That's too bad: I would really have loved one.

[bpiphany]

I soldered the Teensy socket and a cable to connect the halves. I don't have any good resistors for the IO expander lines at home. So I won't be able to finish everything until later this week. I also started looking at the code, and it is like 60 files or so all in all =P I think I will have to wait for someone else (ic07!) to be in on this before I am able to get anything up and running. I plugged the Teensy into a USB port while in the socket, and nothing blew up at least =D

[damorgue]

I'm updating the list: PM me if you're not on it.

So the titanium case is $900 ? That's too bad: I would really have loved one.

I never said $900. If you are willing to pay that much, I can check again. I forgot the numbers I got but 900 sounds like a lot.

[ic07]

I soldered the Teensy socket and a cable to connect the halves. I don't have any good resistors for the IO expander lines at home. So I won't be able to finish everything until later this week. I also started looking at the code, and it is like 60 files or so all in all =P I think I will have to wait for someone else (ic07!) to be in on this before I am able to get anything up and running. I plugged the Teensy into a USB port while in the socket, and nothing blew up at least =D

Almost ready! I had some time today (finally) :D . No time to test though, or I'll be late for church, but I'll get it up on 'dev' as soon as i can :) .

Edit:
Up on github dev branch. Compiled stuff here. *yawn*. Yay! It seems to work on my breadboard anyway, let me know how it works on the PCB :) .

[litster]

Dorkvader, Lister is on your list, but Litster is not. Please add me! Thanks.

[bpiphany]

Almost ready! I had some time today (finally) :D . No time to test though, or I'll be late for church, but I'll get it up on 'dev' as soon as i can :) .

Edit:
Up on github dev branch. Compiled stuff here. *yawn*. Yay! It seems to work on my breadboard anyway, let me know how it works on the PCB :) .

I'm testing this with a couple of 1k resistors i found at home instead of the intended 2.2k, and most things seem to be working fine. There is one key (SW2:6 or SW2:7, same position) on both sides that doesn't do anything. My guess is that it has simply been overlooked in the firmware. I haven't looked at the code yet.

I haven't added any LEDs yet, but I think they are a bit off as well. I've been checking the voltages at the LED resistor pads and I cant seem to get them to change.

Great work on that ic07, it isn't easy doing this without the actual device at hand. Yours should be on its way across the pond already =D

Edit: Actually the NumLock LED seems to be working just fine. The other two I think I need to remap the other locking keys onto the board somewhere to test out properly...

[dorkvader]

Dorkvader, Lister is on your list, but Litster is not. Please add me! Thanks.

I'm very sorry about that, looks like you got Typo'd again. That must have been before I reread your proper username like 50 times to cement it in my memory properly.

I'll fix it now, and repost the list later.

About the $900, I thought that was the quotes Dox had been getting for his aluminium case, but I could be off.

[Jim66]

I know this is going to sound really trivial... But could you move me from the GH to the DT list?

I don't really spend any time over at GH anymore and I would hate to miss out on an order because I haven't checked the thread/checked my inbox...

I just reaaaalllllyyyy don't want to miss out if (hopefully when) this comes to a group buy.

[dorkvader]

I know this is going to sound really trivial... But could you move me from the GH to the DT list?

I don't really spend any time over at GH anymore and I would hate to miss out on an order because I haven't checked the thread/checked my inbox...

I just reaaaalllllyyyy don't want to miss out if (hopefully when) this comes to a group buy.

No problem. Like always: I'm monitoring both topics and PM's, so if you post or PM, I'll get it.

I'll repost the list here in a sec.

Also, I'm working on consolidating the BOM, so when it comes time, it'll be easy to see how much things are, so you can order on your own. Of course, it'll probably be easier and cheaper to do a "GB style" distribution, so that will likely also be an option.

Interestingly enough, I didn't see any 2.5mm TRRS jacks at mouser.

[ic07]

I'm testing this with a couple of 1k resistors i found at home instead of the intended 2.2k, and most things seem to be working fine. There is one key (SW2:6 or SW2:7, same position) on both sides that doesn't do anything. My guess is that it has simply been overlooked in the firmware. I haven't looked at the code yet.

I haven't added any LEDs yet, but I think they are a bit off as well. I've been checking the voltages at the LED resistor pads and I cant seem to get them to change.

Great work on that ic07, it isn't easy doing this without the actual device at hand. Yours should be on its way across the pond already =D

Edit: Actually the NumLock LED seems to be working just fine. The other two I think I need to remap the other locking keys onto the board somewhere to test out properly...

Just for reference, 1kΩ is smaller than the I2C standard specifies. But if it's working, then hey :) .

SW2:6 and SW2:7 should be shifting to the 2nd layer. They work on my breadboard... hmm... can you try again..?

Yup, numlock also activates the keypad right now, there is no standalone numlock key. And capslock is activated when you press both shift keys at the same time. There is no scroll lock key, unless I've forgotten about hiding it somewhere. You may want to look at the layout file for what's actually going on, since the layout's not documented anywhere else right now.. :) . Dox said he had some modifications to it that he was using, but he hasn't sent them my way yet.

Thanks! :) . This is why I need a prototype I suppose... otherwise I'd be waiting for the cheaper group buy with everyone else... but when it comes, I won't have to bug you guys so much :) lol.

Interestingly enough, I didn't see any 2.5mm TRRS jacks at mouser.

The TRRS jacks should be 3.5mm (like this one from digikey) (to the best of my knowledge; bpiphany can correct me if I'm wrong) (and of course, if there are 2.5mm ones with the same footprint they'd work, I just haven't checked). I couldn't find them at mouser either...

[bpiphany]

I haven't mounted any switches yet, and I only had one universal short circuiting device (tweezers) at hand. I picked up a GY6.35 halogen lamp here now to help me out. And yes, the "non-responsive" keys alter the function of the other keys =) And CapsLock seems to work as well, LEDc is for ScrollLock I presume. ScrollLock isn't even active per default in Ubuntu..

One thing that might be a little bit strange is that the LED lines don't drop quite to 0V when off. Rather something like 0.20V.

I will replace the pull-up resistors when I have the correct ones. I think I have seen datasheets for other chips where they recommend 10k pull-up resistors. Perhaps the value isn't that very sensitive..

This is the 3.5mm jack that fits. I would have a very hard time believing any other brand would be the same footprint =P

And the Molex Mini USB connector as well.

[sordna]

Those PCB's look fantastic!

Look what no one but me have got =D

stack.JPG

split.JPG

[dotancohen]

This feedback is probably too late, but you should consider it anyway. It looks like the current layout will be very hard to type common programming symbols on, such as the [] {} combinations, and -= are not next to each other. Also, using the wide keys for the pinkies is bad because either the finger will have to stretch more to get to the middle, or it will be pressing off-center and torquing the key, requiring more force. This is one of my pet peeves of current keyboard designs, and there is no reason to carry it over here as well.

I suggest lopping off the outer keys, such that QAZ and P;/ are the sides of the keyboard, and putting the keys removed on the inside for the index fingers to get to them. This will greatly reduce the load on the weak pinkies and put it on the strong index fingers. Furthermore, the hand can easily move inwards to hit another key with the index finger, but it is stressful to move it outwards. Just try it: hold your hands in front you as if you were at the keyboard, and move in like you need to hit a key close to your centerline. Now try moving out to hit an imaginary key. Which is easier on the hands to do rapidly?

My experience with drastically tented split keyboards, such as with the Comfort Keyboard System, shows my that such boards really do require armrests. An additional argument for lopping off the keys outside QAZ and P;/ is that they are very difficult to reach when they are below the level of the armrest, and are actually painful to hit as the wrist must be twisted out (the arm cannot move down due to the armrest). This is not noticeable on keyboards that sit flat on the table, but if anyone plans on tenting this keyboard then it will be a real issue.

[mintberryminuscrunch]

...

It's programmable

[maxrunner]

So how's the state on this, regarding prices...

[OrangeJewce]

So how's the state on this, regarding prices...

Best guestimate: $265 before assembly. I base that off of the follwing:

~$200 Aluminum Case (could go as low as $150 I guess?)
~$30 PCBs
~$10 Connectors
~$25 Teensy 2.0

Add cost of switches, caps, and assembly, and I think we're looking at $400 a piece still.

Cheers,

[bisl]

oooooh this seems like it's getting close! Checking this thread on a daily basis is starting to pay off.

So pumped!

[maxrunner]

So how's the state on this, regarding prices...

Best guestimate: $265 before assembly. I base that off of the follwing:

~$200 Aluminum Case (could go as low as $150 I guess?)
~$30 PCBs
~$10 Connectors
~$25 Teensy 2.0

Add cost of switches, caps, and assembly, and I think we're looking at $400 a piece still.

Cheers,

Sounds good. might be interested but i need to take time to actually see the final specs.

[damorgue]

So how's the state on this, regarding prices...

Best guestimate: $265 before assembly. I base that off of the follwing:

~$200 Aluminum Case (could go as low as $150 I guess?)
~$30 PCBs
~$10 Connectors
~$25 Teensy 2.0

Add cost of switches, caps, and assembly, and I think we're looking at $400 a piece still.

Cheers,

Depends on what case you make. Milling the case that was meant for 3D printing will make it quite a bit more than $200 per case.

[justcallmecrash]

If I can get our design team to convert your layer-case into CADs that will work on our corrugated sample cutting table, I will make mine out of corrugated and use Bondo to harden each layer. I made a Poker case that way and it works great!

[Icarium]

I have no idea what corrugated or Bondo is but I demand pictures!

[justcallmecrash]

Corrugated is what normal people know as cardboard. Bondo is a two-part fiberglass that can be brushed onto a surface (the use it to patch cars a lot)

[Icarium]

corrugated sample cutting table... so any table you can cut cardboard on? >:)

[justcallmecrash]

It's robotic. If you've ever seen a CNC table, it's similar, but with an XACTO blade (i kid you not) instead of a rotating tip.

[Icarium]

Take some pictures if you actually to it.

[justcallmecrash]

You know I will! It's going to have a bit of waste. More waste than finished product, actually... luckily, it's just cardboard (which is also recyclable!) so it's cheap as dirt and really easy to work with. I'll probably reinforce each layer separately, then do the whole thing together... it should be about as hard as metal when it's done.

[regack]

If I can get our design team to convert your layer-case into CADs that will work on our corrugated sample cutting table, I will make mine out of corrugated and use Bondo to harden each layer. I made a Poker case that way and it works great!

Take some pictures if you actually to it.

So not to fill the thread with off-topic items, but I wanna see the poker version...

[justcallmecrash]

Ah.. I should have been more specific. I had a Poker CARRYING case made that way. It's open on one of the short ends so I can slide the board in and out (I keep it in the microfoam pouch it came in). It really helps with storage, and when I had a laptop, I put the whole box down in there and could just drop the Poker down into the box when I was packing up. I'll take a shot of it if I get a chance.

[maxrunner]

Can we actually see final prototypes image of this?

regards,

[ic07]

I haven't mounted any switches yet, and I only had one universal short circuiting device (tweezers) at hand. I picked up a GY6.35 halogen lamp here now to help me out. And yes, the "non-responsive" keys alter the function of the other keys =) And CapsLock seems to work as well, LEDc is for ScrollLock I presume. ScrollLock isn't even active per default in Ubuntu..

One thing that might be a little bit strange is that the LED lines don't drop quite to 0V when off. Rather something like 0.20V.

I will replace the pull-up resistors when I have the correct ones. I think I have seen datasheets for other chips where they recommend 10k pull-up resistors. Perhaps the value isn't that very sensitive..

This is the 3.5mm jack that fits. I would have a very hard time believing any other brand would be the same footprint =P

And the Molex Mini USB connector as well.

Hmm.. that is interesting, about the LEDs. Dunno why that might be - the pins should be set as inputs (hi-Z) when they're "off". I'm glad everything's working so far! :)